Rockdawg84
New member
I had it made by a local auto upholstery shop here in town. I took my stock boot and told him I needed a duplicate with the 3 rear shifters. Cost me about $80.
The Official 3rd Gen Dual Case, Dual Locked Thread
- Thread starter Rockdawg84
- Start date
I had it made by a local auto upholstery shop here in town. I took my stock boot and told him I needed a duplicate with the 3 rear shifters. Cost me about $80.
The ball was not missing
So I finally decide to order the MC TacoBox, and they have no idea when they will have them back in stock. I refuse to buy Chinese crap, so hope they get their stuff together sooner, rather than later...
In the mean time, I am having fun seeing what my rig can do with dual lockers and so far I am very impressed.
If anyone wants to part with a MC TacoBox - please DM me.
In the mean time, I am having fun seeing what my rig can do with dual lockers and so far I am very impressed.
If anyone wants to part with a MC TacoBox - please DM me.
snow junky
New member
So I finally decide to order the MC TacoBox, and they have no idea when they will have them back in stock. I refuse to buy Chinese crap, so hope they get their stuff together sooner, rather than later...
In the mean time, I am having fun seeing what my rig can do with dual lockers and so far I am very impressed.
If anyone wants to part with a MC TacoBox - please DM me.
Your going to be waiting a few years if ever from what I have heard.
So be it. My truck is already capable of more than I am willing to try. I just want to tackle the project, so time is not a concern.
a4runner97
New member
Reviving this tread. Currently putting dual cases in my 5spd swapped 97 limited 3.4l.
I'm using a top shift reduction box and rad design triple shifters. I already have the reduction box together and now I'm starting to pull the chain case. Does anyone have instructions on the trail gear kit? The given instructions is missing 35 to 39 and I have some bolts and nuts that don't seem to be getting used.
Anyone have pointers? I've searched and searched looked through so many threads. I'm sure I'll figure it out but I'm hoping there's some more info out there so I don't f it up
I'm using a top shift reduction box and rad design triple shifters. I already have the reduction box together and now I'm starting to pull the chain case. Does anyone have instructions on the trail gear kit? The given instructions is missing 35 to 39 and I have some bolts and nuts that don't seem to be getting used.
Anyone have pointers? I've searched and searched looked through so many threads. I'm sure I'll figure it out but I'm hoping there's some more info out there so I don't f it up
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Dirtco
New member
You can pull up the directions on their website. Just go to the product and there will be a tab to download the directions. The directions are really good at first, then tapper down but there enough info to figure it out.
theesotericone
New member
That's part of the fun of doing duals. Instructions suck and you basically have to figure it out using brain power. Just use common sense and dry fit everything before committing to RTV. It's pretty straight forward.
One piece of info I wish I had for install was using Permatex Right Stuff to seal the coupler to the trans output shaft and crawl box input shaft. [MENTION=135317]rkntoy[/MENTION] gave me that tip after it was installed. lol I used grey RTV. I'm not having any issues with leaks yet but it seems a lot of folks have. Very few folks who've used the RIght Stuff have leak issues. YMMV.
a4runner97
New member
Thanks for the tip! I have aviation gasket maker I'll throw on it won't go anywhere.
a4runner97
New member
Ya I followed up untill it tapered down. I'm more than confident that I can figure it out but more directions would be better haha. She'll been in there soon enough!
a4runner97
New member
****ed up big time. Risked it for the biscuit and didn't get the biscuit.
Fully sealed up the rear tcase after cutting and removing the pin for the rad design. Driver side Doesn't shift all the way foward.... Forks supposed to be ground down as well
Fully sealed up the rear tcase after cutting and removing the pin for the rad design. Driver side Doesn't shift all the way foward.... Forks supposed to be ground down as well
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theesotericone
New member
****ed up big time. Risked it for the biscuit and didn't get the biscuit.
Fully sealed up the rear tcase after cutting and removing the pin for the rad design. Driver side Doesn't shift all the way foward.... Forks supposed to be ground down as well
If you own a dremmel you can fix it without pulling the case apart. Just turn it on it's side and dremmel away. Here's the link to when I did mine. The third photo is what you want the shift rail to look like when you're done.
Keep it up and don't sweat it. You're gonna love lo/lo when it's done.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3021131-post457.html
a4runner97
New member
Honestly I was thinking that I have access to an air die grinder I was going to do that but hesitant. Guess I'll be going that! Haha Thanks for the reassurance!
owyheerat
New member
****ed up big time. Risked it for the biscuit and didn't get the biscuit.
Fully sealed up the rear tcase after cutting and removing the pin for the rad design. Driver side Doesn't shift all the way foward.... Forks supposed to be ground down as well
I did the exact same when installing my 'duals'. I pulled it apart and ground the shift rail tho, I didn't feel comfortable grinding it in the case and getting metal 'dust' inside.
Good luck. And I agree with [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION], you are gonna love lo-lo...
a4runner97
New member
She's in I measured for shafts d these measurements sound right?
Front 34 5/8th inch
Rear 41 1/2 inch
Front 34 5/8th inch
Rear 41 1/2 inch
theesotericone
New member
If that's what you measured flange to flange that's what I'd use.
For reference my numbers where:
Front: 35 3/4"
Rear: 40 1/1"
Congrats on getting it in.
Who are you planning on getting the shafts from?
What are you planning on doing for the crawlbox mount?
a4runner97
New member
I'll measure them up again to make sure.
I'm getting them made at a local driveshsft shop. Coast power terrain.
I have the 4xinnovation heavy duty mount but looks like I'll be making a new cross member or buy the fror one.
Went to play with the shifters. But I won't be there anytime soon haha. Gotta cut the floor and mod a few things it looks like. And cut a new hole for rear tcase access.
theesotericone
New member
I ended up using Marlins mount and the 4xinnovations mount is very similar. You should do what I did. I talked to both Yotamasters and Rock Solid about the FRO collar mount and both advised against using it. The torque from the rear case ends up eventually breaking the collar, usually at the top.
Here's what I did. Super simple and it's been wheeled hard since install. It hasn't moved at all.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3042226-post528.html
a4runner97
New member
That's funny I was thinking of doing the same. But cut up my parts 4runner and use the full cross member.
Do you have pictures of you're floor board? Did you do triple sticks?
theesotericone
New member
Using another cross member would work but it would mean more work IMO. Just weld a couple plates to the existing member, mark and drill 4 holes for the t-case mount bolts and profit.
I did not use triple sticks. I went with twins on the stock case and a single on the crawl box. I also put a 99+ console in my 97 because the 97 ebrake location interfered with the rear twins more then the 99+.
If you read my build thread from post 458 forward it's all pretty well documented.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/242884-theesotericones-trails-bs-thread-31.html
