The "Party mode" tweak! (non JBL)

[rigtec]

Hey Rig, I need to know where you got your wiring diagram from. I have a 2010 that had the non JBL with no nav but then found a 2013 nonJBL with nav HU on the cheap. Perfect fit, except for the pins for the steering controls and microphone are totally different. Needless to say, in order to complete this conversion I will have to figure out which wires to splice.. Thanks!!

I love the conversion btw.. SO much better, thanks for the post!!

Hi Fatoscar,

Thanks for the compliment regarding 'The Party Mode Tweak'; it was very fulfilling to write about, and I'm hoping that others will benefit! To answer your question about the diagrams... I bought the 2011 4Runner wiring data (which covers '10-'13) a couple yrs ago and then two or three weeks ago, I purchased the 2014 (the latest addition available); which should cover the '14-'16 models. The system schematic that you'll need is the Radio circuit. It has three pages of relative components; including the steering wheel (Spiral controls), ...you can just ignore the highlighter marks on them, that was from another job... "see below":



...Should you need a different set of schemes just let me know and I'll do whatever I can to pull them up, Rgds!

 

[rigtec]

Hi Fatoscar,

Hoping that you're making out okay with your recent NON-JBL 'audio (ONLY) sound system' to 'navigational touch-screen' swap! I just realized that I neglected to post a link to one of the technical repair manuals that I'm using for 'Toyota': Car Repair Manuals Online Product - Mitchell 1 DIY These are (without question) among the most complete, most accurate electrical documents that I've seen in a very long time!

PS: Be sure to give us some feedback on how your hu exchange is going... I'm sure someone else here will benefit from all of your efforts, Rgds!

 

[TrkyMfns]

[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION]h I figured you would be a good person to ask this as you have an understanding of the Party Mode configuration. Do you know if party mode will work with an aftermarket system and only drive the tailgate speakers?

I have my front and rear channels amped with new speaker wires run to both the front and rear doors bypassing the stock wiring entirely. I was going to run speaker wire to the hatch (and still might), but would only use the hatch speakers for camping etc. I was considering wiring in a switch, but If I could utilize the party mode button as a switch and run the tailgate speakers off of the head unit, I could save a lot of headaches.

 

[rigtec]

[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION]h I figured you would be a good person to ask this as you have an understanding of the Party Mode configuration. Do you know if party mode will work with an aftermarket system and only drive the tailgate speakers?

Hi TrkyMfns ('tricky muffins'??) :hatsoff:

Yes, as 'Party Mode' IS a function of the 4Runner's speaker system wiring; and really has nothing to do with the head-unit itself, you can keep the party mode in operation when using an aftermarket hu!

I have my front and rear channels amped with new speaker wires run to both the front and rear doors bypassing the stock wiring entirely. I was going to run speaker wire to the hatch (and still might), but would only use the hatch speakers for camping etc. I was considering wiring in a switch, but If I could utilize the party mode button as a switch and run the tailgate speakers off of the head unit, I could save a lot of headaches.

This will be a little tricky because of the speaker mode changes that occur when switching party mode on and off. The 'Tailgate' speakers are 'ON AT ALL TIMES' no matter how you set the PM button. However, the rear speaker wiring configuration does change from an 'In-series' connection with the rear door speakers to a 'Tailgate ONLY' speaker plot!

I'm telling you that things are gonna get weird if you take your rear channel amplifier input signal from the tailgate speakers, because when you're running your audio system with the PM feature turned off, then the tailgate speakers are in-series w/ the rear door speakers and will cut the input signal in half... Unless you do it this way: You can take your rear amp signal from BOTH the rear door & tailgate speakers (getting weird).

Take the NEG (-) part of the signal from the tailgate speaker wire. Then take the POS (+) from the rear door speaker; this will give you a full hu output signal straight from the hu output terminals w/o ever seeing the signal compromised by the series/parallel wiring modes! Better yet... your new hu will likely have L & R, F & R 'RCA Outputs' on the rear panel.

Just use those and screw the PM button all together(!!), you'll be much better off! I'm already sure that this post will create more questions than any answers or solutions to the problem lol! Hit me back with the list of concerns that I've created and I'll try to help, hahaha!

Cheers

 

[tigger]

Question for you Rig. Do you know where the relays are for the party mode? I am thinking about reversing the function of the party mode, where the back doors are on all the time and the tailgate only comes on when I push the button. (aftermarket amp powering system)

 

[rigtec]

Question for you Rig. Do you know where the relays are for the party mode? I am thinking about reversing the function of the party mode, where the back doors are on all the time and the tailgate only comes on when I push the button. (aftermarket amp powering system)

Hi tigger,

Yes, they're in the passenger side kick panel but calls for glovebox removal to access them. But, I know a short cut to accomplish what you're trying to have the system do; it involves installing a party-mode switch 'REVERSING' relay! I'll be around sometime this afternoon so if you are available then, I'd be happy to go over it with you, Rgds!

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

Definitely post it up here! I'd like to do the same thing, and there's no sense in all three of us figuring out the wiring separately! :heh:

 

[TrkyMfns]

I had a long drawn out reply but then I reread what you wrote about simply bypassing PM and using the fader controls and today it makes sense. I think my brain was scrambled from too much install time looking at wires etc lol.

I suppose the next step will be wiring this all up. I'll have to check to see if it is even possible to fit any more 16 AWG through those horrid rear molex connectors.

Thank you for your help. :cheers:

Hi TrkyMfns ('tricky muffins'??) :hatsoff:

Yes, as 'Party Mode' IS a function of the 4Runner's speaker system wiring; and really has nothing to do with the head-unit itself, you can keep the party mode in operation when using an aftermarket hu!



This will be a little tricky because of the speaker mode changes that occur when switching party mode on and off. The 'Tailgate' speakers are 'ON AT ALL TIMES' no matter how you set the PM button. However, the rear speaker wiring configuration does change from an 'In-series' connection with the rear door speakers to a 'Tailgate ONLY' speaker plot!

I'm telling you that things are gonna get weird if you take your rear channel amplifier input signal from the tailgate speakers, because when you're running your audio system with the PM feature turned off, then the tailgate speakers are in-series w/ the rear door speakers and will cut the input signal in half... Unless you do it this way: You can take your rear amp signal from BOTH the rear door & tailgate speakers (getting weird).

Take the NEG (-) part of the signal from the tailgate speaker wire. Then take the POS (+) from the rear door speaker; this will give you a full hu output signal straight from the hu output terminals w/o ever seeing the signal compromised by the series/parallel wiring modes! Better yet... your new hu will likely have L & R, F & R 'RCA Outputs' on the rear panel.

Just use those and screw the PM button all together(!!), you'll be much better off! I'm already sure that this post will create more questions than any answers or solutions to the problem lol! Hit me back with the list of concerns that I've created and I'll try to help, hahaha!

Cheers

 

[tigger]

Hi tigger,

Yes, they're in the passenger side kick panel but calls for glovebox removal to access them. But, I know a short cut to accomplish what you're trying to have the system do; it involves installing a party-mode switch 'REVERSING' relay! I'll be around sometime this afternoon so if you are available then, I'd be happy to go over it with you, Rgds!

I am getting ready to crash for the day. (I work nights) Maybe you can get with [MENTION=118444]flyinhawaiian01[/MENTION] and then he can update me. (or I can make him come down to LV and do it for me :bounce: )

Either way, I look forward to hearing about your idea.

Thanks,
Brian

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

BWWWAAHAHAAHHAAAAA!!!! No way, hose-A!!! I ain't doin' that road trip again any time soon!

:heh::heh::heh:

 

[rigtec]

To those who are interested in having the 'Rear door speakers ON AT ALL TIMES':

You are exactly where I was when I thought to alter the 4Runner's speaker wiring to allow continuous operation of the rear door speakers. As you may have already realized, the stock headunit's sound quality is pretty pathetic when "Party mode" is set to the OFF position; which almost forces you to opt for the PM on feature! But then the problem is that you lose the rear door speakers... "I'm going over this slowly for the benefit of those who may have read the "PM Composition" but either didn't fully understand it, or believed it required more work to execute than the benefits were worth!"

My first approach was to rearrange the speaker wiring at the hu's rear panel and relay terminals in the passenger-side kick panel. I had already drafted a new plot of how the speaker wiring would need to be changed to allow constant operation of the rear door speakers. But when I saw the poor wire access between the many junctions that are buried behind the dash, I decided that there would have to be another way to get it done. I let it go for a couple days and then it hit me... instead of rearranging the speaker wiring, I could just leave it as it is and kill the relay coils, preventing them from operating.

The 'DEFAULT' relay contact position (PM-OFF/RLY COILS DE-ENERGIZED) allows constant operation of the rear door 'AND' tailgate speakers in a series wiring configuration. So they can all be left turned on to work together! But the benefit to all of this is having the ability to activate the headunit's EQ filter without disconnecting any of the truck's tail or door speakers! Disconnecting the speaker selection relays and having the PM button on will also provide a much richer sound quality throughout the entire program signal's dynamic range!

Making the change is very simple: First remove the HU. Now remove the small trim panel that houses the PM button. You're going to cut the White wire at the #1 terminal on the hu... no need for me to rewrite these easy dirctions, just follow these simple steps w/pictures and you'll be done in 20 minutes!: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1730717-post1.html ...you don't need to read the whole composition, just the part instructing how to move and terminate the one white wire. This is the part that By-passes the relay coils and so prevents them from disconnecting the rear door speakers!

HERE'S THE WIRE TO CUT AT THE HU REAR PANEL "See red arrows"

Take a look at these instructions and let me know that you're understanding them,

Cheers!

 

[tigger]

To those who are interested in having the 'Rear door speakers ON AT ALL TIMES':

You are exactly where I was when I thought to alter the 4Runner's speaker wiring to allow continuous operation of the rear door speakers. As you may have already realized, the stock headunit's sound quality is pretty pathetic when "Party mode" is set to the OFF position; which almost forces you to opt for the PM on feature! But then the problem is that you lose the rear door speakers... "I'm going over this slowly for the benefit of those who may have read the "PM Composition" but either didn't fully understand it, or believed it required more work to execute than the benefits were worth!"

My first approach was to rearrange the speaker wiring at the hu's rear panel and relay terminals in the passenger-side kick panel. I had already drafted a new plot of how the speaker wiring would need to be changed to allow constant operation of the rear door speakers. But when I saw the poor wire access between the many junctions that are buried behind the dash, I decided that there would have to be another way to get it done. I let it go for a couple days and then it hit me... instead of rearranging the speaker wiring, I could just leave it as it is and kill the relay coils, preventing them from operating.

The 'DEFAULT' relay contact position (PM-OFF/RLY COILS DE-ENERGIZED) allows constant operation of the rear door 'AND' tailgate speakers in a series wiring configuration. So they can all be left turned on to work together! But the benefit to all of this is having the ability to activate the headunit's EQ filter without disconnecting any of the truck's tail or door speakers! Disconnecting the speaker selection relays and having the PM button on will also provide a much richer sound quality throughout the entire program signal's dynamic range!

Making the change is very simple: First remove the HU. Now remove the small trim panel that houses the PM button. You're going to cut the White wire at the #1 terminal on the hu... no need for me to rewrite these easy dirctions, just follow these simple steps w/pictures and you'll be done in 20 minutes!: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1730717-post1.html ...you don't need to read the whole composition, just the part instructing how to move and terminate the one white wire. This is the part that By-passes the relay coils and so prevents them from disconnecting the rear door speakers!

HERE'S THE WIRE TO CUT AT THE HU REAR PANEL "See red arrows"

Take a look at these instructions and let me know that you're understanding them,

Cheers!

Not sure this accomplishes what I want.
I am looking to actually reverse the speaker function of the PB. Since I have an aftermarket headunit, the EQ part is non-effective for me.

What I would like to do is have the 4 ohm full output going to the rear door speaker when the button is pushed and then split to the 8 ohm load and power the rear door and tailgate speakers. (or even just the tail gate speakers and no rear door speakers)

So for normal daily driving I want full power to the rear door speakers because with the rear cargo cover, I can't hear the tailgate speakers anyway and I think the muddy the should.

Then when I am camping or tailgating or just relaxing, I would like to switch to the hatch speakers for sound.

Does that make sense??? :wow:

 

[rigtec]

"What I would like to do is have the 4 ohm full output going to the rear door speaker when the button is pushed and then split to the 8 ohm load and power the rear door and tailgate speakers. (or even just the tail gate speakers and no rear door speakers)..."

Okay, I gotcha! Then you're gonna have to get behind the glovebox and HU to make the needed changes there! I've already charted out the wires that need to be switched around. The biggest headache is that some wires of interest go directly from the hu to the tailgate and rear door speakers, and others go from the hu to the two relays and then to the tailgate and doors.

It can definitely be done but it was much easier for me to disconnect the ground wire (at the party mode button) to the relay coils, leaving the rear door and tailgate speakers wired together in series. Since I don't need the tailgate speakers; the subs take care of the bass back there, I just 'JUMPED (shorted)' the tailgate speakers at their connection terminals, causing the rear door speakers to operate alone @4ohms... the system is much louder now due to the 4ohm output load and the close proximity of the second row speakers!

The party button still works wrt the EQ filter circuit at the hu; you can hear a big difference when toggling back-n-forth between on and off, but now I don't have to sacrifice HQ sound to activate the rear door speakers! PS: I couldn't hear those tailgate speakers so far back there anyway! I'll locate the wiring charts tomorrow, scan them into my laptop and post them for you to look at, Rgds!

 

[rigtec]

Okay [MENTION=120209]tigger[/MENTION], [MENTION=118444]flyinhawaiian01[/MENTION], and all others interested in maintaining operation of your second row 'Rear door speakers' AT ALL TIMES. Again there are easier ways to keep the backdoor speakers on along with the 'Party mode' function turned on, without going into a serious speaker system rewire. But if you want the Tailgate speakers to behave exactly as the rear door speakers did from the factory; dropping out whenever the party mode is activated, then this is the right way to do it!

A few years ago I wanted to prevent the rear door speakers from dropping out when I had the party mode turned on, so I charted this new scheme out believing that this was the only way to do it; "see if you can follow along". Basically what you're doing is moving the tailgate speaker wires to the rear door speakers and moving the rear door speakers to the tailgate position. The only thing different is that it would be next to impossible to do that out in the open space, from the speaker's location due to aesthetic concerns and wiring integrity/safety issues!

So we'll do that from behind the headunit and in the passenger side kick-panel. The top wiring diagram shows the speaker wires, HU and L & R EQ Relays. I've traced the wires to be swapped with colored markers: Pink, Yellow, Blue and Orange, for my own reference to help distinguish between the really small lines on paper and their difficult to read abbreviated color designations. Down below the diagram I've posted a wire legend to point out just what everything is on the schematic; refer to the lower half below the four pink arrows:

It says: "6 yellow goes to Blu 4 (Rly)..." then, "3 Pink goes to Org 5" then, 4 Blu (Rly) goes to 6 Yel" (HU) yada, yada, yada...

All that's really saying is: Place wire 6 yel (at HU) on 4 blu (on Rly) and move blu 4 (on Rly) back onto 6 yel (to HU) i.e. swap them! Okay, so don't be confused; this chart was never meant to be posted online, but rather for my own reference during the wire changeout! I have the speakers (top of page) labeled to identify their locations in the truck. If you get stuck on something just post the trouble; I'll be checking in here from time to time throughout the day so I'll try to address your concerns as I see them!

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

To accomplish what Brian wants, all 4 speakers will need to be brought to a central location, then a bunch of relays will need to be wired in. Here's what I think would be the simplest way to accomplish what he wants:

Option #1 would play all 4 speakers with the party mode button on, and with the button off, it would short the rear speakers and send all power to just the door speakers. I'm assuming that's exactly how the relays in the pass kick panel (or wherever they are) are wired from the factory. This causes an 8 ohm load at the head unit when all 4 speakers are playing, then a 4 ohm load on the head unit when just the two doors are playing.

Other variations to this could be accomplished too, such as switching the orange wires to short the door speakers, rather than the tailgate speakers, which would create louder audio at the tailgate.

For me, I'd like to switch between the two sets, rather than just switching one set on and off. The wiring for that would be this done via this diagram:

This would require re-wiring the relays to switch between either set, basically making the party mode switch just a standard A/B switch. I like this idea better, as it does not change the audio levels due to an 8 ohm load in the rear with a 4 ohm load on the front speakers, which essentially cuts the audio in half at each of the rear speakers.

Now, all that's needed is to put some toyota color codes and locations of each of the wires in the diagrams above. Basically X wire at point A goes to relay 1, pin 87, and so forth!

So, have I confused everyone all to hell now??? :nerd:

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

LOL!

I guess while I was drawing out my diagram, you were drawing out yours, [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION]!!!

 

[rigtec]

'...Option #1 would play all 4 speakers with the party mode button on, and with the button off, it would short the rear speakers and send all power to just the door speakers.

well... almost!

With PM turned OFF: Both the rear door and tailgate speakers are on; wired together in 'Series' @ 8ohms. When PM is active the (EDIT) tailgate speakers are not shorted, but rather, lose their NEG side signal wire (OPEN CIRCUIT) which then closes (via EQ relay) at the rear door speakers thus completing that circuit and allowing them to operate independently at 4ohms.

"See wiring diagram at the EQ Relay illustration: pictured with relays in N/C position (PM OFF)" If you follow it starting at the HU (RR-) wire #6 YELLOW. Path goes to the tailgate speaker v.c. then through the R-channel EQ relay, then through the rear door speaker v.c. and travels back to the HU (RR+) as completed! My diagram simply shows how to choose which speakers get manipulated by the EQ Relays and make the changes that will cause it to happen! Rgds

 

[tigger]

I guess I could just use the door speakers, remove the hatch speakers and use a boom box for tailgating :croc:

 

[rigtec]

I guess I could just use the door speakers, remove the hatch speakers and use a boom box for tailgating :croc:

Well that's in affect how I have my truck's PM wired; save the "Boom-box"! My tailgates' are disconnected (and jumped) forcing the rear channel amp to load ONLY the rear door speakers; at 4ohms!

 

[xgjnhjun]

I like the "jumpering" option for the tailgate speakers and the added detail..."