the Rescue Runner build thread

[rickashay]

^^ Perfect, thanks! Yet another method..... haha I'm going to have to decide which way I wanna do this!

 

[steezemcqueen]

I think the reason toytec tells you not to, is the preload on the spring will make things too stiff...? Idk its working fine for me, I had no issues installing them, and the ride is nice, no stiffer than my tundra coils, infact if anything I like the ride better because I have more travel and so to me it feels softer and cushier... But I am also running a bumper and winch with armor as well so that might have something to do with it as well. But maybe someone from toytec can chime in and give us a reason as to why not to run them on anything but the lowest setting.

I would really like to go up to the 2nd perch, but i dont have a bumper or winch unfortunately....i do have a custom skid plate built by Haddix. He built it based off of Budbuilt's skidplate. I just put LC 8 wraps on the rear and love the way it rides compared to the OME 890s. Do u think the weight difference between your front with your winch and bumper and my stock bumper would make a difference on ride quality? if i were to go up to the second perch would love to have some more travel!!!

I figured i'd post up about this.

Issac has the Tundra 5100s with 5 clip settings. Nic has the Taco 5100's with 3 clip settings. The 2nd clip on the Tundra's is 0.65 inches of lift and the 2nd clip on the Taco's is 1.25 inches of lift. Big difference.

The Eibach coils should be 3 inches of lift which would be 23 inches from the center of the hub to the fender. I installed the Tundra/Eibach setup on the front of a stock runner and it came out to almost 23.5 inches. Im not sure why Issac is getting an inch less especially with it being on the second clip. I'm thinking his winch is just a solid chunk of lead.

 

[the great him]

I figured i'd post up about this.

Issac has the Tundra 5100s with 5 clip settings. Nic has the Taco 5100's with 3 clip settings. The 2nd clip on the Tundra's is 0.65 inches of lift and the 2nd clip on the Taco's is 1.25 inches of lift. Big difference.

The Eibach coils should be 3 inches of lift which would be 23 inches from the center of the hub to the fender. I installed the Tundra/Eibach setup on the front of a stock runner and it came out to almost 23.5 inches. Im not sure why Issac is getting an inch less especially with it being on the second clip. I'm thinking his winch is just a solid chunk of lead.

well i am being old skool here, and running actual cable, not synthetic rope... that might have something to do with it. idk maybe its the big PIAA lights i have ontop of the bumper, and my dual trans coolers(one more than most people run), and dual trans filters(one more than most people run) and my big yellow safety hook... who knows maybe all that extra stuff added together really does make a difference :noidea:

 

[4RunnerChaos]

You have a nice rig, I see you're army, I know army isn't too keen about national guard but I am proud to say I am taking my ASVAB and going through MEPS next week. Starting basic in August though so I can enjoy my last summer not being government property xD


And btw I love the search n rescue theme!!!! Hilarious those cops got themselves stuck!

 

[the great him]

You have a nice rig, I see you're army, I know army isn't too keen about national guard but I am proud to say I am taking my ASVAB and going through MEPS next week. Starting basic in August though so I can enjoy my last summer not being government property xD


And btw I love the search n rescue theme!!!! Hilarious those cops got themselves stuck!

So where are you going for basic? What MOS are you going for? There is nothing wrong with the guard man, if you ask me its got a lot of advantages that the big army doesn't have, and requires a level of "discipline" that is not found in the big army... How many active guys have two or more jobs that they have to balance? In my opinion big army is for people who can not function on their own, they need to be told what to do, when to do it and how to do it.... It takes a lot of personal independence or independent thinking out of the soldiers. I have always enjoyed my time on active duty but like what the guard offers as well. There are also down falls of the guard, like not enough time for proper training, but some states are damn good and will make some active duty units look ate up. Good luck!

 

[4RunnerChaos]

So where are you going for basic? What MOS are you going for? There is nothing wrong with the guard man, if you ask me its got a lot of advantages that the big army doesn't have, and requires a level of "discipline" that is not found in the big army... How many active guys have two or more jobs that they have to balance? In my opinion big army is for people who can not function on their own, they need to be told what to do, when to do it and how to do it.... It takes a lot of personal independence or independent thinking out of the soldiers. I have always enjoyed my time on active duty but like what the guard offers as well. There are also down falls of the guard, like not enough time for proper training, but some states are damn good and will make some active duty units look ate up. Good luck!

I'm not positive on my MOS yet, and that also contributes to my location for basic. My MOS options are between MP, the army version of HVAC, metal and no metal fabrication specialist (fix the broken crap on the transports) plain old mechanic.
It's nice to see an army veteran respect the guard. I'm really looking foreward to being able to serve and get an education at the same time.
And I'm in Illinois which seems to be pretty good about the training. All the training I get will be the same as if I were active duty enlisted. My 8 weeks of hell followed by another 8-12 weeks AIT. Then back to the real world and fighting the floods snowdrifts tornados riots and other junk.

I'm just so glad I get free schooling as long as I'm in... Was not looking foreward to having debt from getting an education..

 

[the great him]

I'm not positive on my MOS yet, and that also contributes to my location for basic. My MOS options are between MP, the army version of HVAC, metal and no metal fabrication specialist (fix the broken crap on the transports) plain old mechanic.
It's nice to see an army veteran respect the guard. I'm really looking foreward to being able to serve and get an education at the same time.
And I'm in Illinois which seems to be pretty good about the training. All the training I get will be the same as if I were active duty enlisted. My 8 weeks of hell followed by another 8-12 weeks AIT. Then back to the real world and fighting the floods snowdrifts tornados riots and other junk.

I'm just so glad I get free schooling as long as I'm in... Was not looking foreward to having debt from getting an education..

While technically I am active duty I am still a guard soldier, and that's how I started. I'm an 11b and am doing military funeral honors. I have another deployment coming up so who know what will happen after that. -dont be an MP, those guys are chicken suckers! The guard has a lot of good programs for guys to tap into or take advantage of like student loan re-payments, and tuition assistance ect. Just make sure you look into everything and read all the print.... And start an "I love me" folder, where you keep everything paper wise that pertains to you... Everything from your enlistment contract to your initial counseling statements, to certificates, to hand receipts... The army will lose that shit, and without proof(the documents you will have in your little I love me folder) your gonna get screwed. Also that I love me folder will end up being more like an entire drawer in a file cabinet so be prepared and stay organized. Deploy at least once that way if you hate it then you truly have the right to knock it and bash it...

 

[the great him]

and the hits just keep coming...

so for those of you who have seen my other post about freshening up the front end... i have some front end work to do. my runner is a little lose up front, kinda sketchy to drive, as it wanders and gets jittery over bumps and the like in the road. and lets not forget les schwabs over extending both my 5100s....

well today i took it into another schwabs (only because they give free inspections) and they told me they wouldnt even work on it -this after only two months ago doing the alignment and "adjusting" my struts... but they did show me my LBJs are both bad, i have about 1/8" of play in them, my steering rack is shot -i knew that and ordered a new rack from safari ltd last week, and have a new set of poly bushings for the rack.... so im thinking im basically gonna just go ahead and replace everything up front, do the new 5100s(under warranty) and then replace everything else except for the UCAs(gonna get a set of LR ones this winter).

PN;
43330k lbj rh -tacoma
43340a lbj lh -tacoma
45046 tie rod rh -tacoma
45047 tie rod lh tacoma
48654e lca bushing rh x2
48654f lca bushing lh x2
48409b alignment cam lca x4
48452a cam nut/backing plate x4
90080-11283(?) cam through bolt x2

and then i have managed to warp my tundra rotors so i upgraded to a set of EBC sport slotted and dimpled rotors... all said and told i will have put in over $1000 into the front end of this truck in less than a month... oh well its the price we pay to play right?

-i know i know slotted, drilled and the likes rotors dont improve performance but they have been proven to help improve braking response in wet weather and after water crossings, or puddles... thats the primary reason i chose to go with them

 

[Dous]

Sounds like an all too familiar experience!

The new rack will make worlds of difference alone

 

[the great him]

Sounds like an all too familiar experience!

The new rack will make worlds of difference alone

when you did this did you go with tacoma LBJs, or the 4runner ones? i am thinking about going with the tacoma ones just cause they are beefier, and that i have already replaced my LBJs a couple years ago when the first big scare came around with the failures... now less than 50k miles later im needing new ones -and yes i used Toyota OE LBJs. i have heard that they steer stops are more pronounced meaning you get a larger turning radius, but that might help not blowing CVs when out wheeling if i cant turn as sharp... idk

 

[Dous]

when you did this did you go with tacoma LBJs, or the 4runner ones? i am thinking about going with the tacoma ones just cause they are beefier, and that i have already replaced my LBJs a couple years ago when the first big scare came around with the failures... now less than 50k miles later im needing new ones -and yes i used Toyota OE LBJs. i have heard that they steer stops are more pronounced meaning you get a larger turning radius, but that might help not blowing CVs when out wheeling if i cant turn as sharp... idk

My most recent front end build had me going FROM Taco LBJ's back to the 4runner ones. I lost quite a bit of turning radius which sucked on the trail and around town.

Just cruising down tight trails it's nice to be able to turn as sharp as possible. Going up an obstacle you just have to discipline yourself pretty much.

The Tacoma ball joint is the same exact size, the only difference is a larger tie rod, but the 4runners tie rod is plenty beefy. I have never seen one get bent out on he trail. Unlike the 120 platform where they bend pretty frequently.

 

[the great him]

[MENTION=51127]Dous[/MENTION] well then, I guess that settles it, ill stick with the 4runner stuff as most of my wheeling is in the woods and on tighter trials... Thanks for your input.

 

[smkd13]

Hmmm what your doing sounds super familiar to want I recently did. Only I just did the LCAs, bushings, cleaned up/anti-seized the cams, put LR UCAs, LBJs/OTREs. I don't need to do my rack yet though. Bushing are definitely probably needed. Gonna check play here this weekend.

Btw here is a good picture to show difference. Sorry they are opposite sides but you can see the difference. The taco LBJs tie rod hold is is closer to the wheel and the stop is definitely more pronounced. The geometry change is of the otre hole will make it so it won't move the tire as far.

 

[drdolittlerwc]

Thanks for all the pics, especially the frame end rail mod for the bumper. I can't wait to get mine goin.

Were you thinking of welding the bumper on? If not, why?

Also, did you have to take the bumper off to install your winch? I have a winch ready to go and was wondering if it would be easier to install before or after...

Thanks

 

[the great him]

install the winch in the bumper, then install the bumper on the truck. it would be almost impossible to mount the winch with the bumper on the truck. with that being said, it mount the bumper up first, test fitting it, and everything without the winch, just cause its a lot less weight and easier to move around... you will get a good idea of how it all goes together that way, so when it comes time to put it on with the winch in it, you know what you are doing and you dont have to fight all the weight while trying to "learn"...

DO NOT weld the bumper to the truck... i have had several people ask me if i welded and why didnt i ect... welding on a bumper is always a bad idea in my mind. -what happens when you hit a dear, or another car(or a tree jump out into the road and hits you)? you cant replace that bumper, its welded on you have to cut things up now... what happens if your winch fails or you have to access your external tranny cooler, or if you dont have one, you decide one day that you want to install one? or if you need to get to your AC condenser? your screwed cause your bumper is welded on and perminantly attached, there is no getting it off with out damaging the mounting brackets or the frame. if you use all the bolts that are supposed to mount the bumper, the 4 on the bottom, the two through the sides, and the two through the top to bottom with the collar, then you will be fine. -i at first only used the bottom 4 bolts and the bumper was a bit nose heavy with a winch, especially with 125' of steel cable on it. so when i capped the frame rails i went back and but in the other 4 bolts and that really stiffened things up and i have sense done several good pulls with my winch. there is no more downward deflection and no more vibration issues like before with only the bottom 4 bolts. use all the mounting bolts. -oh yeah i also drilled and tapped my front frame caps i made. -i used 3/8" steel for my frame rail end caps so i just tapped them and ran a bolt in those as well. so now i have 5 bolts per side holding my bumper to the frame, on strait in going down the length of the frame, one going top to bottom clear through the frame, one going side to side, clear through the frame and two on the bottom, going up into the factory tow hook mounts.

now i have tack welded two of my bolts(on on either side) that hold the mounting brackets to the frame rails, and i have tacked the bumper to the mounting brackets... but its only a tack weld and i have only done this to fight and deter thieves -i had a warn 9.5ti stolen off of one of my trucks in my driveway behind a locked gate and under the car port... that was a hard blow and i dont want to risk losing another winch to some douche bag who thinks my yard is his goodwill...

 

[the great him]

so today i got the second of my packages for the front end rebuild... this one contained the only item i splurged on... i got me a new set of EBC rotors, slotted and dimpled(i wanted drilled, but didnt look close enough and i dont think EBC makes a slotted and drilled rotor in the same rotor anyways). i know i know, this topic has been beaten to death hundreds of times before on various forums. and i will admit i have been a na sayer of the drilled and slotted cause yes it takes away material from the rotor surface thus reducing the rotors ability to disperse heat, -less material to absorb the heat, the less heat the rotor can hold, meaning the less effective the rotor is. friction is heat, frictions is what stops the car, too much heat though and you lose the power to stop the vehicle... ok i digress.



i have already warped my stock tundra rotors, so i decided to give these a shot, im gonna get some EBC pads soon as well, these pads i have now i have only had sense dec and im over half way through them, not impressed at all. im hoping the EBCs will last longer and run cooler, i also wanted them for wet conditions and 4wheeling and water crossings. i have been known to hit standing water on the fwy at 60+mph for fun and to spray water over the walls or cars around me(childish i know but its fun and funny) but i have noticed that my braking after wards is not what id like. so we shall see if these help at all.

now while i dont have any lab or place to do scientific experiments or tests, i will let you all know how these work compared to the stock blank rotors.

also im gonna be selling my rotors onces i get them back from being turned if any one is interested, not gonna ship them though, so its a local offer to the local guys, im thinking $60 for the pair. let me know

 

[Dous]

If nothing else the slotted/drilled rotors look cool! :biggrin1:

 

[the great him]

If nothing else the slotted/drilled rotors look cool! :biggrin1:

just like my mullet and my 1988 IROC camaro

 

[drdolittlerwc]

DO NOT weld the bumper to the truck... welding on a bumper is always a bad idea in my mind. -what happens when you hit a dear, or another car(or a tree jump out into the road and hits you)?

now i have tack welded two of my bolts(on on either side) that hold the mounting brackets to the frame rails, and i have tacked the bumper to the mounting brackets... but its only a tack weld and i have only done this to fight and deter thieves -i had a warn 9.5ti stolen off of one of my trucks in my driveway behind a locked gate and under the car port... that was a hard blow and i dont want to risk losing another winch to some douche bag who thinks my yard is his goodwill...

LOL ... Now THAT is useful info!!

Clearly a strong argument against welding! I'll be sure to watch out for TREES!! :wacko:

 

[white_n_slow]

i have been known to hit standing water on the fwy at 60+mph for fun and to spray water over the walls or cars around me(childish i know but its fun and funny)

Don't make me open a bottle of haterade.