The Smokey Build
- Thread starter Rockdawg84
- Start date
Rockdawg84
New member
thanks, yea I've has a .5" sitting on the bench for a couple of months. Like many other parts waiting to get installed.
4Running Daily
New member
Any plans for the F150 tank swap?
We could do it together :thumb3:
We could do it together :thumb3:
Rockdawg84
New member
Ford tank swap is on the list but way down on the list. LOL dual cases and ebrake have to come first. :thumb3: but we could plan a work day at my house and you do a tank swap and I will do ebrake.
Rockdawg84
New member
Over the last weekend got to go out and do a little wheeling but when I came home my clutch pedal was to the floor. checked the master cylinder and it was pretty much dry. So I filled it and came home to log on to Rockauto and ordered a new Clutch Master Cylinder and slave cylinder both ASIN. Showed up yesterday and so this afternoon I began to do the change out.
As I looked at the pedal assembly I realized that it is only held in by the two studs that the MC bolts to and a single bolt in the top. So I decided that since I already had the MC out I would pull the pedal and check it. I have been having a problem where the pedal won't fully return as I release it. I have read that there is a bushing that wares out and sure enough the bushing was missing and the pedal arm was wearing through by the spring.
So I sat down with this
while logged into ToyotaofDallas.com to order some replacement parts. 200K+ miles plus on the original pedal I figured a new one would outlast the rest of the truck.
$95 later I have a new pedal and all the bushings to bring the clutch pedal back to new, even a new spring.
till the parts come I am stuck with this on my kitchen and my truck in the driveway.
As I looked at the pedal assembly I realized that it is only held in by the two studs that the MC bolts to and a single bolt in the top. So I decided that since I already had the MC out I would pull the pedal and check it. I have been having a problem where the pedal won't fully return as I release it. I have read that there is a bushing that wares out and sure enough the bushing was missing and the pedal arm was wearing through by the spring.
So I sat down with this
while logged into ToyotaofDallas.com to order some replacement parts. 200K+ miles plus on the original pedal I figured a new one would outlast the rest of the truck.
$95 later I have a new pedal and all the bushings to bring the clutch pedal back to new, even a new spring.
till the parts come I am stuck with this on my kitchen and my truck in the driveway.
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4Running Daily
New member
Not to rain on your parade, but you could have saved yourself some time and money by just buying a brake pedal return spring and removing the spring all together.
FIXED!! Stupid PLASTIC clutch pedal bushing - YotaTech Forums
FIXED!! Stupid PLASTIC clutch pedal bushing - YotaTech Forums
Rockdawg84
New member
No worries:decision: I have seen that but wanted to take it back to stock. Should outlast the runner unless I take after [MENTION=56044]downpour11[/MENTION] and break a half a million miles on my Runner. LOL
downpour11
New member
Hey I just hit 430k... I still got a ways to go. :thumb3:
Rockdawg84
New member
So I got the clutch pedal assembly all back together with all new bushings and cleaned up with new grease as well as a new return spring. New Clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. I also fixed the front left bolt on my drivers seat that had pulled through the sheet metal.
All done and it is like driving a new runner. I don't know how long but the clutch has been dragging and slipping and now grabs solid and my butt dyno is registering even more horse power. I could have done the other spring mod but I am glad I didn't as it now is lubed and really working as it should. So nice.
:trophy::trophy:
All done and it is like driving a new runner. I don't know how long but the clutch has been dragging and slipping and now grabs solid and my butt dyno is registering even more horse power. I could have done the other spring mod but I am glad I didn't as it now is lubed and really working as it should. So nice.
:trophy::trophy:
TheArkMaster
New member
Glad to see everything working out well! Thanks for the brakeline by the way! Got her installed yesterday. Worked perfectly!
Rockdawg84
New member
Glad it could go to good use:biggrin2:
Rockdawg84
New member
So I have about 42k on my engine rebuild and also on my supercharger rebuild. I have been running a URD 2.2 pulley until about 10k ago at which point I went to a 2.0 pulley and have been getting about 12psi at full boost. It is super fun.
yesterday I went to start the truck and it clunked and sputtered and then started and finally steamed like Thomas the Tank Engine. Yep headgasket. So now we know that even a great rebuild with quality parts and new headbolts is not enough to stand up to 12 psi. Nothing seems to be hurt in the motor just a breached water jacket. So the heads will come off and new better headgaskets will be installed and ARP head studs used and hopefully that will get me better than 40k in the future.
big boost cost and I am paying the price, Smokey will be down for a while.:faint:
yesterday I went to start the truck and it clunked and sputtered and then started and finally steamed like Thomas the Tank Engine. Yep headgasket. So now we know that even a great rebuild with quality parts and new headbolts is not enough to stand up to 12 psi. Nothing seems to be hurt in the motor just a breached water jacket. So the heads will come off and new better headgaskets will be installed and ARP head studs used and hopefully that will get me better than 40k in the future.
big boost cost and I am paying the price, Smokey will be down for a while.:faint:
KidVermicious
New member
Quit screwing around and get the 5.0 going.
Rockdawg84
New member
WOW. I didn't realize that I hadn't updated after the head gasket sadness.
So Update:
pulled the heads and found that my engine builder, who is also my machinist had somehow installed graphite head gaskets instead of the MLM gaskets. I was unhappy to say the least. But fortunately he owned up to it and made it right. Heads gone through and new cometic MLM head gaskets as well as a set of ARP head studs should keep things good to go for a long time to come. Running great and love hitting 12 psi. hehe.
So Update:
pulled the heads and found that my engine builder, who is also my machinist had somehow installed graphite head gaskets instead of the MLM gaskets. I was unhappy to say the least. But fortunately he owned up to it and made it right. Heads gone through and new cometic MLM head gaskets as well as a set of ARP head studs should keep things good to go for a long time to come. Running great and love hitting 12 psi. hehe.
Rockdawg84
New member
now for a current update. As you know my suspension is used kings at each corner. The fronts are tundra coilovers with 550 springs and a lot of preload. The rears are 8.5 wraps with FJ cruiser King remote resi. Well on a wheeling trip a while back I had a strap break and I beat one of the remote resi's to death (literally). The truck finally became almost undriveable for anyone but me. So it was time to get things back in order. I put the runner on jackstands and took all 4 corners to ADS racing shocks here in town to have them rebuilt and revalved as they all came off of trucks heavier than our 3rd gens.
Unfortunately my rear upper control arm mount so beat the remote resi that it couldn't be rebuilt. So I had ADS swap out both for their remote resi's which happen to be 2.5" instead of 2" like the kings.
As I hate messing with the stock placement of the shocks and because I don't want to repeat destroying a resi. I decided to outboard the shocks. I didn't want to buy the "Barnes" mounts so I went down to Ballistic Fab and was able to put some tabs together that would work as a mount. Got it all together and man I loved them before but now they are AWESOME!!! The valving that Brian Turner at ADS put in them is so perfect.
Here are some pics.
The mount tacked up and ready to go on to the outside of the frame
Welded on and then I had to figure out how to mount the remote resi's. Here is what I came up with for now. Just used some 2.5" exhaust clamps and welded them to the top of the mount. Not Bling but keeps them out of the way and the tire doesn't rub so good to go.
Got them right about the middle of the stroke with about 3" of compression and 5" of droop.
with the softer valving I decided that I needed to put the rear swaybar back on and so with a new set of 95 rear links it drives stable and true. So happy:car:
Unfortunately my rear upper control arm mount so beat the remote resi that it couldn't be rebuilt. So I had ADS swap out both for their remote resi's which happen to be 2.5" instead of 2" like the kings.
As I hate messing with the stock placement of the shocks and because I don't want to repeat destroying a resi. I decided to outboard the shocks. I didn't want to buy the "Barnes" mounts so I went down to Ballistic Fab and was able to put some tabs together that would work as a mount. Got it all together and man I loved them before but now they are AWESOME!!! The valving that Brian Turner at ADS put in them is so perfect.
Here are some pics.
The mount tacked up and ready to go on to the outside of the frame
Welded on and then I had to figure out how to mount the remote resi's. Here is what I came up with for now. Just used some 2.5" exhaust clamps and welded them to the top of the mount. Not Bling but keeps them out of the way and the tire doesn't rub so good to go.
Got them right about the middle of the stroke with about 3" of compression and 5" of droop.
with the softer valving I decided that I needed to put the rear swaybar back on and so with a new set of 95 rear links it drives stable and true. So happy:car:
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4Running Daily
New member
Brian is a good dude! Everything looks sweet!
Rockdawg84
New member
Yes he is!!
BTW I was sorry to see your clutch troubles. I had my 17 year old brother here all summer and now need a new clutch as well. I was surprised to hear that your marlin clutch died so quick. I have run them for years with great results though that was behind 22r's. LOL I can tell you to stay away from E-Clutchmasters they are a joke. I may go to LC to get my next one.
shootmymime
New member
So have you done any tuning? Man I can't for the lift of me why my truck has problems at 2-2500 rpm. It hesitates like miss fire and goes like a n/a motor, Then above 2500 2 stroke power band hits and this rocket ship takes off at 8 psi and 12.5 afr.
But while its in the low rpm range my timing is all over the place from 18-13 deg advanced. I think it should stay around 20 deg the entire time correct?
Sam figure out the best way to tune and let me know with the 7th. Also I know quite a bit about running he r4 program but just not how and where I should tune or make adjustments.
Rockdawg84
New member
Wow congratulations that is a real nice find! You definitely deserve it. I like to think that God really tests the ones he loves the most... and you my friend must be loved. Do you plan on swapping the engine with your old one??
Thank you it has been a fun and crazy journey but yes God has been there every step of the way
That is crazy. I am still running the original tune from URD. I need to get into it and learn the tuning tricks because even now with a 2.0 pulley I am still running pig rich. I think one of the struggles it that the Toyota ECU is sooo Adaptive that it ends up fighting the 7th injector always trying to make adjustments. If I can't get it leaned out I may pull the 7th injector and go to a water/meth system. My friend has a snow system and it is being way easier to tune. though he has to buy meth and mix it but it isn't that hard or expensive.
Rockdawg84
New member
So you may remember that I have complained about my MTR's that I couldn't get them to balance. Well it turns out that after chasing the balance problem and even checking all of my suspension pieces I could not find any reason other than the tires. Well, it wasn't the tires. A friend was following me the other day and told me he thought I had a bent wheel on the passengers rear. I was pretty sure that I didn't have a bent wheel so I put the truck on jack stands and got the rear end turning and it turns out that I have a bent rear axle. I was amazed at how many 3rd gens this has happened to so I decided that it needs to be fixed correctly. And so with a call to
I had the fix on the way quickly. I have the best wife in the world. She said make sure to fix it right so we don't have this happen again. These should do the trick.
My plan is to run the brackets on the opposite side and then weld on my caliper brackets so I can run my Mustang calipers and Montero hats. I will also work to get my e-brake hooked up in the process. I look forward to driving my Runner smoothly down the road again.
I had the fix on the way quickly. I have the best wife in the world. She said make sure to fix it right so we don't have this happen again. These should do the trick.
My plan is to run the brackets on the opposite side and then weld on my caliper brackets so I can run my Mustang calipers and Montero hats. I will also work to get my e-brake hooked up in the process. I look forward to driving my Runner smoothly down the road again.
