this is not a rub my knife can fix

[3wbdriver]

:toilet3::toilet3::toilet3:

adjusted my front 5100s up to 2.5 today to match the 2" all pro springs in back

put my spidertrax back on....

265/70 17 falken rocky mountains on 17x8 atx mojave..

check out the spot the shoulder edge of the tire is rubbing.. uh.. that's part of the frame.. :gun4::gun4:

tomorrow i'm exchanging the falken for 285/70 duratracs.. imagine that

anything i can do short of taking the spacers out?

will taking out the spacers stop the rub on the frame??

i like the wide stance.. will the 285s help the stance even without spacers? obviously not as much as spacers but just a little?

and the sh1tty part is that it only rubs on the driver side but clears on the passenger side by a hair due to the stupid lean .. im not about to take it apart to put a spacer...

side note on the alignment

the guy that does my alignments.. and he's dam good.. he's well known around here.. said that 0.6 positive camber was the most he can do with the adjustments after the lift as there's no more adjustments..

i asked for 4.0 caster.. he could only get 2.57.. understandable..

but the camber really bugs me.. positive camber? that's just not right..

all this time and money and still facing issue after issue.. sigghhhh

I'm currently running almost the exact same setup as you. 2" of lift up front with OME springs (Bilsteins set at 0), 265/70 General Grabber AT2's, 17x8 wheels with 4.5" backspace, and Spydertrax 1.25 spacers. I ended up trimming the front fender lips and cutting a 2" square section out of my mudflaps, but I'm not anywhere near rubbing on the body mount. If you are determined to run 285's but don't want to do the body mount chop you are going to have to lose the spacers. That's the nearest you'll get to clearing the body mount and with the additional tire height that is still no guaranty.

And if your tech can get you 2.5 degrees of caster out of that 2.5 lift on factory. UCA's count yourself lucky. My guy could only get me 1 degree of caster with mine. It rides fine, but I would be thrilled with 2.5 degrees. JMO

 

[adam2562]

there's TONS of threads already about what will fit, and what you have to do with each tire size to make it fit without rubbing.. its pretty straight forward. just search and read.. this is another rubbing thread that we didn't need piled on top of the others.

 

[hrod79]

Lose the spacers! 285 will give you a slightly better looking stance, no more rub, no cutting. take that money from selling them to invest partially in UCA if you feel the need. I have factory UCA with 3" OME lift, no rub on body mount, allignment is not perfect but I can't tell. 9" wheel with +10 offset. Biggest thing is that the cross camber matches and Truck won't pull.

 

[jbstrd]

Not sure if you guys caught it, but this thread was revived from 2011.

 

[Kotrin]

Not sure if you guys caught it, but this thread was revived from 2011.

You can shoot me for reviving this thread. After doing my new suspension yesterday I'm rubbing and wanting to avoid it. I've searched and I understand the engineering/mechanics behind what happens, along with why it does it. I'm okay with it as i'm aware of rubber < metal body frame, just wondering if anyone has had a problem with the chop and toyota saying something. Otherwise I'll honestly live with the rub till my spacer arrive and trim plastic. If I put the spidertraxx spacers on my current setup, ill actually have zero body rub, just plastic, though I was trying to avoid going wider due to ORS Laws..

Thanks.

 

[Kotrin]

You can shoot me for reviving this thread. After doing my new suspension yesterday I'm rubbing and wanting to avoid it. I've searched and I understand the engineering/mechanics behind what happens, along with why it does it. I'm okay with it as i'm aware of rubber < metal body frame, just wondering if anyone has had a problem with the chop and toyota saying something. Otherwise I'll honestly live with the rub till my spacer arrive and trim plastic. If I put the spidertraxx spacers on my current setup, ill actually have zero body rub, just plastic, though I was trying to avoid going wider due to ORS Laws..

Thanks.

PS- Trying to do this on a phone while taking care of a 5yr old who hasn't slept since 5am../me sighs.

 

[jbstrd]

[MENTION=65505]Kotrin[/MENTION] Have you had the caster adjusted to as close to 4 Degrees + as possible?

 

[Kotrin]

[MENTION=54404]jbstrd[/MENTION] I was trying to look at my paperwork because I swear it was at 4 already, but i'll need to call them on Monday again. I'll see if I can't get them to adjust it again to 4. I believe it is because it doesn't rub unless i'm 'flexing' it. Normal turning doesn't rub on full lock, only flexing it up as I turn both ways. Make sense?

 

[1engineer]

The only thing you will lose doing a body mount chop is safety. Pretty sure the mount sticks out to keep a tire and wheel and rotor from coming back into the cabin in a front end collision. Your call.

 

[jbstrd]

[MENTION=54404]jbstrd[/MENTION] I was trying to look at my paperwork because I swear it was at 4 already, but i'll need to call them on Monday again. I'll see if I can't get them to adjust it again to 4. I believe it is because it doesn't rub unless i'm 'flexing' it. Normal turning doesn't rub on full lock, only flexing it up as I turn both ways. Make sense?

Yea, makes sense. If it is already at 4, your only other option would be a BMC.

 

[jbstrd]

The only thing you will lose doing a body mount chop is safety. Pretty sure the mount sticks out to keep a tire and wheel and rotor from coming back into the cabin in a front end collision. Your call.

Serious question [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] . If there was that much force to cause the wheel/tire/rotor through the firewall, do you think the body mount would actually stop that from occurring?

 

[3wbdriver]

there's TONS of threads already about what will fit, and what you have to do with each tire size to make it fit without rubbing.. its pretty straight forward. just search and read.. this is another rubbing thread that we didn't need piled on top of the others.

Damned if you do.

Not sure if you guys caught it, but this thread was revived from 2011.

Damned if you don't. And this can't be ANOTHER rubbing thread if it was revived....

Don't worry about it Kotrin. My very first post in here revived a 3 year old thread that was the first hit while doing a general Bing search about lift kits. It was also that hit that made me find and join this forum in the first place. At least it shows you did a search. :wink2:

 

[3wbdriver]

Serious question [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] . If there was that much force to cause the wheel/tire/rotor through the firewall, do you think the body mount would actually stop that from occurring?

It's been discussed before with pictures. That front body mount is much wider and more substantial than the other ones further back along the frame. The 4Runner already has a pretty dismal rating for a front side collision test compared to newer designs. But the theory is that front body mount had to be designed to help in that area. Maybe not stop completely, but mitigate to some degree.

 

[jbstrd]

Damned if you do.



Damned if you don't. And this can't be ANOTHER rubbing thread if it was revived....

Don't worry about it Kotrin. My very first post in here revived a 3 year old thread that was the first hit while doing a general Bing search about lift kits. It was also that hit that made me find and join this forum in the first place. At least it shows you did a search. :wink2:

lol, not knocking the fact he searched. I just didn't want people to think the OP would actually see this since he is probably long gone.

 

[jbstrd]

It's been discussed before with pictures. That front body mount is much wider and more substantial than the other ones further back along the frame. The 4Runner already has a pretty dismal rating for a front side collision test compared to newer designs. But the theory is that front body mount had to be designed to help in that area. Maybe not stop completely, but mitigate to some degree.

Makes sense. I still have my body mount intact and I don't rub. Maybe when I jump up to 34's in the future, we will see.

 

[1engineer]

Serious question [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] . If there was that much force to cause the wheel/tire/rotor through the firewall, do you think the body mount would actually stop that from occurring?

Not stop as much as deflect the components downward. It's much better than nothing. Everything is a compromise.

 

[Kotrin]

Thanks for the response, but unfortunately you confirmed my thoughts about the BMC. I'm going to try some spacers first and modify body before i chop that. After the few accidents i've experience, I need that safety!! LOL

Thanks again all for chiming in. I'll update my own thread with what I find out from doing the spacers on top of my offsetted wheels. I'm not really worrieda bout the rub I get against the metal, its rubber, it'll give and I only get it when I'm offroading and flexing the tire up at full lock =/

Shouldn't have gone so big...or heck gone more!!! (Go big or Go Mall crawling?)

 

[ShadyRunner]

I know this is an old thread, but the main thing I learned here is to check the wheels that go on and if they are aftermarket and their specs. The wheels that the OP is using 17x8 Mojave, which I looked up and have a -12 offset. (Negative 12)

Stock 4Runner wheels are 17x7 with +15 offset.

That's 15mm + 12mm = 27mm PLUS half the extra wheel width difference (1" wider wheels/25.4mm, half of which is 12.7mm).

15+12+12.7. 39.7mm more pushed out than stock. With no spacers even, the outer lip of these wheels are already pushed 1.56" out from midline closer to the outer fender.

With 1.25" spacers (extra 32mm)on top of that, that is up to 71.7mm, over 2.8" pushed out towards outer fender. Yes, that may lead to rubbing with just 265/70/17 that work on other setups when further tucked in. The setup looks good, but this much negative offset will absolutely need a Body mount chop. I've been under the truck and the body mount bracket is angled towards the front of the car the more lateral you are. Towards the center of the car, the bracket connects to the frame further towards the rear of the car which is why BMC becomes more an issue with deep dish rims with spacers.