TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)

[theesotericone]

[MENTION=175921]TonyB66[/MENTION]

Looks like you've got most of the wiring figured out. What Pioneer HU did you buy? The reason I'm asking is if it's less then 5 years old simply grounding the parking brake wire will not work. Newer Pioneers require a signal after the car starts. Since the wires always grounded it doesn't work on new decks. Try it anyway but you'll most likely need a micro bypass wired in.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_8?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=micro+bypass+for+pioneer+avh&sprefix=micro+by%2Caps%2C239&crid=1GQ0QQAEHDFKP

 

[TonyB66]

[MENTION=175921]TonyB66[/MENTION]

Looks like you've got most of the wiring figured out. What Pioneer HU did you buy? The reason I'm asking is if it's less then 5 years old simply grounding the parking brake wire will not work. Newer Pioneers require a signal after the car starts. Since the wires always grounded it doesn't work on new decks. Try it anyway but you'll most likely need a micro bypass wired in.

Thanks for chiming-in.

I have the Pioneer AVH-4100NEX:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-QM6SlnWjtep/p_1304100NEX/Pioneer-AVH-4100NEX.html

Apparently now discontinued. Probably explains why I got it for a good price on Black Friday...

I will try ground, but if that doesn't do the trick, then I'll consider that bypass. Just found this video, which might be worth trying...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1Zuk9WNa9A

Thanks again for your input.

 

[theesotericone]

I will try ground, but if that doesn't do the trick, then I'll consider that bypass. Just found this video, which might be worth trying...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1Zuk9WNa9A

Thanks again for your input.

Grounding that unit will not work. A momentary switch is what people first used to by pass it and it still works fine. The micro bypasses where created to avoid having to add a visible switch. You just wire them up, shove your HU back in and never worry about it again.

 

[TonyB66]

Grounding that unit will not work. A momentary switch is what people first used to by pass it and it still works fine. The micro bypasses where created to avoid having to add a visible switch. You just wire them up, shove your HU back in and never worry about it again.

You convinced me. Looks like I can get this by Friday if I order in the next 45 minutes...

https://smile.amazon.com/APPS2Car-P...33&sr=8-2&keywords=bypass+Pioneer+AVH-4100NEX

Thanks!

EDIT/ADD: This is one is a few bucks more... Any reason to get one over the other?

https://smile.amazon.com/MicroBypas...33&sr=8-1&keywords=bypass+Pioneer+AVH-4100NEX

 

[theesotericone]

You convinced me. Looks like I can get this by Friday if I order in the next 45 minutes...

https://smile.amazon.com/APPS2Car-P...33&sr=8-2&keywords=bypass+Pioneer+AVH-4100NEX

Thanks!

EDIT/ADD: This is one is a few bucks more... Any reason to get one over the other?

https://smile.amazon.com/MicroBypas...33&sr=8-1&keywords=bypass+Pioneer+AVH-4100NEX

They all do the same thing. Both get good reviews and it's Amazon. I don't see any reason to spend another 5 bucks. Get the cheaper one and a cup of coffee. lol

 

[TonyB66]

They all do the same thing. Both get good reviews and it's Amazon. I don't see any reason to spend another 5 bucks. Get the cheaper one and a cup of coffee. lol

Done. Another factor... The more expensive one was a Saturday delivery, as opposed to Friday.

It has green, blue and black wires. I imagine green to green (parking brake wire from HU). Black to ground. Does the blue tie into the blue from the Metra harness? I would think so...

 

[theesotericone]

Done. Another factor... The more expensive one was a Saturday delivery, as opposed to Friday.

It has green, blue and black wires. I imagine green to green (parking brake wire from HU). Black to ground. Does the blue tie into the blue from the Metra harness? I would think so...

Yep. Blue from unit goes to blue from micro bypass. Just follow the color coding. lol

The blue wire is the remote wire. It's what sends a signal to tell your amp to turn on. In this case you'll also use it to tell the micro bypass that there's power and it should do it's two pulses. Pioneer was actually the first manufacturer to use a single and then double pulse read to defeat the "just ground the parking brake wire" hack. Smart guys they are. Luckily there's always someone smarter to find the new hack. lol

 

[TonyB66]

Yep. Blue from unit goes to blue from micro bypass. Just follow the color coding. lol

The blue wire is the remote wire. It's what sends a signal to tell your amp to turn on. In this case you'll also use it to tell the micro bypass that there's power and it should do it's two pulses. Pioneer was actually the first manufacturer to use a single and then double pulse read to defeat the "just ground the parking brake wire" hack. Smart guys they are. Luckily there's always someone smarter to find the new hack. lol

Good stuff, and thanks again.

The blue is integral to this micro bypass. Since I want to have a manual switch for my antenna, that should be on the blue wire too, as I understand it. I imagine that the switch will be off or antenna down most of the time. Will that be problematic?

 

[theesotericone]

Good stuff, and thanks again.

The blue is integral to this micro bypass. Since I want to have a manual switch for my antenna, that should be on the blue wire too, as I understand it. I imagine that the switch will be off or antenna down most of the time. Will that be problematic?

I don't have a toggle for my antenna installed but I find it hard to imagine it should be wired into the remote wire(blue). The stock deck doesn't have one and the antenna works. You need to figure out how the antenna senses the deck is on.

12Volt.com says it should be black/red.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/stereodetail/2026.html

Found a thread that might help. Last post by [MENTION=119226]reelamin[/MENTION]. He's saing it was black/white on his.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/127343-stereo-wiring-diagram-color-power-antenna.html

 

[TonyB66]

I don't have a toggle for my antenna installed but I find it hard to imagine it should be wired into the remote wire(blue). The stock deck doesn't have one and the antenna works. You need to figure out how the antenna senses the deck is on.

12Volt.com says it should be black/red.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/stereodetail/2026.html

Found a thread that might help. Last post by [MENTION=119226]reelamin[/MENTION]. He's saing it was black/white on his.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/127343-stereo-wiring-diagram-color-power-antenna.html

That's a cool website.

Yes, for a 2000, it states that the black/white wire is for the antenna trigger:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/stereodetail/2029.html

Pretty much all accounts I've found, it's the blue wire. Even the Metra bag states that the blue wire is for the "power antenna". I was going to start crimping tonight, but I think I will hold-off a little longer...

 

[theesotericone]

That's a cool website.

Yes, for a 2000, it states that the black/white wire is for the antenna trigger:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/stereodetail/2029.html

Pretty much all accounts I've found, it's the blue wire. Even the Metra bag states that the blue wire is for the "power antenna". I was going to start crimping tonight, but I think I will hold-off a little longer...

LOL. I guess I should have looked at your model year and not mine. Man it pisses me off when OEM's change wire colors in the same generations. Why? They run out of black/red from 97 to 00? And yeah it's a great site. Bookmark it.

I'd do what reelamin did and cut into that wire before that factory harness then wire the switch in from it. That put it working all the time regardless. If you swap in another HU in 10 years it's already done.

 

[Denis_Ruso]

[MENTION=175921]TonyB66[/MENTION]

Looks like you've got most of the wiring figured out. What Pioneer HU did you buy? The reason I'm asking is if it's less then 5 years old simply grounding the parking brake wire will not work. Newer Pioneers require a signal after the car starts. Since the wires always grounded it doesn't work on new decks. Try it anyway but you'll most likely need a micro bypass wired in.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_8?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=micro+bypass+for+pioneer+avh&sprefix=micro+by%2Caps%2C239&crid=1GQ0QQAEHDFKP

Just a heads up though, I have the Pioneer SPH-DA120 and when I installed the bypass on mine, I had issues with the video not appearing for the reverse camera. I don't know if the functionality of the bypass interferes with the "reverse signal" or if I wired something wrong. But as soon as I removed the bypass the video started working.

Kinda makes sense to me since the bypass is made to make the HU think you are parked. However when you shift in "reverse" the constant park signal prevents the HU from allowing the reverse signal to be accepted. So when I shifted in reverse the video came up blank. Upon removal the video worked.

Anyways if you do the bypass, and your backup camera isn't working you'll know why.

 

[TonyB66]

Denis, thanks for the feedback. Sort of confirms my earlier concern...

So, I did as "theesotericone" pointed-out in that one thread and located that black/white wire. Quite easy with everything apart now...

I temporarily hooked-up the stock amp and radio and I was able to confirm that this wire is indeed antenna power:

I added about a foot of wire onto each cut end and it's now ready to receive a switch. I plan to mount the switch in the bottom left cubby. Those switches arrived today and feel quite nice. I wrapped the wires back-up with some friction tape...

There was a lot of dust back there, so I spent a fair amount of time cleaning-up with damp paper towels and a vacuum.

I permanently mounted that 74 bulb base that I had added in the cigarette lighter location.

I mounted the tweeters. I will wrap the speaker wires is various spots to protect against abrasion and also support the speaker wires for strain-relief reasons. I'll likely do that tomorrow...

I began scoping-out a location for the amp. It should indeed fit in the factory amp location. I'll probably zip tie it in place, after I confirmed all works well, and I have the desired settings. I recall that I will likely want full gain to those Infinity front speakers, as an example...

I did some theft deterrence today as well, which I won't go into detail here.

I aim to also check for cross-over locations tomorrow too. Inside the kick panel would be nice, secured so not rattling. [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] - On these cross-overs, do you recall if you pressed those "+3db" buttons?

I decided to remove the cargo privacy screen or whatever it is called. When we go on trips, it will likely just get in the way most of the time, and take-up valuable space. Also, when used, I somehow feel that a thief will be more inclined to want to break-in, thinking that it is hiding valuables. For anyone who cares, it's exactly 8 pounds.

I looked at the back-up camera cable I had routed a couple weeks back and it has three wires. The video line with RCA to the HU, red (power) and black (ground). I'll probably do switched power and incorporate both (red and black) into the Metra / HU crimp work to come...

I did look briefly for that red/yellow (will silver tick marks) reverse wire to trigger the back-up camera, but did not see it. I will look more tomorrow, which is when I should get that parking brake bypass...

Once everything is done, working well, I suppose I should get the doors back to how they looked before - with the vapor barriers?

I have some pretty thick mil sheets of plastic (clear) that I can cut to size...

 

[theesotericone]

[MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] - On these cross-overs, do you recall if you pressed those "+3db" buttons?

It's coming along nicely.

I didn't use the 3dB boost. I have a dedicated 4 channel amp with low pass, high pass, and gain control on each channel set. It was better for me to tune the system from that. My best advice is get some of your wifes favorite tunes and close the doors. Play a song with it off then play the same song with it on. See what sounds better to you. How music sounds is such a personal choice you should be the one making the decision.

 

[TonyB66]

It's coming along nicely.

I didn't use the 3dB boost. I have a dedicated 4 channel amp with low pass, high pass, and gain control on each channel set. It was better for me to tune the system from that. My best advice is get some of your wifes favorite tunes and close the doors. Play a song with it off then play the same song with it on. See what sounds better to you. How music sounds is such a personal choice you should be the one making the decision.

Thank you. I like your advice.

Was just reading about HPFs actually. It has been a long time... This amp has that, but no low pass.

I will likely take this approach:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-C7hC6...und-system-part-3-adding-a-4-channel-amp.aspx

Did you hassle with putting back vapor barriers onto the doors? Not seeing anything here on the forum about doing so....

 

[theesotericone]

Thank you. I like your advice.

Was just reading about HPFs actually. It has been a long time... This amp has that, but no low pass.

I will likely take this approach:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-C7hC6...und-system-part-3-adding-a-4-channel-amp.aspx

Did you hassle with putting back vapor barriers onto the doors? Not seeing anything here on the forum about doing so....

I didn't do vapor barrier but I did do 3mm closed cell foam over the door openings. It acts as a vapor barrier as well as a sound deadener. Butyl takes away vibration. Closed cell keeps out road noise. So put some type of vapor barrier back.

Don't worry a lot about not having a low pass filter. The Polks have plenty of bass to get you a good sound stage. Follow that article and spend the time to tune it properly. In a nut shell you want to play with the hi pass until the music seems like it's in front of you. You'll no what I'm talking about once you start tuning. lol

 

[TonyB66]

I didn't do vapor barrier but I did do 3mm closed cell foam over the door openings. It acts as a vapor barrier as well as a sound deadener. Butyl takes away vibration. Closed cell keeps out road noise. So put some type of vapor barrier back.

Don't worry a lot about not having a low pass filter. The Polks have plenty of bass to get you a good sound stage. Follow that article and spend the time to tune it properly. In a nut shell you want to play with the hi pass until the music seems like it's in front of you. You'll no what I'm talking about once you start tuning. lol

The one thing I do remember is closing my eyes and listening while tuning, but in a home system. Makes sense.

I'll cover all holes individually with a transparent sheet, as opposed to one huge piece like the factory, requiring slits for moving parts.

You have been most helpful. Thanks much.

 

[TonyB66]

Well, I think I'll have some tunes in the Runner by this afternoon.

The speakers are installed. Here is the front, driver side. You'll notice that I used little dabs of silicone to keep the speaker wires from moving around and receiving abrasion...

Right rear side, using that adaptor allowing 6.5" speakers to be used:

The machine screws used have both nyloc nuts and blue Loctite. Also, I added one more foam backing ring on the rear speakers as originals were somewhat compresses already from when used in my MINI Cooper. Hobby Lobby has adhesive foam sheets for like a buck each...

Inside that door, again little dabs of silicone to anchor the speaker wires...

Speaker wiring is done for the fronts up to the cross-overs. No problem fitting the passenger cross-over under the kick panel. The driver's side, not so sure though. There is space above if need be, so I provided an extra foot of length. The rear speaker wires are cut to length and ready to be connected to the amp. A shot of a front speaker wire butt connections with the amp...

I was able to find my reverse trigger wire on the floor on the driver's side. It is indeed red/yellow, with silver tick marks. The photo is not all that great, but I used one of my wife's sewing needles to penetrate the wire. This allowed me to check for voltage with minimal damage to the wire. A little awkward sitting on the carpet floor, engine running, going into reverse. Had the foot on the brake, and engaged the parking brake of course. The meter read 13+ volts, then 0 when I went out of reverse. So, I'll tie into that later today, or at least connect a wires to the HU's purple wire to reach that location...

Once I successfully test everything from basic HU operation, the parking brake bypass (DVD operation), radio reception, that antenna switch, the camera, I'll then address the vapor barrier on the doors...

 

[octanejunkie]

Nice clean job, Tony :thumb:

 

[TonyB66]

Thanks Mike.

Well, the HU is installed. I popped-in a DVD and it played in gear, no parking brake engaged, so the bypass is working properly. The antenna switch is working well too. I took a few minutes to clean the antenna with some rubbing alcohol. I then lubed it by applying a few coats of silicone spray, and it's silky smooth now when it moves.

Back to the install... Not ending the day happy though. I have no audio, on that DVD, or the radio. Had some family obligations, so I'll need to figure it out tomorrow...

I thought maybe the amp was not getting power, but I put a needle in the yellow constant power wire, and the black ground wire, and got 13+ volts. So, the amp is getting power, at least the constant one.

I'm now pretty sure it's the amp's remote blue/white wire. There are two. I somehow noted just one, and that was to turn on/off addtional amps, which are not applicable here; so I made a mental note to disregard blue/white on the amp. There is another blue/white wire on the amp, and it too is not connected, and I believe that is what carries the trigger signal from the HU. If anyone can confirm, that would be great. Otherwise, I'll connect that wire tomorrow, and hopefully get audio...

I will note that this little amp fits quite nicely. It wedges-in such that anchoring it is really not necessary, IMO. It really cannot go anywhere... I had some extra automotive black carpet and I cut a couple small pieces for the amp sit-on and rest against. The underside and back might have otherwise rattled against those surfaces. The way I positioned and oriented the amp, I believe that I'll be able to adjust the gain even when it's all closed-up, to the right the accelerator pedal. I also turned the amp so that small toggles for the settings, like for the HPF, can be adjusted without removal of the amp. I took a couple of photos, but it's hard to see anything of importance, so I won't bother sharing...

I found the RCA connections to slid-out a little too easily for my preferences, so I taped all of those together. When installing the HU, the amp, all of the wires, invariably something hangs-up and a connections can become less secure or even disconnect.

I got the microphone on the steering column for now, so hopefully that will be a good location. I have a box of wires I removed from my MINI, about 20 pounds worth, so I'm using some of those in the 4Runner, today one for the reverse trigger, enough length to reach where I'll make the splice connection. I will route it tomorrow, then leave it there for connection later...

If I can address the audio tomorrow by noon time, I'll work on the installation of the aftermarket driver's seat.