TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Brown radiator, gotta go
TonyB66
New member
Thanks all. Apparently I left the rear window down last night. Thankfully no rain. A few leaves, not cats, squirrels, etc...
Seems like the pictures work here again. Not sure how others do it, but it seems that one needs to upload them to the forum, into an album, then provide the link in the post. At least that's how I did it.
New FOB case arrived yesterday and replaced it with the broken one. All seems to work well. Except, one of the rear passenger doors didn't open. Then it worked. A little odd...
In addition to what I shared previously, ordered later last night:
DE3175 LED bulbs (qty 4, think I need 4), 300 lumens, for dome and map lighting...
Thanks again Mike. You were most helpful and supportive in other threads and via PMs too.
Strange you mention it. Just yesterday I put my weight (not a heavy guy) on the rear bumper and it dropped more than I would have expected. And, it felt very "springy". I have no reference point with 3rd gens though. Suspension is very much on the list. From reading here, a couple coil-over options will be discussed later, at some point. In that one thread I learned of Sonoran Steel, I think the 1.2 system. Look forward to such talk, but this will be after the remodel...
Oh, the timing belt and water pump were done at 185k miles! I'm at 191+ now. That said, I want to address this commingling of fluids. Something like has been in my Amazon cart (Saved for later):
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product..._sfl_title_9?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
If there is anything more desirable, please do inform.
Are there any radiator options that are 100% non-plastic? Whenever I replaced these in the past, it was with all aluminum ones. I realize factory will likely get me another 200k though... Again, post house remodel.
On the LBJs, a forum member or two used the beefier Tacoma ones. I've been in sponge-mode for several months, but I believe I read that here. Thoughts? If I recall correctly, they might have needed some slight modification, but I think not much.
Tranny or differential fluids is something I can tackle in the short term. Recommendations on fluids is welcome. I did bookmark a thread or two on that topic though...
The brake system was flushed about a year ago.
I will do plugs and wires when I do my first oil change. Most of you guys go full synthetic? What oil filters? I'd like to start purchasing those items in quantity.
Minus a SC, header, exhaust, head work, not much to be gained powerwise, right? Something called the deckplate mod and some other one, I forgot...
This truck will be getting heavier, so I'd like to increase the output, or get more torque to help compensate. After reading a couple threads, I now have the ECT permanently on.
Odd for me to have a vehicle that will be getting heavier. In the MINI Cooper community I'm somewhat known for the opposite. I lightened her a few hundred pounds. We're talking excess wiring removed, seats, sound-deadening material inside and out, hidden roof rack mounts (pain to remove), you get the idea. Doesn't look gutted, but finished though. It's currently at 230 whp (around 270 crank), with plans to get it at or near 300. It's a hoot to drive now already. Laguna Seca is not far from me, so I hope to have some track days, some day...
Different animal here of course. Weight will get added, but even then I'll consider weight in my decision process when considering bumpers, a rack, brakes, etc.
Thanks. Desert Dune does look nice, I agree. Honestly, I would have purchased it with any factory color. The roof and part of the hood has some oxidation though. I'm not so keen on the silver cladding though. As I said in another thread, I'd prefer no cladding at all. But... the options I wanted, like the e-locker, were always on the Limiteds that I saw. Thinking seriously about bedliner on all of the cladding. Eventually maybe even the entire truck...
Checking-out your build thread today!
Seems like the pictures work here again. Not sure how others do it, but it seems that one needs to upload them to the forum, into an album, then provide the link in the post. At least that's how I did it.
New FOB case arrived yesterday and replaced it with the broken one. All seems to work well. Except, one of the rear passenger doors didn't open. Then it worked. A little odd...
In addition to what I shared previously, ordered later last night:
DE3175 LED bulbs (qty 4, think I need 4), 300 lumens, for dome and map lighting...
Thanks again Mike. You were most helpful and supportive in other threads and via PMs too.
Strange you mention it. Just yesterday I put my weight (not a heavy guy) on the rear bumper and it dropped more than I would have expected. And, it felt very "springy". I have no reference point with 3rd gens though. Suspension is very much on the list. From reading here, a couple coil-over options will be discussed later, at some point. In that one thread I learned of Sonoran Steel, I think the 1.2 system. Look forward to such talk, but this will be after the remodel...
Oh, the timing belt and water pump were done at 185k miles! I'm at 191+ now. That said, I want to address this commingling of fluids. Something like has been in my Amazon cart (Saved for later):
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product..._sfl_title_9?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
If there is anything more desirable, please do inform.
Are there any radiator options that are 100% non-plastic? Whenever I replaced these in the past, it was with all aluminum ones. I realize factory will likely get me another 200k though... Again, post house remodel.
On the LBJs, a forum member or two used the beefier Tacoma ones. I've been in sponge-mode for several months, but I believe I read that here. Thoughts? If I recall correctly, they might have needed some slight modification, but I think not much.
Tranny or differential fluids is something I can tackle in the short term. Recommendations on fluids is welcome. I did bookmark a thread or two on that topic though...
The brake system was flushed about a year ago.
I will do plugs and wires when I do my first oil change. Most of you guys go full synthetic? What oil filters? I'd like to start purchasing those items in quantity.
Minus a SC, header, exhaust, head work, not much to be gained powerwise, right? Something called the deckplate mod and some other one, I forgot...
This truck will be getting heavier, so I'd like to increase the output, or get more torque to help compensate. After reading a couple threads, I now have the ECT permanently on.
Odd for me to have a vehicle that will be getting heavier. In the MINI Cooper community I'm somewhat known for the opposite. I lightened her a few hundred pounds. We're talking excess wiring removed, seats, sound-deadening material inside and out, hidden roof rack mounts (pain to remove), you get the idea. Doesn't look gutted, but finished though. It's currently at 230 whp (around 270 crank), with plans to get it at or near 300. It's a hoot to drive now already. Laguna Seca is not far from me, so I hope to have some track days, some day...
Different animal here of course. Weight will get added, but even then I'll consider weight in my decision process when considering bumpers, a rack, brakes, etc.
Thanks. Desert Dune does look nice, I agree. Honestly, I would have purchased it with any factory color. The roof and part of the hood has some oxidation though. I'm not so keen on the silver cladding though. As I said in another thread, I'd prefer no cladding at all. But... the options I wanted, like the e-locker, were always on the Limiteds that I saw. Thinking seriously about bedliner on all of the cladding. Eventually maybe even the entire truck...
Checking-out your build thread today!
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Expurgated for efficiency
For $1500 delivered it's a serious solution to consider
Good thing on the belt. Put a sticker on the airbox saying "TB @ 285K"
I would get the Japanese Denso from a Toyota dealer for $120 delivered. To go Camelback Toyota, enter your vehicle info and search for radiator. Done.
Champion makes an all alu for about $300+ but I wouldn't bother. There may be others, but for $120 an OEM delivered to your door, Denso is GTG
Just get an OEM set off eBay or Amazon, they are like $98 each. Done
You can do all this yourself. Trans can be staged over several fluid changes or all at once. A flush isn't easy but it's not impossible. Google it and choose which you want to do.
Draining the rear diff is cake. Do the rear diff breather mod at the same time just because. Most guys will use Toyota rear diff fluid, if you use aftermarket it's usually 80/90W but some will argue for 75W. If you have a drive through lube shop nearby they can do both for you, with a flush; see if they have a package deal and be prepared to spend over $200.
Do the seafoam treatment and see what your oil looks like. The vacuum line off the PCV is a good one to use for the entire intake manifold if you want to do the top end too.
I am going full synthetic 5W30 with a WIX XP filter, PN 51348XP. If using conventional oil it's just PN 51348. If you need to do 3-4K oil changes (lots of city driving with prolonged idling) then don't bother with synthetic.
I went with NGK plugs and wires. Done. If you want "OEM" wires you can get them off Amazon or Camelback for about $50
I wouldn't bother with any of that just yet. If you go SC in the future then worry about mods to support it. I decided to skip the deckplate mod for my own reasons, mostly the negatives outweighed the positives.
ECT effects on MPG are debatable, but knowing when to use or turn off OD has been instrumental in my driving style and MPG/transmission life journey. Watch trans temp on your SGII and use your gears (even in an automatic) to your advantage - also helps save gas and prolong brake life. What is your gear ratio in that truck, 4.3:1?
Short of forced induction, re-gearing or a manual trans, you can't do much tuning to increase power in these trucks (no afternoon stroker mod) but you can pay for power at the pump by using 91 octane - other than that, REDUCING weight and accepting the fact that the vehicle profile DRAGS at freeway speed like a brick in a breeze - it's not a knife-edged design that cuts the wind, it's a truck. Sorry for that awful RO sentence.
You can get bedliner mixed to match almost any color, so you can go real close to Desert Dune all around and color match your bumpers while you are at it. Or, if you are going to bed liner the entire truck, pull the cladding, fill the holes and shoot the truck. Done.
Now all you need is a sport hood :guitar2:
For $1500 delivered it's a serious solution to consider
Good thing on the belt. Put a sticker on the airbox saying "TB @ 285K"
I would get the Japanese Denso from a Toyota dealer for $120 delivered. To go Camelback Toyota, enter your vehicle info and search for radiator. Done.
Champion makes an all alu for about $300+ but I wouldn't bother. There may be others, but for $120 an OEM delivered to your door, Denso is GTG
Just get an OEM set off eBay or Amazon, they are like $98 each. Done
You can do all this yourself. Trans can be staged over several fluid changes or all at once. A flush isn't easy but it's not impossible. Google it and choose which you want to do.
Draining the rear diff is cake. Do the rear diff breather mod at the same time just because. Most guys will use Toyota rear diff fluid, if you use aftermarket it's usually 80/90W but some will argue for 75W. If you have a drive through lube shop nearby they can do both for you, with a flush; see if they have a package deal and be prepared to spend over $200.
Do the seafoam treatment and see what your oil looks like. The vacuum line off the PCV is a good one to use for the entire intake manifold if you want to do the top end too.
I am going full synthetic 5W30 with a WIX XP filter, PN 51348XP. If using conventional oil it's just PN 51348. If you need to do 3-4K oil changes (lots of city driving with prolonged idling) then don't bother with synthetic.
I went with NGK plugs and wires. Done. If you want "OEM" wires you can get them off Amazon or Camelback for about $50
I wouldn't bother with any of that just yet. If you go SC in the future then worry about mods to support it. I decided to skip the deckplate mod for my own reasons, mostly the negatives outweighed the positives.
ECT effects on MPG are debatable, but knowing when to use or turn off OD has been instrumental in my driving style and MPG/transmission life journey. Watch trans temp on your SGII and use your gears (even in an automatic) to your advantage - also helps save gas and prolong brake life. What is your gear ratio in that truck, 4.3:1?
Short of forced induction, re-gearing or a manual trans, you can't do much tuning to increase power in these trucks (no afternoon stroker mod) but you can pay for power at the pump by using 91 octane - other than that, REDUCING weight and accepting the fact that the vehicle profile DRAGS at freeway speed like a brick in a breeze - it's not a knife-edged design that cuts the wind, it's a truck. Sorry for that awful RO sentence.
You can get bedliner mixed to match almost any color, so you can go real close to Desert Dune all around and color match your bumpers while you are at it. Or, if you are going to bed liner the entire truck, pull the cladding, fill the holes and shoot the truck. Done.
Now all you need is a sport hood :guitar2:
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TonyB66
New member
Mike, as always, good stuff from you. Thanks!
That Sonoran Steel 1.2 has my interest alright. Hoping to find folks here on the forum who went that route...
There is a sticker on the timing belt cover that says 185k. I'd do both at the same time. Either way, one more sticker can't hurt of course.
That Champion radiator is sometimes 220 bucks delivered. About 100 more than an OEM replacement. That might be worth it, for me at least...
I'd like to do the tranny and differential fluid changes myself, so that will be on my list before we hit snow country.
Since this will be a trip truck, as opposed to local stop/go traffic, I'll go full synthetic.
Do you go with Iridium NGKs, maybe like these?
https://www.amazon.com/NGK-BKR5EIX-11-Iridium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000A8JLIY
Seafoam has been doing its thing in the fuel since I bought it. I'll try to locate that vacuum line you mentioned off the PCV. I am still quite unfamiliar with the engine bay at this time... I'll add some to the oil in a few weeks, drive it a few miles, then do an oil change. Thanks for the WIX oil filter part number. Will purchase later today...
Yes, 4.3 gear ratio.
You like that hood as you mentioned it a few times to me. I do too. But, it's just for aesthetic reasons, right? Don't get me wrong... I have a blown car and the scoop serves a vital purpose (fresh air for inter-cooling). A scoop actually creates more drag. Hot engine bay air can vacate though, but then I'd rather have more appropriate vents for that purpose.
That Sonoran Steel 1.2 has my interest alright. Hoping to find folks here on the forum who went that route...
There is a sticker on the timing belt cover that says 185k. I'd do both at the same time. Either way, one more sticker can't hurt of course.
That Champion radiator is sometimes 220 bucks delivered. About 100 more than an OEM replacement. That might be worth it, for me at least...
I'd like to do the tranny and differential fluid changes myself, so that will be on my list before we hit snow country.
Since this will be a trip truck, as opposed to local stop/go traffic, I'll go full synthetic.
Do you go with Iridium NGKs, maybe like these?
https://www.amazon.com/NGK-BKR5EIX-11-Iridium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000A8JLIY
Seafoam has been doing its thing in the fuel since I bought it. I'll try to locate that vacuum line you mentioned off the PCV. I am still quite unfamiliar with the engine bay at this time... I'll add some to the oil in a few weeks, drive it a few miles, then do an oil change. Thanks for the WIX oil filter part number. Will purchase later today...
Yes, 4.3 gear ratio.
You like that hood as you mentioned it a few times to me. I do too. But, it's just for aesthetic reasons, right? Don't get me wrong... I have a blown car and the scoop serves a vital purpose (fresh air for inter-cooling). A scoop actually creates more drag. Hot engine bay air can vacate though, but then I'd rather have more appropriate vents for that purpose.
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
I've heard from a few that the SS1.2 is a worthy contender. If I had to do it over again I'd likely go that way as mine would be light wheeling/snow driven as opposed to a crawler.
Champion rads are chinese made and are generally okay, I really don't mind stock/plastic rads that fit as designed, and if they last 200K how many are you really gonna buy?
I went with the standard, non-irridium NGK plug.
Sport hoods are cool. Idgaf about drag, it looks boss. Go get you one, the house can wait. Lol
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
TonyB66
New member
I did comment earlier that the OEM radiator is approaching 200k miles, so that is a consideration to go that route, again...
Well, I just ordered this, probably to arrive after the holidays.
I'll start looking for ScanGauge 2 mount locations tomorrow. The cable arrives on Thu...
On display, I'll likely choose:
1. Intake air temp
2. Coolant temp
3. Trany temp
4. Average fuel economy
The voltage display seems to work well from that cigarette lighter/USB charger. Reads generally from 14 to 14.2 volts while driving. No need to use the SG2 for volts...
Well, I just ordered this, probably to arrive after the holidays.
I'll start looking for ScanGauge 2 mount locations tomorrow. The cable arrives on Thu...
On display, I'll likely choose:
1. Intake air temp
2. Coolant temp
3. Trany temp
4. Average fuel economy
The voltage display seems to work well from that cigarette lighter/USB charger. Reads generally from 14 to 14.2 volts while driving. No need to use the SG2 for volts...
octanejunkie
Elite Member
The best place for the SGII I've seen is right on top of the steering column in front of the gauge cluster - you're not missing much there except a few idiot lights. Anything else will have you looking away from the road, unless you go dashtop.
Your choices of monitors are reasonable, I use TorquePro and have those temps plus MAF, Fuel Trims, Load and Timing on display as well as RPM so I can get a single-screen view of how hard my engine is working in a glance.
Average fuel economy is a balancing act I've not yet learned to accurately tune, so I ditched it. I've done enough driving to have an idea of my overall fuel economy which is 14-17 in the city/daily driving and 18-22 HWY driving out to NV. YMMV
My vanity plate took 15 weeks. You should have yours by Easter. Thanks Gov Brown.
TonyB66
New member
I imagine once I understand what the fuel efficiency is in various scenarios I'll opt for a different metric. Yanking it out of my MINI after my next meeting (work from home)...
I'll try it on top of the column first, as you described Mike. I did indeed see a few different mounting locations in various threads... That one seems to make the most sense.
I'll be wanting to mount a mobile ham radio (Kenwood TMV71A) at some point, and I'm thinking of removing the factory radio, going single DIN to free-up a space for that unit. It has a detachable face, so there might be some creative options:
https://www.hamradio.com/detail.cfm?pid=H0-008951
Hey, is there a brightness adjust on the automatic climate control? The dash knob that adjusts such display lighting doesn't impact that unit. Does the stereo though, so I would think that it should do the automatic climate control, so maybe a loose connection...
Oh, I found a thread on the PCV location to use Seafoam (first post, photos):
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/83156-youve-been-doing-wrong-seafoam-injection-port.html
Toward the end, some apparently are using a Seafoam spray at the TB though...
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TonyB66
New member
Seafoam in fuel tank, check.
Seafoam in the vacuum lines, check.
Always liked doing this one because of the glorious pontiff-like white smoke! There was not a ton, but a fair amount though. The set-up I use on my MINI worked perfectly.
The threaded brass fitting is for an intercooler bung on my MINI, but it slides perfectly into the vacuum line in this application.
Used about 3/4 of the Seafoam bottle. Will put the remainder in the crankcase later today. Looks like it needs to be 1.5 ounces per quart of oil. Seems that we have about 5.5 to 6 quarts. About 1/2 can is needed, so I'll open another bottle. The oil is actually approaching the fill mark, a bit low, so that is a good thing here...
Air filter seems ok. I have K&N oiled air filters in our other cars, not always for performance gains, but to not have those recurring costs to buy new filters. Looks like our K&N option is a drop-in, as opposed to a cone?
Speaking of air, the air box seems to pull-in outside air from the passenger wheel well area? I didn't have time to go under and explore, but it points that way...
Ordered some more maintenance-related stuff:
NGK (4302) BKR5EKPB 11 4 Pack x 2 (I know, wish we needed 8!)
First thought I need two of these! Learning curve is still upon me...
Are these hairline cracks?
Seafoam in the vacuum lines, check.
Always liked doing this one because of the glorious pontiff-like white smoke! There was not a ton, but a fair amount though. The set-up I use on my MINI worked perfectly.
The threaded brass fitting is for an intercooler bung on my MINI, but it slides perfectly into the vacuum line in this application.
Used about 3/4 of the Seafoam bottle. Will put the remainder in the crankcase later today. Looks like it needs to be 1.5 ounces per quart of oil. Seems that we have about 5.5 to 6 quarts. About 1/2 can is needed, so I'll open another bottle. The oil is actually approaching the fill mark, a bit low, so that is a good thing here...
Air filter seems ok. I have K&N oiled air filters in our other cars, not always for performance gains, but to not have those recurring costs to buy new filters. Looks like our K&N option is a drop-in, as opposed to a cone?
Speaking of air, the air box seems to pull-in outside air from the passenger wheel well area? I didn't have time to go under and explore, but it points that way...
Ordered some more maintenance-related stuff:
NGK (4302) BKR5EKPB 11 4 Pack x 2 (I know, wish we needed 8!)
First thought I need two of these! Learning curve is still upon me...
Are these hairline cracks?
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Seafoam in fuel tank, check.
Seafoam in the vacuum lines, check.
Always liked doing this one because of the glorious pontiff-like white smoke! There was not a ton, but a fair amount though. The set-up I use on my MINI worked perfectly.
The threaded brass fitting is for an intercooler bung on my MINI, but it slides perfectly into the vacuum line in this application.
Used about 3/4 of the Seafoam bottle. Will put the remainder in the crankcase later today. Looks like it needs to be 1.5 ounces per quart of oil. Seems that we have about 5.5 to 6 quarts. About 1/2 can is needed, so I'll open another bottle. The oil is actually approaching the fill mark, a bit low, so that is a good thing here...
I have a similar setup with a funnel and an adapter for that hose.
SeaFoam wants 2 oz per gallon in the tank, so that’s 1 can per 8 gallons of gas or 2 cans per tankful. A less expensive option in the tank and crankcase is Marvel Mystery Oil. 32oz of that is like $3 at Walmart.
No to K&N, it’s oil will wreak havoc with the MAF sensor over time. Just get plain paper filters, WIX or similar, and change them every second oil change or knock them out, really depends on how dusty they get. I use el cheapo air filter from Amazon via subscription that costs like $11 and doesn't require washing and oiling. I always hated that on my dirtbike.
Yes, the air box draws from the wheel well.
Ordered some more maintenance-related stuff:
NGK (4302) BKR5EKPB 11 4 Pack x 2 (I know, wish we needed 8!)
First thought I need two of these! Learning curve is still upon me...
Are these hairline cracks?
Most guys opt for Toyota OEM fuel filters, but you are free to do as you like. Toyota’s fuel filters are lifetime so I don’t know why you are changing it. LMAO (inside joke)
8 plugs now means you only need to buy 4 next time :thumb:
One set of wires, remember, one coil per two plugs LOL
Those do look like hairline cracks… got a closeup?
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theesotericone
New member
Mine was still doing it's job just fine when I replaced it at 235,000 miles. I was gonna cut it open and take a look but we all know how lazy I am. lol
Beaumont67
New member
octanejunkie ^^ I didn't buy the oil filter 51348XP / hope my WIX 51516XP works...might just be a longer one ??
My brother bought an aluminum Champion rad, off E-bay for his 2000 Jeep Wrangler.
- 14 months later, 2 rads had leaked and he got his money refunded
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/114586-radiators-koyo-vs-rest-3.html
- Koyo HH Series Radiators are built to fit like OEM. They provide improved cooling with OEM size and thickness. The radiator is fully polished to a mirror finish and has a 48mm core. All Koyo aluminum radiators are made from aircraft quality aluminum with heli-arc welded cores that are NOCOLOK-brazed. They are built to handles high revving, high performance motors, and is perfect for turbocharged, supercharged, and nitrous oxide equipped engines.
Fluids, the WIX XP Platinum are extended mileage filters / all I use.
- they contain a synthetic media / also sold to Amsoil & rebranded
- purchased from Filter1.com
I no longer use Amsoil (Group IV & way to expensive), except for Syn. grease / Redline for the Transmission & Gear oil.
And Pennzoil Ultra for engine oil, made from 99.5% clean Natural Gas base stock.
- my engine oil change frequency is 10,000 Km or 6,200 miles
- 2000 4Runner SR5 v6 https://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilGarage/internal/vehiclelookuppage.aspx?url2=2000+TOYOTA+4-RUNNER+8
- Transmission Synthetic Group V - D6 ATF - gallon - $49.95 @ Summit / 30705
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/red-30705
- Our lowest viscosity, most shear-stable ATF for consistent operation, designed to satisfy Dexron-VI®, Mercon®SP, Mercon®LV, Honda DW-1, Toyota WS, Mercedes Benz NAG-2, ZF-LG 6, 6+ and 8 fluids
Dimple Magnets for pan ($35 each) & oil filter (4pk for $35)...quality products & Made in USA...Phone 1-704-320-0700
Canadian distributor in ON. sells them for $35 Cdn & free shipping if buy 3 products...Phone 1-905-665-7883
Magnetic Drain Plugs - Dimple Products
Attachments
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Lots of info there [MENTION=134828]Beaumont67[/MENTION] gonna have to follow those links and read up some
I linked the specs of the two WIX XP filters mentioned, seems the only palpable difference here is 1.424" in length - "that's what she said"
I linked the specs of the two WIX XP filters mentioned, seems the only palpable difference here is 1.424" in length - "that's what she said"
Attachments
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TonyB66
New member
Indeed, plenty of reading. Good stuff.
Beaumont67, thanks for bringing-up the Koyo radiator. Has my interest...
With respect to the "lifetime" fuel filter, I read a few accounts here where they'd recommend replacement at 200k miles. I generally like to replace such stuff after flushing gunk through the system anyway (Seafoam treatment). For the price, and what hopefully is an easy job, seemed like a no-brainer at 191k miles... Maybe should have gotten the Toyota one though.
Ok, no K&N. Just ordered a couple of those Amazon specials that you linked to Mike, thanks. I have on my "list" to inspect and clean the TB and MAF. Hopefully tomorrow during a break in my work schedule...
I'll see if I can get a better image of the brake fluid reservoir. I hope it's not cracks. I'll search here to see if this is a common issue...
Oh, the WeatherTechs arrived today. They fit quite well, and look nice also.
When we took the kids out last night, we used the T4R, and two of three rear seat belt receptacles were not catching all that well, one in particular wouldn't work. Not sure if it's a common issue, but I will either try to fix them or see if there are replacements. I also noted that the rear hatch doesn't raise up to the top all by itself as it needs an extra nudge or two. So, I'm guessing that it might be time for new gas lifters, or whatever they are...
Interior and back-up bulbs coming tomorrow, along with the SC2 cable.
Beaumont67, thanks for bringing-up the Koyo radiator. Has my interest...
With respect to the "lifetime" fuel filter, I read a few accounts here where they'd recommend replacement at 200k miles. I generally like to replace such stuff after flushing gunk through the system anyway (Seafoam treatment). For the price, and what hopefully is an easy job, seemed like a no-brainer at 191k miles... Maybe should have gotten the Toyota one though.
Ok, no K&N. Just ordered a couple of those Amazon specials that you linked to Mike, thanks. I have on my "list" to inspect and clean the TB and MAF. Hopefully tomorrow during a break in my work schedule...
I'll see if I can get a better image of the brake fluid reservoir. I hope it's not cracks. I'll search here to see if this is a common issue...
Oh, the WeatherTechs arrived today. They fit quite well, and look nice also.
When we took the kids out last night, we used the T4R, and two of three rear seat belt receptacles were not catching all that well, one in particular wouldn't work. Not sure if it's a common issue, but I will either try to fix them or see if there are replacements. I also noted that the rear hatch doesn't raise up to the top all by itself as it needs an extra nudge or two. So, I'm guessing that it might be time for new gas lifters, or whatever they are...
Interior and back-up bulbs coming tomorrow, along with the SC2 cable.
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Its common to mix up the center belt and the driver size rear receiver. Note the m/f pair marked "center"
Rear liftgate struts are a common fail. Strong Arm struts are quick and easy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030DIRIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0hQ-zbFVC3X40
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Rear liftgate struts are a common fail. Strong Arm struts are quick and easy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030DIRIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0hQ-zbFVC3X40
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
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TonyB66
New member
Ordered (liftgate struts)! Coming Saturday... UPS and FedEx trucks every day.
I will check the seat belts more carefully and hopefully that's all that it is...
Huge help Mike, thanks.
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TonyB66
New member
Back-up lights are nice and bright now. Sort of need to slap the light assemblies outward to get them out, huh? "Talk dirty to me" type of truck I see...
Got the wrong bulbs for the two map lights in the front though. It's the type with the two offset nubs, with a twist to lock. I'll find the right ones. I got the two dome lights done, the ones that activate with the doors, and what a huge difference bright LEDs make! The rear hatch light sometimes doesn't come-on when the door lifts up, so that will need to get sorted-out.
Got the SG2 cable today. I'll get the trany temp set-up tomorrow. Normal for these trucks to have coolant temps in the 200-206 range? It was 204 like 90% of the drive home, on a somewhat cool CA Fall evening, and short drive. I'm accustomed to my other car hanging-out at 181. I'll read-up on our t-stat...
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TonyB66
New member
As stated, I did some reading, and it would seem that my t-stat jiggle valve orientation is the culprit (12 o'clock, but should be at 6, per the FSM).
So, that promise to not wrench on the truck until the house is done... Damn. I know, not much. Is there way to do this without losing much coolant? Whatever I lose, just top it off...
If one needs to basically drain the whole system, coupled with my need for a new radiator, that should ideally get addressed at the same time.
Won't go up to Tahoe, experiencing those grades, with the temps I saw last night.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
That master cylinder is cracked af, but seeing that it doesn't see any pressure I'd say no hurry to replace
My coolant temp is never that high, average high is maybe 192-195. I would wait to do the radiator so you have better access to the thermostat, but running your coolant that high in the winter won't be an issue for you, I'd think.
Get the upper and lower hoses at the same time as well as a new radiator cap and yes, you will drain the whole system, less the block. If the coolant looks good you can strain (cheese cloth or similar) and reuse, or replace with either Toyota Red or Zyrex Asian formula 50/50. Cost either way will be about the same because the Toyota Red is 100% and you need to cut is with distilled water. I resued mine, strained it, and topped off with Zyrex. Purists and pundits will disagree but I'm indifferent to that rhetoric.
The map bulbs are "festoon" type - same as dome and rear cargo area. I used these from superbrightleds.com in those areas and upgraded my map bulbs to LED panels from eBay - turns out those are too bright for my liking.
My coolant temp is never that high, average high is maybe 192-195. I would wait to do the radiator so you have better access to the thermostat, but running your coolant that high in the winter won't be an issue for you, I'd think.
Get the upper and lower hoses at the same time as well as a new radiator cap and yes, you will drain the whole system, less the block. If the coolant looks good you can strain (cheese cloth or similar) and reuse, or replace with either Toyota Red or Zyrex Asian formula 50/50. Cost either way will be about the same because the Toyota Red is 100% and you need to cut is with distilled water. I resued mine, strained it, and topped off with Zyrex. Purists and pundits will disagree but I'm indifferent to that rhetoric.
The map bulbs are "festoon" type - same as dome and rear cargo area. I used these from superbrightleds.com in those areas and upgraded my map bulbs to LED panels from eBay - turns out those are too bright for my liking.
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