Toytec 1" Body Lift
- Thread starter nor_cal51501
- Start date
s20004runner
New member
what is the torque spec for the body mount bolts?
I couldn't find it in the service manual.
can anyone give me measurements for the rag joint?
I did a 1/2 lift and I want to ask a machine shop to see if they can make me one.
thanks.
I couldn't find it in the service manual.
can anyone give me measurements for the rag joint?
I did a 1/2 lift and I want to ask a machine shop to see if they can make me one.
thanks.
Rock_Rat
Senior Member
I just finished installing the 1" ToyTec lift this weekend. It's not so much about the body mount torque in the FSM as it is the grade of the hardware you're using. I used the torque value of the bolt and the Nylock. The closest I could find that matched the ToyTec bolts and nylocks provided was Grade 5, ASTM A449 3/8" galvanized bolt. I went with 40 lbf. I'll re-torque in about 200 miles.
As for the rag joint...couple clicks of the elbow. Actually I went with about 30 lbf. I'll be sending off an email to ToyTec tomorrow. Will follow up with you.
EDIT: [MENTION=44448]ToyTec Lifts[/MENTION] please feel free to chime in here.
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s20004runner
New member
thanks. I was googling and the consensus was 40-50lb ft. So I will torque them to 40. I used the grade 8 3/8 bolts.
nor_cal51501
New member
Great info!
[MENTION=2150]norcal[/MENTION]51501
Question: Did you purchase new body mount bushings or use your stock ones?
Bijan, I used my stock ones. Everything was in really great shape so I didn't feel the need to replace any of the bushings.
RussToy
New member
I have to concur with nor_cal51501...I reused my stock one also. My 4Runner is very clean for be in the rust belt, but still... I thought for sure I was going to have major issues taking the body bolts out. To my surprise each one was almost in new condition...as were my body bushings!!
I've put this mod off for almost a year after buying the kit from ToyTech. I was really dreading the possible fight with rusty bolts and whatnot...I guess just the unknown. But to be very honest...this was one of the easiest mods I've done yet. It took me and my buddy...with the use of air tools and a floor jack...45 mins from start to finish excluding the front bumper. I torqued my bolts at 40lbs using the grade 5 bolts that were included in my "Kit" from ToyTech...after 2-300 miles I'll re-torque all the body bolts again; although, with the nylon-nuts I doubt anything will change.
Very happy with how everything turned out. I'm doing several other projects to my rig other than the BL...but once I get her out on the road, that will be the real test of the BL. My 4Runner drove very nice...and I hope it retained the ride.
Pemrick
New member
aftermarket bumper gaps
Awesome write up! Ive been thinking of doing a 1in bl for some added height and to clear the new wheels. I have aftermarket bumpers and I don't really want the gaping. I know its only and inch but i am a HUGE stickler on gaps and looking good. For the stock front bumper i know about the bracket readjusting, i could try to do that on my current aftermarket. But how would the rear go? Its mounted to the frame instead of the body like the stock one was. Anyone have any advice?
Awesome write up! Ive been thinking of doing a 1in bl for some added height and to clear the new wheels. I have aftermarket bumpers and I don't really want the gaping. I know its only and inch but i am a HUGE stickler on gaps and looking good. For the stock front bumper i know about the bracket readjusting, i could try to do that on my current aftermarket. But how would the rear go? Its mounted to the frame instead of the body like the stock one was. Anyone have any advice?
shootmymime
New member
Take a look at fatpatsbodylifts.com.
The rear bumper will hardly be noticeable that anything has changed for a 1" lift
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Pemrick
New member
Does the kit come with the steering rag joint spacer? And since my vehicle is a manual I wouldnt have to take the auto trans linkage off, but for a manual is there something else i would have to disconnect?
shootmymime
New member
Yes they do come with steering spacers
So the highest you could go is 1" with no modifications for the shifter. If you go higher you will have to trim the base plate of the shifter.
Something like this picture. Or you can upgrade to the short skirt kit from urd.
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shootmymime
New member
Pemrick
New member
Thank you so much man! Can't wait to put it in!
jgue467
Senior Member
Ordered mine last friday. 1.5". I do have one question about the spare.
I read through our lift guide where it had a link (3rd Gen 4Runner Body Lift Installation) suggesting at the end a possible need to modify the spare wheel well because the oem 265/70/16 spare may no longer fit in cases of BL over 1".
Is there any truth to that? I mentions to remove the spare before the BL or the tire may not come out after the lift to make the mod to the wheel well. thanks.
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shootmymime
New member
So the spare will fit. The issue is the guide hole in the back bumper for the crank lowering tools. That will no longer be aligned. So you will have to pull up that black plastic panel in order to remove the spare. Not hard. Just a few clips holding it in.
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Mark_BC
Senior Member
Are there any disadvantages to a body lift? I'm not looking to make a monster truck but I'd like to be able to run 33's. I'm not too keen on a suspension lift because of all the increased wear to the suspension which was designed to run stock at zero lift. A body lift might be a cheap safe way to get the clearance for the tires.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Drivers side done
I can't tell from the photo, but is the radiator attached to the body, or the frame? Does the clearance under the radiator improve with the body lift?
If so, are there fan/shroud issues?
JayRolla
New member
The radiator does not move. Anything over 1" will cause the fan to the the shroud. I just removed the lower portion of the shroud. Its like toyota intended it to be removed when doing a body lift. HAHA.
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