jkeith.w
Official Vendor
wait; the radiator stay where it is but the shroud moves upward? (am I misunderstanding?)
Toytec 1" Body Lift
- Thread starter nor_cal51501
- Start date
wait; the radiator stay where it is but the shroud moves upward? (am I misunderstanding?)
JayRolla
New member
Okay I was wrong and meant radiator moved into fan. It does move. Lol. I had it backwards. That's why some kits include radiator drop brackets.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
ah -but that's awesome for clearance! (thinking bumper/skidplate down the road here.)
Snowden
New member
FWIW & YMMV. I have the 4Crawler 2"BL. I ordered and utilized their radiator drop brackets despite there being comments that you can just remove the bottom shroud under the fan. At 1" perhaps that's fine but I felt at 2" it was too misaligned. The BL made a big difference with my 285's. As my friend says all the time about this stuff; "every inch counts". I have not had to do any pinch weld hammering.
I also ordered and utilized their front bumper lift brackets. And I also ordered his polyurethane bushings while I was at it and was glad I did for the extra $$. All his stuff is plug & play friendly. And he's a super nice guy, I picked mine up directly and he let me pick his brain for over two hours about four wheeling.
For my spare tire I did two things. I run a 255 (much narrower) and I had the spare tire elevator cut, raised 2" and re-welded for $60. Everything works just fine and the spare is tucked up there nicely. Zoom in on first pic and you can see its profile. Yes there are two schools of thought on; a 1/2" diameter spare tire difference (just don't 4X on dry pavement if rolling on it), and a hung spare (I have not drug mine yet).
I also ordered and utilized their front bumper lift brackets. And I also ordered his polyurethane bushings while I was at it and was glad I did for the extra $$. All his stuff is plug & play friendly. And he's a super nice guy, I picked mine up directly and he let me pick his brain for over two hours about four wheeling.
For my spare tire I did two things. I run a 255 (much narrower) and I had the spare tire elevator cut, raised 2" and re-welded for $60. Everything works just fine and the spare is tucked up there nicely. Zoom in on first pic and you can see its profile. Yes there are two schools of thought on; a 1/2" diameter spare tire difference (just don't 4X on dry pavement if rolling on it), and a hung spare (I have not drug mine yet).
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AssBurns
New member
You can always swap to the 4cyl 2.7L or 2.4L radiator from the Tacomas. The 2.4L will actually sit above the bottom of your frame rails. No BL needed.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Tank goes up with body lift also, yes?
(and more clearance for triple sticks, I've read)
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mtbtim
Elite Member
So if I'm understanding this body lift install correctly, nothing was done in regards to the engine fan being lower on the radiator other than removing the lower shroud? Wouldn't this possibly affect the cooling efficiency of the fan with the lower fan shroud removed and the fan sitting lower and not pulling air as evenly through the radiator as before.
Also, is there any issues with the shifting linkages for the transmission and transfer case?
Also, is there any issues with the shifting linkages for the transmission and transfer case?
fourfive
Senior Member
There are radiator drop brackets offered with 4crawler kits to lower the radiator to match the body lift height but the 4crawler site states there shouldn't be any significant changes up to 2-3" radiator to engine fan height difference.
For automatics, up to a 3" body lift should not create any issues with the shifting linkages. Definitely no issues with my 2" lift at least.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Thanks for the response Bro. [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I are doing a body lift for [MENTION=146244]phokingchink[/MENTION] tomorrow and I wanted to understand the job a little better.
fourfive
Senior Member
Cool, look forward to your video. By the way, I never found any torque specs for the body mount bolts in the FSM but 4crawler suggests 20ft/lbs. I talked to Roger Brown about this via email & he confirmed that 20ft/lbs should be sufficient based on the bolt size and older toyota truck FSMs he was referencing. I've read others suggest anywhere from 35-48ft/lbs. I noticed that when I torqued the body mount bolts to 30ft/lbs or more (I experimented with 30, 35, & 48ft/lbs), the washers started to deform. I thought 20ft/lbs was light initially but after my little observation I went with his recommendation & backed everything down to 20ft/lbs.
mtbtim
Elite Member
That's funny you mentioned the torque specs. I was just telling Sean today that I couldn't locate any torque specs for the body mount bolts in the FSM. Thanks for the info.
I did the 1'' body lift on my 98 a 3 months ago. Everything went well. This is a very good write up. The only thing I didnt tough of was the spare tire. I have to do some modification to be able to take it down with the BL. Other than that everything was pretty easy.
Thanks again for the write up!
Thanks again for the write up!
JayRolla
New member
You can lift up the rear bumper cover and lower it. I now just keep my spare in the back.
Yeah, I saw that when I removed my rear bumper. I will probably just do a small hole in the bumper cover to always have an easy acces. I want to leave the spare there to keep all the space in the truck.
JayRolla
New member
Yeah I hate having my tire in the back. Thinking of putting it on the roof. With the body lift if you dont modify it the tire just bounces around because it does not pull it up against the body. So when wheeling its bouncing all over. People always would tell me about that was following me and had to explain it was the body lift. It also was getting hung up on the trail.
I never tough of the tire bouncing around but your right. I will have a look at it. Maybe with only a 1'' body lift its not that bad.
JayRolla
New member
1.5" and it flopped around like a limp...... You get the picture.
WenatcheeSkier
New member
looking to do this soon. Damn good write up!:yo:
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