Tranny Cooler insight for the northwest

M

mendozer

Member
Planning on putting in a B&M 70264 or a 70268. Not sure about size yet. Instinct says go bigger with the 4, but it doesn't get very hot here around Seattle so a 8 might be ok. I drive into the mountains for skiing, hunting, and we take my rig for trips. So I could be driving in 0 degrees on an incline, or a dirt and rocky road in 85 degree heat during deer season. I have a few questions.

1. is it bad to go bigger than needed with the 264?
2. Is it best to go before or after radiator? I saw that Dr Coffee likes afterwards. I'm going inline regardless because I have a new aluminum rad coming so pink milkshakes are not going to happen.
3. Is there any real benefit of installing it on the driver's side other than space around the AC condenser?


thanks!
 
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It's not bad to go with Bigger, depends on your rig and needs.

Both the 264 & 268 have built-in Low-Temp bypass, so overcooling shouldn't be a worry in any case.

I installed mine on the passenger side, hugging the AC condenser. I also bypassed the OEM rad cooler (but if hooking up in series, I would have done pre-rad). For how & what I use my 4runner for, I have never seen my trans temps go above 170, even in 95 degree summer weather here. But I have no armor (not even oem skids) and I almost never haul any substantial weight. I've also never pulled a trailer with it.
 
I live in the Seattle area too with lots of mountain pass and trail driving, especially in winter. Just did it so I don't have any real world experience with how effective it is. I installed the 264 in series before the stock radiator. Figured in cold temps, if it did cool down too much, running it through the radiator cooler would then bring it back up to normal operating temps before going back into trans.
 
I'm in the south west and installed a post-rad cooler mostly following the write up by BFAD http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...oler-transmission-cooler-install-3rd-gen.html

I have found turning of OD makes a big difference in lowering trans temps, especially on long climbs, but the cooler definitely helps in our hotter ambient temps. If I were hardcore wheeling I'd add a cooling fan, like many here have done. Google Ads found this thread for me, to share with you, thanks Chrome http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/66786-transmission-cooler-fan-pics.html

[MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] lists his choices of cooler, fan and parts here but you might not need a fan if you're in zero temps lol
 
From B&M

"Route the transmission fluid through the stock
radiator cooler, then through the supplemental
B&M SuperCooler and then back to the
transmission. This will provide the most efficient
transmission fluid cooling system for your vehicle."
 
I have a couple pointers for you. If you're considering the 70264 do yourself a favor, and get the 70273. Second is do not hang this using the supplied retainers that are meant to be pushed through your radiator, and AC condenser.

I had the 70264, and after about 6 months it started leaking from where the hose slips over the nipple. I replaced the section of tubing, clamps, and all good for another 6 months. After that I replaced it with the 70273 which uses hose barbs into the tubing, and then they thread into the cooler. I've been leak free for a couple years now.

I also learned the hard way that hanging the cooler on the supplied straps from the radiator and AC condenser will wear a hole in the AC condenser.

Just my .02
 
Interesting on the 70273. Same exact size. Maybe it costs less because it doesn't come with all the fittings the 70264 kit does. Also that 264 kit comes with screw in hose barbs, but IDK if the other bars are attached permanently. Looks like the 273 is bare bones. Was that what you meant?

Thanks for the quote for proper placement after the radiator.
 
mendozer said:
Interesting on the 70273. Same exact size. Maybe it costs less because it doesn't come with all the fittings the 70264 kit does. Also that 264 kit comes with screw in hose barbs, but IDK if the other bars are attached permanently. Looks like the 273 is bare bones. Was that what you meant?

Thanks for the quote for proper placement after the radiator.
Click to expand...

The barbs on the 70264 is for the non-cooler end of the hoses. The cooler itself only has non-barbed nipples that fit loosely on the hose.

The 70273 is also just the cooler. You'll need the other parts which aren't very expensive.
 
ah I see now. Also 70273 has 1/2" NPT fittings vs 3/8" like the 70264. Since you bought it bare bones how did you attach it?
 
mendozer said:
ah I see now. Also 70273 has 1/2" NPT fittings vs 3/8" like the 70264. Since you bought it bare bones how did you attach it?
Click to expand...

I just zip tied mine the core support. I was going to cut, and bend some metal but got lazy.

mendozer said:
and regular ole fashioned black hose from Vatozone will work yes?
Click to expand...

I ordered transmission hose from Jegs when I ordered the cooler.
 
mendozer said:
2. Is it best to go before or after radiator? I saw that Dr Coffee likes afterwards. I'm going inline regardless because I have a new aluminum rad coming so pink milkshakes are not going to happen.
3. Is there any real benefit of installing it on the driver's side other than space around the AC condenser?


thanks!
Click to expand...


I have a Hayden but it's mounted before the rad. This was chosen not for any benefit of more cooling but simply because it allowed for the best way to run the lines with my aftermarket bumper.

My Hayden does not have a bypass which the B&M do. My temps are fine as long as it's above 20. Once it gets colder I put a piece of cardboard over the cooler. It often gets above 100 where I live in the summer and this combo keeps my trans below 180 for highway driving. Wheeling it still creeps into the 190's if I am doing really steep pulls and forget to turn the fan on. lol

Once you start the install you'll see why almost everyone has them mounted on the drivers side.
 
nvm i'm seeing 1/2 x 1/2 barb x MPT and think I'll just do that. Jegs has 1/2 inch hose too. Bigger diameter, more FLOW!!!
 
Just realized the 70273 doesn't have the low temp bypass. I'm going to want that for sure. I was literally just about to order it.
 
I have the big TrueCool mounted right of center to the condenser. It's the only place it would fit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I mounted my 70264 on the passenger side, using brackets supplied with the kit, bent and cut to suit. In my case, I found it to be a better fit on the passenger side than the driver side.

I'm not sure I'm understand the concern about the nipples - the rest of the system is full of hoses slipped over nipples. So unless you upgrade the whole system, I don't think the cooler is any more of a weak spot than the other 6-10 connections. It's a pretty low pressure system, and should not leak if the hoses and clamps are properly sized.

 
4Runner4Leon said:
I mounted my 70264 on the passenger side, using brackets supplied with the kit, bent and cut to suit. In my case, I found it to be a better fit on the passenger side than the driver side.

I'm not sure I'm understand the concern about the nipples - the rest of the system is full of hoses slipped over nipples. So unless you upgrade the whole system, I don't think the cooler is any more of a weak spot than the other 6-10 connections. It's a pretty low pressure system, and should not leak if the hoses and clamps are properly sized.

Click to expand...
I agree with Leon re nipples and passenger side for ease of routing and keeping lines shorter.

I used the push through zip-tie mount to the AC condenser core only, which means I had to pull my radiator to install, no biggie, right? Eventually I will replace the condenser core as it's old and haggared anyway, but I'd rather it be closer to the core than farther to get the best pull from the fan.
(notwithstanding there is an 1" plus between the condenser core and the radiator core)

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
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