Tundra TRD springs with Bilstein HDs

So I was looking up info on Trd tundra springs to see if I needed anything besides the springs, 4runner tophats, and 5100 tundra billies.

I found this thread which answered those questions but I remember reading something about the springs rubbing on the spindle or something like that. Does anybody know what I'm talking about and how to avoid that?
 
From what I can tell it depends on the orientation of the springs once assembled in the cool assembly. I know that BFAD and others have covered it in their build threads.
 
I get occasional interaction of spindle and coil...but it's very rare, and only near full droop. New UCAs take care of the problem (see The4kbeast's excellent build thread for more on that).

The LightRacing UCAs are on my short list. Mainly because I want to replace the UBJs anyway...
 
NachoPitt said:
From what I can tell it depends on the orientation of the springs once assembled in the cool assembly. I know that BFAD and others have covered it in their build threads.
Click to expand...

Ok, I looked through his thread and I saw where he installed it and gave the measurements but I didn't see where he addressed the issue. I probably just missed it.

Qyota said:
I get occasional interaction of spindle and coil...but it's very rare, and only near full droop. New UCAs take care of the problem (see The4kbeast's excellent build thread for more on that).

The LightRacing UCAs are on my short list. Mainly because I want to replace the UBJs anyway...
Click to expand...

I already have light racing upper control arms installed...so I guess I don't have anything to worry about then.
 
BFAD- what was your method for turning the coils? Did you use a compressor in-place, or just remove everything, disassemble, turn 180, and reassemble?
 
as far as the spindle hitting the springs, yes its a fair chance of it happening, but its not a super big deal if it does. i tried to install mine with the correct spring rotation so it would not have this issue. i was not able to successfully accomplish this, but i only tried twice and said screw it lol -so dont take me saying i wasnt able to do it as "it cant be done", because thats not what im saying. what i am saying is that for me its not a huge deal, sure they are making some contact, but its only enough to rub off some paint and for me thats not a big deal. i dont feel it, i dont hear it and its not damaging anything.
 
Qyota said:
BFAD- what was your method for turning the coils? Did you use a compressor in-place, or just remove everything, disassemble, turn 180, and reassemble?
Click to expand...

I pulled the assembly, put spring compressors on the coils and compressed them just far enough to take the tension off the top plate, rotated the coils to where I wanted them, released the tension on the coils & removed the spring compressors, and re-installed.

It's not nearly as bad as assembling the coil & shock the first time because the coil is already compressed the majority of they way. It only takes a dozen turns or so on the spring compressors and the tension comes off so you can rotate the coil.

the kid said:
as far as the spindle hitting the springs, yes its a fair chance of it happening, but its not a super big deal if it does. i tried to install mine with the correct spring rotation so it would not have this issue. i was not able to successfully accomplish this, but i only tried twice and said screw it lol -so dont take me saying i wasnt able to do it as "it cant be done", because thats not what im saying. what i am saying is that for me its not a huge deal, sure they are making some contact, but its only enough to rub off some paint and for me thats not a big deal. i dont feel it, i dont hear it and its not damaging anything.
Click to expand...

UMMM... I'm glad that's working out for you.

People, be warned, Mr. Kid is a lucky one. My 5100's are set on the 3rd notch, and when my UBJ/spindle came down on the coil, it would slam it. I could hear a loud clunk/bang everytime the coil and spring would connect.

This happened on virtually any speed bump, on any road with whoops, rough dirt roads with ruts, any time one/both corners of the front end would come off a rock/root/stump/mound.

It was almost constant off road. And now that I've rotated the coils, it's not the spindle that hits the coil, it's the body of the UBJ, which has torn my UBJ boot on one side.

The only real solution is limit straps (which are on the way), and if left alone, I feel it would cause an unsafe condition for the UBJ over the long term... That's a super big deal to me when my Wife & Kiddo are riding along.
 
BFAD I'm definitely going to keep an eye on it but are you aware of anyone with light racing upper control arms having issues?
 
BigFishAllDay said:
UMMM... I'm glad that's working out for you.

People, be warned, Mr. Kid is a lucky one. My 5100's are set on the 3rd notch, and when my UBJ/spindle came down on the coil, it would slam it. I could hear a loud clunk/bang everytime the coil and spring would connect.

This happened on virtually any speed bump, on any road with whoops, rough dirt roads with ruts, any time one/both corners of the front end would come off a rock/root/stump/mound.

It was almost constant off road. And now that I've rotated the coils, it's not the spindle that hits the coil, it's the body of the UBJ, which has torn my UBJ boot on one side.

The only real solution is limit straps (which are on the way), and if left alone, I feel it would cause an unsafe condition for the UBJ over the long term... That's a super big deal to me when my Wife & Kiddo are riding along.
Click to expand...

sorry i was not trying to say that its no big deal... more that it all depends on the orientation of the coil on the strut. for me i got lucky and the rub is only ever so slight, just enough to rub off the paint. i get no clunking or any other sensation (physical or audible). i guess maybe because of my tire/wheel combo i dont have that issue you guys have. -im running the tundra 17s with a 285 and no wheel spacer, so under full drop my tire hits the UCA and prevents it from dropping further. -and for me i only see full drop at low speeds so the tire rubbing is no big deal for me. some may not like this and thats ok. im not at all trying to say that this is acceptable for everyone
 
cj80cruiser said:
BFAD I'm definitely going to keep an eye on it but are you aware of anyone with light racing upper control arms having issues?
Click to expand...

No sir, I am not. However, I haven't seen alot of people running a combination of the two. I'd be interested to hear about this setup as well because my UBJ's will soon need @ minimum a re-boot, @ most a replacement, so it might be a good excuse to upgrade the UCA's.

the kid said:
sorry i was not trying to say that its no big deal... more that it all depends on the orientation of the coil on the strut. for me i got lucky and the rub is only ever so slight, just enough to rub off the paint. i get no clunking or any other sensation (physical or audible). i guess maybe because of my tire/wheel combo i dont have that issue you guys have. -im running the tundra 17s with a 285 and no wheel spacer, so under full drop my tire hits the UCA and prevents it from dropping further. -and for me i only see full drop at low speeds so the tire rubbing is no big deal for me. some may not like this and thats ok. im not at all trying to say that this is acceptable for everyone
Click to expand...

No worries man, I just wanted people to understand that it CAN be a big deal, depending on how bad the interference is between the two parts.

Like you said, there is alot that factors into it besides just the orientation of the spring... In addition to the ones you mentioned:

- Was the UCA bolt loosened & re-torqued after the lift to reset the static position of the UCA bushings?
- Weight of the wheel & tire combo
- The setting of the shock (notch 1-5) and the resulting pre-load on the coil
- Whether or not the front sway bar is installed, and if so whether the bushings are poly or OEM rubber

It's a complicated issue... which is why some experience it, and some don't.
 
so now. is this interference only the the 3rd perch or all? here i am set to do the tundra/5100 thing and i read this. someone please chime in so i avoid this as i don't want to feel/hear contact and noises.
 
a simple fix for that could be grinding off the edge of the UBJ. both [MENTION=67615]Dirtco[/MENTION] and [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] spent a good time discussing this and found the proper coil "clocking" or orientation that eliminated this issue.
 
the kid said:
a simple fix for that could be grinding off the edge of the UBJ. both [MENTION=67615]Dirtco[/MENTION] and [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] spent a good time discussing this and found the proper coil "clocking" or orientation that eliminated this issue.
Click to expand...

what if i just used 99 talls on the 5100's? will that work? what perch can i use to get me level or close to it?
 
im not sure you probably could, i dont see why not. the only issue id see is you probably just wouldnt get as much travel because the coil is not as long as the tundra coil. but if it works on a stock 4runner and all you are changing is the height of the perch then yeah i dont see why that would not work
 
man, i need some certainty on this. since i don't off road and my wife drives it too i don't want noises and such.
 
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