Turns out my 1994 4Runner has a bad rod bearing, among other things

nevada said:
neutral is fine, park is even better.

also, as I said above, go ahead and change the other 4 mains, no reason not to, since you're in there already.

make sure and oil all the bearings good when you put them in, and TORQUE all the caps to spec.
Click to expand...

It's a manual, no park.

I don't get it. I can't get to any mains with the cap in the way. The cap is one piece.

I've got the torque numbers from the FSM and a 2' torque wrench ready to go.
 
brocktice said:
It's a manual, no park.

I don't get it. I can't get to any mains with the cap in the way. The cap is one piece.

I've got the torque numbers from the FSM and a 2' torque wrench ready to go.
Click to expand...

Apologies if I mislead you again, I've never had a 3vze. Under my 22RE are nine caps - one for each piston bearing, and a main bearing cap on each end and between each cylinder. Each cap is a U shape with two bolts - are you saying you've got a single cap covering all the main bearings? And that cap is trapped in by the oil seal flange in the rear and what? in front? Can you remove the rear flange or the timing cover or whatever in front?

It'd be supremely lame if you went to all this trouble and then had to do it all over again. That sort of thing makes a man teach himself new swear words.
 
KidVermicious said:
Apologies if I mislead you again, I've never had a 3vze. ... are you saying you've got a single cap covering all the main bearings? And that cap is trapped in by the oil seal flange in the rear and what? in front? Can you remove the rear flange or the timing cover or whatever in front?
Click to expand...

No worries! I appreciate the help. You are correct, the main bearing cap is one big piece. I'd have to take apart the whole front of the engine to take out the oil pump in front, or drop the transmission in the rear, I think, to get it out.

At this point it will be far less work to just replace the rod bearings, close it up, and run it to see if that takes care of the problem. If not, I'm only out about an hour of work. At that point though I'd probably put it all back together, drive it to a shop to have the AC emptied, and then pull the engine. My new hoist and engine stand are sitting in boxes on the floor, but I appear to be missing one of the hoist hooks on the engine, so I'd have to buy one and install it.
 
brocktice said:
It's a manual, no park.

I don't get it. I can't get to any mains with the cap in the way. The cap is one piece.

I've got the torque numbers from the FSM and a 2' torque wrench ready to go.
Click to expand...
apparently, I was giving you bad info, I apologize. having never been inside a 3.0, I had no idea it used a ONE piece main cap. that's crazy.

brocktice said:
No worries! I appreciate the help. You are correct, the main bearing cap is one big piece. I'd have to take apart the whole front of the engine to take out the oil pump in front, or drop the transmission in the rear, I think, to get it out.

At this point it will be far less work to just replace the rod bearings, close it up, and run it to see if that takes care of the problem. If not, I'm only out about an hour of work. At that point though I'd probably put it all back together, drive it to a shop to have the AC emptied, and then pull the engine. My new hoist and engine stand are sitting in boxes on the floor, but I appear to be missing one of the hoist hooks on the engine, so I'd have to buy one and install it.
Click to expand...

I went back and looked at those pics..
that is very interesting, ive never seen anything like that.

yes, in that case, you cant touch the mains, just do the rods as you planned.
 
Plastigauge and other accessories bought, bearings will be in tomorrow morning!

EDIT: God I hope this thing fires up correctly when I turn the key...
 
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Got two rod bearings in and torqued to spec. Depending on what my wife does this evening (she may have to do some work) I may try to finish after the kids are in bed. Getting those upper bearing halves into the rods properly around the crankshaft is a huge pain. I'm making sure to keep everything squeaky clean and slathered in Lucas assembly oil.
 
WOOHOOOOOO! Fired up and running great. Engine is quieter and oil pressure is fantastic. Now to get that front end put back together (with new ball joints, one new CV axle, and one new wheel stud). At this point I think I (finally) have all of the tools and parts necessary, so that shouldn't be too bad.
 
Front diff back on, that was a hoot. Started working on the ball joints but was getting rather tired, so I'm talking a break. When I go back out, I'll put the CV axles back on and hook up the front propeller shaft, then go back to the various steering knuckle work. Must remember to put gear oil back in the front diff.
 
The DuraLast upper ball joints are giving me a lot of trouble, having a hard time getting the studs in. I may return the one I haven't used and see what my other options are.

EDIT: After reading up on how horrible the AutoZone ball joints are, I ordered some Moogs. Be here Tuesday.
 
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Almost done! Got the drivetrain all hooked back up, steering knuckles back on, hubs back on. Separating the brake rotor from the hub with the broken wheel stud was harder than I expected, but nothing that couldn't be solved with a flathead screwdriver and a hammer. Broken wheel stud replaced.

Just need to put the flanges back on the hubs (after a little more gasket scraping), replace brake pads, put the calipers back on and reconnect the steering to the steering knuckles, and then the wheels.

Oh and put gear oil in the front diff.

Excited but nervous to get it back on the road. We really need the third car which is part of why I bought this vehicle, and it's been on jackstands a LONG time.
 
Oh, question on ball joint cotter pins.

A previous owner used rather small pins on the lower ball joints. I can't get them out. I tried a LOT of things. In the end, the LBJs seemed not bad, so I left them for now. AFAICT I'm going to need a grinder to get them off. Any other ideas?
 
you cant get the cotter pins out because theyre too small?
im confused.

a grinder? what exactly are you working with there? cotter pins are soft, bent or broken easily.


if they are indeed actual cotter pins, and they are stuck.
just clip them as close as possible, enough that you can get the socket on the nut, and unscrew it. it will be hard at first, but will eventually loosen up.
then once the nut is off, just use a small punch or screw driver to drive the pin out of the hole.
replace with new pin.

done.

:D
 
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