UCA Bushings

The lack of a "serviceable" grease zerk on the bushing did seem like a big question mark at first on the JBA's, but at the same time, the stock UCA bushings do not have a zerk either.... so hard for me to be leery of a UCA with no bushing zerks when my truck arrived at the dealership with two installed...

True regarding the stock UCAs; there is no zerk. But we're not talking about stock UCAs designed for stock conditions (ride-heights, travel, wheel/tire combos, etc).
 
So your surprised and confused by my statement. Let me see if I can help you with your confounded state..... The only two aftermarket UCA's that I have researched are SPC and JBA because of their high caster abilities.... I missed the photo that showed the zerk on the OP's bushing (clearly my fault I was multitasking).... my scope of research was limited.. both SPC and JBA do not have a zerk on the bushings ... thus my thoughts and statements...

Still confounded?

Wow.Ok well that explains it, both JBA and SPC use sealed ball joints that require grease. Icon, Total Chaos, Camburg, AllPro, Dirt King etc all use stainless steel uni-balls that you absolutely do not want to grease.
 
From my experience, UCA's that use rubber bushings are not re-greasable unless you drill and add grease fittings yourself (which you wouldn't do unless you were replacing the rubber with polyurethane). UCA's designed to be used with polyurethane bushings usually are tapped for grease fittings. If I had to guess, SPC and JBA use rubber.

Rubber bushings will give a "softer" ride, but aren't very durable and need to be replaced more often. Polyurethane bushings have a harsher feel while driving, but last longer and super easy to maintain. I like pulling my Camburg UCA's off every other oil change or so to clean them up and clean out the old grease.

*EDIT* You don't want to grease rubber bushings by the way. Gear grease will deteriorate the rubber and they will need to be replaced more often.
 
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Wow.Ok well that explains it, both JBA and SPC use sealed ball joints that require grease. Icon, Total Chaos, Camburg, AllPro, Dirt King etc all use stainless steel uni-balls that you absolutely do not want to grease.

Nobody is talking about the balljoints or uniballs :crazy:
 
Wow.Ok well that explains it, both JBA and SPC use sealed ball joints that require grease. Icon, Total Chaos, Camburg, AllPro, Dirt King etc all use stainless steel uni-balls that you absolutely do not want to grease.

Bushings != Ball Joints

Bushings are on the frame side of the UCA. Ball joints are on the spindle side.

This thread is about bushings, not ball joints.
 
From my experience, UCA's that use rubber bushings are not re-greasable unless you drill and add grease fittings yourself (which you wouldn't do unless you were replacing the rubber with polyurethane). UCA's designed to be used with polyurethane bushings usually are tapped for grease fittings. If I had to guess, SPC and JBA use rubber.

Rubber bushings will give a "softer" ride, but aren't very durable and need to be replaced more often. Polyurethane bushings have a harsher feel while driving, but last longer and super easy to maintain. I like pulling my Camburg UCA's off every other oil change or so to clean them up and clean out the old grease.

*EDIT* You don't want to grease rubber bushings by the way. Gear grease will deteriorate the rubber and they will need to be replaced more often.

JBA's are rubber and pre-installed.

So is it safe to say rubber bushings = no zerk and polyurethane = zerk/grease?
 
Thank you for the all the help and suggestions. So I released some of the grease by sticking a pin in the zerks and the bushings didn't go back into place.

Then I jacked the truck up a little and tried to loosen the pivot bolt but it won't budge. I couldn't get much leverage though because the wheel was in the way. I guess I'll have to remove the wheel and try again. I hope I don't have to order the bushing replacement kit from icon.

Also, I reread the icon Install instructions and they say to tighten and torque the pivot bolt before you lower the truck from the jack.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Thank you for the all the help and suggestions. So I released some of the grease by sticking a pin in the zerks and the bushings didn't go back into place.

Then I jacked the truck up a little and tried to loosen the pivot bolt but it won't budge. I couldn't get much leverage though because the wheel was in the way. I guess I'll have to remove the wheel and try again. I hope I don't have to order the bushing replacement kit from icon.

Also, I reread the icon Install instructions and they say to tighten and torque the pivot bolt before you lower the truck from the jack.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The icon instructions make sense because they aren't a OEM style bushing (OEM are "injection molded bushing" or something like that lol) the ICON ones should move freely regardless of when you torque down the bolt, common practice is still to wait on torquing it down till you've put the weight of the truck back on the tires though. Delrin and heim ends are even more free moving joints that really don't need that step.

nevertheless, i think you're gonna be fine. uninstall arms, check bushings and go from there. Everyone and their mom makes bushings, you don't necessarily have to order from ICON. Kartek, Foddrill motorsports and others make them/sell bushings. Its just a bushing, these guys are acting like the world is gonna end:lalala:
 

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