UCA comparison

[Alex T4R]

Here is my story: I bough LR UCA in May 2013. They were installed, but not greased enough so they start squeaking almost right away. I went to Bobby's shop and they showed me that the sleeve was dry and not greased at all. So Bobby and Scot greased them really good and no more squeaking. I have the new bushing with longer sleeves. I drove home for 180 miles and when i came home i heard a strange noise when i press on the break and let go, kind of that my truck leans forward and back and the same going in reverse. Came to figure out that my UCA were shifting back and forth. Bobby called SPC, and we figured out my UCA was a little shorter, so the legs of an "A" were made a little to close to each other. Now SPC is sending me the new UCA. What i learned in this process: You need to make sure that the guy who is installing your UCA knows what he is doing and grease them really good.
P.S. The first mechanics that installed my UCA never worked with those kind before and i was translating the instructions, plus we had old instructions in the box and not new, we would never knew it was updated ones because we never saw others, so no fault at them. Bobby's shop did an amazing job greasing my UCA and getting the squeaky free UCA, but there was no way to realize that my UCA shifts back and forth because we checked the truck and even put it on the incline, no ill affects until after i drove 180 miles and slowly braked on the driveway, that when i heard loud noise.
But i'm pleased with SPC service and everyone's cooperation so for now i'll stick to SPC and then i guess we will see what will happen.

 

[4ShoreRunner]

Yeah....same experience with LR UCAs - failed in less than a year (less than 6 mos maybe?)....LR sent out a brand new arm for free no questions asked but they keep acting surprised when this seems to be happening a lot. Between that and the squeaking I'll probably be upgrading my UCAs when I decide to overhaul my entire front end set up.

 

[Alex T4R]

Yeah....same experience with LR UCAs - failed in less than a year (less than 6 mos maybe?)....LR sent out a brand new arm for free no questions asked but they keep acting surprised when this seems to be happening a lot. Between that and the squeaking I'll probably be upgrading my UCAs when I decide to overhaul my entire front end set up.

When i was over Bobby's and we called SPC you were mentioned in the conversation, because my new upraged version UCA were installed with two washers on each side of the bushing and apparently that what causing the damage. The two washer squeezing the bushing and it breaks, plus they mentioned it only happened with people in hot areas. I know yours broke in Moab and then you drove back to VA. Hopefully the new version won't cause any of those problems, because i really don't wanna gush out a lot of money on Icons UCA.

 

[Stu-Runner]

The progression of my bushings:

1. Squeaking like crazy
2. Silence
3. Coming apart

Uh oh...I just posted today that I was excited because my LR UCA stopped squeaking. Hopefully they are not in number 2...of the breakdown.

Icon makes tubular UCAs which are reasonably priced. Don't have the added camber adjustment of the LR UCAs tho.

Stu

 

[tamerunner]

This is a good thread for those of us still trying to decide on a lift. I heard of aftermarket uca's squeaking and that would drive me bonkers. So I guess my question would be is....do all squeak? Or is it just a matter of greasing regularly?

 

[MadeInMaine]

Do you only have to grease the uni-ball UCAs? Or the connecting arms too...

 

[Stu-Runner]

Do you only have to grease the uni-ball UCAs? Or the connecting arms too...

For the LR UCAs, they have to disasembled to effectively lube. The kit comes with grease to apply on the inside of the rubber bushing before instering the metal sleeves. After install it's pretty tricky to ensure you get them thoroughly lubed again. Several guys have mentioned seeing results using high strength industrial lube after install. I had zerks tapped into my LR UCA because I had read a bunch of threads about squeaking. They are installed in such a way that the outside of the metal sleeve and inside of the rubber bushing get lubed, but no grease can make its way to inside of the metal sleeve. The inside of the metal sleeve is what makes contact with the long bolt, so I imagine that area could squeak also. Sorry...that description is confusing without seeing a schematic. Take a look at the attached LR UCA instructions and hopefully it make more sense.

Stu

 

[phillyd2]

Looks like they have a Bushing Replacement Kit for $ 25 or if you send in yours they will change them for free.

Specialty Products Company | SPC Alignment | The Automotive Alignment Leaders

 

[Ducmonsta]

For the LR UCAs, they have to disasembled to effectively lube. The kit comes with grease to apply on the inside of the rubber bushing before instering the metal sleeves. After install it's pretty tricky to ensure you get them thoroughly lubed again. Several guys have mentioned seeing results using high strength industrial lube after install. I had zerks tapped into my LR UCA because I had read a bunch of threads about squeaking. They are installed in such a way that the outside of the metal sleeve and inside of the rubber bushing get lubed, but no grease can make its way to inside of the metal sleeve. The inside of the metal sleeve is what makes contact with the long bolt, so I imagine that area could squeak also. Sorry...that description is confusing without seeing a schematic. Take a look at the attached LR UCA instructions and hopefully it make more sense.

Stu

You have version 3 of the instructions. Here is the most recent version 4. Which shows the longer, updated sleeve. In the old instructions, they used a small washer to compensate for the sleeve. They needed to do this until they had the longer sleeves manufactured.



SPC's history
Version 1 - Rubber bushings, large washers on all sides (8 washers).
Version 2 - Poly bushings, large washers on all sides (8 washers). These are the ones that fail in high temp climates. The large washers "squeeze" the bushing to the point of collapse. This does not allow the control arm to pivot on the bushing. Effectively, making the control arm bend up and down at the welds.
Version 3 - Poly bushings, 4 large washers, 4 small (2 large washers on the outer most part of control arm, 2 small washers on the inside). This was SPC's solution to an extended sleeve. This does not allow the bushings to be completely compressed by large washers.
Version 4 - Poly bushings, 4 large washers (2 large washers on the outer most part of control arm). In this version the sleeve is longer and is completely butt up against the "tower tube".

Within version 2-3, there was a bushing change over. The newest bushings have the texture of a golf ball. These dimples retain the lube much better than the original ones which were smooth.

Unfortunately, some of us learned at the expensive of our wallets. But I believe these are the best control arms for the money and adjustability. You just have to make sure you've got the latest version (3 or 4). Or if you're like me, I kept the rubber bushing v.1 and installed small washers. This way I don't have to deal with the squeaky poly bushing issue.

 

[4ShoreRunner]

SPC's history
Version 1 - Rubber bushings, large washers on all sides (8 washers).
Version 2 - Poly bushings, large washers on all sides (8 washers). These are the ones that fail in high temp climates. The large washers "squeeze" the bushing to the point of collapse. This does not allow the control arm to pivot on the bushing. Effectively, making the control arm bend up and down at the welds.
Version 3 - Poly bushings, 4 large washers, 4 small (2 large washers on the outer most part of control arm, 2 small washers on the inside). This was SPC's solution to an extended sleeve. This does not allow the bushings to be completely compressed by large washers.
Version 4 - Poly bushings, 4 large washers (2 large washers on the outer most part of control arm). In this version the sleeve is longer and is completely butt up against the "tower tube".

[MENTION=68685]Ducmonsta[/MENTION]

-I'm assuming I have version 3, should I eventually worry about going up to version 4?

 

[cbielat]

I have the Light Racing upper control arms by SPC. My bushings had completely warn over the past months which I recently found out. I had called SPC and told them my issue and the time I had purchased them(from Overland Warehouse). They ended up sending me the latest new bushings free of charge.

 

[Ducmonsta]

[MENTION=68685]Ducmonsta[/MENTION]

-I'm assuming I have version 3, should I eventually worry about going up to version 4?

I'm pretty sure you have version 3. It will be easy to tell by looking and checking to see if there are small washers. These washers can actually be installed on the furthest outside or inside. As long as there isn't pressure on both sides of the bushings.

I wouldn't worry about going to version 4. Maybe if you need to rebuild them in the future. The small washer solution is bascially the same thing.

 

[mikey's2010SR5]

I must have version one with rubber bushings. Been using mine for about 3 years with no problems.

I did just go look and seems like the bushings have dried a little in a small area on one arm. Maybe this winter some ICON ucas will go on.

 

[Stu-Runner]

Wow this is some great information...thanks Ducmonsta

Stu

 

[deekoi]

Wow this is some great information...thanks Ducmonsta

Stu

I couldn't agree more. I have mine on for about 8 months and it squeaked around a couple of times but went away within a day or so. Everything looks to be in order still but I'll keep monitoring.

Thanks everyone for the good info.

 

[McFly2003]

Those of you who have had to replace the bushings in their LR UCA's, I have them on my truck and lately I have noticed an unusual amount of squeaks, creaks and such from them. How did you know it was time to replace the bushings? I am assuming I have the older ones as the original owner had them installed a couple of years ago

 

[Tengu]

Those of you who have had to replace the bushings in their LR UCA's, I have them on my truck and lately I have noticed an unusual amount of squeaks, creaks and such from them. How did you know it was time to replace the bushings? I am assuming I have the older ones as the original owner had them installed a couple of years ago

As an old crusty Marine DI kept telling me, "cheat and read boy, cheat and read."

 

[NorthWest 4R]

My opinion on LR UCA since they first hit the market back when I had an FJ, is that they are nothing more than a factory UCA with more adjustment. They still use a OEM style sealed balljoint no bigger or beefier than OEM. They are cast steel with a tube welded on and do not have any sort of gusset like they should have. They have changed their damn design how many times now ?

Bottom line different products have different purposes. and I would throw these right in the category with a puck or spacer lift. If you are just building a daily driver or LIGHT trail use, they should be fine. For offroading anything mild on up, you need something beefy and actually built for abuse like TC, Camburg,Allpro,ect.

(and that pic of the broken LR UCA posted is just ridiculous)

 

[eddiebx]

My opinion on LR UCA since they first hit the market back when I had an FJ, is that they are nothing more than a factory UCA with more adjustment. They still use a OEM style sealed balljoint no bigger or beefier than OEM. They are cast steel with a tube welded on and do not have any sort of gusset like they should have. They have changed their damn design how many times now ?

Bottom line different products have different purposes. and I would throw these right in the category with a puck or spacer lift. If you are just building a daily driver or LIGHT trail use, they should be fine. For offroading anything mild on up, you need something beefy and actually built for abuse like TC, Camburg,Allpro,ect.

(and that pic of the broken LR UCA posted is just ridiculous)

I think Harper mentioned that the ball joint on the LR was bigger/better and allowed for a bit more down travel? I don't think it's fair to say its just as weak as an OEM UCA. It sure seems a bit stronger than the stamped steel OEM one if you ask me...but I am also no mechanical engineer, so I've really not a clue

 

[4ShoreRunner]

I'm pretty sure you have version 3. It will be easy to tell by looking and checking to see if there are small washers. These washers can actually be installed on the furthest outside or inside. As long as there isn't pressure on both sides of the bushings.

I wouldn't worry about going to version 4. Maybe if you need to rebuild them in the future. The small washer solution is bascially the same thing.

Well...looks like I'm about to have version 4...passenger side snapped. Its at high-tech now. SPC is now replacing BOTH the driver and passenger under warranty with the newest versions. *sigh*

On another note - Bobby, I've been working with Steve who sounds like a new voice - he's been great!