UCA comparison

[KVA]

I am running the Icon tubular UCA and they are fine...no issues. The guys at DMZ fab even stated that the tubular are basically the same as the more expensive version without the makeup...lol. The Icon came highly recommended but is twice the cost of the LR UCAs. I guess given the times it takes to service/R&R the LR's it is justified.

 

[YotaDan]

It is important to use the supplied grease for the Light Racing UCAs, not only on the Inside of the bushing, but also on the sides where the washers come up against the poly. The arms should be able to freely move up and down with minimal resistance.

 

[BigredTEX]

Here are pics of my co-workers Light Racing Arms from his Tacoma. He commutes about 50 miles a day, does no hard core wheeling, only camping trips with his family. He was driving on the freeway when he said there was a strange feeling in the steering wheel, he pulled off to find this:










Light Racing was on the spot with their customer service and sent my buddy out a brand new pair, no questions asked. Good customer service.

After seeing what socal posted, I'm pretty sure I'm not going to bother with replacing the bushings any longer. That is the second set of LR UCAs I've seen, and probably the 5th I've heard about, that have just completely broken like that. Actually, I'm not pretty sure, I'm definitely going to switch.

I just had my passenger side LR UCA fail catastrophically; he tube around the bushing split. 18 months/20K miles. Replaced under warranty, but I will be looking at one of the other manufactures in the near future. Can't afford to have a failure like that again.

 

[Scott@Hightech]

I would strongly encourage EVERYONE with the LightRacing UCA's To figure out which Version they have( see Ducmonsta's post). If you dont have the latest version Contact SPC and get the updated bushing kit and PROPERLY LUBE THEM with the supplied grease. As mentioned in the "TSB" an alignment wont be necessary if the instructions included are followed.

Doing so should prevent These control arms from breaking and causing damage or harm.

 

[4ShoreRunner]

I would strongly encourage EVERYONE with the LightRacing UCA's To figure out which Version they have( see Ducmonsta's post). If you dont have the latest version Contact SPC and get the updated bushing kit and PROPERLY LUBE THEM with the supplied grease. As mentioned in the "TSB" an alignment wont be necessary if the instructions included are followed.

Doing so should prevent These control arms from breaking and causing damage or harm.

I've always been happy to know my ride is in your guys hands - I know its getting done right! Thanks again!

 

[05Rrunner]

Light Racing (SPC) Sure have had a lot of quality issues with these arms. I had a set of the first ones (version 1) with the rubber bushings that fell apart,and had the limited travel upper ball joints.Customer service sent me (Version 2) ball joints to install in my (version 1)arms.(sold that pair). I purchased a new set from metal tech on the group buy this year. They have been ok so far.
p.s : after reading this I ran outside and checked, I think I have Version 4 now.

Maybe version 5 will have thick wall tubing, grease fittings and ....

 

[Jesse1983]

after all these posts I would never purchase Light Racing UCA's. I recall them even having a bad rep when I had my Tacoma.
[MENTION=49537]4ShoreRunner[/MENTION] being that this is your second failure I would contact them and say you don't feel comfortable driving with their equipment on and ask for some money back. this is just ridiculous.

 

[Scott@Hightech]

Although, There have been numerous issues with SPC, they have always addressed the issues, and took care of their customers. Not saying the other companies wouldn't though.

In my personal opinion.
ON A STREET DRIVEN VEHICLE: I would still rather have the LR ucas over any of the Uniball ucas. Uniballs wearout and have to be rebuilt supposedly every year, they seem to last 2-3 years before the slop is excessive. But thats still rebuilding that i feel isnt required with the LR balljoint. Uniballs are typically more noisy as well. And unless you get the highdollar billet Icon UCAs you wont get as good of an alignment with out the LR arms.

ON A TRAIL ONLY/WEEKEND PLAY TRUCK. Go with a TC or MT uniball arm. they flex better, and are likely a lot stronger(no real way to prove this). Things like noise and highway manners are less important than pure performance.

Obviously the Icon Billet UCA is the best of both worlds as the uniball is fairly sealed and they are adjustable and the alignment can be dialed in. But that comes with a $1300 price tag.

 

[Canazes9]

Although, There have been numerous issues with SPC, they have always addressed the issues, and took care of their customers. Not saying the other companies wouldn't though.

In my personal opinion.
ON A STREET DRIVEN VEHICLE: I would still rather have the LR ucas over any of the Uniball ucas. Uniballs wearout and have to be rebuilt supposedly every year, they seem to last 2-3 years before the slop is excessive. But thats still rebuilding that i feel isnt required with the LR balljoint. Uniballs are typically more noisy as well. And unless you get the highdollar billet Icon UCAs you wont get as good of an alignment with out the LR arms.

ON A TRAIL ONLY/WEEKEND PLAY TRUCK. Go with a TC or MT uniball arm. they flex better, and are likely a lot stronger(no real way to prove this). Things like noise and highway manners are less important than pure performance.

Obviously the Icon Billet UCA is the best of both worlds as the uniball is fairly sealed and they are adjustable and the alignment can be dialed in. But that comes with a $1300 price tag.

This post needs its own sticky....

David

 

[ttudesperado]

I think the SPC Light Racing arms are crap. This is my driver side UCA. I would never purchase anything from them again. It broke while i was out in California for school and had it not been for MetalTech4x4 which is where i purchased them from i would have been up creek with out a paddle. The design and quality is crap. Stick with a Uni Ball. They were purchased in 5/12 sat in the box and installed in 12/12 and broke by 5/13.

 

[Stu-Runner]

ICON Tubular UCAs

I am running the Icon tubular UCA and they are fine...no issues. The guys at DMZ fab even stated that the tubular are basically the same as the more expensive version without the makeup...lol. The Icon came highly recommended but is twice the cost of the LR UCAs. I guess given the times it takes to service/R&R the LR's it is justified.

Can you post some pics of yours or the installation directions. Trying to see how they go together. This is the direction I'm leaning. I have the LR UCAs now and its version 2 with the big washers and poly bushings.

I saw pics of the ICONs and it looks like they have a similiar setup. Big washers sandwhiching both sides (inner and outer) of the bushings.

Any issues with yours or alignment problems w/o the added adjustment?

Thanks

 

[Qjake]

I plan on doing the Cambergs with the moot bjs from wheeler offroad. OEM part number ball joints and greese zerks for $530. Or you can get them and press your own in for like $380 + $50 in replacement joints.

Meaning anywhere I'm at in the USA could fix them if needed. No ordering special joints! The grease zerks should eliminate the bushing issues.

Did you ever get these Camburg Arms? How'd they work out for you?

I plan on ordering these as I honestly no longer feel that the LR arms are safe. Also chosing these because of the sealed ball joint, uniballs don't play well with the amount of salt put down on the roads here each winter, hopefully I can get the same caster results as I did with the LR arms...we'll see

 

[thebwlife]

Did you ever get these Camburg Arms? How'd they work out for you?

I plan on ordering these as I honestly no longer feel that the LR arms are safe. Also chosing these because of the sealed ball joint, uniballs don't play well with the amount of salt put down on the roads here each winter, hopefully I can get the same caster results as I did with the LR arms...we'll see

I'm waiting till next spring, but I'm kinda leaning more toward a 275's and bil 5100's at 1.75" - then I'll not need them. I'm building a house and had a few cost over runs that have eaten up my toy budget. But I'll need new tires here this winter so that's what I'm leaning to for now.

If I need some I'll be doing those UCAs. I don't know how no one can see all the benefits I see in them. But lots of people want flashy or they want cheap. These are just in between.

 

[Scott@Hightech]

If I need some I'll be doing those UCAs. I don't know how no one can see all the benefits I see in them. But lots of people want flashy or they want cheap. These are just in between.

I actually don't see that many benefits. What i see is a stronger than stock arm with slightly different geometry. Its still utilizing stock ball joints, so no benefits there. Its not adjustable so you may or may not be able to optimize your alignment.

Given the fact that the Stock UCAs don't fail very often, i really don't see much of a gain.

This of course is my opinion.

 

[thebwlife]

I actually don't see that many benefits. What i see is a stronger than stock arm with slightly different geometry. Its still utilizing stock ball joints, so no benefits there. Its not adjustable so you may or may not be able to optimize your alignment.

Given the fact that the Stock UCAs don't fail very often, i really don't see much of a gain.

This of course is my opinion.

I see the gains as this:

Vs stock: better geometry for lifts, stronger, grease zerks on the bushings, visually nicer looking.

Vs LR: seem to be built better (no breaks reported), stock ball joint is easy to find and is not limited to a single company.

Vs uniball racing style: easy to get stock ball joint, quieter, low mantinece, not as strong (but as you said the stocks don't fail often). But they will have a bit less down travel if using the extended travel C/Os.

Last thing I want to be doing is trapped in a small town like Ouray colorado have a BJ failure and be attempting to source a unique ball joint (LR) or a unique uniball (icon, TC, etc) from California when I could just have one ordered from a normal part store and have within a couple hours.

That's me though I don't need uniball stregth, but do need better alignment geometry.

 

[Scott@Hightech]

Id be interested in seeing how it effects the alignment, most of the uniball arms(camburg included) are not much better than stock arms as far as the alignment goes.

 

[thebwlife]

Id be interested in seeing how it effects the alignment, most of the uniball arms(camburg included) are not much better than stock arms as far as the alignment goes.

I believe I've heard they were manufactured with +2* - which should allow for great alignment specs.

 

[Qjake]

I believe I've heard they were manufactured with +2* - which should allow for great alignment specs.

I also read that the ball joint is angled differently to allow for longer travel and that the Moog ball joint supplied with these arms from Wheelers, [MENTION=87036]YotaDan[/MENTION], also allows more articulation.

I'm certainly going to do some more research before I buy these to be sure that all this is correct and to be sure that this Moog ball joint is readily available.:boink:

Just an FYI on the stock ball joint. I searched around last night trying to find just the OEM upper ball joint that Camburg recommends for these arms without any luck, seems they are only available with the OEM upper control arms which run approx $325.00

[MENTION=99235]Scott@Hightech[/MENTION], I do hear what you are saying and your recommendations will be taken into consideration before I buy. Thanks!

 

[harper7]

Id be interested in seeing how it effects the alignment, most of the uniball arms(camburg included) are not much better than stock arms as far as the alignment goes.

Definitley not the case with Total Chaos uniball UCA's as you can see my alignment down below.Also since they changed to the FK WSSX-16T stainless steel uniballs compared to all the rest with the chrome plated uniballs they have had very little complaints from squeaking. I've had no squeaking or noise from them on my daily driver and close to 20k miles in the last year since I changed to the ss uniballs. Could not be happier with them and super easy to change uniballs and cost about $45 a piece to DIY.
I know the Icons that I helped someone install on his LE had no problem getting over 4 on the caster too.

This was about max caster with the TC's and I could only get a little more with the LR's I had previously.

 

[Scott@Hightech]

Definitley not the case with Total Chaos uniball UCA's as you can see my alignment down below.Also since they changed to the FK WSSX-16T stainless steel uniballs compared to all the rest with the chrome plated uniballs they have had very little complaints from squeaking. I've had no squeaking or noise from them on my daily driver and close to 20k miles in the last year since I changed to the ss uniballs. Could not be happier with them and super easy to change uniballs and cost about $45 a piece to DIY.
I know the Icons that I helped someone install on his LE had no problem getting over 4 on the caster too.

This was about max caster with the TC's and I could only get a little more with the LR's I had previously.

Those are some really good results. Not the experience i have had. maybe updates have been made?