Ultimate camping mod- rear window up / down and hatch pop with ignition off!

You have that correct. As for a cheaper "light" version that is a good idea where it could just have the pop. I see you dont have PMs setup on the site; can you shoot me an email at [email protected] to discuss?

I've managed to keep putting off the purchase myself over time, but would also be interested in a pop-only solution (2020 4Runner w/ remote key)
 
Wireless kit

I just ordered a wireless kit from nytosc. He was very professional, gave me a shipping/tracking number right away, and offered to answer install questions if I need help. Can’t wait to install for spring camping. I’ll post an update when it’s done.

Thanks nytosc!!
 
To all interested in the pop only kit-

This is a great idea. The only issue with it is there isn't much cost savings in removing the up / down switch given I buy these in bulk. I would use the same instructions (slightly modified), wiring would remain the same, same Toyota spare clips, zip ties, 3M taps etc.

That said, I can offer a "light" version for $53 shipped. PM if interested-
 
As many have mentioned [MENTION=165350]nytosc[/MENTION] was quick to answer my (to many) questions even before making my purchase. I went with the three button version after considering the ‘lite’ version. Shipping is quick, responses during install even quicker! For ease of access I installed the buttons in the rear hatch panel above the lights in order to clear a drawer bank/sleeping deck. This also made the installation quick, I would guess it took about an hour including a run to hardware store to get drill bit I thought I had. Buttons are metal and seem very durable, I like that the blend into they panel and are hard to see from the exterior!
 

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Best place for the hatch pop button

I'm getting ready to do the hatch-pop only version of this mod and I'm debating where best to put the button. Anyone who's already done this that has suggestions or regrets?
 
Yes, it's my 1st post, but been lurking on here since last year when I decided to buy and modify a 5th Gen.

Great job on these kits Jesse. He was responsive through email and very quick to ship with tracking. These kits are well put together and thought out. I have zero issues with paying for a product that I need/want that someone has put their work and time into.

Since I didn't find very many videos on this I put 1 together and will post it up this afternoon for anyone interested. It will be a quick install and overview of the product.

This weekend, after editing, I will upload a step by step version as well to help anyone out doing the install that may need a hand. Heck, if you're in AZ I may even help you do the install if you come to me.
 
It's been a while since i updated the thread - I am still selling these and in most cases ship same day

Hello, I'm new to the forums, but am interested in the #2 kit with the extra $ flush button please. What's the best way to go about ordering one for my 2013 SR5?
 
nytosc said:
All 4th and 5th gen 4runners. Note for 2010+ limited along with 2020+ with smart key, operation is slightly different. With the smart key system, it knows when the keys are in the vehicle. Therefore, the window up / down and window lock function do not work when they are in the vehicle.

Personally, I find this a bit cumbersome because of 1) having to workaround the smart key system and 2) there would be times where I would want to control the trunk window without triggering the lock/unlock mechanism. Also, I always have my key fob within reach to take care of the door locks anyways.

If we only want to control the window up/down, we can hook directly into the "Back Door Power Window Regulator Sub–Assembly" and completely bypass the quirks of having to deal with the smart key system (see attachment).

We could connect the window switch as follows:
Window up function: Connector W 10, pin 14 (should be a red wire)
Window down function: Connector W 10, pin 13 (should be a black wire)

For clarity, I've attached the locations of the pins on the W10 connector.

Disclaimer: This works on my 2011 limited, but may be different depending on the year of the 5th gen. Test this by shorting the pins to ground to ensure that you get the desired functionality.
 

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Very interesting and clever! I’ve seen that on the schematic but was concerned that it does not take into account position of the window and it could result in the timing being off.

Does it present any issues when you go all the way up or down? Does it auto stop?
 
Very interesting and clever! I’ve seen that on the schematic but was concerned that it does not take into account position of the window and it could result in the timing being off.

Does it present any issues when you go all the way up or down? Does it auto stop?

That’s a very valid concern, but nope! The window auto stops for me when going all the way up and down. The window timing shouldn’t be a problem because, from my best guess, the window regulator is designed to work independently of the main body ECU. There are two reasons why I believe this:
1. The window regulator doesn’t care about the position of the window. In most automotive window regulator designs, the motor knows when to stop by tripping its own circuit breaker. The circuit breaker is tripped if the motor tries to draw more power, which will only happen if the window is blocked. We can see this behavior even when operating any of the car’s windows in the fully closed position. You’ll hear the window regulator try to move the motor for a short moment, and then stop.
2. The only other control wire into the window regulator is MXP2->LIN and it most likely isn’t used for window position data for normal up/down operations. LIN is a very stripped down version of the CAN BUS which allows for bidirectional data transfer over a single wire. This did have me worried for a second because there is a possibility that this could be sending data back to the Door ECU for window position/stop position to tell it to stop the motor. However, if it was really the case that the window regulator didn’t know how to stop unless it sent a signal back to the door ECU, there wouldn’t be the AUT2->AUT wire for the auto window functionality and we wouldn’t observe the behavior in 1). My best guess is that LIN is used for controlling the window regulator for special functions, such as “all windows rolling down” with remote long press. As to why Toyota didn’t just get rid of the individual wires for up/down/auto window control and just use LIN, I’m guessing it’s for reliability reasons.
 
That’s a very valid concern, but nope! The window auto stops for me when going all the way up and down. The window timing shouldn’t be a problem because, from my best guess, the window regulator is designed to work independently of the main body ECU. There are two reasons why I believe this:
1. The window regulator doesn’t care about the position of the window. In most automotive window regulator designs, the motor knows when to stop by tripping its own circuit breaker. The circuit breaker is tripped if the motor tries to draw more power, which will only happen if the window is blocked. We can see this behavior even when operating any of the car’s windows in the fully closed position. You’ll hear the window regulator try to move the motor for a short moment, and then stop.
2. The only other control wire into the window regulator is MXP2->LIN and it most likely isn’t used for window position data for normal up/down operations. LIN is a very stripped down version of the CAN BUS which allows for bidirectional data transfer over a single wire. This did have me worried for a second because there is a possibility that this could be sending data back to the Door ECU for window position/stop position to tell it to stop the motor. However, if it was really the case that the window regulator didn’t know how to stop unless it sent a signal back to the door ECU, there wouldn’t be the AUT2->AUT wire for the auto window functionality and we wouldn’t observe the behavior in 1). My best guess is that LIN is used for controlling the window regulator for special functions, such as “all windows rolling down” with remote long press. As to why Toyota didn’t just get rid of the individual wires for up/down/auto window control and just use LIN, I’m guessing it’s for reliability reasons.


That is great information, thank you! Is there any chance you could send me an email at [email protected]? I had a further question I'd love to ask if you have 5 minutes.
 

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