wally's 87 4runner upkeep thread
- Thread starter wallytoo
- Start date
wallytoo
Member
so far, so good with the marlin transmission.
on the other ‘87, swapped in some reman’ed calipers, as at least one of the four pistons on each of the originals was frozen. after the swap, i couldn’t get the pedal to feel right. bled the system completely several times to no avail. when my wife got home, i had her pump the pedal while i checked the system; bingo, leaking master cylinder. checked my ‘88 parts runner, and the master cylinders matched. swapped that in today, and now have excellent braking and a good pedal. i might swap in the larger booster from the v6 ‘88, too, but for now red ‘87 is good to go.
odd that in replacing the calipers, the master then failed, as prior to swapping the calipers, i had good pedal and pretty decent brakes, even with the frozen pistons.
on the other ‘87, swapped in some reman’ed calipers, as at least one of the four pistons on each of the originals was frozen. after the swap, i couldn’t get the pedal to feel right. bled the system completely several times to no avail. when my wife got home, i had her pump the pedal while i checked the system; bingo, leaking master cylinder. checked my ‘88 parts runner, and the master cylinders matched. swapped that in today, and now have excellent braking and a good pedal. i might swap in the larger booster from the v6 ‘88, too, but for now red ‘87 is good to go.
odd that in replacing the calipers, the master then failed, as prior to swapping the calipers, i had good pedal and pretty decent brakes, even with the frozen pistons.
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wallytoo
Member
seemed it was about time to find out why the rear speakers didn't work on '87 #2. PO swapped in an aftermarket cd player, and the front speakers work, along with all the other functions of the player/deck. first checked to see that there were speakers in the back, and there are. stock, in the stock rear location.
the install was something of a hack, although at least the PO didn't hack any (that i can find) of the original stereo wiring harness; just hacked the adapter harness. when using jumpers to the rear speakers from the deck wiring, no sound from the back. did a little google, and also remembered that the rear stock speakers have a small amp mounted at each of them.
much of the writeups are erroneous with regard to installing an aftermarket player into the system using the original front & rear speakers. on most new heads, there is a wire labeled "remote power", and most descriptions describe this as for an antenna. it isn't. it's used to power the remote amps, in this case the ones for the rear speakers. using the factory wiring from the amps, i was able to connect to the labeled "remote" wire lead, and.....the rear speakers work. so, after 3 years, i have music in the back, too.
the speakers in '87 #1 have always worked, as it came with the original deck, and i swapped in a later cd/deck from a similar vintage toyota. the deck had identical wiring plugs, etc, so everything worked.
the install was something of a hack, although at least the PO didn't hack any (that i can find) of the original stereo wiring harness; just hacked the adapter harness. when using jumpers to the rear speakers from the deck wiring, no sound from the back. did a little google, and also remembered that the rear stock speakers have a small amp mounted at each of them.
much of the writeups are erroneous with regard to installing an aftermarket player into the system using the original front & rear speakers. on most new heads, there is a wire labeled "remote power", and most descriptions describe this as for an antenna. it isn't. it's used to power the remote amps, in this case the ones for the rear speakers. using the factory wiring from the amps, i was able to connect to the labeled "remote" wire lead, and.....the rear speakers work. so, after 3 years, i have music in the back, too.
the speakers in '87 #1 have always worked, as it came with the original deck, and i swapped in a later cd/deck from a similar vintage toyota. the deck had identical wiring plugs, etc, so everything worked.
wallytoo
Member
the trip odometer on '87 #2 has very faded/flaking numbers; been wanting to fix that since i got it. decided that it might be simple enough to swap the trip meter with the one in my spare-parts '88.
pretty simple, as it turns out. first, need to remove the 5 screws that hold the dash section that covers the gauges, then lift out the dash cover (and unplug any switch wiring - in my case - both cruise and clutch cancel switches). next, remove the 4 screws that hold the speedo/tach/gauge console. gently pull the console outward, then unplug the 3 wiring connectors. once those are unplugged, reach down and release the speedo cable clip from the back of the console. now the entire unit should pop out.
to disassemble the console, first remove the two metal tabs with single screws that are used as attachment points for the dash hood. then, gently push in the 8 tabs (4 top 4 bottom) that hold the "window" to the gauge cluster, and remove the window.
there are two speedo mount screws to remove, and two elecrical contact screws to remove for the speedo unit. once they are out, the unit will easily come out of the pod.
if you haven't already done so, unscrew the trip meter reset knob and remove it. the trip odometer is held to the speedo unit with two small screws on either side of it. the unit pulls outward gently, and now it is free. i swapped in the "clearer, less flaked" trip meter from my spare, and then installed everything. i even reset the trip meter to read the 082.9 miles that were on the swapped out unit (for my gas mileage records). took about 40 minutes to pull both units, and install back in #2 (i didn't put the speedo/gauge assembly back in the parts runner).
pretty simple, as it turns out. first, need to remove the 5 screws that hold the dash section that covers the gauges, then lift out the dash cover (and unplug any switch wiring - in my case - both cruise and clutch cancel switches). next, remove the 4 screws that hold the speedo/tach/gauge console. gently pull the console outward, then unplug the 3 wiring connectors. once those are unplugged, reach down and release the speedo cable clip from the back of the console. now the entire unit should pop out.
to disassemble the console, first remove the two metal tabs with single screws that are used as attachment points for the dash hood. then, gently push in the 8 tabs (4 top 4 bottom) that hold the "window" to the gauge cluster, and remove the window.
there are two speedo mount screws to remove, and two elecrical contact screws to remove for the speedo unit. once they are out, the unit will easily come out of the pod.
if you haven't already done so, unscrew the trip meter reset knob and remove it. the trip odometer is held to the speedo unit with two small screws on either side of it. the unit pulls outward gently, and now it is free. i swapped in the "clearer, less flaked" trip meter from my spare, and then installed everything. i even reset the trip meter to read the 082.9 miles that were on the swapped out unit (for my gas mileage records). took about 40 minutes to pull both units, and install back in #2 (i didn't put the speedo/gauge assembly back in the parts runner).
SomeDay
New member
Do you have pics of this? I'd like to see the rear speaker brakets
My 88 4Rs don't have rear speakers, my idea is to install the front speakers from the spare truck to the other one, if that is possible.
wallytoo
Member
the wing vent windows have been leaking on '87 #2 since i bought it. i attempted to revive the rubber, which was a bit hard, by coating it with fluid film. i used q-tips to apply it to the inner seal areas, and rubbed it all over the exposed rubber portions. also applied the fluid film to the rubber gasket on the lower edge of the glass (between the stainless frame and the glass) inside and out.
supposed to rain a bit over the next few days, so maybe i'll find out if it restored the rubber enough to allow it to stop leaking. the fluid film looks to have been absorbed into the rubber microcracks, as it appears dry about two hours after application.
i also applied it to the upper door seal, as that was hard, too.
supposed to rain a bit over the next few days, so maybe i'll find out if it restored the rubber enough to allow it to stop leaking. the fluid film looks to have been absorbed into the rubber microcracks, as it appears dry about two hours after application.
i also applied it to the upper door seal, as that was hard, too.
wallytoo
Member
finally have rear hydraulic brakes working in #2. the parking brake has worked since purchase, but i discovered that the circuit brakes were not operating in the rear.
i “cracked” connectors along the tubing, and could get some fluid to flow from the LSPV bleeder, and a trickle from either wheel cylinder bleeder, but never could get the rear wheels to lock with just the hydraulics.
disconnected the LSPV arm from the differential and raised it to max height to no effect. lived with it for a while.
finally, disconnected the arm at the valve end, loosened the snap ring holding the rubber boot to the unit, and pulled the arm and boot down off of the LSPV. the pin that is raised and lowered by the arm was frozen in the “down” position, or minimum brake application mode. i used a drift and hammer to tap the pin upwards. then held it there and tested rear brake action. success! fully locked rear wheels upon brake pedal application.
sprayed the valve liberally with fluid film, and reinstalled the arm and boot. the boot is a f*cking terrible design; extremely difficult to correctly reseat it because of the snap ring and tight clearance with the LSPV body.
at least i have fully functional rear brakes now.
brakes have always worked on ‘87 #1.
i “cracked” connectors along the tubing, and could get some fluid to flow from the LSPV bleeder, and a trickle from either wheel cylinder bleeder, but never could get the rear wheels to lock with just the hydraulics.
disconnected the LSPV arm from the differential and raised it to max height to no effect. lived with it for a while.
finally, disconnected the arm at the valve end, loosened the snap ring holding the rubber boot to the unit, and pulled the arm and boot down off of the LSPV. the pin that is raised and lowered by the arm was frozen in the “down” position, or minimum brake application mode. i used a drift and hammer to tap the pin upwards. then held it there and tested rear brake action. success! fully locked rear wheels upon brake pedal application.
sprayed the valve liberally with fluid film, and reinstalled the arm and boot. the boot is a f*cking terrible design; extremely difficult to correctly reseat it because of the snap ring and tight clearance with the LSPV body.
at least i have fully functional rear brakes now.
brakes have always worked on ‘87 #1.
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wallytoo
Member
driving on the interstate a few days ago, the speedometer quit, along with the odometer. the cable broke, which was not a surprise; the surprise was how long it lasted.
when i bought it [the 4runner] in october of 2018, the cable had a sharp kink just after it exits the firewall. i was amazed it even worked, let alone kept working for almost three more years.
this is the bend angle:
close-up of the condition it was in for the whole time:
pulled a bit of the insulation away to show more of the break:
but, since i was near the dealership where i usually buy parts, i stopped in and ordered one. got it the next day:
installed it yesterday - speedo & odo back working again.
when i bought it [the 4runner] in october of 2018, the cable had a sharp kink just after it exits the firewall. i was amazed it even worked, let alone kept working for almost three more years.
this is the bend angle:
close-up of the condition it was in for the whole time:
pulled a bit of the insulation away to show more of the break:
but, since i was near the dealership where i usually buy parts, i stopped in and ordered one. got it the next day:
installed it yesterday - speedo & odo back working again.
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wallytoo
Member
it had a minor bounce, quite rhythmic, almost a clicking. but it basically held steady by what we can perceive (there was movement, but not noticeable while driving).
wallytoo
Member
just got back from a one-week, 2100 mile trip to MI and back to NH. took ‘87 4r #2 (white) with the rebuilt engine and new Marlin Crawler transmission. i was able to pull more hills in 5th than red #1 does.
having working cruise control was nice too. it worked fine from binghamton, ny to MI, and back to binghamton, but wasn’t useful on the stretch between nh and binghamton, as there are too many steep hills for the 22re. i could manually drive and hold 5th on some of those stretches; the vacuum cannot pull the throttle fully open, but my foot can push the pedal to the floor.
i kept it at 67 to 70 for most of the western half, even where the limit is 75 mph in central & northern mi. odometer hit 250,000 miles near schenectady/troy on the return trip.
wing vent windows and the sunroof made the lack of a/c tolerable. averaged almost exactly 23 mpg for the trip. not bad with three adults & gear.
part of the visit in northwest MI:
having working cruise control was nice too. it worked fine from binghamton, ny to MI, and back to binghamton, but wasn’t useful on the stretch between nh and binghamton, as there are too many steep hills for the 22re. i could manually drive and hold 5th on some of those stretches; the vacuum cannot pull the throttle fully open, but my foot can push the pedal to the floor.
i kept it at 67 to 70 for most of the western half, even where the limit is 75 mph in central & northern mi. odometer hit 250,000 miles near schenectady/troy on the return trip.
wing vent windows and the sunroof made the lack of a/c tolerable. averaged almost exactly 23 mpg for the trip. not bad with three adults & gear.
part of the visit in northwest MI:
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RAD4Runner
Senior Member
23 MPG is good! My max is 21MPG on highway.
I also try to stay under 70MPH becoz the 22RE roars to loud. Lol!
I also try to stay under 70MPH becoz the 22RE roars to loud. Lol!
wallytoo
Member
yeah, i'm happy with that. i've had a few tanks avg at just above 24 mpg, where most of my driving was running at between 45 and 55mph for the tank (around 350 miles before fill-up).
best i've done in the red 4r is 21 to 22 mpg. never 24, don't recall 23. and i'm often in 17 to 19 territory. but, it is reliable, and i've driven it across the country and back. for comparison, my two volvo 240s at best push 25 mpg.
wallytoo
Member
when swapping on the 32x11.5 wheels/tires, noticed that the passenger side outer tie rod end was loose (failing, the nut was still tight). ordered a replacement, and installed it the other day. having the pitman arm/tie rod puller makes it a breeze.
took care of the slight wobble, which wasn't noticeable when driving, but could be felt and seen when gripping the tire with it raised with a floor jack.
took care of the slight wobble, which wasn't noticeable when driving, but could be felt and seen when gripping the tire with it raised with a floor jack.
wallytoo
Member
wallytoo
Member
#2 was a NC vehicle up until i bought it in 2018. as such, some of the interior plastic trim was a bit brittle, but complete. the panels on the B-pillar were a good example - not bad, but some minor cracks and tiny pieces broken off.
i removed them a few days ago.
note the upper corners
to replace them, i used the better panels from my '88 parts runner. no breaks or cracks, and nice flush/tight fit.
driver side
passenger side
i removed them a few days ago.
note the upper corners
to replace them, i used the better panels from my '88 parts runner. no breaks or cracks, and nice flush/tight fit.
driver side
passenger side
