Wanda's Anti Rust Journey

The rear is done. I'm working on passenger side but that's nearly done. Next 9s the driver's side then the front. I thourouhly coated the inside of the frame so far.
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The rear is done. I'm working on passenger side but that's nearly done. Next 9s the driver's side then the front. I thourouhly coated the inside of the frame so far.
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It's looking good!!

Just an FYI but it's a bit late maybe for you but I used to work on cement trucks, we had to remove dried concrete, old paint and also rust when maintaining the trucks and when repainting, one of the best tools we used was a needle scaler, they do however need a compressor that can deliver at least 4CFMs for the smaller needle scaler or a air hammer attachment to work well, it will take more CFMs for a bigger needle scaler, but you can get into the tiniest spots with a needle scaler, just imagine 10 or more tiny hardened steel hammers pounding at 4000+/- beats per minute attacking the rust and you can get the idea of how well they will work for this.

You can get a needle scaler attachment for an air hammer or a compact stand alone needle scaler for not much money, you will thank me for getting into the tight spots once you use one if you have a good compressor to operate one.

https://www.google.com/search?q=nee...2.69i57j0l5.7270j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

https://www.harborfreight.com/compact-air-needle-scaler-96997.html


If you have a real good compressor this one will do a heck of a job on rust but needs 10 CFMs to operate well.

https://www.harborfreight.com/Air-Needle-Scaler-61447.html
 
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It's looking good!!

Just an FYI but it's a bit late maybe for you but I used to work on cement trucks, we had to remove dried concrete, old paint and also rust when maintaining the trucks and when repainting, one of the best tools we used was a needle scaler, they do however need a compressor that can deliver at least 4CFMs for the smaller needle scaler or a air hammer attachment to work well, it will take more CFMs for a bigger needle scaler, but you can get into the tiniest spots with a needle scaler, just imagine 10 or more tiny hardened steel hammers pounding at 4000+/- beats per minute attacking the rust and you can get the idea of how well they will work for this.

You can get a needle scaler attachment for an air hammer or a compact stand alone needle scaler for not much money, you will thank me for getting into the tight spots once you use one if you have a good compressor to operate one.

https://www.google.com/search?q=nee...2.69i57j0l5.7270j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

https://www.harborfreight.com/compact-air-needle-scaler-96997.html


If you have a real good compressor this one will do a heck of a job on rust but needs 10 CFMs to operate well.

https://www.harborfreight.com/Air-Needle-Scaler-61447.html
Good to know. I may have to look into that smaller one.

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Just starting the drivers side frame rail. Grinded down and 2 light coats of primer. In only focusing on doing to the cross member right now. Then I'm going to put the rear wheels back on and focus on the front.
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The sides and rear are done. I started on the front. Most of it looks good. The only areas with a decent amount 9r rush is the front support which I didn't start on. Some of my skid plate bolts are being a pain and I don't want to break them so I keep soaking them in penetrating lube. She was dirty. These pictures are after cleanup. My JBA arms were black. Can't remember when I last washed her, probably at the start of college football because I'd take her tailgating.
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You are doing a great job! A couple years ago, I looked under my 2010 and saw so much rust. It took a few full days, but I grinded and sanded all of the visible rust off. Then, sprayed it all down with rust reformer, then primer specific for rusty areas, then black paint and then a clear acrylic. I did multiple coats of each. I did the acrylic because I heard that it would help harden the paint. Who knows?!! To do my best to maintain all of this, I throughly clean the undercarriage and coat all of it with fluid film in the spring and in the fall. I live in Nebraska so the winters aren’t very nice as far as rust goes. After seeing your pictures, I realize I could have done a much better job. I never thought to remove the bumper and get the frame above it. I traded in my 2010 in September for a 2018 Limited and had them undercoat it, rustproof it and even do the paint protection. I know I paid more for the dealer to do it instead of having another shop do all of it, but they gave me a lifetime warranty for the frame and undercarriage and a 6 year warranty for the paint. Also, I purchased it while on vacation in Italy and wanted to be able to just go in sign the papers and be done with it, which worked out great. To get the best price, I was emailing 3 different dealers around me and having them fight against each other, which I learned from this forum getting me $8000 below msrp!! I will continue to clean and fluid film in the spring and fall. I’m petrified of having my frame rust like some of the unrepairable frames I have seen and heard horror stories about. I know someone mentioned Eastwood Internal Frame Spray, which I think I will do. What have you done for protection inside the frame? Any experience with the Eastwood product? Sorry for the novel! But, great work!! I’ve been there so I know it’s tedious, but looking at the final product is very rewarding!!


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You are doing a great job! A couple years ago, I looked under my 2010 and saw so much rust. It took a few full days, but I grinded and sanded all of the visible rust off. Then, sprayed it all down with rust reformer, then primer specific for rusty areas, then black paint and then a clear acrylic. I did multiple coats of each. I did the acrylic because I heard that it would help harden the paint. Who knows?!! To do my best to maintain all of this, I throughly clean the undercarriage and coat all of it with fluid film in the spring and in the fall. I live in Nebraska so the winters aren’t very nice as far as rust goes. After seeing your pictures, I realize I could have done a much better job. I never thought to remove the bumper and get the frame above it. I traded in my 2010 in September for a 2018 Limited and had them undercoat it, rustproof it and even do the paint protection. I know I paid more for the dealer to do it instead of having another shop do all of it, but they gave me a lifetime warranty for the frame and undercarriage and a 6 year warranty for the paint. Also, I purchased it while on vacation in Italy and wanted to be able to just go in sign the papers and be done with it, which worked out great. To get the best price, I was emailing 3 different dealers around me and having them fight against each other, which I learned from this forum getting me $8000 below msrp!! I will continue to clean and fluid film in the spring and fall. I’m petrified of having my frame rust like some of the unrepairable frames I have seen and heard horror stories about. I know someone mentioned Eastwood Internal Frame Spray, which I think I will do. What have you done for protection inside the frame? Any experience with the Eastwood product? Sorry for the novel! But, great work!! I’ve been there so I know it’s tedious, but looking at the final product is very rewarding!!


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My truck is an 06' sport bought it this year for like 18k with 55k miles on it. (v8)

Financially I can only put so much into it. I just want the frame to last 8 solid years and it's likely I will end up getting another one. For 18k, it was the best deal as opposed to buying new or leasing. Gave me everything I wanted in a truck (even over the newer models) and am very happy with this purchase. However, I know I'm going to have to sell her in about 8 years. At that point, assuming I spend 25k (including purchase price) on the vehicle that comes out to 260$ a month. That's before considering I can sell the truck for a couple grand 8 years from now, which if I work on it for a few days every year, will probably happen.

What I'm getting at is, there's no way you'll stop rust forever on your truck (unless you simply don't drive it). You should have a backup plan that makes fiscal sense.

I did basically what you did and will probably have to do this every spring (hopefully it's not as hard as the first time I did it). To make it last 8 more years. Run the numbers but don't shell out too much money into getting it done because it just doesn't make sense.

A few other car guys gave me this same advice. Oh, and since yours is new, I would suggest you try and figure out how to do it yourself. Save money and do a little bit every weekend or every other weekend until you're happy.
 
You are doing a great job! A couple years ago, I looked under my 2010 and saw so much rust. It took a few full days, but I grinded and sanded all of the visible rust off. Then, sprayed it all down with rust reformer, then primer specific for rusty areas, then black paint and then a clear acrylic. I did multiple coats of each. I did the acrylic because I heard that it would help harden the paint. Who knows?!! To do my best to maintain all of this, I throughly clean the undercarriage and coat all of it with fluid film in the spring and in the fall. I live in Nebraska so the winters aren’t very nice as far as rust goes. After seeing your pictures, I realize I could have done a much better job. I never thought to remove the bumper and get the frame above it. I traded in my 2010 in September for a 2018 Limited and had them undercoat it, rustproof it and even do the paint protection. I know I paid more for the dealer to do it instead of having another shop do all of it, but they gave me a lifetime warranty for the frame and undercarriage and a 6 year warranty for the paint. Also, I purchased it while on vacation in Italy and wanted to be able to just go in sign the papers and be done with it, which worked out great. To get the best price, I was emailing 3 different dealers around me and having them fight against each other, which I learned from this forum getting me $8000 below msrp!! I will continue to clean and fluid film in the spring and fall. I’m petrified of having my frame rust like some of the unrepairable frames I have seen and heard horror stories about. I know someone mentioned Eastwood Internal Frame Spray, which I think I will do. What have you done for protection inside the frame? Any experience with the Eastwood product? Sorry for the novel! But, great work!! I’ve been there so I know it’s tedious, but looking at the final product is very rewarding!!


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Unfortunately I couldn't do much for the I ns8de 9f the frame. I bought a nice spray gun that has a 3 or 4 foot hose attachment with a 360 degree sprayer. I shoved that baby into every hole in the frame and gave it a thorough internal coating.
 
Nice work, I did something similar to my 05 to keep it looking new.

I noticed the Fairfield sticker on your runner and live in Central PA also.
 
This write up/progress is awesome, I will be needing to do the same on the 4Runner I'm picking up so it's good to see what all you went through and how you went about it.

I won't say I'm looking forward to doing it, but I'm looking forward to knowing its been done completely and that I shouldn't have major issues for years to come once completed.
 
This write up/progress is awesome, I will be needing to do the same on the 4Runner I'm picking up so it's good to see what all you went through and how you went about it.

I won't say I'm looking forward to doing it, but I'm looking forward to knowing its been done completely and that I shouldn't have major issues for years to come once completed.

I did a lot more work than pictures show. I just didn't take as many pictures as I wanted because I was cold, cranky and covered in rust dust. It wasn't a bad process and it would have been done quicker but I'm a single dad and time is hard to come by. I enjoy the work and Lear in something new. It's not hard just time consuming.
 
Nice work, I did something similar to my 05 to keep it looking new.

I noticed the Fairfield sticker on your runner and live in Central PA also.

I live in the Selinsgrove area. Not a lot of 4runners around that are not limited and driven by soccer mom's.
 
I didn't take many pictures. To do this right I should have taken the front suspension apart to get inside the shock mounts and around the cv's but I didn't have time. Also with my Tapatalk not working right I didn't upload much. I got the front stripped and painted as much as I could. It's drying not then I'm going to coat everything.

Edit forget the pics. My phone won't let me upload in the browser for some reason.
 
I finally quit. I cleaned and painted all I could reach. Then a thick coating of fluid film. I hope it helps, others say it's great. It was a lot of work but I'm glad I did it.
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Wanda

She has never looked better. Nice job. I will be tackling a similar job Spring 2019. You’ve got a new gal for the dance-the new lip stick hides a lot of sin!

Thanks for the review of the process and the thread-will save others time.
 
Looks great! Planning on doing this around spring.

Couple quick questions

How much stuff did you have to unbolt/remove? Both bumpers I would assume.

Did you break many rusty/seized bolts while doing it?

After cleaning with the wheels did you clean the metal with anything else?

What paints did you end up using?
 
Looks great! Planning on doing this around spring.

Couple quick questions

How much stuff did you have to unbolt/remove? Both bumpers I would assume.

Did you break many rusty/seized bolts while doing it?

After cleaning with the wheels did you clean the metal with anything else?

What paints did you end up using?

I only removed the rear bumper, spare tire and skid plates. I would have loved to remove the exhaust to get around the rear suspension better but it's beyond rusted on and I don't have the money for a new exhaust (which I would love). I didn't take off the front bumper, I should have but there are already some broken clips and I didn't want to break it more and not be able to get it back on.

I only had 2 bolts break. One that help the rear brake lines to the axle and one that held the plastic skid plate extension on. I'm not worried about either, the brake line has 4-5 other bolts and the plastic extension I can get back on with a zip tie or just take my lazy ass to the hardware store and get a new bolt because I got it out.

My wheels are plasti-dipped, I didn't do anything with them.

I used rustoleum etching primer and semi gloss paint, I did 2-3 coats each.
 
I just realized I never took any pictures of it coated, just painted. If I feel ambitious I will but I'm cold, cranky and lazy. After I finished this I gave her a good wash. I realized I didn't wash her since the start of college football season. I threw 2 coats of wax on but I really need to strip, claybar and polish.
 
I only removed the rear bumper, spare tire and skid plates. I would have loved to remove the exhaust to get around the rear suspension better but it's beyond rusted on and I don't have the money for a new exhaust (which I would love). I didn't take off the front bumper, I should have but there are already some broken clips and I didn't want to break it more and not be able to get it back on.

I only had 2 bolts break. One that help the rear brake lines to the axle and one that held the plastic skid plate extension on. I'm not worried about either, the brake line has 4-5 other bolts and the plastic extension I can get back on with a zip tie or just take my lazy ass to the hardware store and get a new bolt because I got it out.

My wheels are plasti-dipped, I didn't do anything with them.

I used rustoleum etching primer and semi gloss paint, I did 2-3 coats each.

I meant after you cleaned the frame with the wire wheels did you clean it with anything else prior to painting, like acetone or something.

I've recently had both skids off and had one bolt that was broken, assuming I'll find another somewhere.

Thanks for the info, and your frame looks great now! :dancin:
 

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