Water pump??

[96Blacklimited]

So i am having a overheat problem. While running without driving anywhere the engine take about 20mins too start over heating. I am thinking its a water pump problem and wondering how complicated is it to replace it urself? or how much the work might cost?


95Limited 4x4 3.0

 

[Getsum]

So i am having a overheat problem. While running without driving anywhere the engine take about 20mins too start over heating. I am thinking its a water pump problem and wondering how complicated is it to replace it yourself? or how much the work might cost?


95Limited 4x4 3.0

Why do you assume it's the water pump? What is the water level? Does it lose any...if so...at what what rate per day/week/month? Usually when a water pump goes it will leak as the bearing gets fried...they will sometimes squeal too. If bad, there might be some play in the pulley as well; the water pump is driven by the timing belt and the pulley is almost center front of engine.

Your problem sounds to me like a stuck thermostat (TS). The purpose of this component is to stop the flow of water throughout the engine until it heats up to a predetermined temperature...then it opens, allowing the water to circulate to the radiator for heat exchange. If a TS is bad, it can stick/rust/break in the closed position and doesn't allow the water to circulate after it reaches operating temp. It takes time to do this...thus why your seeing it overheat in about 20 minutes.

As with any problem, you start cheap and easy and work your way to the more expensive/difficult. The TS takes less than 30 minutes to change yourself and costs about $8. The water pump is a bit more involved but is still doable if you have decent mechanical skills. To answer your question directly, a shop will bill you about 3.2 hours labor for the waterpump job (labor anywhere between $40-75 per hour depending upon location). The labor time was determined by my ARRC guide.

After you change out the TS, fill and bleed the system and let the engine heat up with the rad cap off. After the truck reaches normal operating temp look in the rad and see if the water is circulating (flowing)...if it is, you know your water pump is working.

I would NOT be driving this truck until this is fixed; damage to your engine is certain to occur.

Hope this helps!

 

[96Blacklimited]

Why do you assume it's the water pump? What is the water level? Does it lose any...if so...at what what rate per day/week/month? Usually when a water pump goes it will leak as the bearing gets fried...they will sometimes squeal too. If bad, there might be some play in the pulley as well; the water pump is driven by the timing belt and the pulley is almost center front of engine.

Your problem sounds to me like a stuck thermostat (TS). The purpose of this component is to stop the flow of water throughout the engine until it heats up to a predetermined temperature...then it opens, allowing the water to circulate to the radiator for heat exchange. If a TS is bad, it can stick/rust/break in the closed position and doesn't allow the water to circulate after it reaches operating temp. It takes time to do this...thus why your seeing it overheat in about 20 minutes.

As with any problem, you start cheap and easy and work your way to the more expensive/difficult. The TS takes less than 30 minutes to change yourself and costs about $8. The water pump is a bit more involved but is still doable if you have decent mechanical skills. To answer your question directly, a shop will bill you about 3.2 hours labor for the waterpump job (labor anywhere between $40-75 per hour depending upon location). The labor time was determined by my ARRC guide.

After you change out the TS, fill and bleed the system and let the engine heat up with the rad cap off. After the truck reaches normal operating temp look in the rad and see if the water is circulating (flowing)...if it is, you know your water pump is working.

I would NOT be driving this truck until this is fixed; damage to your engine is certain to occur.

Hope this helps!

Thanks for the help bro. So when i bough the truck, is was in need. previous owner did not do any maintenance on it after he bought it and within a few days he blew a head gasket. He got the had gasket work done by a Napa mech and everything seems good, but the radiator was done. Once i got it, i added new radiator, fan clutch, and thermostat but it stills overheat? I though it would be the water pump because everything else checks out. No oil in the coolant; nor is the oil milky in color, so i figure i can rule out head gasket, but it also could be timing. Dono, wat it could be really. just wanna get her on the road.
Truck has 161k and was sitting for 3 years before the previous owner bough it.

 

[SlowYourRoll]

Thanks for the help bro. So when i bough the truck, is was in need. previous owner did not do any maintenance on it after he bought it and within a few days he blew a head gasket. He got the had gasket work done by a Napa mech and everything seems good, but the radiator was done. Once i got it, i added new radiator, fan clutch, and thermostat but it stills overheat? I though it would be the water pump because everything else checks out. No oil in the coolant; nor is the oil milky in color, so i figure i can rule out head gasket, but it also could be timing. Dono, wat it could be really. just wanna get her on the road.
Truck has 161k and was sitting for 3 years before the previous owner bough it.

NAPA brand thermostats in the 3vze are no good. Buy a TOYOTA thermostat, I believe it is a 180 degree. The NAPA ones don't have the jiggle valve.

 

[96Blacklimited]

NAPA brand thermostats in the 3vze are no good. Buy a TOYOTA thermostat, I believe it is a 180 degree. The NAPA ones don't have the jiggle valve.

No. The mechanic was a NAPA cert tech. The thermostat i bough was from advance auto, it did not have a juggle valve either. But i also have a 96Limited that overheated on me so i did the same thing. Change radiator, coolant (red) and replaced the thermostat (no jiggle valve) and not it runs like a champ.

Is there any other problems that might make the truck run hot???
plz the 95 is my off-roader and my girl killing me but it not running.

 

[SlowYourRoll]

I would still put in a new toyota therm. The 3.0 and 3.4 are not the same, 3.4 may work with generic therm., but from experience the 3.0 does not as well.

 

[96Blacklimited]

I would still put in a new toyota therm. The 3.0 and 3.4 are not the same, 3.4 may work with generic therm., but from experience the 3.0 does not as well.

Ok. I know the 96 an 95 are different. I didn't think that the jiggle valve could mess it up though. Don't matter i get one and see if that works. but thanks for ur help man. i let you know out come soon

 

[Brand X]

Fan clutch, check it out.

 

[96Blacklimited]

Fan clutch, check it out.

Yeah dude i already put a brand new one in as well. I act drove it too the shop and Mech. told me everything checks out and the only thing he could think of is a water pump or bad TS. I just gonna get a Toyota TS first before i star looking into water pump work because he quoted me @ $600 for water pump work.

 

[4runnerkucool]

Hi 96Blacklimited, any good (thermostat)/ news, hopefully? Because right now my car 93 v6 70K act the same thing like yours. First my mechanic suspected the head gasket but there is no oil evidence in the radiator or vice versa at all (and no bubble too) then I went to different mechanic, he said the fan clutch bad, I changed it but still the same (overheating after 20-30 minutes drived), now he suspects the water pump. I replaced the thermostat (PepBoys/Stat brand) it is $9 thing. but no luck. Please give me update...

 

[90toytruck.]

is the water circulating when the t stat opens?

 

[SlowYourRoll]

NAPA brand thermostats in the 3vze are no good. Buy a TOYOTA thermostat, I believe it is a 180 degree. The NAPA ones don't have the jiggle valve.

I stand by my case, from experience. Put in a Toyota thermostat.:flamethrwoer2:

 

[4runnerkucool]

$ 30 thermostat vs $500 ( w pump+timing belt thingy) indeed the winner is $ 30. I will order now. I promise will put the update here because I see there are some have same problems.

 

[4runnerkucool]

is the water circulating when the t stat opens?

I think, because when the engine is in normal temp then I pull the acceleration cable, I see there was a "wave" in the radiator.

 

[90toytruck.]

I think, because when the engine is in normal temp then I pull the acceleration cable, I see there was a "wave" in the radiator.

if the t stat is opening and the water pump is pumping the water will circulate thru the radiator and should be visable to the eye without reving the motor up

 

[4runnerkucool]

$ 30 thermostat vs $500 ( w pump+timing belt thingy) indeed the winner is $ 30. I will order now. I promise will put the update here because I see there are some have same problems.

I told my mechanic to pull my Stant/stat (i dont remember exactly) thermostat while Iam waiting my genuine toyota therm, the car backs 100% normal without any overheating problem at all. the one that make me very curious is the temp doesnt show a Low temp At all. It is on the normal range/spot (the needle on the very slightly less than half).

I suspect my mechanic found something very easy to "fix" then he didnt tell me about it because he is worried that I will demand my money back for replacing the fan clutch that has nothing to do with the problem (in this case). btw, I am happy. I will try again today on highway. I will update.

 

[calinaki]

I would still put in a new toyota therm. The 3.0 and 3.4 are not the same, 3.4 may work with generic therm., but from experience the 3.0 does not as well.

Question on the thermostat placement for the 3vZE: I always thought that the thermostat opened and then allowed flow through it in the direction of the radiator. However, I heard that the flow from the engine is into the top of the radiator and then the cooler fluid is out the bottom of the radiator to the thermostat. So my question is, how does the thermostat "sense" the hot temperature if it's in contact with the 'cooled' flow off the bottom of the radiator? The jiggle valve would also allow a small amount of flow from the bottom of the radiator, through the tstat to the opposite side of the tstat. Am I thinking about this correctly??? THanks for any clarity! I can't find a flow path anywhere for this cooling system.

 

[helo-mech]

Here you go man. The "sensing" portion of the thermostat is in contact with the coolant already present in the engine water jacket. When it reaches the opening temp of the t-stat it allows cooler coolant to flow to the water pump. The inlet for the engine cooling comes from the bottom of the radiator, thru the t-stat, thru the water pump, thru the engine water jackets and back to the radiator from the top. With is being a pressurized system if you close it off at any point the flow stops.

 

[SUBTEGRAL]

They should create an engine which doesn't require a cooling system at all.

 

[calinaki]

Thanks Helo-Mech!!! Just what I needed. I've been having some overheating issues myself but never saw any signs of head gasket so I've been changing everything else out. Just today I decided to look under the oil cap one last time and BAM! --white gunky crap. Welp. With 200k on the ol' motor, guess I need to decide if i'm better off to just replace the engine. The rest of the rig is in great shape and I'd like to drive 'er for many more years. do you guys have any idea how hard it is to swap an engine? I found some online "new" or rebuilt or whatever. They say they use steel head gaskets now so no issues with them blowing. They also bored the engine out 20 over (that's what they said but not sure what that means--20 mm in diameter or something?) Don't know if that's a big deal or not if the bored out larger cylinder would mean that I now need to upgrade a bunch of other crap to get everything to work together.