Wear and Tear Friendly lifts

[Clemson]

Is there a term for lifts that try not to compromise on-road performance (within reason), truck components (CV joints, Tranny, etc) and just general need of maintenance? I'm searching with no luck.

I know this has to be covered somewhere. I have uncovered tidbits here and there when lift experts are spouting the negatives of big lifts.

I love lifted trucks. But I need a generalist. I'll spend more time on road than off. The general idea I am coming across is a 2" suspension lift with 265/75/R16 tires. I have seen some threads where guys are saying they try not to deviate too far from stock because of the headaches involved.

 

[Tatonka]

I'm running just such a setup for similar reasons. Don't know about a specific term other than mildly lifted. I view my setup as more of a suspension upgrade as opposed to a lift although I did gain about 2". Old man Emu 906 rear springs, Bilstein 5100 shocks all round, toytec ultimate /adjustable coilovers up front. RCI aluminum skids underneath since I'm not raised much but wanted to protect my undercarriage w/o adding a ton of weight. Nothing else is needed to compensate for such little lift so highway performance is not impacted and if anything the ride is improved. Running the 265 75 r16 Cooper ST MAXX took about 1mpg off but I'm still pulling close to 18+ on the highway and 16 local.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JayRolla]

Is there a term for lifts that try not to compromise on-road performance (within reason), truck components (CV joints, Tranny, etc) and just general need of maintenance? I'm searching with no luck.

I know this has to be covered somewhere. I have uncovered tidbits here and there when lift experts are spouting the negatives of big lifts.

I love lifted trucks. But I need a generalist. I'll spend more time on road than off. The general idea I am coming across is a 2" suspension lift with 265/75/R16 tires. I have seen some threads where guys are saying they try not to deviate too far from stock because of the headaches involved.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/197591-absaloms-cookie-cutter-4runner-builds.html

Read Read and Read.

If it was me I would do OEM 99 coils and shocks or Billys if you really want those instead of OEM shocks.

 

[acwilliams94]

That about what I did too. 5100's all around with the Toytec Ultimate Kit upfront and stock springs in rear. Gave me +2 front and +1 rear which leveled mine out. I am running stock tires for now getting 22 (65-70mph) to 26 (50-60 mph) on the highway.

 

[Clemson]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/197591-absaloms-cookie-cutter-4runner-builds.html

Read Read and Read.

If it was me I would do OEM 99 coils and shocks or Billys if you really want those instead of OEM shocks.

Thanks!

 

[Clemson]

In regards to Absalom's thread. Slightly off topic.

If I completed the DD/weekend warrior pavement build. What kind of cost would I be looking at? Rough estimate with labor. I hate to ask that question, but hopefully one of you have completed a similar build. I don't want to get raped by a mechanic.

Here are the items he recommends replacing:

New OEM lower ball joints
New OEM radiator
New OEM inner and outer tie rods
New OEM upper and lower control arm bushings
Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
Brake fluid
Engine oil
Power steering fluid
Differential fluid
Coolant flush
Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
New OEM sway bar links front and rear
New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
New OEM 99 Tall Coils front and rear
New OEM Shocks/Struts

 

[JayRolla]

In regards to Absalom's thread. Slightly off topic.

If I completed the DD/weekend warrior pavement build. What kind of cost would I be looking at? Rough estimate with labor. I hate to ask that question, but hopefully one of you have completed a similar build. I don't want to get raped by a mechanic.

Here are the items he recommends replacing:

New OEM lower ball joints
New OEM radiator
New OEM inner and outer tie rods
New OEM upper and lower control arm bushings
Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
Brake fluid
Engine oil
Power steering fluid
Differential fluid
Coolant flush
Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
New OEM sway bar links front and rear
New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
New OEM 99 Tall Coils front and rear
New OEM Shocks/Struts

I would not replace everything if its not needed. If you dont wheel that much the current parts may be okay.

I would do these parts in your list.

LBJ's
Outer tie rods
Radiator.

Reuse the sway bar links if in good condition. Get new OEM bushings if they are needed for the links but the stockers should work on a small lift and not much wheeling.

I would also not swap the control arm bushings unless needed, have them inspected.

Go here to get OEM part prices, they are one of the best around.
https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/p...=direct&utm_campaign=camelbacktoyotaparts.com

 

[Tyler James Inc]

I love my '99 Tall front springs with the 5-way height adjustable perch Bilsteins. I'm on the 3rd perch of 5, and think I am at about 2.25" lift. Rides and handles awesome.
The rear is Superflex coils(3.5" lift without the in-coil bump stops/coil isolators), and they also ride and handle awesome with 5100 Bilstein shocks.

Looks like less lift than that(~2.25" & 3.5"), but that what it measures out as.

 

[phattyduck]

In regards to Absalom's thread. Slightly off topic.

If I completed the DD/weekend warrior pavement build. What kind of cost would I be looking at? Rough estimate with labor. I hate to ask that question, but hopefully one of you have completed a similar build. I don't want to get raped by a mechanic.

Most of us here do the work ourselves... (other than alignments or things that take expensive special tools)

You should start with learning fluids yourself. Oil change, coolant/radiator change, etc. I can understand if you don't want to do the timing belt, etc. The time working on your truck will help you know exactly what shape it is in and keep you from getting overcharged when you do have to use a mechanic, since you will know what is going on.

Your location will help when it comes to prices. Also, your location will help when it comes to what needs replacement - a rust free truck is much different than a rusty truck!

-Charlie

 

[BrandonF]

I love my '99 Tall front springs with the 5-way height adjustable perch Bilsteins. I'm on the 3rd perch of 5, and think I am at about 2.25" lift. Rides and handles awesome.
The rear is Superflex coils(3.5" lift without the in-coil bump stops/coil isolators), and they also ride and handle awesome with 5100 Bilstein shocks.

Looks like less lift than that(~2.25" & 3.5"), but that what it measures out as.

Ugh I remember when my 4runner looked that clean... when the sun hits mine right, it looks more like a raisin than a 4runner.

 

[reelamin]

I love lifted trucks. But I need a generalist. I'll spend more time on road than off. The general idea I am coming across is a 2" suspension lift with 265/75/R16 tires. I have seen some threads where guys are saying they try not to deviate too far from stock because of the headaches involved.[/QUOTE]

Things are so hard to discern because we all have our interpretation of what people want. My interpretation is you want it to look like but doesnt have to be actually able to. I know for a fact the major majority of people fall into this area of they are honest with their vehicle use.


Personally....I am a firm believer in leaving things as original as possible for 99% of things. The vast majority of the time the original design is the most durable and longest lasting. Its not a Toyota thing...its an engineering thing.

I am just about done with my lift situation caused by an absolute need around my parameters. I actually sat down and documented my exact use, needs, and reality not my fantasy of what I needed and why.

I will have a big summary at the end on what I found out. I should have it completed in about 2-3 weeks. Basically not spend a lot of money/modifications getting me clearance around a set of tires with the least amount of suspension modifications as I could. I learned a LOT, would repeat some things, spent more money than needed, would not have done some things, and in the end have what I have.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/231646-minimalist-265-75-16-tire-clearance-solution.html

Sure you can find (Ebay, Flea Bay, Joes Import, etc) Chinese Knock Offs and other junk with the same label, but I'm talking actual branded items. Basically if you want to do any kind of full suspension lift/upgrade with new parts you will spend $400 minimum to get the least expensive decent quality parts. The top end is how much do you want to spend.

I know you could get the clearance/lift you wanted for $150 bucks and a six pack....simple a 2" body lift and it's done in a few hours. The price goes up from there.

 

[JayRolla]

[MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION]. His goal is 2" lift front and rear with no chance of causing wear and tear on other components. He would need a lot more than just springs and coils if he goes with 3"+ rear lift.

Of coarse if he wanted to really lift his rig I would have suggested 99's up front with billies and 7 wrap LC coils out back. LC coils handle weight better and dont stack (coils slap) under compression.

 

[MtnT4R]

Someone correct me if I'm way off base here, but up to a 3" lift- a diff drop is a MUST- you aren't changing the angles enough to increase wear and tear significantly.

Where you start seeing issues is when you run a larger(heavier) tire. The front end components were not designed to handle beefy tires day after day and hit the same life expectancy of a stock configuration.

I run the OME 3" lift with stock tires and personally think it looks great and it drives much better than before, while my mpgs are still 19+ on summer blend fuel. To step up to a 32"ish tire I'd go skinnier(255/75 or even 235/85) to keep the rotational weight and tire mass as close to stock as possible.

 

[reelamin]

Someone correct me if I'm way off base here, but up to a 3" lift- a diff drop is a MUST- you aren't changing the angles enough to increase wear and tear significantly.

You are corrected....very subjective, opinions vary, results very, etc. on the Diff Drop. I STRONGLY SUGGEST THE OP DO A LOT OF SEARCHING AND READING ON HIS WANTS.

Personally...I have a 1" drop I will install with my 1" front lift. The original angle was there for a reason.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

[MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION]. His goal is 2" lift front and rear with no chance of causing wear and tear on other components. He would need a lot more than just springs and coils if he goes with 3"+ rear lift.

Okay? I'm not sure what your point is here. What do you mean "he would need a lot more than just springs and coils if he goes with a 3" rear lift"? All I have is coils/shocks/ph brackets, and I have no issues or complaints at all.

Of coarse if he wanted to really lift his rig I would have suggested 99's up front with billies and 7 wrap LC coils out back. LC coils handle weight better and dont stack (coils slap) under compression.

Mine don't slap, and are FAR softer than the LC coils. You can get the same coils in a 3", and- since most 4R sag- the 3" rear lift is probably what he would want with a 2" front anyway. He never said he wanted a lift that handles significant rear weight, BTW [emoji6]

 

[johnbyebye]

I love my '99 Tall front springs with the 5-way height adjustable perch Bilsteins. I'm on the 3rd perch of 5, and think I am at about 2.25" lift. Rides and handles awesome.
The rear is Superflex coils(3.5" lift without the in-coil bump stops/coil isolators), and they also ride and handle awesome with 5100 Bilstein shocks.
Looks like less lift than that(~2.25" & 3.5"), but that what it measures out as.

In another thread I read some time ago, someone had said that all 99+ 4runners with the 16" wheel option already had the tall springs. Is this true? I am wanting to use the '99 springs on my 4runner but I have 16" wheels. If that is true I'm not really gaining any lift. Can someone weigh in on this?

Edit: I posted in the wrong thread. Lol. Sorry.

 

[JayRolla]

Okay? I'm not sure what your point is here. What do you mean "he would need a lot more than just springs and coils if he goes with a 3" rear lift"? All I have is coils/shocks/ph brackets, and I have no issues or complaints at all.


Mine don't slap, and are FAR softer than the LC coils. You can get the same coils in a 3", and- since most 4R sag- the 3" rear lift is probably what he would want with a 2" front anyway. He never said he wanted a lift that handles significant rear weight, BTW [emoji6]

My point was he said he wanted 2" lift and when you go over this components tend to wear out more off and on the road. Once you go to 3" rear lift and start to use it the rear control arm bushings wear out quickly, panhard bushings wear out, panhard is angled, rear axle is off center, rear brake line needs bent down or replaced, ebrake line stretches, sway bar links angle, sway bar can benefit from being relocated, driveshaft zerk can sheer, driveshaft contact on gas tank. All this can happen when lifted 3"+. If you stay on a 2" or under lift you can use it on and offroad without any of these issues.

Superflex are known to slap, entire threads on this. They also dont handle minor weight, some have added just a few hundred pounds to have them sag pretty bad.