wfo9
New member
So how did you torque it to spec going back on. My guess is you just got it close enough with the impact.. which is probably fine....
WFO9 Supercharger Install and results thread
- Thread starter wfo9
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So how did you torque it to spec going back on. My guess is you just got it close enough with the impact.. which is probably fine....
How about the additives to increase the fuels octane? Would be a mild pain but also wouldn’t be a regular thing.
wfo9
New member
A little more info on the kit and blower...
Attached is a picture of the meat of the blower. This includes the compressor itself and the charged air cooler/intake all in what is basically one piece.
The actuator with the yellow sticker on the front is the bypass valve. This closes to produce boost. Otherwise it just recirculates air back into the inlet side by opening a butterfly valve.
The blue tape on the front is where the throttle body goes.
The two ports with blue tape on the back are where coolant goes in and out of the water->air cooler.
It is a very well thought out compact design.
Some other interesting facts.
- The stock fuel injectors, MAF, and all sensors are retained
- The park splugs are replaced with a cooler plug and smaller gap
- The blower itself runs on it's own belt, tensioner... all existing accessories continue to run on the stock belt/pulley system...
- The pump that circulates coolant to and from the heat exchanger up front is electric, bosch
- The blower itself is oiled internally. No external oil source or oil change is needed (although I think there may be a way to service the compressor after about 90k miles that includes new oil.. I'm not clear on this yet)
- The blower crank pulley is slightly underdriven compared to the crank pulley
- The actual compressor pulley seems to be 2.4"
Attached is a picture of the meat of the blower. This includes the compressor itself and the charged air cooler/intake all in what is basically one piece.
The actuator with the yellow sticker on the front is the bypass valve. This closes to produce boost. Otherwise it just recirculates air back into the inlet side by opening a butterfly valve.
The blue tape on the front is where the throttle body goes.
The two ports with blue tape on the back are where coolant goes in and out of the water->air cooler.
It is a very well thought out compact design.
Some other interesting facts.
- The stock fuel injectors, MAF, and all sensors are retained
- The park splugs are replaced with a cooler plug and smaller gap
- The blower itself runs on it's own belt, tensioner... all existing accessories continue to run on the stock belt/pulley system...
- The pump that circulates coolant to and from the heat exchanger up front is electric, bosch
- The blower itself is oiled internally. No external oil source or oil change is needed (although I think there may be a way to service the compressor after about 90k miles that includes new oil.. I'm not clear on this yet)
- The blower crank pulley is slightly underdriven compared to the crank pulley
- The actual compressor pulley seems to be 2.4"
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Hm. Worked fine on my 3rd gen. Is the 5th gen torqued down that much more?
wfo9
New member
IDK.. I just would not trust a chain wrench on my crank pulley (too much damage potential). It took almost everything I had with a 4ft cheater pipe... so it was on there... I think some monster impact guns could probably do it without something to lock it..., but holding with pure friction (like a chain wrench) just seems problematic to me.
The simplest way is usually the starter and a cheater bar on the frame. but I'm not sure I would try it on this one. .Might shatter something. However I do that on my 22re all the time with no issues.
I saw somewhere that is set at 290ft/lbs from the factory. Not sure how accurate that is, but it was on there good....A very strong electric impact would clearly be the place to start if you have access to one.... but it still has to go back on.
themuffinman619
New member
I installed an oil catch can on my 4th gen and was surprised on how much oil it “caught”
Most places I read that N/A wouldn’t benefit from it. I guess the proof is in the pudding.
Argyle Edison
Member
I have a Moroso catch cam on my supercharged tundra. It’s a must do imho.
wfo9
New member
I already have one on the truck I think you may be able to see it in a few of the pictures in the earlier posts over by the drivers side fender (which may need to move since that is where the intercooler reservoir mounts with the kit) .. It helps for sure.. but it can't get it all. I put it on about 10k miles ago. Truck has 70k on it.
Even with 0 blowby (which is impossible on a modern engine) you will still get circulation via the PCV. It is expected..The main downside of the oil in the intake is carbon buildup in the chamber and effective octane deterioration in high airflow scenarios where the oil gets pushed down into the cylinders and contaminates the fuel.
Attached is a picture of the actual head ports that I took before I cleaned them. The crud was not wet at all.. it was more sticky and stringy than anything else. Especially into the head vs up higher in the intake. Cleaned up pretty easy, but was also a bit glue like. A bit more baked on one side of each port (figured it was related to how the water jackets are configured or how the VVTI works).
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minorobsession
New member
Can't wait to see the outcome! I'd love more power in our 16 SR5. Great step by step. Thank you!
Jetboy
New member
As far as the bypass valve goes - is it default spring open or spring closed? The reason I'm curious is relates to the situation where you do find yourself with only low octane fuel. Could you do something as simple as put a ball valve inline on the vacuum tube to effectively "turn off" the supercharger while you run low octane fuel? I was assuming it's default closed so high manifold vacuum means it's in bypass mode and low manifold vacuum results in closed butterfly - high boost. Would that harm anything? Is the ECU tune capable of handling that unexpected scenario? In the alternative could you put some other option like a simple spacer block that holds the butterfly open to accomplish the same outcome? Might make an easy, simple, and reliable option for the circumstance where you want to bypass the boost for a temporary time.
I'm probably not the target buyer - but I appreciate the build thread on this. I can't help but be intrigued by the idea of the additional power.
I'm probably not the target buyer - but I appreciate the build thread on this. I can't help but be intrigued by the idea of the additional power.
This makes me think of some sort of Mad Max switch to electrically open and close the butterfly valve for boost on/boost off!
wfo9
New member
It's something I had planned to test out... I'm pretty sure the default position is open and positive pressure will close it....but I have asked the contacts I have at Magnuson for clarification. It could sit in the middle and use vacuum to open all the way up....
[EDIT] after getting a response from Magnuson... it is closed by default open with vacuum. [/Edit]
From my past experience... the bypass is typically not enough to completely eliminate boost... although you can bleed off most, it will still make a few psi under WOT... but I'm not sure in this size... all my previous setups were capable of at least 600+ hp.
Remember the throttle blade and RPM are still very much in play... in terms of airflow.. You have to have the TB open to give the compressor enough air to make boost. But once it is fully open and RPMs are up... the bypass can't typically keep up.
On the tune side.. The MAF should still be very much in charge.. My guess is the majority of what they tweak is timing and some base targets. Total guess though... these engines may very well run in a closed loop mode at all times with the wide bands being available...
I plan to capture data once I get everything up and running and things should become much more clear then.
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EEEliminator
Member
If that air has already been accounted for by the ECU you can't just bleed it off...
wfo9
New member
It's not already accounted for in a pull through setup.... you pull less when the bypass is open....
wfo9
New member
Had a few hours tonight and got the pulley system on. It's all aluminum and extremely lightweight. The grooved pulleys are actually a composite (like the tensioner)
Next step is the blower itself...
Only slow down I had was the thermostat housing bolt in the back. Took 30min to torque one tiny bolt. (had to use all kinds of crazy extensions...).. but I will get them to update the instructions to do that before the bracket (which should make things much quicker).
BTW, you replace the thermostat housing with an aluminum one. It has a different neck shape to clear everything. They include a tool to pop the old valve out and put it into the new housing. Super quick and easy.
FYI on the second picture below I have the tensioner on backwards... You will see the correct orientation in later posts.
Next step is the blower itself...
Only slow down I had was the thermostat housing bolt in the back. Took 30min to torque one tiny bolt. (had to use all kinds of crazy extensions...).. but I will get them to update the instructions to do that before the bracket (which should make things much quicker).
BTW, you replace the thermostat housing with an aluminum one. It has a different neck shape to clear everything. They include a tool to pop the old valve out and put it into the new housing. Super quick and easy.
FYI on the second picture below I have the tensioner on backwards... You will see the correct orientation in later posts.
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wfo9
New member
LOL, I've still got my LT front to go on after this. But not until I put the new Diamond front axle in my other build... which has a tiny little 22RE BTW. But it has all the power I need to CRAWL with the right gearing and is about the most fun you can have legally. :beer: Bottom line, power is nice but it really is mainly for the road.... Nice to have some on tap in a dual purpose rig though and looking forward to evaluating the difference. I think it will be a nice improvement and might motivate me to eventually SAS it.
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CSM4runner
New member
I'm digging the supercharger build but I'm more envious of the Vette in the background. C6Z? If so that's my next purchase. I just sold my C5Z and regret it EVERYDAY!
