Sorry, just noticed this! Here's the link to the files: PrusaPrinters
I also included the STEP file which will be much easier to edit than an STL which is a mesh file.
what an unbelievable difference! - kappa 3.5 dash speakers
- Thread starter mag10
- Start date
Sorry, just noticed this! Here's the link to the files: PrusaPrinters
I also included the STEP file which will be much easier to edit than an STL which is a mesh file.
nglayton
Senior Member
Thanks!
I just got done printing a set in ABS. My 3D printing skilz aren't that great but these should work just fine.
No one will be able to see them anyway, so I didn't spend much time cleaning them up.
Now just waiting for the speakers to arrive....
Attachments
nickeltitanium
New member
What setting do you have tremble/mid/bass after infinity cfx3032 installation?
DarthYota
Member
nice work [MENTION=42864]KP Texan[/MENTION]
Posting this here in addition to it's own thread. Mainly in case this is helpful to others that stumble upon this thread instead of mine.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-...jbl-dash-speaker-replacement.html#post3746525
Blew my driver's side dash speaker in my 2014 Limited with JBL and Nav.
I dont have a strong knowledge of car audio. Not looking to perform a full system swap ie HU, amps, and speakers. Just want a good replacement for these speakers and then maybe swap the front doors, sub, and dynamat at some point down the road if/when needed.
I subscribe to the buy once cry once theory so I'm willing to spend up to $300 for the front dash alone but the higher-priced options seem negligibly better. That threshold seems extremely easy to stay within as most are under $100.
Been reading and researching for several weeks.
Forum search sucks...returns 0 results for JBL :/
I've read most if not all of the major threads regarding dash replacements. Unfortunately, most threads are for base, not JBL. Most of the threads for JBL are for 2010-2013 or 2019-current models which seem to be different and the latter have their own set of issues. Most of the threads reference speaker models that are no longer available. 29 pages about a model you can't even find now. What a PITFA.
Don't have the full tech spec's on the JBL system ie what rms and peak are sent to the dash or each speaker. If anyone can provide that schematic, please do.
The system is 2ohm, but nobody really makes any true 2ohm speakers anymore. From what I cant tell, the only real impact of moving to a higher ohm speaker is less volume? Not even sure if that's correct. I've read of successes with 4ohm speakers but more often people say they weren't loud enough. With all windows open and cruising at 80 I generally have the JBL system turned up all the way and still wish for a little more volume. So the thought of losing volume is not exciting me.
Then again, I read this post and I'm even more depressed.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3469798-post608.html
"...For that matter the 4 or 5 sets I tried were the same with regards to mid range. If I could pair the the tweeters of the Hertz units with the mid-range of the stock JBLs, I'd be 100% satisfied. "
ugh...does nobody just make a solid kick-ass replacement?
But this is not a "nice to have...ooo lets tinker". This is phone calls and 50% of songs sound like shit, so must do.
Here is what I can find currently available, assuming listings are accurate.
Infinity Ref 3022cf - 2.65ohm - 25W/75W - 91.7db - 85-21k Hz
Infinity Reference 3022cf 3-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield
Infinity Ref 3032cf - 2ohm - 25W/75W - 91.7db - 85-21k Hz
Infinity Reference 3032cf 3-1/2" 2-way speakers at Crutchfield
Cant figure out the difference between the above two. Also both are discontinued but still available models.
JBL GX328/9 - 2.3 ohm - 25W/75W - 89dB - 90-21kHz
Amazon.com: JBL GX328 3-1/2" Coaxial Car Audio Loudspeakers : Electronics
JBL GX302 - 2.3ohm/3 - 50W/150W - 89db - 90-21k Hz
GX302 | Ready-to-use design 8.7 cm 2-way speaker with high output, (2.3 Ohms)
Both JBL's appear to be discontinued but are still readily available on Amazon. Other than wattage cant really figure out the diff. Have the read that the new Club is not very good.
Infinity Ref 3032cfx - 3/4ohm - 25W/75W - 91db - 85-21k Hz
https://www.infinityspeakers.com/speakers/REFERENCE+3032CFX.html
Ok wtf. 3 ohm at the speaker but 4 ohm when you include the wire? Why the marketing BS. Use the same damn intentions as everyone else. So do I consider this a 3ohm or 4ohm compared to the market.
Hertz DCX 87.3 - 4ohm - 30W RMS/60W PK- 92db - 130-21k Hz
https://hertz-audio.com/product/car-audio-coaxials-dieci-dcx87_3/
Possibly the best of the 4ohm options? How much does the 40hz diff on the low end really matter?
JL Audio C2-350 - 4ohm - 10-25W/75W - 86db - 130-22k Hz
https://www.jlaudio.com/products/c2-350x-car-audio-speakers-c2-coaxial-systems-99611
Seems like a lot of people who bought these ended up taking them out.
Kicker KSC350 47KSC350 - 4 ohm - 50W/100W - 88db - 80-20khz
https://www.kicker.com/47KSC350
KS option seems to be their top option but cant really tell for sure. Is it the best of their lineup?
Yes, I know there are other 4ohm options out there - Boston Acoustics SE5, Polk DB351, MB Quart, Memphis, Pioneer, Skar, etc but their stats seem to be lesser than the 4ohm options listed above or also discontinued.
I dont really want to want to go through multiple rounds of ordering and installation if I can avoid it. Not easy to find stuff to go listen to nowadays.
I'm leaning towards the JBL's since they seem to be more current than the first two Infinity's, and well, the system is JBL to start with. Is it best to just pay the markup on the factory replacement? Is there another option I'm missing?
TIA for your input, assistance, and education.
Chris
Posting this here in addition to it's own thread. Mainly in case this is helpful to others that stumble upon this thread instead of mine.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-...jbl-dash-speaker-replacement.html#post3746525
Blew my driver's side dash speaker in my 2014 Limited with JBL and Nav.
I dont have a strong knowledge of car audio. Not looking to perform a full system swap ie HU, amps, and speakers. Just want a good replacement for these speakers and then maybe swap the front doors, sub, and dynamat at some point down the road if/when needed.
I subscribe to the buy once cry once theory so I'm willing to spend up to $300 for the front dash alone but the higher-priced options seem negligibly better. That threshold seems extremely easy to stay within as most are under $100.
Been reading and researching for several weeks.
Forum search sucks...returns 0 results for JBL :/
I've read most if not all of the major threads regarding dash replacements. Unfortunately, most threads are for base, not JBL. Most of the threads for JBL are for 2010-2013 or 2019-current models which seem to be different and the latter have their own set of issues. Most of the threads reference speaker models that are no longer available. 29 pages about a model you can't even find now. What a PITFA.
Don't have the full tech spec's on the JBL system ie what rms and peak are sent to the dash or each speaker. If anyone can provide that schematic, please do.
The system is 2ohm, but nobody really makes any true 2ohm speakers anymore. From what I cant tell, the only real impact of moving to a higher ohm speaker is less volume? Not even sure if that's correct. I've read of successes with 4ohm speakers but more often people say they weren't loud enough. With all windows open and cruising at 80 I generally have the JBL system turned up all the way and still wish for a little more volume. So the thought of losing volume is not exciting me.
Then again, I read this post and I'm even more depressed.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3469798-post608.html
"...For that matter the 4 or 5 sets I tried were the same with regards to mid range. If I could pair the the tweeters of the Hertz units with the mid-range of the stock JBLs, I'd be 100% satisfied. "
ugh...does nobody just make a solid kick-ass replacement?
But this is not a "nice to have...ooo lets tinker". This is phone calls and 50% of songs sound like shit, so must do.
Here is what I can find currently available, assuming listings are accurate.
Infinity Ref 3022cf - 2.65ohm - 25W/75W - 91.7db - 85-21k Hz
Infinity Reference 3022cf 3-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield
Infinity Ref 3032cf - 2ohm - 25W/75W - 91.7db - 85-21k Hz
Infinity Reference 3032cf 3-1/2" 2-way speakers at Crutchfield
Cant figure out the difference between the above two. Also both are discontinued but still available models.
JBL GX328/9 - 2.3 ohm - 25W/75W - 89dB - 90-21kHz
Amazon.com: JBL GX328 3-1/2" Coaxial Car Audio Loudspeakers : Electronics
JBL GX302 - 2.3ohm/3 - 50W/150W - 89db - 90-21k Hz
GX302 | Ready-to-use design 8.7 cm 2-way speaker with high output, (2.3 Ohms)
Both JBL's appear to be discontinued but are still readily available on Amazon. Other than wattage cant really figure out the diff. Have the read that the new Club is not very good.
Infinity Ref 3032cfx - 3/4ohm - 25W/75W - 91db - 85-21k Hz
https://www.infinityspeakers.com/speakers/REFERENCE+3032CFX.html
Ok wtf. 3 ohm at the speaker but 4 ohm when you include the wire? Why the marketing BS. Use the same damn intentions as everyone else. So do I consider this a 3ohm or 4ohm compared to the market.
Hertz DCX 87.3 - 4ohm - 30W RMS/60W PK- 92db - 130-21k Hz
https://hertz-audio.com/product/car-audio-coaxials-dieci-dcx87_3/
Possibly the best of the 4ohm options? How much does the 40hz diff on the low end really matter?
JL Audio C2-350 - 4ohm - 10-25W/75W - 86db - 130-22k Hz
https://www.jlaudio.com/products/c2-350x-car-audio-speakers-c2-coaxial-systems-99611
Seems like a lot of people who bought these ended up taking them out.
Kicker KSC350 47KSC350 - 4 ohm - 50W/100W - 88db - 80-20khz
https://www.kicker.com/47KSC350
KS option seems to be their top option but cant really tell for sure. Is it the best of their lineup?
Yes, I know there are other 4ohm options out there - Boston Acoustics SE5, Polk DB351, MB Quart, Memphis, Pioneer, Skar, etc but their stats seem to be lesser than the 4ohm options listed above or also discontinued.
I dont really want to want to go through multiple rounds of ordering and installation if I can avoid it. Not easy to find stuff to go listen to nowadays.
I'm leaning towards the JBL's since they seem to be more current than the first two Infinity's, and well, the system is JBL to start with. Is it best to just pay the markup on the factory replacement? Is there another option I'm missing?
TIA for your input, assistance, and education.
Chris
going from a 3ohm to 4ohm impedance speaker will result in lower volume because your amp will put out less power(wattage) but your amp will run cooler(though not needed). going to a 2ohm would be louder and require your amp to put out more which could cause it to overheat if its not made to handle that.
If you want the speaker to be louder you want a higher db rating ie the infinity, because that higher sensitivity will put out more volume. the kickers have an 88db rating which means it will not be as loud at the same volume compared to the infinity at 91db.
If you want to replace it correctly, unfortunately replacing the jbl system is kind of an all or nothing. you can probably get away with just doing speakers though - I would recommend 4ohm if you don't want to hunt down a 3ohm speaker.
DarthYota
Member
In this case, it's my understanding the stock JBL amp is made to operate at 2ohm so the first part shouldn't be an issue.
For arguments sake would the extra 2.x db really matter? And would it be noticeable if it's 3 ohm @ 91db vs 2.3 ohm @ 89db? Another way to ask, whats the more important factor there in volume...the ohms or db's? In this case would the differences offset each other?
Hunting down the 3ohms isn't an issue...I already have, along with the sub 3ohm options. JBL GX328/302 and Infinity 3022/3032cf.
I'm ok with getting an older discontinued model as long as it's not so old the tech is prehistoric. If it's significantly inferior I would go for the readily available 3ohm options in the Club 322F or the 3032cfx.
in that case ohms as they correlate directly to power output of the amp so the 2.3 would be at least equal if not louder as long as it doesnt cause the amp to overheat. Speakers have not seen a lot of improvement over the past few years so there is no outdated tech really. even the materials have pretty much stayed the same.
at those price points though and without a good amp you won't notice much quality differences between those speakers other than more mids or highs so choose what sounds best that is within the best working impedance for you. between a 4ohm speaker at 88db and a 4ohm speaker at 91db you will definitely notice a volume difference though.
