What are Rear Lower Links for?

MadeInMaine

New member
I am getting ready to snag a lift kit, but I am curious about the details of what the rear lower links are for?

and I know its a rookie question....

Cheers
 
Register to hide this ad
Off-set lower links?

THey also limit travel of the rear axle unless you get the offset lower links that many companies offer.

What are you talking abut? Any examples? All of the rear lower links I have seen are straight.

Isn't the upper limit of wheel travel the bump stop or the tires against the fenders, whichever coms first. And the lower limit of travel is dependent on the system, the coil springs and the shocks, depending on whether it's long travel or not.
:thanks:
 
What are you talking abut? Any examples? All of the rear lower links I have seen are straight.

Isn't the upper limit of wheel travel the bump stop or the tires against the fenders, whichever coms first. And the lower limit of travel is dependent on the system, the coil springs and the shocks, depending on whether it's long travel or not.
:thanks:
He is talking about down travel. If you have long travel, the link will bind up against the axle at full drop. It's borderline, but it will hit with a LT shock.

Like stated. The lower links control axle movement (mainly fore and aft). The main reason for going aftermarket is strength. The stock ones bend very easy. First rock you put it on will result in a bend.
 
They are much more than just skids...

Also like those Total Chaos front lower control arms. Better than a LCA skid plate I presume.

Unless you are running jounce or dual front shocks and also welding stiffeners onto the front spindles they probably aren't worth it. They definitely aren't worth it simply for skid protection. A arm skids are only about $100-$120.
 
Also the stock lower links are somewhat weak as I found out the second time I wheeled my truck. I crested a hill and hung up on a huge rock right on the lower link. Had a slight bend to it after that. It didn't affect the drivability tho. If you plan on really wheeling your rig then go for the aftermarket ones.
 
Lift and alignment links

Also the stock lower links are somewhat weak as I found out the second time I wheeled my truck. I crested a hill and hung up on a huge rock right on the lower link. Had a slight bend to it after that. It didn't affect the drivability tho. If you plan on really wheeling your rig then go for the aftermarket ones.

So you're a Crazy Norwegian in So Cal, are you?

The bend in your lower link trailing arm had to affect the length, which affects the rear axle alignment. So does adding a lift to the truck, as far as I can tell.

I don't see how anyone can do a lift like the ICON Stage 1 or Stage 2, or any other brand of lift, without replacing the rear links and pan hard bar. Lifting the T4R off the axle pulls the axle forward. If you don't adjust the link arms and cross bar then the axle is pulled forward, shortening the wheel base and alignment sideways due to the pan hard bar is also affected. Some might say the distance is minor given the angle of the links, but it is there nonetheless.

Anyone care comment or shed some light on the undercarriage?
 
So you're a Crazy Norwegian in So Cal, are you?

The bend in your lower link trailing arm had to affect the length, which affects the rear axle alignment. So does adding a lift to the truck, as far as I can tell.

I don't see how anyone can do a lift like the ICON Stage 1 or Stage 2, or any other brand of lift, without replacing the rear links and pan hard bar. Lifting the T4R off the axle pulls the axle forward. If you don't adjust the link arms and cross bar then the axle is pulled forward, shortening the wheel base and alignment sideways due to the pan hard bar is also affected. Some might say the distance is minor given the angle of the links, but it is there nonetheless.

Anyone care comment or shed some light on the undercarriage?

https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=rZL0U7-BK8m1yASbuoGYBQ&ved=0CBMQ1S4
 
[MENTION=115572]DesertCanyons[/MENTION] I believe you are technically correct.

Most consider the changes in dimensions negligible as it doesn't dramaticlly effect the vehicle performance (kinda like when you lift the front end, it's tribal knowledge/ understood you don't really have/need to drop the front diff (on 4th and 5th gens) despite changing the angle of the driveshaft and cv's arguement because the OEM components can handle it usually). The vehicle still functions just fine...

Do you need offset adjustable rear lower links, an adjustable panhard bar or a diff drop after installing a lift for safety reason? no. BUT it's not a bad idea if you have the spare coin.

I believe unless you're doing a LT setup the rear lower links and panhard adjustment needed for a typical 3" rear lift is 1/8"-3/16" to get the rear axle back centered... that's not a whole lot, but as you eluded, the axle isn't where it use to be before the lift.

Another great supplier of rear lower links and panhard bar is sonoran steel
Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts
Steve is a member of the forum here as well and knows his stuff. Very easy to work with too.
 
Lower links and alignment

Thanks Nate. That kind of experience and knowledge helps newbies like me understand the parts and mod's. Just one point though. Of course, if you lift the rear with longer springs and shocks the differential is automatically dropped with the straight axle. :jump:

I've looked at Sonoran Steel before. I like Steve's pan hard bar and his lift kit resembles the TRD Pro lift very closely. And he's not offering lower links with his kit either. I see Sonoran has a diff' drop for the front diff on the older T4Rs. I hadn't thought about this for the 5th generation but I see the axle angle is changed by the lift. Steve is actually close enough to go visit from here in So Cal.

Greg, your link did not work. It went to Google Search.
 
So you're a Crazy Norwegian in So Cal, are you?

The bend in your lower link trailing arm had to affect the length, which affects the rear axle alignment. So does adding a lift to the truck, as far as I can tell.

I don't see how anyone can do a lift like the ICON Stage 1 or Stage 2, or any other brand of lift, without replacing the rear links and pan hard bar. Lifting the T4R off the axle pulls the axle forward. If you don't adjust the link arms and cross bar then the axle is pulled forward, shortening the wheel base and alignment sideways due to the pan hard bar is also affected. Some might say the distance is minor given the angle of the links, but it is there nonetheless.

Anyone care comment or shed some light on the undercarriage?

Longer links will move the axle back to the original wheelbase at the new ride height, but what about when the suspension is compressed? Longer rear links will push the rear axle towards the rear of the wheel wells and a longer panhard bar will shift the axle to the left when compressed. This can cause rubbing issues especially when running larger tires. The axle shift when lifted is pretty minimal (under an inch I'd guess) so it's not going to make any noticeable difference driving down the road. Longer links always seemed like a bit of a money grab to me although the strength upgrade is nice. You can reinforce the stock links with angle iron or cut and sleeve them with stronger tubing and get the same effect.
 
Longer links will move the axle back to the original wheelbase at the new ride height, but what about when the suspension is compressed? Longer rear links will push the rear axle towards the rear of the wheel wells and a longer panhard bar will shift the axle to the left when compressed. This can cause rubbing issues especially when running larger tires. The axle shift when lifted is pretty minimal (under an inch I'd guess) so it's not going to make any noticeable difference driving down the road. Longer links always seemed like a bit of a money grab to me although the strength upgrade is nice. You can reinforce the stock links with angle iron or cut and sleeve them with stronger tubing and get the same effect.

Never thought about putting a sleeve on them. Good idea. Skids for the front lower link mounts are also very useful (mainly on the passenger side) The gas tank skid protects the drivers side pretty well.
 
Thanks Nate. That kind of experience and knowledge helps newbies like me understand the parts and mod's. Just one point though. Of course, if you lift the rear with longer springs and shocks the differential is automatically dropped with the straight axle. :jump:

I've looked at Sonoran Steel before. I like Steve's pan hard bar and his lift kit resembles the TRD Pro lift very closely. And he's not offering lower links with his kit either. I see Sonoran has a diff' drop for the front diff on the older T4Rs. I hadn't thought about this for the 5th generation but I see the axle angle is changed by the lift. Steve is actually close enough to go visit from here in So Cal.

Greg, your link did not work. It went to Google Search.

Sorry. Nate pretty much covered what I tried to link lol.
 
Longer links will move the axle back to the original wheelbase at the new ride height, but what about when the suspension is compressed? Longer rear links will push the rear axle towards the rear of the wheel wells and a longer panhard bar will shift the axle to the left when compressed. This can cause rubbing issues especially when running larger tires. The axle shift when lifted is pretty minimal (under an inch I'd guess) so it's not going to make any noticeable difference driving down the road. Longer links always seemed like a bit of a money grab to me although the strength upgrade is nice. You can reinforce the stock links with angle iron or cut and sleeve them with stronger tubing and get the same effect.

These are all true points. But I think the most important alignment is for normal everyday driving. For normal speeds on flat ground, whether you're on pavement or a dirt road, you want a longer wheel base and you want the vehicle to track straight with the axle centered and perpendicular to the line of the car. The wheel base of the T4R is already one of the shortest of all of the 4 wheel drive off-road SUV's, including the Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (not the two door).

Shorter, original rear axle links will push the axle back when the springs are compressed too. And only one side is compressed at a time, unless you're coming down from catching some serious air time. The other side is usually dropping at that moment and will move forward. At that brief moment when crawling over a dirt mogul, a rock or a hole, the axle gets skewed both ways.

Yes, the panhard bar will shift the axle off center when compressed on the side where the bar connects to the axle, but this is at very slow speed. At normal speeds on flat ground the axle should track centered under the vehicle.

I don't know how larger tires fit. But I believe clearance at the front of the wheel well is as critical as the back end, and the stock set up is probably centered. But I don't know this from actual experience. Just fishing for clues here... :fishing:
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,315
Messages
3,554,102
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top