Nope haven't heard anything. if you follow instructions from videos online you shouldnt have any problems. i did have a small problem connecting the transfer skid to the frame points, there are 2 bolts on each side. i just couldnt get the inside bolts to connect but i talked to rci and they suggested to get 10 or 15mm longer bolt. Otherwise no issues at all.
What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!
- Thread starter DEKA3
- Start date
Nope haven't heard anything. if you follow instructions from videos online you shouldnt have any problems. i did have a small problem connecting the transfer skid to the frame points, there are 2 bolts on each side. i just couldnt get the inside bolts to connect but i talked to rci and they suggested to get 10 or 15mm longer bolt. Otherwise no issues at all.
2016 4Runner SR5
Senior Member
Only driven about 30-40 miles since the mod but I don't see any improvement using the trucks MPG calculator. I do feel a bit of a boost in low and mid range power though. I really don't get on it much so can't speak for top end.
atchcraft
New member
Friggin Idiot
Senior Member
Got a shipment notification from "Mama Rago" of RagoFabrication
Looks like I'll have my new crossbars next week! :banana:
Looks like I'll have my new crossbars next week! :banana:
atchcraft
New member
I’m anxiously waiting on mine. Got the Molle panels for the back.
WarEagle28
New member
Had an interesting start to the day... got in it to go to work, put the key in the ignition, and it wouldn’t turn. I figured I must have pulled the wheel getting out and locked it so I shook the wheel but still no luck. Kept trying for a minute while I was half awake, then finally looked at the key... it was bent!
I bent it back (mostly) straight tonight. It took a little more umph to bend it than I expected. Whatever bent it must have put some decent weight on it, couldn’t have just been in my pocket or I’m sure I’d known lol
I bent it back (mostly) straight tonight. It took a little more umph to bend it than I expected. Whatever bent it must have put some decent weight on it, couldn’t have just been in my pocket or I’m sure I’d known lol
mwray8909
New member
Did you get everything figured out? If not DM me. I'll give you a few things I learned from my different 5th gen installs.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
DesertCanyons
New member
ICON Stage 7 Lift install
Hi and thanks for your note.
When I finally quit today, I was still trying to get the track bar in place. I matched the original bar but now the distance has moved about 1/4". I attached 3 ratchet straps from the axle to the frame but it didn't move much. Hopefully I'll finish that tomorrow and get the tires back on. A few minor details and I'm done.
I'll post photos when I'm done.
The ICON instructions for the extended travel 2.5" coil over shock (#58747C) recommends no more than 2.13" (~ 2&1/8") of distance from the underside of top cap to the top of the coil spring adjuster nut. I set mine at 1&15/16", or less than 2". I was going for that 2&1/2" to 3" of lift.
I followed the ICON video on measuring original lift height from the center of the hub to the underside of the fender lip at the wheel well. I measured 18&1/8" on the drivers side and 1/2" higher on the passenger side. Max droop was 23&5/16" on the drivers side and 24" on the passenger side. That's about 5&1/4" of droop, right? After the lift I have 23" to 24" of lift above the center of the hub. That's 5" to 6" of lift. Crazy!
The shocks came set at 1&1/2" of threads showing and I increased it less than 1/2".
I still have a couple of inches of droop. I'll check that again tomorrow. ICON recommends a minimum of 2" of droop.
Most people believe these will settle after a little driving over dips and bumps. We'll see if that's true. The amount of lift keeps changing after I drive it a few blocks and when I lift the wheel off the ground again. I'll be calling Scott at ICON on Monday to discuss my lift install.
Geeze, with some interruptions, I've been working on this lift install 8 hours a day for 7 days. I'm working on the garage floor with a floor jack, several bottle jacks and lots of jack stands. The car is sitting on 3 jack stands and I put in extras next to them in case those fail. I've been pretty careful and greased or seize protected every bolt.
A lot of this work is new to me. I've never done this much mechanical work before. I didn't want to pay someone else to install it. I wanted to see how everything comes together. It's been a good experience and I've learned a lot.
Thanks again,
Dave in So Cal
Hi and thanks for your note.
When I finally quit today, I was still trying to get the track bar in place. I matched the original bar but now the distance has moved about 1/4". I attached 3 ratchet straps from the axle to the frame but it didn't move much. Hopefully I'll finish that tomorrow and get the tires back on. A few minor details and I'm done.
I'll post photos when I'm done.
The ICON instructions for the extended travel 2.5" coil over shock (#58747C) recommends no more than 2.13" (~ 2&1/8") of distance from the underside of top cap to the top of the coil spring adjuster nut. I set mine at 1&15/16", or less than 2". I was going for that 2&1/2" to 3" of lift.
I followed the ICON video on measuring original lift height from the center of the hub to the underside of the fender lip at the wheel well. I measured 18&1/8" on the drivers side and 1/2" higher on the passenger side. Max droop was 23&5/16" on the drivers side and 24" on the passenger side. That's about 5&1/4" of droop, right? After the lift I have 23" to 24" of lift above the center of the hub. That's 5" to 6" of lift. Crazy!
The shocks came set at 1&1/2" of threads showing and I increased it less than 1/2".
I still have a couple of inches of droop. I'll check that again tomorrow. ICON recommends a minimum of 2" of droop.
Most people believe these will settle after a little driving over dips and bumps. We'll see if that's true. The amount of lift keeps changing after I drive it a few blocks and when I lift the wheel off the ground again. I'll be calling Scott at ICON on Monday to discuss my lift install.
Geeze, with some interruptions, I've been working on this lift install 8 hours a day for 7 days. I'm working on the garage floor with a floor jack, several bottle jacks and lots of jack stands. The car is sitting on 3 jack stands and I put in extras next to them in case those fail. I've been pretty careful and greased or seize protected every bolt.
A lot of this work is new to me. I've never done this much mechanical work before. I didn't want to pay someone else to install it. I wanted to see how everything comes together. It's been a good experience and I've learned a lot.
Thanks again,
Dave in So Cal
cmilviper
New member
23" up front is usually about right on the money for a 3 inch lift, but I've never heard of a 5th gen being that low to start with, even with KDSS..... 18.125"? (It doesn't appear that you have much weight up there according to your sig either)
Most stock 5th Gen 4Runners are in the 19-20" range up front....TRD Pros an inch higher...
I'm at about 23.25" on both of our 4Runners, right where I like them.
Good luck getting it finished up!
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Kenstaroni
New member
Jack up one side of the rear and the track bar should settle back in place where you can bolt it back in. I can imagine it's pretty tough to try to force it back with straps or a pry bar, especially by yourself. How are you using 3 jackstands and not 4? Rear should be on jack stands, then use your jack to manipulate the rear axle as needed. Hope the rear axle is not sitting on one jack stand on the diff, that's probabaly not the safest and will keep you from being able to move the rear up and down on each side, may be why you can't get the track bar back in?
Yes it will settle after driving it around for a few, especially if you hit some trail and let it flex out a few times. I'm at 23 1/4 passenger side and 23 3/8 driver without me in it. To get there I have the driver side at 1 15/16 thread showing, and passenger is one turn less than what Icon set them at or about 1 3/16.
Every time you jack it up to adjust you're going to need to let It settle again to get a good measurement. Put it back on the ground. Put it in neutral and roll it back and forth some to let the tires scrub, and jump on the door sills or sliders / steps on both sides to try to help it settle again. Then measure.
Yes it will settle after driving it around for a few, especially if you hit some trail and let it flex out a few times. I'm at 23 1/4 passenger side and 23 3/8 driver without me in it. To get there I have the driver side at 1 15/16 thread showing, and passenger is one turn less than what Icon set them at or about 1 3/16.
Every time you jack it up to adjust you're going to need to let It settle again to get a good measurement. Put it back on the ground. Put it in neutral and roll it back and forth some to let the tires scrub, and jump on the door sills or sliders / steps on both sides to try to help it settle again. Then measure.
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2016 4Runner SR5
Senior Member
Why jack it up to adjust? I adjusted my ToyTec coilovers with the full weight of the truck on them. Got them dead on 23" on both sides up front, level as it can be. Actually been about 6700 miles or so, I guess it would be a good idea to measure again and adjust if needed. I also didn't disconnect my rear track bar when lifting, really didn't need to. At 3" in the back though I think i'm going to invest in an adjustable bar to get the rear axle dead center again.
honda250xtitan
New member
thats a bold move cotton.
Kenstaroni
New member
I'm sure it could be done with the weight on the truck but it's gotta be pretty tough to turn the collar. Jacking it up makes it a lot easier to adjust since weight is off the coil.
2016 4Runner SR5
Senior Member
Why? I wasn't going tighter, had to decrease preload on the passenger side. Out of the box the driver side was perfect, passenger side was way too high. Had to back off on it quite a bit to get it level. You can see the difference side to side in the pictures.
Attachments
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sandcrawler
Senior Member
i understand where you're coming from, but rest assured that this is normal. it will settle down quickly. give it time to do so, and make any necessary adjustments, before you get an alignment.
DesertCanyons
New member
Track bar adjustment
Hi and thanks for the ideas.
I realized after I posted about my jack stands that most people would think I had the whole car on 3 jack stands. Actually, I finished the front and put the tires back on. The back of the frame is resting on 3 jack stands. The tailpipe is in the way of placing a 4th jack stand behind the axle. It's very hard to place a third jack stand below a semi rigid frame and get the load equally distributed, but I managed to place it in just the right place, forward of the axle and behind.
I'm going to measure both sides of the axle to the frame to see if I'm aligned at the center. I can measure from the disk brake rotor to the opposite side of the frame and see if it's the same on both sides. That may tell me if it's centered. If it's centered I will try what you suggested and see if the track bar moves toward the frame hole. No, it did not move with 3 ratchet straps between the axle and the frame. The axle is held pretty tightly by the 4 trailing arms, the shocks and the springs. If it measures out as centered I may try to adjust the track bar heim end to fit the location. I did add at least 2 inches of lift after all.
Your front coil setting is about the same as mine. I'll have to check suspension lean after I get the suspension to settle and then adjust the coils as needed. ICON has a good YouTube video on how to do this.
I'm going to drive it once I get the track bar installed. I'll be looking for some local dips and bumps to move the suspension. I can drive over some speed bumps at an angle to get the suspension to cycle on both sides. I can drive up on a curb to get one wheel tucked up. I don't think my 180 pounds of body weight is going to move a 4800 pound car nearly as much as some suspension movement.
Thanks again for weighing in on this.
Dave in So Cal
Hi and thanks for the ideas.
I realized after I posted about my jack stands that most people would think I had the whole car on 3 jack stands. Actually, I finished the front and put the tires back on. The back of the frame is resting on 3 jack stands. The tailpipe is in the way of placing a 4th jack stand behind the axle. It's very hard to place a third jack stand below a semi rigid frame and get the load equally distributed, but I managed to place it in just the right place, forward of the axle and behind.
I'm going to measure both sides of the axle to the frame to see if I'm aligned at the center. I can measure from the disk brake rotor to the opposite side of the frame and see if it's the same on both sides. That may tell me if it's centered. If it's centered I will try what you suggested and see if the track bar moves toward the frame hole. No, it did not move with 3 ratchet straps between the axle and the frame. The axle is held pretty tightly by the 4 trailing arms, the shocks and the springs. If it measures out as centered I may try to adjust the track bar heim end to fit the location. I did add at least 2 inches of lift after all.
Your front coil setting is about the same as mine. I'll have to check suspension lean after I get the suspension to settle and then adjust the coils as needed. ICON has a good YouTube video on how to do this.
I'm going to drive it once I get the track bar installed. I'll be looking for some local dips and bumps to move the suspension. I can drive over some speed bumps at an angle to get the suspension to cycle on both sides. I can drive up on a curb to get one wheel tucked up. I don't think my 180 pounds of body weight is going to move a 4800 pound car nearly as much as some suspension movement.
Thanks again for weighing in on this.
Dave in So Cal
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DesertCanyons
New member
Adjusting the coil over spring height
Yes, it might be possible but it's not the easy way.
The coil over springs have a lot of compression in them. Tightening the spring collar was hard with no weight on them. I added grease to the threads below the collar to make it easier and ensure I could back them off later if need be. It's easy to lift the frame with a floor jack until the tire droops. That's the easy way to adjust the coils.
Yes, it might be possible but it's not the easy way.
The coil over springs have a lot of compression in them. Tightening the spring collar was hard with no weight on them. I added grease to the threads below the collar to make it easier and ensure I could back them off later if need be. It's easy to lift the frame with a floor jack until the tire droops. That's the easy way to adjust the coils.
2016 4Runner SR5
Senior Member
So I'm thinking about installing puddle lights on the bottom side of my side view mirrors since the SR5 doesn't come with them and I like the look. Anyone know if the wiring is run into the doors already even though there aren't any lights? Figure they may use the same wiring harness regardless of the model. If so, that'd make life much easier!
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