Yep, I can grab some tonight. I used the oem Rav 4 kit off ebay. There's actually a good DIY thread that I just posted a reply in a little bit ago and that has some photos of those points on page 1 and 7.
What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!
- Thread starter DEKA3
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Yep, I can grab some tonight. I used the oem Rav 4 kit off ebay. There's actually a good DIY thread that I just posted a reply in a little bit ago and that has some photos of those points on page 1 and 7.
T4Jumper
Member
That pic was taken before I had a chance to properly aim them. Did it later that night.
ElectroBoy
Banned
Thanks. I found the thread you referred to. Very helpful and the photos look good.
DIY: Roof Rack Delete (w/ pics)
chuffaluffigus
New member
We explored some of the back roads and main roads of Death Valley National Park over the weekend. We saw elevations from 8k' down to -283' at Badwater Basin, wind so strong it made it hard to stand, and temps down as low as 35° at the highest elevations. Overall an awesome weekend, but I definitely could have done without the wind.
ANDY_FTLC
New member
Looked like a good time. Was thinking about heading to Death Valley over this upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
ruff4runner
Member
I installed my Pelfreybilt front bumper I got from Bay Area Metal Fab, along with all the other bits I've been hiding from my girlfriend. Theres a good chance she may not notice any change and I wont have to explain a thing. She never even noticed the 3'x3'x7' box with the bumper in it so, who knows.
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EddieV4runnin
New member
Done quite a lot the past few days.
Swapped my toytec rears for Dobinson C59-325
Replaced a CV axle cause the boot tore. CV is perfectly fine and I'll be rebooting it in the future. Running a NAPA CV axle and all was fine until I noticed at full droop, the axle binds. It will rotate just fine until it stops and catches, and have to forcefully rotate the tire and the front driveshaft will have a rotation too until the binding stops. First time I've ran into axle binding so I had a bit of a panic. I'll let it stress me out another day. It wasn't too bad of a job but first time doing it, I was stressed the new axle wouldn't go in right away. Should be easier next time.
And lastly, I installed Element LED Micropod ditch lights today.
How do you like the Radflows?
HurricanePDX
New member
Installed Metal Tech 4x4 Sliders last Thursday, pretty happy with the build quality and design.
SnoRnR
New member
What mount did you use for the Maxtrax? I have a Gobi on order looking for solutions. Would prefer something that utilises the Maxtrax locking pins for security.
I need to do this exact thing, so what did you do for prep before powder coat? What kind of primer did you use? I always wonder what type of primer should be used under powder coat.
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Bodie the Dog
Banned
Blue 4ever Runner
New member
Got my first dent...but how??
Found this today, I have no idea of what could dent it like this. No marks on the paint at all.
UPDATE: Got this from Harbor freight and gave it a try. No matter what I used to make the glue stick better it kept releasing after only getting a tiny bit of the dent out. After 8 tries it still has two small dents but I'd say 90% is gone. One day when I'm in the mood I'll try again.
Found this today, I have no idea of what could dent it like this. No marks on the paint at all.
UPDATE: Got this from Harbor freight and gave it a try. No matter what I used to make the glue stick better it kept releasing after only getting a tiny bit of the dent out. After 8 tries it still has two small dents but I'd say 90% is gone. One day when I'm in the mood I'll try again.
Attachments
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KingTaco
New member
Have you ever taken that roof rail end cap/boot off before? I've seen that same dent on multiple 4Runners (including mine) after using a lever to pop that boot off. Doesn't take much force there.
MyanRagahis
Member
I like them a lot. They ride well for me and I remember putting them on in place of my Bilsteins, the compressions and rebound felt like a cloud on the road.
Took it off road this past March, I didn't know if it was too soft but I think I was just being picky. They do feel really good though and soaks up the drops and bumps well. Definitely not a harsh feeling but just more bouncy. Kinda wonder at times if I should have spent the extra money on reservoirs and adjustable knobs. But that's why I got the Radflos to begin with; didn't want reservoirs, wanted progressive valving, and wanted 2.5's.
I think the 2.5 rears hold up the rear end an extra inch. I get 3 inches of lift with 2" springs, but these new Dobinson's may still be settling.
I always question how no extra weight and standard coils over my 700 fronts and bumper/winch would feel, but I'm overall happy with them.
Love ease of adjustability since I never had that with the 6112's. I also like how their lock ring is easier to deal with rather than some brands and you can adjust them on the vehicle while on a jack.
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SgtKeebler
New member
[MENTION=224676]MRG_TRD[/MENTION]
[MENTION=165831]jasxn[/MENTION]
[MENTION=51033]97BlackAckCL[/MENTION]
More storage area pictures and measurements.
So I already had the rear bumper removed for another project, but it doesn’t need to be removed to build and fit in the custom storage. I removed the molding that holds down the carpet next to the rear hatch (the middle clips are easy, the side clips are a PITA) along with the plastic piece with the D-rings by the seats. Then I pulled out the original carpet and hard foam under padding. I removed the foam from the underside edges of the original carpet, but left the felt padding in the middle. I then placed the carpet back into the rear compartment to use at the base for the storage.
Then we just measured and cut the frame out of 3/8” Poplar boards. The side boards (run front to back) were cut to 36 1/4” (length) x 2 3/8” (height) they sit on the plastic rails that run along the wheel well (in the picture my dad has the level resting on one).
The center support rail is 36 1/4” (length) x 3” (height) with a 1 1/2” board nailed (finishing nails) to the top to make it a T for extra support for the lids (We had to cut the bottom of the board to fit over the metal hump on the floor, in 1st picture).
The boards (that run from the driver to passenger side) were cut to 41 3/8” (length) x 3 1/2” (height) and as you can see in the pictures relief cuts were made to make it fit around the seat brackets.
For all the joints/connections we used wood glue and screws.
I then just used black spray paint on the frame and the under side of the lids.
The top piece and lids are 1/2” MDF boards covered in black automotive carpet (held on with spray adhesive and staples), the fixed top piece is 41 ½” (length) x 11” (width), the lids are both 20” (width) x 28” (length) with a 1/2” aluminum U-channel attached (glued and screwed) to the edge of the lid that opens for extra protection. There is about a 3/8” gap between fixed top piece and lids to allow for the piano hinge to be mounted underneath and out of the way. The lids hang over about 1/2”-3/4” by the rear hatch to lift them open.
Still working on a lid support to keep it open on its own, most likely going to just cut a piece of wood that it can rest on.
Some pictures are same but help explain it.
[MENTION=165831]jasxn[/MENTION]
[MENTION=51033]97BlackAckCL[/MENTION]
More storage area pictures and measurements.
So I already had the rear bumper removed for another project, but it doesn’t need to be removed to build and fit in the custom storage. I removed the molding that holds down the carpet next to the rear hatch (the middle clips are easy, the side clips are a PITA) along with the plastic piece with the D-rings by the seats. Then I pulled out the original carpet and hard foam under padding. I removed the foam from the underside edges of the original carpet, but left the felt padding in the middle. I then placed the carpet back into the rear compartment to use at the base for the storage.
Then we just measured and cut the frame out of 3/8” Poplar boards. The side boards (run front to back) were cut to 36 1/4” (length) x 2 3/8” (height) they sit on the plastic rails that run along the wheel well (in the picture my dad has the level resting on one).
The center support rail is 36 1/4” (length) x 3” (height) with a 1 1/2” board nailed (finishing nails) to the top to make it a T for extra support for the lids (We had to cut the bottom of the board to fit over the metal hump on the floor, in 1st picture).
The boards (that run from the driver to passenger side) were cut to 41 3/8” (length) x 3 1/2” (height) and as you can see in the pictures relief cuts were made to make it fit around the seat brackets.
For all the joints/connections we used wood glue and screws.
I then just used black spray paint on the frame and the under side of the lids.
The top piece and lids are 1/2” MDF boards covered in black automotive carpet (held on with spray adhesive and staples), the fixed top piece is 41 ½” (length) x 11” (width), the lids are both 20” (width) x 28” (length) with a 1/2” aluminum U-channel attached (glued and screwed) to the edge of the lid that opens for extra protection. There is about a 3/8” gap between fixed top piece and lids to allow for the piano hinge to be mounted underneath and out of the way. The lids hang over about 1/2”-3/4” by the rear hatch to lift them open.
Still working on a lid support to keep it open on its own, most likely going to just cut a piece of wood that it can rest on.
Some pictures are same but help explain it.
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