What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!
- Thread starter DEKA3
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TRD PANTHER
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![script>](http://<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/155058591@N05/50713982458/in/dateposted-public/" title="Offroad"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50713982458_7a07883aed_c.jpg" width="800" height="533" alt="Offroad"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>)
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DallasTRDPro
Member
Picked up a Console Vault and made a little hole so we can still charge our phones. Been wanting one of these since we got the 4R.
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I will never own another vehicle without a vault. Loved mine in my Jeeps. The Console Vault is the best I’ve owned.
TexasTJ
New member
My old Jeep had one under the driver seat (sliding drawer) loved that thing as well.
kaitlyn2004
New member
ElectroBoy
Banned
Looks like you had a great adventure to try out all your 4WD goodies. Well done. :thumb:
Itssslance
New member
Put on a prinsu rack this weekend [emoji1687]
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
kaitlyn2004
New member
Yeah but going down a hill and ending up sideways wasn't... the best... :S
krhayes79
New member
Got a few mods done on the truck this past weekend. One cosmetic and the rest was for my trip to Mojave this coming weekend!
First, I upgraded to the "cheap" TRD Pro grill and swapped out my generic, zip tied on raptor lights to the snap in Overland Depot raptor lights. I had one of the amber light covers pop off and had to super glue it back on and one of the other lights is a bit wiggly even though it is snapped in, but otherwise they look and work great.
Next was getting the Rotopax 4gal mounted to my LFD crossbars. The regular size crossbars do not allow the Rotopax mounts to be secured directly to the bars and be both straight and safe. I had to fab some mounting brackets that the Rotopax mounts could bolt into. This was a fun project and I am happy with the results. The Rotopax is not going anywhere!
With putting up the Rotopax, I had to reorganize everything else on my roof rack and that took some time but finally got it all worked out.
Lastly (no pic), I wired up an external antenna for my cheap Boefung radio.
I wired it through the firewall to allow me to store the excess wire under the hood when not in use and then I can easily run the wire and add the magnet and antenna to the roof above the windshield. I also mounted the the radio and a mic so I no longer have to hold it!
First, I upgraded to the "cheap" TRD Pro grill and swapped out my generic, zip tied on raptor lights to the snap in Overland Depot raptor lights. I had one of the amber light covers pop off and had to super glue it back on and one of the other lights is a bit wiggly even though it is snapped in, but otherwise they look and work great.
Next was getting the Rotopax 4gal mounted to my LFD crossbars. The regular size crossbars do not allow the Rotopax mounts to be secured directly to the bars and be both straight and safe. I had to fab some mounting brackets that the Rotopax mounts could bolt into. This was a fun project and I am happy with the results. The Rotopax is not going anywhere!
With putting up the Rotopax, I had to reorganize everything else on my roof rack and that took some time but finally got it all worked out.
Lastly (no pic), I wired up an external antenna for my cheap Boefung radio.
I wired it through the firewall to allow me to store the excess wire under the hood when not in use and then I can easily run the wire and add the magnet and antenna to the roof above the windshield. I also mounted the the radio and a mic so I no longer have to hold it!
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ElectroBoy
Banned
Looks like you’re all prepped for a great trip. Can you share where you’re planning to drive and explore in Mojave? Thx.
krhayes79
New member
We are doing the Mojave Road from east to west! It is about 120 miles and it will take us 3 days. I am stoked and it is gonna be an awesome time!
JeuTheIdit
New member
I never used my sliding cargo tray, so replaced it with a goose gear plate. Since I was already pulling things apart, decided to sound deaden the entire rear.
There are plenty of ways people have done this, but here was my method in order of layers:
3M super 77 was used to secure the foam, and gorilla tape for the mlv.
With the foam down and roofing compound under it:
With mlv down:
All finished:
I also took off the top side panels and put foam on the pillars. No mlv though.
The bottom side panels were a b**ch to get back in. Really had to squeeze everything. If I were to do it again, would use 1/16" foam instead. I bought a bunch of 1/8" though so we will see how the front of the vehicle, doors, and tailgate goes lol. Will slowly do those over the winter on weekends.
Overall, really pleased with the results and the plate!
There are plenty of ways people have done this, but here was my method in order of layers:
- Adhesive back roof repair rolls (about 20% coverage) - McMaster-Carr 9640T2
- 1/8" polyethylene closed cell foam - Polyethylene Roll Stock, Closed Cell Foam, Padding, Sheet Foam Rubber, Poker Table Foam
- 1lb mass loaded vinyl - Amazon.com: TMS Mass Loaded Vinyl 4' X 10' (40 sf) 1 Lb MLV Soundproofing Barrier. Highest Quality!: Musical Instruments
3M super 77 was used to secure the foam, and gorilla tape for the mlv.
With the foam down and roofing compound under it:
With mlv down:
All finished:
I also took off the top side panels and put foam on the pillars. No mlv though.
The bottom side panels were a b**ch to get back in. Really had to squeeze everything. If I were to do it again, would use 1/16" foam instead. I bought a bunch of 1/8" though so we will see how the front of the vehicle, doors, and tailgate goes lol. Will slowly do those over the winter on weekends.
Overall, really pleased with the results and the plate!
patkelly4370
New member
Went offroading with a group a couple weeks ago. Slightly bent my nerf/step.
Today I made it less slightly bent. Leverage with a 10 foot 2x4 works wonders.
When my sliders arrive I can pressure wash the nerfs, repaint, and sell.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Today I made it less slightly bent. Leverage with a 10 foot 2x4 works wonders.
When my sliders arrive I can pressure wash the nerfs, repaint, and sell.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
kaitlyn2004
New member
I never used my sliding cargo tray, so replaced it with a goose gear plate. Since I was already pulling things apart, decided to sound deaden the entire rear.
There are plenty of ways people have done this, but here was my method in order of layers:
- Adhesive back roof repair rolls (about 20% coverage) - McMaster-Carr 9640T2
- 1/8" polyethylene closed cell foam - Polyethylene Roll Stock, Closed Cell Foam, Padding, Sheet Foam Rubber, Poker Table Foam
- 1lb mass loaded vinyl - Amazon.com: TMS Mass Loaded Vinyl 4' X 10' (40 sf) 1 Lb MLV Soundproofing Barrier. Highest Quality!: Musical Instruments
3M super 77 was used to secure the foam, and gorilla tape for the mlv.
With the foam down and roofing compound under it:
With mlv down:
All finished:
I also took off the top side panels and put foam on the pillars. No mlv though.
The bottom side panels were a b**ch to get back in. Really had to squeeze everything. If I were to do it again, would use 1/16" foam instead. I bought a bunch of 1/8" though so we will see how the front of the vehicle, doors, and tailgate goes lol. Will slowly do those over the winter on weekends.
Overall, really pleased with the results and the plate!
Genuine question - why soundproof the bottom back? When I'm driving, I pretty much only notice external noise through the front or driver door - either bad acoustic windows or through the door panel. Wouldn't mind making that a bit quieter, but not sure what doing in the cargo area would do?
krhayes79
New member
Love this trail!!! The offshoots are both challenging but doable!!!
JeuTheIdit
New member
Like I said, I was already pulling stuff apart so I figured why not! The rear doesn't do that much though tbh. The front floor and doors + tailgate will do much more, which I plan to do in the future now that I have the materials.
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