What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!

I was just kidding with you as you ran the sentence together sounding like you may have. Congrats on the winch and bumper. Which ones did you get?

I did actually think about it... my friend and I tore down my old 20x40 shop building with a winch... it works real well if you can get a good grip on solid header boards, the whole building falls over straight as an arrow.

CBI adventure front bumper, Warn Evo 10-s, and the cbi double swing out rear bumper... really pleased... would post pics if I wasn't such a noob on the forums. The hardest part of the bumper install on the front was getting up the nerve to cut the face... I did an OK job, not good... I used a half moon blade on a multitool. Rear bumper was a pain in the ass to re-tap the frame threads to get the threads clean, I only had to tap about 1/4" and then just ran the m8 bolt through. The swing arms we easy once I got the bearings in... you really do need to get an abrasive on a drill and polish the inside of the race or there is no way you're getting in those bearings.
 
Finished rebooting my spare CV. Holy crap did the larger inner boot clamp gave me some trouble clamping down. I felt like I was about to break my clamp tool trying to squeeze it down.

Anyways it’s done…
2db8eeb6089de9350f5a8209c0a8a56d.jpg



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I did actually think about it... my friend and I tore down my old 20x40 shop building with a winch... it works real well if you can get a good grip on solid header boards, the whole building falls over straight as an arrow.

CBI adventure front bumper, Warn Evo 10-s, and the cbi double swing out rear bumper... really pleased... would post pics if I wasn't such a noob on the forums. The hardest part of the bumper install on the front was getting up the nerve to cut the face... I did an OK job, not good... I used a half moon blade on a multitool. Rear bumper was a pain in the ass to re-tap the frame threads to get the threads clean, I only had to tap about 1/4" and then just ran the m8 bolt through. The swing arms we easy once I got the bearings in... you really do need to get an abrasive on a drill and polish the inside of the race or there is no way you're getting in those bearings.
Wow, you laid down the cash with those mods. Congrats. I have doing a little at a time over the past five years. Will be getting the same winch. Post pics after you get the minimum number of posts.
 
Wow, you laid down the cash with those mods. Congrats. I have doing a little at a time over the past five years. Will be getting the same winch. Post pics after you get the minimum number of posts.

Unfortunately expensive, yes, but the welds look good, the powder coating looks good, and I'd rather spend a little more and not have to do the job twice. If I need to use the winch, I can't have it not work. I'm happy to pay people that do good work.

I'll post a build thread. As of now, the sr5 has full skids front to back by RCI, the bumpers and winch, an AnyTime camera on the front, and an Icon stage 2 lift. Next mod is East Coast Gears clamshell with 4.56 ratio and ARB lockers front and rear.
 
Have you not done a starter on a 5th gen? It's basically a decision, do I want to take off the driver's side exhaust manifold or do I want to disassemble the starter, feed it through the LCA, and then reassemble above the LCA before bolting it in... much easier than the alternator, but about the same pain in the knuckles.

Looks like something to look forward to! ha ha
Thanks for the heads up!
 
Relearned the lesson that if it’s not broke, don’t fix it…

I bought some Lasfit LED 921 bulbs to boost my anemic stock reverse lights. The bulbs are bigger and heavier than stock and we’re fairly loose in the housing. There is no retention on these bulbs.

Both bulbs ended up falling into the light housings so I had to learn to remove the housings and then had to fish out the bulbs. Once the housings were off the bulbs were easy to get with tweezers.

Once the housings we’re back on I put the stock bulbs back in so I’m back where I started from…

These are the bulbs that did not work for me:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B081YJ7G81?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Relearned the lesson that if it’s not broke, don’t fix it…

I bought some Lasfit LED 921 bulbs to boost my anemic stock reverse lights. The bulbs are bigger and heavier than stock and we’re fairly loose in the housing. There is no retention on these bulbs.

Both bulbs ended up falling into the light housings so I had to learn to remove the housings and then had to fish out the bulbs. Once the housings were off the bulbs were easy to get with tweezers.

Once the housings we’re back on I put the stock bulbs back in so I’m back where I started from…

These are the bulbs that did not work for me:

Amazon.com


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Sorry to hear this. Give VLEDS Triton bulbs a shot, then affix differently and are bright and plug & play.

Also consider the Diode Dynamics receiver hitch light. It is also plug & play, offers a nice reverse light, brake, and tail light. No cutting.

I use both and they are fantastic.
 
Relearned the lesson that if it’s not broke, don’t fix it…

I bought some Lasfit LED 921 bulbs to boost my anemic stock reverse lights. The bulbs are bigger and heavier than stock and we’re fairly loose in the housing. There is no retention on these bulbs.

Both bulbs ended up falling into the light housings so I had to learn to remove the housings and then had to fish out the bulbs. Once the housings were off the bulbs were easy to get with tweezers.

Once the housings we’re back on I put the stock bulbs back in so I’m back where I started from…

These are the bulbs that did not work for me:

Amazon.com


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Same thing happened to me. I reached out to them and they sent me a different style that fit a lot more tightly (probably too tight), they did not have that quality finish of the others though. But they work, of course only one side though, that I think is a loose wiring issue.
 
Same thing happened to me. I reached out to them and they sent me a different style that fit a lot more tightly (probably too tight), they did not have that quality finish of the others though. But they work, of course only one side though, that I think is a loose wiring issue.


This is why the Triton bulb from VLED’s works so well…… the bulb itself doesn’t plug into the bulb socket like many cheap 921’s do, the entire bulb goes securely into the opening in the tail light housing. There is a pigtail coming off the bulb that plugs into the vehicle wiring well inside the vehicle. It’s secure and much much more effective than any 921 led bulb I’ve used.

I am not affiliated with VLED’s, but have been a very satisfied customer for more than 10 years. Yes, the stuff is more expensive but worth it, plus they have outstanding customer service.

* there is currently a 20% off special for Independence Day

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Finally got around to adding a lift and new wheels and tires. 6112 in the front #7/#5 and 5100 rear with 1.5 in rear coil lift. Matte Bronze RRW RR6 -12 offset wrapped in falken wildpeak AT3 285/70/17. No rubbing but I did do fender liner mod and small trim to front bumper plus removed mud flaps.
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Finally got around to adding a lift and new wheels and tires. 6112 in the front #7/#5 and 5100 rear with 1.5 in rear coil lift. Matte Bronze RRW RR6 -12 offset wrapped in falken wildpeak AT3 285/70/17. No rubbing but I did do fender liner mod and small trim to front bumper plus removed mud flaps.
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are you sure the strut assembly is correct?
 
Good catch honda, it looks like there are 2 bushings or something weird on top of the strut mount.



OP, can you post a photo showing the top stud of the strut as well? That 1 photo posted doesn't look right.
This is how they were assembled and shipped to me directly from shock surplus.
846e09fd5f507c7896477cc4f8d3a9d4.jpg


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This is how they were assembled and shipped to me directly from shock surplus.

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I think you're ok. I think the dirt/ oil on the molded top piece of the strut tower and maybe the angle or lighting makes it look like there's something extra there. Your second pic is a better angle.
 
Thanks I am far from an expert so appreciate questioning it.

Update though suspension settled and I do have a very minor run on the body mount in reverse full lock. Originally I wanted 0 offset but out of stock so went -12. Had my alignment done today and didn't improve. Either going to live with it or eventually do aftermarket UCA.

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk
 
Sorry to hear this. Give VLEDS Triton bulbs a shot, then affix differently and are bright and plug & play.

Also consider the Diode Dynamics receiver hitch light. It is also plug & play, offers a nice reverse light, brake, and tail light. No cutting.

I use both and they are fantastic.


Thanks! I’ll check those out. The stock bulbs are pretty bad!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks I am far from an expert so appreciate questioning it.

Update though suspension settled and I do have a very minor run on the body mount in reverse full lock. Originally I wanted 0 offset but out of stock so went -12. Had my alignment done today and didn't improve. Either going to live with it or eventually do aftermarket UCA.

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Don't rush out to get UCAs just yet. Tinkerer's Adventure's youtube channel has quite a bit of information about this.

Check this out.

4 Tips to ACTUALLY Fit Tires on Toyota IFS | 33s No BMC - YouTube
 

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