What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!

Yea, I'll throw in a front locker when I do the regear. Already have the compressor and everything from the rear locker so might as well. I just use OEM CVs. I have only broken 1 which is pretty good considering what I ask of them. If I start popping them every other time I go out, it may be worth it to switch to the RCVs but I can change a CV a lot easier than a ring and pinion so until I start having a problem, I'll keep the CV as the weak point in the system.

The biggest thing going from 33s to 35s is the amount you have to trim or remove from the wheel well but I think C4 is about to release their fitment template/kit at some point soon which will make that process a little easier.
-BMC, fender trim (plastic and metal) and pushing in the fender liner,
pinch welds need to be hammered, I had to do a washer reservoir
relocation, 3/4" bump extensions in the front.... if you haven't started
this process it will probably be a full day of cutting to get them fitted
properly but it really isn't all that bad. My fender trim is pretty ugly right
now but I'll get around to beautifying it in the future.

All I got right now with the 35s on vvv

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Looks awesome! This may be counter intuitive, but maybe with the front locker and 4:88’s/5:29’s the torque and displacement of it up front will be better with less chance of CV breakage. The 35’s are a large, heavy moment, especially in front. I know member Xtremeluck runs 35’s and does some serious off roading. You may want to check his build out. He has or is going to do the Rubicon. Jetboy has done the Rubicon on 34’s, IIRC.
I like the 11.50 width as compared to 12.50. Let us know how this works out.
I can’t drive cross country to get one of your rear bumpers. It’s one of my favorites.
 
Went and tried to flex the car out to see if I cut enough for the bmc I did. Looks like I’m plenty clear for the 33s I have on. Eventually when I adjust the clip on my 6112s I’ll take the time to cycle the suspension and see where else the front tire hits. I’m determined to have 0 rub.

This is with the front at full lock and as stuffed as I could get it:
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I can say I've officially joined the club today! '21 Nightshade :spy:

Already got some minor interior additions done - glove box and center console organizers, sunshade, etc. Next up is to install some of the Diode Dynamics interior bulbs and the trailer hitch mount LED pod. Then just gonna drive it and see what it needs. Down the road I'd like to do the TRD bumper swaps and throw on a Magnuson supercharger, but that will wait a bit.
 

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2014 SR5 with 336K miles. Transfer case input seal was leaking, so I pulled the transfer case. It dumped about a quart of gear oil when I split the transfer case from the transmission. Already purchased the transfer case input seal and rear housing seal, but when I saw the rear seal to the transmission, I knew that should be replaced while I’m in there. That seal will arrive Tuesday am at the local dealer.
 

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Went and switched out the 285/75s for 35x11.50s. Put it on the RTI ramp and everything clears so now just got to schedule a regear but torn between 5.29s and 4.88s. Nice Miami Vice style pic to commemorate

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I am going to be running 285/70/17s and am carrying a ton of weight, and tow a lot... I was thinking 4.56 would be good, but you're making me think about 4.88... (famous last words) I won't be going bigger tires, so I can't imagine needing 5.29.
 
Yesterday I upped my 6112s from clip 6/4 to 7/5. Went from 1.5” to 2”. Kinda interesting that the max setting on these only yielded me 2”. Anyways, it’s good enough for me and the ride didn’t change much. Also, I used the “no spring compressor method” and it’s a game changer. Way way easier than the other ways I’ve done it it in the past.

Today, I added Ironman 25mm spacers in the rear to compliment my eibach 1” coils. Kind of a pain to get the springs in but I’m happy with the height now.

The new height looks much better with the 285s and a can drive it a little harder now and it stays off the bump stops! Speaking of that, I also did energy suspension 8.9104g bumps in the front.

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2014 SR5 with 336K miles. Transfer case input seal was leaking, so I pulled the transfer case. It dumped about a quart of gear oil when I split the transfer case from the transmission. Already purchased the transfer case input seal and rear housing seal, but when I saw the rear seal to the transmission, I knew that should be replaced while I’m in there. That seal will arrive Tuesday am at the local dealer.

This is like the first "real" maintenance that I've seen on here in a long time. And look at that mileage! These vehicles are amazing. Makes my 191k mile 2011 look like a baby in comparison.

Do keep us updated (or start an independent thread), as some of us will need to follow your lead at some point.
 
This is like the first "real" maintenance that I've seen on here in a long time. And look at that mileage! These vehicles are amazing. Makes my 191k mile 2011 look like a baby in comparison.

Do keep us updated (or start an independent thread), as some of us will need to follow your lead at some point.

Yeah I often joke about the lack of posters with mechanical ability on these forums, but it is largely due to the reliability of these vehicles. Instead, most of the posts here are about installing rock sliders, lifts, shocks, roof racks, ladders, roof tents, etc. If I need an internet fix from good mechanics, I visit TheTruckStop.us where there is a bunch of good 6.5 diesel mechanics.

This 2014 4Runner gets used for the purpose it was bought for: Mainly highway miles back and forth between home in SoCal and ranch in Montana, with some off-road driving for geocaching and exploration. It is my wife’s truck and she accounts for most of the miles and she does it alone most of the time, so I need the ultimate in reliability.

I’ve always worked on my own cars. As a teenager it was out of financial necessity. Now it’s certainly not due to financial necessity. Rather, I enjoy the work and it’s a diversion from the day job. I derive satisfaction and love the independence it affords me in that I am not reliant on anyone to keep my vehicles running.

I could have paid a mechanic in Montana $912 labor only to do this job. My wife could have driven her 2023 ORP to SoCal and the 2014 would have been done when she got back to Montana. He does good work, but I know from experience that he would have not cleaned all the grease off the transfer case or the transmission. He just throws the repaired greasy pig back in the truck. So I did this job over the weekend while my wife was visiting life long friend in Texas. It will be ready for her to drive back to Montana at the end of this week.
 
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2014 SR5 with 336K miles. Transfer case input seal was leaking, so I pulled the transfer case. It dumped about a quart of gear oil when I split the transfer case from the transmission. Already purchased the transfer case input seal and rear housing seal, but when I saw the rear seal to the transmission, I knew that should be replaced while I’m in there. That seal will arrive Tuesday am at the local dealer.

Feel like making a dedicated thread for this? A few of us would appreciate it.

…Yeah I often joke about the lack of posters with mechanical ability on these forums, but it is largely due to the reliability of these vehicles. Instead, most of the posts here are about installing rock sliders, lifts, shocks, roof racks, ladders, roof tents, etc...
This!
 
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Had a break between meetings so I installed the transmission seal and the transfer case. Later on installed the drive shafts and filled her up with Mobil Delvac 75w90. Everything works great and it looks pretty clean under there.
 

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Went down to the dealership and drove off in one of these
 

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Matchbox model left by Vanna Runner on my T4R in Everett, WA. I always wanted one and thank you Vanna!

Just got the same on my 2016 yesterday in Lynnwood...

Thank you, Vanna!
Curtis
 

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