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Primer is porous by design and it will continue to rust. Need to seal it with some kind of paint, and you can sand that prime it then final paint later.
Today I took a little trip to the Pine Barrens, Wharton State Forest. Had a blast ! So this was my first time there. I went to Atsion Office. Picked up a map from them. They showed me the trails that are "legal" for off roading. But in no way should you rut out the trails. It's simply for the scene! If they catch you making holes and abusing the trails you will get into trouble! So I met a Forest Poilce officer. Who was very kind and kind enough to show me around Wharton. He took me to Apple Pie Hill, Batsto, Washington.... No better person then the actual park police showing you around the forest. After a while, we split up.
Fallowing him...
Washington Area, long long straight road.
Apple Pie Hill
Firewatch Tower at At Apple Pie Hill
Batsto Office/historic village. They have snacks, a small museum and hiking trails.
So later we just started exploring. And from what the Forest Police officer told me. Is that, any trail that leads into the woods from a local road, you are allowed to enter legally. Unless there is a SING THAT STATES OTHERWISE. Its simply, pay attention!
Railroad...
https://youtu.be/ufz7kiBGIIM
You watched the video right ? I'm going to say way above rocker panels. But because I kept moving. Nothing went inside. Although I love water crossing. I hate it to. That's probably as high as I ever would attempt
Water pump on, t-stat in and jiggle valve at 6 o'clock, timing belt on, heater control valve replaced.
I used a 4 seasons heater control valve. [MENTION=115590]StreetCreeper[/MENTION] NOT impressed with its quality. We'll see how long it lasts, there's always a couple of hose couplers in the tool box if trouble shows its ugly face.
My 21 year old Toyota heater control valve is still in decent shape except the lip on the left hose nipple is gone. Missing. No more. The part that's left looks a little crumbly, hopefully the bit that disappeared doesn't become an issue. Explains the minor coolant leak there.
[MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION] just messin' with you, assuming you were doing the same. If you weren't don't tell me.
Schley tensioner tool in action....if you use one compress it slowly, only turn until it's not easy, wait a little, do it again. Takes awhile but you'll avoid breaking the tensioner pulley bracket. It compressed pretty far before the pin would go in, as illustrated.
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So I can't recall all the details about timing belts but don't you only need the Schley tool if you are not replacing the hydraulic tensioner? Is there not a need to replace it each time?
Water pump on, t-stat in and jiggle valve at 6 o'clock, timing belt on, heater control valve replaced.
I used a 4 seasons heater control valve. [MENTION=115590]StreetCreeper[/MENTION] NOT impressed with its quality. We'll see how long it lasts, there's always a couple of hose couplers in the tool box if trouble shows its ugly face.
My 21 year old Toyota heater control valve is still in decent shape except the lip on the left hose nipple is gone. Missing. No more. The part that's left looks a little crumbly, hopefully the bit that disappeared doesn't become an issue. Explains the minor coolant leak there.
[MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION] just messin' with you, assuming you were doing the same. If you weren't don't tell me.
Schley tensioner tool in action....if you use one compress it slowly, only turn until it's not easy, wait a little, do it again. Takes awhile but you'll avoid breaking the tensioner pulley bracket. It compressed pretty far before the pin would go in, as illustrated.
![]()