What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[Toya!]

The master cylinder requires you to block off the fluid out connections with your fingers when you bench bleed them. You can't just route the output back into the reservoir. Did you do that?

I did, both on the bench and on the runner. Before I swapped the MC, the rears would only dribble out brake fluid. Now with the new MC, more fluid is definitely being pushed out. Going to try to bleed the entire system again tonight and double check the drums being adjusted as a last shot effort.

 

[Bad Luck]

I replaced my seat foam and have a thread about it somewhere here. 98 and older, or non-sport foam will not fill a sport fabric. I got junkyard foam that didn't fill the bolsters/wings. Vice versa, sport foam will not fit in non-sport fabric.

I ended up buying a used sport seat foam to re-stuff my seat. Passenger seats are usually less abused but they have an airbag sensor you won't use if you want to put in a driver seat. Not a big deal, just FYI.

I have not tried to buy from the dealer but there are several aftermarket foam options on eBay. IIRC, I had to move the spring rods as new foam doesn't come with those.

Hope that helps.


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You said 98 and older, do you know if it's the same for 99 and newer? I have an extra set of regular cloth seats, but I would really rather have new foam if I'm going through the effort.

 

[Bad Luck]

I did, both on the bench and on the runner. Before I swapped the MC, the rears would only dribble out brake fluid. Now with the new MC, more fluid is definitely being pushed out. Going to try to bleed the entire system again tonight and double check the drums being adjusted as a last shot effort.

Did you follow the procedure listed in the FSM excerpt that I attached to my last post towards you? There's an extra valve in the master cylinder that has to be bled that way.

 

[octanejunkie]

I did, both on the bench and on the runner. Before I swapped the MC, the rears would only dribble out brake fluid. Now with the new MC, more fluid is definitely being pushed out. Going to try to bleed the entire system again tonight and double check the drums being adjusted as a last shot effort.

Bleed the wheels in the " FSM correct" order to avoid capturing air at a junction/T

Passenger Rear
Driver Rear
Passenger Front
Driver Front

If you don't have speed bleeders I would gravity bleed one wheel at a time making sure to take the bleeder hose above the bleeder screw so air can't sneak in. You only need to crack the bleeder screw like 1/4 turn or less.

Pro Tip: if working alone, leave the cap on the master when you crack the bleeder and only open the master when you are standing in front of it - that way it can't drain quickly and you can manage the fluid level

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[MarkamisPrime]

This is my first vehicle with rear drums so I attempted best I could to adjust them. Hand brake pulls within the 5-9 clicks and no leaks within the drums. The rears will activate if I pump the brakes but that was before and after I put in a new (bench bled) master cylinder. I am also having ABS issues where I don't hear the pump come on.

I was following this thread Soft brake pedal

Replaced the ABS pump (before I knew you could pull abs specific codes) and am just completely stumped

Just go to HarborFreight and buy a cheap vacuum bleeder and be done with it.

 

[eddielasvegas]

Here's a pic of a regular cloth seat.


Eddie

They just look like regular cloth seats to me. What’s the difference?

EDIT: I should have phrased that differently. They look the same as the cloth seats (dimensionally) in my 2000 SR5 and I have not been able to find anyone stating sport seats are x inches of seat back side bolster protrusion over SR5 cloth seats. I also haven’t seen enough cloth seats from 01-02 to know if the sport cloth seat fabric was different from a base seat fabric.

The reason I’m looking for that information is to know if the seat bottom and back cushions for a sport seat will work with my base seat covers. The base seat cushions are unavailable. If the sport seat cushions are dimensionally different enough then my base seat covers aren’t going to fit correctly.

 

[repo]

Here's a pic of a regular cloth seat.


Eddie

Thanks man. Between this pic and the specs link from further up I figured out I do in fact have sport seats in my sr5 as a package option.

I now remember seeing something about a 'sport package' in the originating dealer VIN details for my vehicle on the Toyota Owners website. Always wondered what that meant exactly.

Toyota 4Runner History 1999

Sport Seat Package

Includes sport seat with hi-fabric, sport seat material, four-way adjustable headrests, cloth door trim, leather shift knob and leather steering wheel cover.

 

[Toya!]

For those that were keeping up with my braking issue, pulled the drums off last night to learn they were way too tight. Readjusted the drums, bled the master cylinder, and bled the system. It took my brother getting pissed off and pumping the brake pedal like a maniac to force a good amount of air out of the rear. Pedal and braking is feeling much better.

Drove her to work and will do a final bleed tonight. Feeling pretty accomplished but now to tackle my CEL :heh:

 

[octanejunkie]

For those that were keeping up with my braking issue, pulled the drums off last night to learn they were way too tight. Readjusted the drums, bled the master cylinder, and bled the system. It took my brother getting pissed off and pumping the brake pedal like a maniac to force a good amount of air out of the rear. Pedal and braking is feeling much better.



Drove her to work and will do a final bleed tonight. Feeling pretty accomplished but now to tackle my CEL :heh:

Pumping the brake pedal hard/fast actually can CREATE bubbles, or breaks up bubbles into micro-bubbles making it harder to fully bleed. The recommendation is to press smoothly and steadily and release the pedal the same way.

Hope that helps

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[repo]

Just go to HarborFreight and buy a cheap vacuum bleeder and be done with it.

This is how I've always done it every couple of years. Those pistol kit ones are like $25 at Autozone. You can thoroughly flush the whole thing quickly by yourself. I get tiny bubbles coming from the bleeder screw theads which is slightly disconcerting/annoying at first but you can tell when the real bubbles are all out and see the fresh dot4 coming through.

 

[cvan1971man]

Found another problem!

 

[JoeT4R]

Just did a drain and fill on the A340F. In went 4 quarts of AMSOIL signature series atf. Plan to start doing drain and fills more often, like [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] has stated. Mileage: 311,753
Also don’t plan to keep using the AMSOIL stuff because my pocket probably won’t allow it. Maybe I’ll use SuperTech or something in the future. I just had the AMSOIL stuff on hand

 

[clearock]

 

[Endlessblockades]

Just did a drain and fill on the A340F. In went 4 quarts of AMSOIL signature series atf. Plan to start doing drain and fills more often, like [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] has stated. Mileage: 311,753
Also don’t plan to keep using the AMSOIL stuff because my pocket probably won’t allow it. Maybe I’ll use SuperTech or something in the future. I just had the AMSOIL stuff on hand

I can't believe I'm saying this because I'm usually an oil snob, but I've running a drain and fill program with the Valvoline full synth ATF from Mal*Wart as it's about $17 a gallon.

 

[octanejunkie]

I can't believe I'm saying this because I'm usually an oil snob, but I've running a drain and fill program with the Valvoline full synth ATF from Mal*Wart as it's about $17 a gallon.

I did a complete ATF change with Valvoline High Mileage, no regrets and very affordable

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[octanejunkie]

Sent my old LBJs down to Anonymous Fabrication on Monday and they will be shipped back to me tomorrow

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[JoeT4R]

I can't believe I'm saying this because I'm usually an oil snob, but I've running a drain and fill program with the Valvoline full synth ATF from Mal*Wart as it's about $17 a gallon.

Well that makes two of us, bro! From 200K to 273K, I exclusively ran AMSOIL sig series 5W-30, then switched to Pennzoil platinum for about 7K miles, then to Pennzoil ultra platinum, which I’ve ran ever since then (2018?)

I recently discovered that Costco now has their own line of oil (Warren Distribution in the mfg) and has an unbeatable price tag, I bought 10 qts of 5W-30 and 10 qts of 0W-20 for $64. It’s full synthetic too. My wife’s civic takes the 0W-20. I plan to make the switch to it at my next oil change. But I digressed.

Whatever full synthetic atf at an affordable price will be what I use from here on out. I just had the AMSOIL stuff on hand and there’s no point in not using it, so yeah. $65 for 4 qts of ATF is too much for me, especially with kids now. So that’s a thing

 

[infamousRNR]

See attached.


Eddie

are these seat sections side specific? - also are these the "Sport" style cushions? the sport ones are nice because they have a higher bolster.




appreciate the info
.

 

[octanejunkie]

are these seat sections side specific? - also are these the "Sport" style cushions? the sport ones are nice because they have a higher bolster.









appreciate the info

.

They appear to be universal


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[Bad Luck]

are these seat sections side specific? - also are these the "Sport" style cushions? the sport ones are nice because they have a higher bolster.




appreciate the info
.

They work for left or right, and they're for Limited and Sport seats. The base/normal seat foams are discontinued. Do you currently have sport seats?