What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[Rushthezeppelin]

Just replaced my map and dome lights from an LED kit. Still a little perplexed what the other 8 bulbs in my kit go though. I think I got the dodofun kit off Amazon.

 

[96RedRunner]

Driving in the rain.
Cycling ABS, 4x4 Hi Lo, FF & RR lockers all passed. Yahoo!

 

[JoeT4R]

Just replaced my map and dome lights from an LED kit. Still a little perplexed what the other 8 bulbs in my kit go though. I think I got the dodofun kit off Amazon.

Let's see some pictures!!

Perhaps it's time for a build thread
Sent from my SM-T220 using Tapatalk

 

[JohnMc]

Took off the Savage skids today since the weather was nice, in prep for the new 4.88 diffs arriving soon.

And found they've been hiding a bit of oilyness under there. Looks like I've got a little oil pan leakage going on, perfect time to pull, clean, reseal it with the front diff out. And also some leaking from the oil cooler on the driver side of the motor, it has a couple of o-rings that hold the pressurized oil in, they get hard over time.

And the NWF doubler case was pretty dry, but the rear case seems like it's been leaking a little oil off the top side, couldn't quite see but I'd suspect it's coming out of the double stick shifter area. Not very much. I checked the oil levels in both boxes, the center doubler box was a little bit low, the rear transfer case was perhaps slightly overfull? It's possible there's some very slight leakage happening from the NWF box past the stock oil seal on the rear transfer case, overfilling it slightly, and thus a bit coming out the breather?

Either way, just a few ounces missing in the middle and extra in the rear, nothing to worry about.

I also took off the front sway bar, going to see if I dislike the way it drives enough to put it back on. It's a truck, it doesn't handle all that well with the 33.1" pizza cutter KM3's on it anyhow. Rear bar is staying on, in an attempt to balance out the front/rear articulation a bit more than it is currently, where the rear does 90% of it. In some cases it would be nice to have the truck split the difference between the front and rear, instead of always doing whatever the front wheels are.

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

Let's see some pictures!!

Perhaps it's time for a build thread
Sent from my SM-T220 using Tapatalk

I'll grab some soon. Super happy, pun intended though it's like night and day. I remember my rear some being almost useless for sorting through my tools before. Way way brighter now. Also found out the pack covers all the different varieties of bulbs over all the sub generations so some are just extra. Two were for my license plate though which I found out the ones in there were burnt out. Not sure how I never got pulled over. Anyway I replaced those so now no chances of dealing with that hassle. Really thinking about replacing the anemic reverse bulbs next. Not sure I want to go through and do a build thread at this point. Most of my stuff is well trodden territory. Only thing I'm working on that's not commonplace is the radio vent swap bezel mod and I've got a thread for that.

 

[96 ToyRunner]

Got a build thread? Pictures from the job?

I don’t I took it to a guy I know due to the fact he has a shop and we’re drowning in rain here in Alabama

 

[96RedRunner]

Cleaned and silicone lubed my power antenna.

 

[Ryl4nj]

I was hoping someone could help with an issue I'm having. I have a 2002 t4r sr5 and it's had a bad bank 1 sensor 1 that has thrown me a cel for quite a while. Just yesterday I started it up but the cel shut off and it stated idling really low and rough (around 500 rpm) I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and when I started it up the cel came back for the bad sensor and started driving fine like before. Fast forward to this morning and it started without the cel and was running rough once again sensor has been disconnected for a year and I haven't messed with it recently any ideas would be great thank you!

 

[JoeT4R]

I was hoping someone could help with an issue I'm having. I have a 2002 t4r sr5 and it's had a bad bank 1 sensor 1 that has thrown me a cel for quite a while. Just yesterday I started it up but the cel shut off and it stated idling really low and rough (around 500 rpm) I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and when I started it up the cel came back for the bad sensor and started driving fine like before. Fast forward to this morning and it started without the cel and was running rough once again sensor has been disconnected for a year and I haven't messed with it recently any ideas would be great thank you!

First I would plug in a code reader to retrieve any other codes your engine might be having. Second, if you want the Denso p/n for the upstream (B1S1) sensor, it's 234-9002. You can typically buy it from Amazon or RockAuto.

For any sensors, spark plugs, other Denso components, just type into Google "Denso find my part" and click on the U.S. website. Plug in your vehicle's info and voila. You have all the Denso part numbers you could ever ask for.

 

[96 ToyRunner]

Did a drain and fill at 370,853

 

[fatherohenry]

Yesterday I changed the oil, lubed some zerks, replaced the fan clutch, fixed my rear passenger seat, and redid some wiring connections. Today, battery and all wiper blades.

For 18 months I'd been unable to pull up the rear seat bottom after tightening the bolts. This time I installed the bolts with the hinges open instead of with the seat in place like I'd done previously. Now the seat operates just fine. Duh.

I tore into the dash to triple check my wiring for a trans temp gauge. Gauge was returning to its default color on 3 out of 4 starts. I'd been reading at least 12.7 on the battery and hadn't been experiencing any hard starts so I didn't suspect my 5 year old battery of being bad. It even read 12.5 or higher when starting. But I only checked after I'd been driving. I checked it first thing this morning and it read 12.5. 2 hours later it read 12.3. Then 12.1. Replacing the battery fixed the gauge color issue and I bet it solved my random triple honking issue, too. Duh.

 

[clearock]

 

[chapolito]

Got the second coat on today. I think I'm going to stick with this since it's not super critical that it be a durable paint job on this part. Also had fun with the paint mask after I realized I could Bane post with it on lol. Bushings go in tomorrow once they dry, hoping that part goes smoothly since they are sitting in my deep freezer currently to keep them shrunken. I know some have reported that they drop right in with no pressing if you get them cold enough. If not I have a bench vice and the big pair of channel locks to use as a ghetto press sleeve per Tim's video.

Looking good! I'm in the process of doing the exact same thing. Was thinking of using VHT roll bar and chassis paint + a coat of cosmoline over it. Got lucky and the cam bolts came out easy in the junkyard. Suspect I'll be taking the reciprocating saw to mine.

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

Looking good! I'm in the process of doing the exact same thing. Was thinking of using VHT roll bar and chassis paint + a coat of cosmoline over it. Got lucky and the cam bolts came out easy in the junkyard. Suspect I'll be taking the reciprocating saw to mine.

Better to expect it and be prepared. Going to have to borrow one to get my two stuck ones out when I get to installing my arms. Going to probably aim to get the job done on Saturday. Hopefully it goes quick and I can rush in for an alignment. Found out one an acquaintance who I met when I had my previous vehicle (he used to work for a Nissan delearship and I just found out yesterday my roommate is in a band with him) works at brakes + now and he knows how to align these trucks well so I'm going to take it in to him when I go in for the alignment.

 

[Zhehan]

I have been dealing with a vibration in the rear that I knew wasn't bad U-Joints. I suspected the upper links since the SPC lower links are new.

I bought a set of Mevotech Supreme Rear Upper Links from RockAuto. They arrived today and I installed them after dinner. I took it for a drive and right out of the driveway I could instantly tell a difference. There is a sizable speed hump right outside my driveway with a manhole sized drain that is inset a bit into the road on one side and dip in the road on the other, diagonally opposed to one another. The 4Runner has to articulate quite a bit over this hump because of those dips on either side. The rear felt flexier as I went over this routine obstacle and the truck body stayed more level. It was an odd sensation since I've gone over that hump countless times and the difference was huge compared to the old links. It's a much bigger difference than I was expecting.

During the test drive, I went onto the highway and directional stability is also improved quite a bit. There is a lot of road crown here in the wet PNW. Plus there are grooves worn into the roads right now and the truck would tend to wander in and out of the grooves before. Not now. Best $92.77 I've spent on the truck.

The right rear brake shoes were rubbing a bit too much as well, so I adjusted that and all the vibrations are gone.

Picture below comparing a stock link to the Mevotech Supreme model. We'll see how they hold up. They look great and felt like quality.

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

I have been dealing with a vibration in the rear that I knew wasn't bad U-Joints. I suspected the upper links since the SPC lower links are new.

I bought a set of Mevotech Supreme Rear Upper Links from RockAuto. They arrived today and I installed them after dinner. I took it for a drive and right out of the driveway I could instantly tell a difference. There is a sizable speed hump right outside my driveway with a manhole sized drain that is inset a bit into the road on one side and dip in the road on the other, diagonally opposed to one another. The 4Runner has to articulate quite a bit over this hump because of those dips on either side. The rear felt flexier as I went over this routine obstacle and the truck body stayed more level. It was an odd sensation since I've gone over that hump countless times and the difference was huge compared to the old links. It's a much bigger difference than I was expecting.

During the test drive, I went onto the highway and directional stability is also improved quite a bit. There is a lot of road crown here in the wet PNW. Plus there are grooves worn into the roads right now and the truck would tend to wander in and out of the grooves before. Not now. Best $92.77 I've spent on the truck.

The right rear brake shoes were rubbing a bit too much as well, so I adjusted that and all the vibrations are gone.

Picture below comparing a stock link to the Mevotech Supreme model. We'll see how they hold up. They look great and felt like quality.

Hmm I'm also suspecting my rear bushings are worn out (still have stock uppers and lowers at 278k). I definitely can feel my back end wanting to wander on me especially when making a right hand turn I get some wonky rear steer. Was kind of thinking about doing poly bushings but I have heard some reports that they are so stiff that they can tear the mounts off if you wheel hard enough. This is tempting for sure.

 

[Zhehan]

Hmm I'm also suspecting my rear bushings are worn out (still have stock uppers and lowers at 278k). I definitely can feel my back end wanting to wander on me especially when making a right hand turn I get some wonky rear steer. Was kind of thinking about doing poly bushings but I have heard some reports that they are so stiff that they can tear the mounts off if you wheel hard enough. This is tempting for sure.

As someone who has dealt with that a few times as I've worn out bushings on the rear links, I can say with confidence that yours are shot. I replaced both rear lowers and uppers twice with factory parts. I have a full time rear locker and it's hard on parts.

I have a biased opinion, because I own the following parts, but I would suggest getting the SPC 25945 Lower Links and the Mevotech Supreme Upper Links for your truck. You can thank me later.

Here is the best price for the SPC links that I am aware of and it's where I bought mine: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...e7/specialty-products-control-arm/spp0/25945/

And, here's the Mevotech Supreme Upper Links at RockAuto: More Information for MEVOTECH CMS861168

For the sake of thoroughness, here's the Mevotech Supreme Lower Links if the SPCs are out of your budget: More Information for MEVOTECH CMS861170

Here's what the bushings in my lower links looked like last June:

 

[Bad Luck]

As someone who has dealt with that a few times as I've worn out bushings on the rear links, I can say with confidence that yours are shot. I replaced both rear lowers and uppers twice with factory parts. I have a full time rear locker and it's hard on parts.

I have a biased opinion, because I own the following parts, but I would suggest getting the SPC 25945 Lower Links and the Mevotech Supreme Upper Links for your truck. You can thank me later.

Here is the best price for the SPC links that I am aware of and it's where I bought mine: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...e7/specialty-products-control-arm/spp0/25945/

And, here's the Mevotech Supreme Upper Links at RockAuto: More Information for MEVOTECH CMS861168

For the sake of thoroughness, here's the Mevotech Supreme Lower Links if the SPCs are out of your budget: More Information for MEVOTECH CMS861170

Here's what the bushings in my lower links looked like last June:

Did you compare the mounting point distance between the OEM upper control arms and the Mevotech? The Mevotech upper control arms show they "fit" 2wd and 4wd 4Runners, but 2wd upper control arms are shorter than 4wd upper control arms in order to change the pinion angle for the different driveshaft designs.

 

[Zhehan]

Did you compare the mounting point distance between the OEM upper control arms and the Mevotech? The Mevotech upper control arms show they "fit" 2wd and 4wd 4Runners, but 2wd upper control arms are shorter than 4wd upper control arms in order to change the pinion angle for the different driveshaft designs.

They bolted right in without any difficulty. They list the basic dimensions on the RockAuto website. You can use the Parts Catalog on Mevotech's website to confirm the fit: CMS861168 - Control Arm - Mevotech

They do say that they fit both 4WD/RWD vehicles... They are not the shorter 2WD models, that is for sure. I received a pair of those once years ago.

EDIT 03/31/2023: This picture below is a reference to me receiving the WRONG parts years ago. These are NOT the Mevotech Supreme arms I received yesterday.

 

[3bears]

They bolted right in without any difficulty. They list the basic dimensions on the RockAuto website. You can use the Parts Catalog on Mevotech's website to confirm the fit: CMS861168 - Control Arm - Mevotech

They do say that they fit both 4WD/RWD vehicles... They are not the shorter 2WD models, that is for sure. I received a pair of those once years ago.

the ones on the left look shorter to me, i assume thats what you got years ago that were wrong ?