What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[AuSeeker]

I have checked the wiring and it seems to be good, it has no symptoms of a bad knock sensor. I just don’t have the time or money to do a job like that.

Uhhhh, the first symptom of a bad knock sensor is throwing the p0325 code, other symptoms aren't always present for a bad knock sensor or can come about later.

You can replace it or not that's up to you, it can however possibly do some serious damage to the engine or it could be fine, really not worth the risk IMHO!

I doubt the issue/code is going to go away unless you address the cause.

 

[GhostRing]

Trying to get a properly functioning brake system going,
so installed the ol' "Scamazon special" brake booster.

So far, I'm....not really sure if it's worth it?
The install went rather smoothly, but the check valves
are different size (OEM is larger dia.) so I couldn't re-use
my newish Toyota one. The rubber grommet is also
way cheaper feeling. I even had to trim the vacuum hose to fit it.
(Gotta save that $500 markup somehow..!)

The biggest issue is the brakes feel even harder now.

Now, this could be my imagination, but with my TBU I would assume
the throw would be longer and a little more..progressive?
The pedal comes on really early and doesn't have the modulation
I was kind of expecting given the condition of the original booster.

This might get returned unless there is something else I am missing?

Also pictured are my new favorit-est Igarashi IPS Hyper Long Pliers.
Super nice for hose clamps and other hard to get connections.
Highly recommended!

 

[2TH4IST]

When I did just the tbu and still had rear drums, the pedal was a bit mushy, or progressive as it's called.

Maybe your old booster was bad, and you just got used to it. And now the new one is functioning normally and feels firmer. Does it feel like it's assisting or does it feel like there is no vacuum assist? Does the booster loose its vacuum with engine off and a few pumps of the pedal.

Did you need to adjust the boosters plunger (one that goes into the master)? It could be pushing the master in a bit thus a more firm pedal?

 

[GhostRing]

When I did just the tbu and still had rear drums, the pedal was a bit mushy, or progressive as it's called.

Maybe your old booster was bad, and you just got used to it. And now the new one is functioning normally and feels firmer. Does it feel like it's assisting or does it feel like there is no vacuum assist? Does the booster loose its vacuum with engine off and a few pumps of the pedal.

Did you need to adjust the boosters plunger (one that goes into the master)? It could be pushing the master in a bit thus a more firm pedal?

The pedal does firm up properly with the engine off and drops upon start.
When driving, I would perhaps initially describe it as lack of vacuum,
but not close to the panicky wtf-is-up-with-my-brakes sensation.

I spent a fair amount of time making sure the plunger and pedal bracket
matched the old booster - which as far as I can tell is original, so I
hope I did a good job, but don't forget my sigline...

It may just be the "new sneaker effect" where I was so used to
old ones, I forgot what a fresh pair feels like!

I really just did the install and drove a few miles home, so I will give it
the rest of the weekend to see what's what.

 

[pa_robert]

New Years Eve (and then Day) I got two wheels painted. Last Sat night/Sunday I got the other two done.

Tonight I removed the old rusty rear bumper and sides. Heat was extremely helpful, as well as PB blaster. Only broke three of the rear mudflap bolts and only one of the bumper "y" support bolts needed the small angle grinder to set it free.

Tomorrow she's getting a new rear bumper.

2000 SR5, 4x4, 3.4L, SafTCap poster child. Looks great on top. Underneath is freaking horrible.

 

[3bears]

.......
It may just be the "new sneaker effect" where I was so used to
old ones, I forgot what a fresh pair feels like!

I really just did the install and drove a few miles home, so I will give it
the rest of the weekend to see what's what.

agree give it a few days

 

[Endlessblockades]

Koyorad and Iconic Fab trans cooler bracket installed

If my company knew what I get up to in the parking lot on the weekends, I'm not sure if they'd approve! I probably shouldn't be allowed to work on vehicles at all :wow: it always turns into a yard sale. Since I had my previous trans cooler running in series, I didn't have to pull the 25 year old factory trans lines off the metal lines until now. Holy hell that was an adventure - plus it was dark by then, as I left that plumbing until the end. The funny thing I wanted to mention was that a co-worker did drive by and and asked "Do you need a jumpstart?" I wanted to say 'I need a lot more than that that, lady....' but politely declined.

Picture upload is failing....will try another way.

 

[rglsr]

Complete front/rear brake job with OEM Toyota parts, plus fluid flush.
Parts stash in the garage is nearly gone!

 

[GhostRing]

Decided the click/clack of the Johnny Joints needed to be addressed.
Lil' diy with a big ol' mudflap yielded a few washers that hopefully last.

I'm only doing the upper/frame joints as they have the least clearance
and I assume they are the ones making the noise. If not, I'll just pop
'em out again and make some more for the lowers.

I don't think it will pressure the joint to the point the jam nut is getting
affected, but I'll keep an eye on it. I also tightened down the zerk more.

 

[NenIviri]

Not today but fairly recently

First time 3rd gen owner, got to work on the spark plugs and found that they weren't properly torqued to spec and were also autolite. No wonder I had a misfire, went and replaced them with Denso Iridium TT's and now the thing moves much nicer!

 

[OpenYota]

Installed a 1/4" spacer on the drivers side front strut due to lean; it definitely helped a little bit but still have some small lean angle.

Did not take measurements but all is good for now until I get a better front suspension setup.
One thing I am a little peeved about though is that the spacer was $8 from wheelers but the shipping for that little thing was $25! Crazy.

Also bought a drivers side CV axle from NAPA and will install when the weather warms up a little bit, the inner boot on the axle currently installed has been ripped for about a year :rip:

 

[FD7683]

Nothing really, just cleaned up the corrosion on the terminals using a wire wheel/drill and sprayed the undercarriage and body. 250k and very stout, rarely have to look over the 4Runner my other cars keep me busy over the weekend.

 

[KD5NRH]

Driver side rear window didn't work when I got it. No big deal, generally, since the back window works great if I need to air it out while driving, but then I ran across the last aftermarket cheapie window motor that happened to be the one I needed on clearance for $10.

Of course, I didn't pay attention to which way it was gong relative to the switch until I got around to putting the door card back on and mounting the switch. Then I realized it's backwards: up rolls it down, and down rolls it up. Same from the driver controls, so the pins are swapped on the motor plug.

I'm sure I can pop the pins out of the plug and swap them, but honestly it'll probably never matter enough to bother with unless I have to take that door apart again for something. The only time I can recall wanting that window down was when I was sitting in the car for a while during a camping trip, and had the slip-over screens for the back windows that would have let me get a breeze through without bugs. That will probably come up again, but using the switch backwards isn't much of a hardship.

Moral of the story: remember to check everything before you reassemble the door and pay attention to whether something might be backwards.

 

[pa_robert]

Got a friend for the other two 3rd gen's I have. No, I am not collecting them. It's just some running projects for me and my friend. You know, idle hands are the devil's workshop. And sometimes he has idle hands.

Anyway 1999 plain 4wd SR5 with 187K miles. No locker or supercharger. Frame isn't too bad. It will need some SafTCap's.

Has a 3" rough country lift, which will be R&R with OME/Bilsteins. Radiator just replaced with a cheap one but they installed an external tranny cooler. Front brakes are recent and rears look relatively good. Reman'ed rack pinion. TB and WP job done 12,000 miles ago. Some other front end work including LBJ's. (I need to verify if they are OEM)

Another positive aspect is that a lot of work was done to the suspension (front and rear) and other work in general. So if my friend and I get into things, we will not be fighting so many rusted and seized nuts/bolts/fasteners.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Aftermarket fan shroud fits Koyorad well

Just FYI - Installed a $50 eBay fan shroud and it fit a heck of a lot better against the Koyorad radiator than the OEM one it replaced. I had a 1/3" gap with the OEM unit. Wierd.

This is kind of pathetic, but over the last 6 months I have replaced, in reverse order - the fan shroud, the radiator, the fan clutch (2 different new Aisin units) the fan, the thermostat (2 times), the upper and lower hoses (why not - now I have spares) and 2 different OEM radiator caps of different pressures. The thing runs nice and cool (186-188) with any real airflow but still gets a bit hot (195 and even higher, but I turn the heater on to drop it bc it stresses me out) in traffic/city driving. Sometimes the transmission will join in too, other times it doesn't give a hoot. Can't explain that - the Koyorad is for a manual trans. New strainer, fluid, cooler and hoses, there, too. I haven't had a real problem off road in 4-lo but I'm planning to do a pretty extensive trip the first week of Feb and need to putt along in the desert (without the heater on although it's unusually cold this year!!). I have burped the system every time I pulled a hose off, etc. We shall see..... I'm going to the desert no matter what.

 

[phattyduck]

The thing runs nice and cool (186-188) with any real airflow but still gets a bit hot (195 and even higher, but I turn the heater on to drop it bc it stresses me out) in traffic/city driving.

Why does 195*F stress you out? Part of the factory test procedure for the thermostat runs at 95*C/203*F - that's when the thermostat is supposed to be fully open. Anything below maybe 215*F is still 100% safe - remember that coolant doesn't boil until something like 240*F and the stock dash gauge doesn't even move from the middle until then. If it is regularly getting above 200*F, there may be something to fix (though that still leaves a ton of safe headroom), but anything below that is totally normal.

Also, while the thermostat is set 85*C, that is controlling the water INLET temperature to the engine. When the engine is working hard making more waste heat, the temperature sensor will show the engine temperature rise a bit, since that sensor is on the OUTLET of the engine. So, in other words, the coolant is removing more heat from your engine, just like you want it to.

Sounds like everything is just fine...

-Charlie

 

[2TH4IST]

That shroud does look better. I'd say your just fine w/those Temps. I'm running 193/195 and I have a plate front bumper, wench, and a few lights with a nice big trans cooler. So lots of stuff to go through before the air hits the rad.

Fan kicks on and pulls serious air, I did replace oem fan clutch w/aisin unit.

What condition is your ac condenser? Mine was about 60% blocked from collapsed fins due to corrosion.

I'm due to change coolant, so I'll go a little less coolant and a bit more water. Something like 60/40.

As for what I did on the 4runner, I stared at him. Lots of parts piling up. But this pneumonia is really kicking my butt.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Why does 195*F stress you out? Part of the factory test procedure for the thermostat runs at 95*C/203*F - that's when the thermostat is supposed to be fully open. Anything below maybe 215*F is still 100% safe - remember that coolant doesn't boil until something like 240*F and the stock dash gauge doesn't even move from the middle until then. If it is regularly getting above 200*F, there may be something to fix (though that still leaves a ton of safe headroom), but anything below that is totally normal.

Also, while the thermostat is set 85*C, that is controlling the water INLET temperature to the engine. When the engine is working hard making more waste heat, the temperature sensor will show the engine temperature rise a bit, since that sensor is on the OUTLET of the engine. So, in other words, the coolant is removing more heat from your engine, just like you want it to.

Sounds like everything is just fine...

-Charlie

Thanks - I needed to hear that from someone who knows what they're talking about. I'm not a mechanic - just a part-swapper and the industry must love my type......sigh. I have been on a roller-coaster with long periods of stable cool temps mixed with 215s in the middle of a foggy night for no apparent reason. Sometimes the tranny also rises in solidarity, other times it doesn't give a hoot.The Koyorad is for a manual so that makes no sense. I typed a similar reply 15 mins ago but I don't see it in this thread, so if this is redundant - sorry about that!

 

[2TH4IST]

If your Temps are jumping all over the place it might be the coolant temp sensor on the front of the engine. The one in the back is for the gauge.

 

[Endlessblockades]

If your Temps are jumping all over the place it might be the coolant temp sensor on the front of the engine. The one in the back is for the gauge.

In my case I can see the heat waves shimmering starting at 195 and the radiator and engine are both noticeably hotter to the touch. I'm just going to enjoy the ride since I've already thrown all the parts at it that I could put on myself. Gonna check out King of the Hammers for one or 2 days, but otherwise be alone for a week - yee-hah!!