What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[Unner]

Changed my Oil and....my sweet little Jade decided to become a member of the "Torn CV Boot Club." You guys did not have to let her in you know! Being turned away at the door would have been fine with me.

It was bound to happen; 15 year old rubber CV boot - check, one year after the lift - check, 285's on 17 inch wheels - check, throwing some miles on it both on and off road - check. Yup, the "Members Only" club just dragged her right on in.

So now for the fun. First comes the band aid fix, some shoe goo, self adhesive rubber tape and lady luck. Done Next comes the suspension upgrade:

• PRIORITY ONE - Keep my OEM axles if they're still OK, or have someone rebuild my OEM axles.
• LCA's with poly bushings
• New and improved spindles either going all out or TC reinforced
• Extended inner and outer boots - Just Ordered!
  
• New bump stops
• New links

Isn't it funny how priorities change...BTW I'm not laughing.

Hmmmm to uniball or not to uniball? That is the question.

What bumpstops did you go with? I assume you're talking about the front. Up there I would recommend the wheelers super bumps. Those poly bump stops that look just like the stock ones aren't really much good.

 

[tx_shooter]

I had to stop my Big Bend prep to replace the alternator and do an oil change. If she is done requiring special attention I will get back to the trip prep.

 

[Rock_Rat]

[MENTION=116467]Rock_Rat[/MENTION] if you go with poly bushings spend the extra and get whitelines. I bought energy and coudn't install them since they don't come with new inner sleeves and my old sleeves were destroyed. I had to have napa installed since I didn't have another choice

Thanks for the insight. I was putting my list together yesterday and couldn't figure out which ones to go with. I've never read anything good on this forum about energy suspension. I've done all i could to stay away from them. Added to the list!

 

[Rock_Rat]

What bumpstops did you go with? I assume you're talking about the front. Up there I would recommend the wheelers super bumps. Those poly bump stops that look just like the stock ones aren't really much good.

Thanks [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION], those are the exact ones I went with. I'm a bit puzzled as to why they only come with one per side. My LCA's have two on each side for even distribution of the LCA when it contacts the stops. Toyota went through the trouble of having two stops per LCA and mine are even labeled "F" and "R". Oh well, I ordered two sets yesterday. Good enough for Toyota, good enough for me.

It's not a priority but looking to change out the rear stops too. Not sure if I should go with the 3" Toytec adapters or something else like the bilstein. BTW, the band-aid fix looks good so far. Trying to decide if I should reboot with the new extended boots on their way here (I ordered bith inner and outer extended boots last night) or just pull the trigger on new OEM axles, install with OEM boots, and send the boots back or rebuild the ones that come off and save them for the next time. Tough decision right now. Funny thing is I have one inch diff drop. I wasn't expecting a tear so soon.

 

[Unner]

Thanks [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION], those are the exact ones I went with. I'm a bit puzzled as to why they only come with one per side. My LCA's have two on each side for even distribution of the LCA when it contacts the stops. Toyota went through the trouble of having two stops per LCA and mine are even labeled "F" and "R". Oh well, I ordered two sets yesterday. Good enough for Toyota, good enough for me.

It's not a priority but looking to change out the rear stops too. Not sure if I should go with the 3" Toytec adapters or something else like the bilstein. BTW, the band-aid fix looks good so far. Trying to decide if I should reboot with the new extended boots on their way here (I ordered bith inner and outer extended boots last night) or just pull the trigger on new OEM axles, install with OEM boots, and send the boots back or rebuild the ones that come off and save them for the next time. Tough decision right now. Funny thing is I have one inch diff drop. I wasn't expecting a tear so soon.

[MENTION=116467]Rock_Rat[/MENTION]

I would only go with one set of the wheelers bumpstops. You will have to run them on the front part of the LCA, they won't sit properly on the rear part. They hang off too much to be effective. You also want to keep one of the stock bumpstops as a final limit on compression as well, this will be the rear one on the LCA. The front bumpstops are larger than the rear ones in diameter, that's why they are labeled front and rear. Here's a bit from my build thread on the super bump install.

I also got the wheelers superbumps installed up front. I know earlier in the thread I said that I called wheelers and they said to put the bumps on the rear of the LCA, but when I did this they didn't seem to sit very well back there. The rear of the LCA is skinnier than the front and a good bit of the bump was hanging off so I decided to put the stock one back on the back and put the new wheelers ones on the front of the LCA.

This made easy work of taking the stock bumpstops off. I wear a 13 in Nike's...


Installed on Front:



Installed on Rear:



You can see how much better they fit on the front of the LCA versus the rear.

As for the rear, here's a shameless plug for a couple of extended bumpstops I have for sale right now. :sorry: They work perfect to keep you from over compressing your shocks and blowing them out when flexed. Let me know if you're interested in a set.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-...-rear-bump-stops-3rd-gen-al-$105-shipped.html

 

[SilvFx]

Changed my Oil and....my sweet little Jade decided to become a member of the "Torn CV Boot Club." You guys did not have to let her in you know! Being turned away at the door would have been fine with me.

It was bound to happen; 15 year old rubber CV boot - check, one year after the lift - check, 285's on 17 inch wheels - check, throwing some miles on it both on and off road - check. Yup, the "Members Only" club just dragged her right on in.

So now for the fun. First comes the band aid fix, some shoe goo, self adhesive rubber tape and lady luck. Done Next comes the suspension upgrade:

• PRIORITY ONE - Keep my OEM axles if they're still OK, or have someone rebuild my OEM axles.
• LCA's with poly bushings
• New and improved spindles either going all out or TC reinforced
• Extended inner and outer boots - Just Ordered!
  
• New bump stops
• New links

Isn't it funny how priorities change...BTW I'm not laughing.

Hmmmm to uniball or not to uniball? That is the question.

RockRat just went through this on 99 4Runner. You may already know this but Toyota offers an OEM reman CV axle that you can pickup for approx $150 plus refundable $75 core charge. The $150 is the discounted price from many of the online OEM parts retailers. I happened to find a dealer here in the Denver area that has an online parts business (Stevinson Toyota East) and got them to price match their online price and was able to deal with it locally.

I do see that you already ordered replacement boots, but given that your CV axles are 15 years old, perhaps you want to install rebuilt ones rather than just servicing the boots.

Just throwing ideas out there for you. Nothing wrong with your approach.

 

[Motohead]

My buddy and I finished water pump/timing belts on our 4Runners at 5:30am this morning. Started at 8:30am yeasterday...

 

[Cree]

Ordered TBU upgrade and spacers.

 

[orbot]

Did this!

 

[Rock_Rat]

[MENTION=116467]Rock_Rat[/MENTION]

I would only go with one set of the wheelers bumpstops. Here's a bit from my build thread on the super bump install...As for the rear, here's a shameless plug for a couple of extended bumpstops I have for sale right now.

Thanks. Still curious as to why Wheelers doesn't make a matched set. I'll ask them when I call them on Monday to cancel the extra set I ordered. And hey, not a shameless plug at all! I would much rather support our local peeps than the big businesses. I'll PM you. Thanks for the info!

RockRat just went through this on 99 4Runner. You may already know this but Toyota offers an OEM reman CV axle that you can pickup for approx $150 plus refundable $75 core charge. The $150 is the discounted price from many of the online OEM parts retailers. I happened to find a dealer here in the Denver area that has an online parts business (Stevinson Toyota East) and got them to price match their online price and was able to deal with it locally.

I do see that you already ordered replacement boots, but given that your CV axles are 15 years old, perhaps you want to install rebuilt ones rather than just servicing the boots.

Just throwing ideas out there for you. Nothing wrong with your approach.

Thanks [MENTION=132311]SilvFx[/MENTION] I've been doing my homework. Before I order axles online I'll swing by my local dealer and talk to Brock. I'm not sure how much he'll give them to me for? I usually get 20% off. I'm leaning on two reman #43430-35030-84 with OEM boots. I agree with you. I hate to install new boots on 15 year old axles. My other option is NW Yotashop. They're only a few miles down the road from me. They might have OEM reman axles cheaper than the dealer and I might have them throw the extended boots on them while I'm at work. Sell the OEM boots.

I'll throw this in my build thread. Don't want to clutter up this thread.

Definitely appreciate your input guys. I'm always open to ideas and suggestions.

 

[NWFLBowhunter]

Replaced my brake master cylinder.... Hopefully that fixed my sudden loss of brakes on the way home tonight.

Well, that only fixed half the problem and created a domino effect. Walked into the garage this morning to find a puddle of brake fluid by the rear axle. Pulled the wheel and drum to find the wheel/brake cylinder had busted. So, new shoes, springs, drums and wheel cylinders on both sides now. Not really how I wanted to start my Sunday. Brakes work great now. I'm guessing the master cylinder went out, the new one put more pressure than the 18 year old wheel cylinders could handle. Next on the list is TBU once my wheels come in

 

[Bstrom]

Kenwood Excelon Going In...

Copped this DD head unit off Crutchfield for $200 shipped with free connector. Has a lot of great features for the money. Kenwood is supposed to have superior Bluetooth tech. That and a bunch of sound controls have made this a popular Kenwood model. Will try to do an install report...

Kenwood Excelon DPX791BH CD receiver at Crutchfield.com

 

[Unner]

Thanks. Still curious as to why Wheelers doesn't make a matched set. I'll ask them when I call them on Monday to cancel the extra set I ordered. And hey, not a shameless plug at all! I would much rather support our local peeps than the big businesses. I'll PM you. Thanks for the info!

Good stuff, just let me know. I've got two sets left.

 

[zgensler31]

Copped this DD head unit off Crutchfield for $200 shipped with free connector. Has a lot of great features for the money. Kenwood is supposed to have superior Bluetooth tech. That and a bunch of sound controls have made this a popular Kenwood model. Will try to do an install report...

Kenwood Excelon DPX791BH CD receiver at Crutchfield.com

I've had that same unit for about a year and a half and love it. Well worth the money. Best bang for your buck imo

 

[Beaumont67]

Went to see my 2000 4Runner SR5, v6-4x4, auto, I'm picking up sometime this week.
Currently getting repair items fixed for safety check, at garage & E-tested:
- Walker muffler
- Moog lower ball joints
- both rear axle seals & ceramic brake shoes
- synthetic oil change / engine, rear axle, transfer case

^^ One owner, rust free/original paint survivor, with only 80,xxx miles - always dealer maintained...a true time capsule !!
- dealer already replaced the timing belt, water pump & added four BF Goodrich 16" tires for senior, before he purchased his brand new Toyota Highlander

 

[NWFLBowhunter]

Had a terrible vibration start tonight while pushing the gas pedal. Crawled under to find the double cardan ujoints is shot. Hopefully it rains tomorrow so I can go check the salvage yard.

 

[Rock_Rat]

Went to see my 2000 4Runner SR5, v6-4x4, auto, I'm picking up this week.
Currently getting safety checked, at garage:
- Walker muffler
- Moog lower ball joints
- rear axle seals & ceramic brake shoes
^^ One senior owner, rust free/original paint survivor, with 80,xxx miles - always dealer maintained...a true time capsule !!

Be sure and be thorough about checking this one out. Red flags are flying for me. i'm an original owner and have more than 320k after 15 years. I still have the original muffler, didn't change out my LBJ's until 310K after I found about the problem with them, and never had to replace rear axle seals. Your door sillplate looks pretty beat up in the pic. Also noticed the little plastic cover that goes over your seat bolts on the floor is missing. At 80K, mine was still in showroom condition. I'm curious as to why he changed out the LBJ's.

 

[Unner]

Be sure and be thorough about checking this one out. Red flags are flying for me. i'm an original owner and have more than 320k after 15 years. I still have the original muffler, didn't change out my LBJ's until 310K after I found about the problem with them, and never had to replace rear axle seals. Your door sillplate looks pretty beat up in the pic. Also noticed the little plastic cover that goes over your seat bolts on the floor is missing. At 80K, mine was still in showroom condition. I'm curious as to why he changed out the LBJ's.

Same things I was thinking. The motor looks pretty dirty as well as the brackets in there that are starting to show rust. Also Moog LBJs are a big no no. Search around the forum for just a little bit and you'll see that OEM are the only way to go with the LBJs. When they fail they fail catastrophically.

 

[Beaumont67]

Same things I was thinking. The motor looks pretty dirty as well as the brackets in there that are starting to show rust. Also Moog LBJs are a big no no. Search around the forum for just a little bit and you'll see that OEM are the only way to go with the LBJs. When they fail they fail catastrophically.

Thanks Rock_Rat and Unner, on the heads up...you guys, have sharp eyes / everyone needs an extra pair or two...:thanks:
- I didn't realize that Moog was that bad now, with the lifetime warranty, but Made in China I suppose now, quality declines

Its very difficult to get a perfect auto anything in S/W Ontario, that has many years, on it.
- Road Salts are used in Canada as de-icing and anti-icing chemicals for winter road maintenance

I'm still excited (up here) when I see tight door seams, without separation & typical cancer rust.
- evidence of oil spray undercoating, is a big life-saver, up here & needs done annually
Extremely rare, seeing old vehicles in this condition locally / solid bodies are hard to come by...and our 72 cent dollar, doesn't buy much / South of the boarder.

 

[StreetCreeper]

Went to see my 2000 4Runner SR5, v6-4x4, auto, I'm picking up sometime this week.
Currently getting repair items fixed for safety check, at garage & E-tested:
- Walker muffler
- Moog lower ball joints
- both rear axle seals & ceramic brake shoes
- synthetic oil change / engine, rear axle, transfer case

^^ One owner, rust free/original paint survivor, with only 80,xxx miles - always dealer maintained...a true time capsule !!
- dealer already replaced the timing belt, water pump & added four BF Goodrich 16" tires for senior, before he purchased his brand new Toyota Highlander

Are your bearings shot on both sides or is the breather so clogged that it blew both seals?