What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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$89 per axle plus $40 extra for the long travel inner boot. $75 core per axle -

That seems VERY reasonable for OEM axles. Where did you hear about this company? I'll have to look them up, if they have good reviews I'll probably go that route too. Sounds much better than re-booting my leaking OEM ones with longer boots myself (wasn't planning on rebuilding them).
 
Did your 4Runner start running like crap when that happened?

Yeah. I got a CEL and got rough idling. Ran the diagnostic on it and it threw the MAF code. Searched it and the solution was to *attempt* to clean the sensor, or just replace it.

I tried to clean it but still got the CEL after wiping the code.

So I just went and got a Denso MAF sensor, and wiped the code. Havent had the problem since. And that was maybe 2 years ago.
 
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That seems VERY reasonable for OEM axles. Where did you hear about this company? I'll have to look them up, if they have good reviews I'll probably go that route too. Sounds much better than re-booting my leaking OEM ones with longer boots myself (wasn't planning on rebuilding them).

Found out about them here on the forum whilst searching CV joint/boot threads. Seemed to have great reviews they were great to deal with on the phone. The long travel boots from Off-Road Solutions (I think that's what they're name is) were $55 each. $30 each for longer outer boots. Basically I'd have been about $220 re-booting. CVJ re-manns $260 +shipping/cores. Give 'em a call -
 
Found out about them here on the forum whilst searching CV joint/boot threads. Seemed to have great reviews they were great to deal with on the phone. The long travel boots from Off-Road Solutions (I think that's what they're name is) were $55 each. $30 each for longer outer boots. Basically I'd have been about $220 re-booting. CVJ re-manns $260 +shipping/cores. Give 'em a call -

Awesome, that is more or less the same math i was doing in my head earlier....I also looked into the long travel boots. I'll research them later to double check then likely give them a call. Thanks!
 
Replaced IAC/TPS/TB

Quote:
Originally Posted by pdx650
I'll be receiving a used tb/tps/iac combo for my 2.7 liter soon and I'll report if it has fixed my high idle problem.

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How to check for continuity:
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'RSO' checked 'ok' on the bad IAC valve.
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'RSC' had no continuity. Confirming the culprit.
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How to check for operation of opening and closure of the valve:
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Cleaned as much of the intake runners as possible:
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New-ish left. Broken one right:
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Pre-road check.
1997 Toyota 4Runner IAC valve problems. - YouTube

Post-road check.
1997 Toyota 4Runner IAC valve problems part 2 - YouTube
 
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replaced PS fluid

appears that shop that remanufactured my engine a year ago put PS fluid into power steering reservoir. Realized it today and changed it to ATF fluid. The process was pretty simple (even though I had no helper) - just underestimated the pressure of the PS fluid, so ended up with it almost everywhere. Not as clean as I've planned. ;)

Hope that pump won't seize now. :/
 
Alpha,
Nice Cooler.... When i hjad mine installed i went with what the dealer installed. your looks better made... one of the mounts is stsrting to rust off.. it might be time to replace it. The cooler you used is it one of the better coolers out there? I'm in NY and tow my ski, pop up. I wwont have the heat and humditity you have ... would you reccomend it?
Thanks.
 
Much appreciated. I've got a new IAC coming too--when I tested the old one off the battery, there was zero response. No valve movement at all. So fingers crossed!

As for today, started the Big 3 wiring upgrade and planning how to run power to the interior for an amp and inverter.

Check out permalink #4593 above.
 
Ethanol absorbs water and eats rubber.

Myth.

watch 3-5 minute marks, the fuel lines were just fine after 100,000 miles.






These myth's listed below are from a website selling E85 conversion kits... of course they are selling a product, so they will push the conversion kits, but all their kit does is increase the duty cycle of the injector to pump in more fuel. E85 has less energy per unit than gasoline, therefore more fuel needs to be pumped into the motor to create the same "power."

4. Ethanol will burn up my engine.

Ethanol has a lower ignition point than gas. Ethanol has about 115 octane and E85 has 105 octane. It burns cooler and will extend engine life by preventing the burning of engine valves and prevent the build-up of olefins in fuel injectors, keeping the fuel system cleaner.

5. Ethanol will ruin gaskets, seals, rings and more.

Running 100% ethanol or alcohol in an engine can cause damage to cork products.

The rubber neoprene used in the last 20 + years is resistant to the drying effect that ethanol may have.

Today's vehicles are built to withstand the corrosive effects of water in ethanol and gasoline. Any vehicle built since 1985 will have no ethanol related issues. Older vehicles that used more steel in the fuel systems or cork gaskets may have issues from long term exposure to water.

Vehicles in Brazil have been using ethanol for 30 years and they are completely free from using any foreign oil.

6. E85 will eat my rubber fuel lines.

This is another myth from the old days. Rubber technology has significantly advanced so the concerns of a 20 year old car or newer having issues like this are extremely rare. Plus the 15% gas will help keep lines lubricated.




And a bit of googling, lots and lots of EVO and STi guys with the high output turbo 4 bangers love this stuff.

razorlab said:
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I've been using E85 for over 3 years, exclusively, 24/7 365. Both my personal cars run on it.

My 2005 Evo has 7X,000 miles on it. It runs the OEM charcoal style fuel filter (built into the plastic fuel assembly, a Walbro fuel pump with a non-cotton based fuel sock and RC1000cc injectors. All the seals are OEM.

I'm actually about to pull apart the fuel system that has seen E85 for over three years and make sure everything is still dandy pretty soon here. I will be creating a thread about it as well.

My 2010 RA Sportback also runs exclusively on E85. It has straight for the last year and 10,000 miles. It runs a SS inline fuel filter, a Walbro fuel pump with a non-cotton based fuel sock and ID1000cc injectors. All seals are OEM and original.

I have a good friend that I tuned on E85 a couple years back. He has a very long commute and has racked up over 60,000 miles on E85 exclusively with no issues so far and runs the same setup I do, on a 2005 Evo.

I also have over 30 Evo owners that have converted to E85 and that I have tuned over the past years that have run into no problems with seals or anything that people seem to think will fail.

Motors have been apart and inspected and the only abnormal things that are found is how clean everything is.

Keep in mind I live in California which is pretty new to E85, the rest of the country has had it for much longer. I did a ton of research into enthusiasts who have been running it for over a decade. They all have pretty much the same results, minus some who ran/run it on much older cars that have crappy seals anyway, which need to be replaced.

I understand the hesitation and fear of Ethanol, but I've been running it for years now and haven't looked back. It's an amazing fuel and really not a big scary monster.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->


QUOTE=paddlenbike;1402966] The warranty on my new Acura is void if I run more than 15% ethanol by volume. Don't do it.[/QUOTE]



razorlab said:
<!-- google_ad_section_end --> A Huge monolithic company has to make sure their cars run in every perceivable place for a certain time, etc. They have to be 100% sure the parts they use are 100% E85 compatible.




I finished off the tank of E85, and filled up with 87 yesterday afternoon. Here are my observations about the tank I ran.

-Idle was MUCH smoother. Almost felt like the motor was not running
-less power above 2,000 rpm. If the ECU was tunned for the different energy output of the E85, I'm sure it would return.
-Less mpg. This was expected, but wasn't as bad as I thought.
-Cost less to run. Currently for me to run 85 octane, it costs .21 cents a mile. E85 Cost .19 cents a mile. Not a huge difference, but a difference none the less.
 
Ethanol absorbs water and eats rubber. The warranty on my new Acura is void if I run more than 15% ethanol by volume. Don't do it.

My Husqvarna's blower fuel lines dissolved within a year due to using mixed ethanol gas. I spoke directly with their head NA engineer, who told me the ethanol dissolves rubber, but being that there are different manufactures of it, it is arbitrary to the speed it will dissolve given the application it is used in. He told me to take the blower back to Lowes, who gave me a new one. Also try and tell boat captains that ethanol is OK to fun in their fuel injected motors and you will have a one way trip out to sea.

To keep this thread on topic :rtfm:, I painted the back wind deflector with Duplicolor Trim paint. Not too bad. A large branch had fallen on the back top of my 4runner over the weekend. The auto store was out of SEM unfortunately.
 
Had a Pioneer CD /Tuner w/ BluRay ,double DIN deck and a Python alarm system installed in mine! Hard to believe a Limited w/out keyless and alarm from factory! Now for wheels! LOL
 
got a call from Icon.... something cool will be coming to me very soon! I'm also just about to order some LR UCA's. just abou....
 
Drilled a fat 3/4" hole in the roof for my 2-meter ham radio antenna. I got fed up with listening to hill-billies three states away clog the airwaves with garbage, so I removed everything CB related from my truck.
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Interior panels removed to facilitate coax routing.
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Finished product.
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Now I can remove that second magnet mount from my roof.

Man,
That's the way to do it... I don't have enough room for my Ham gear in my runner.. I run Moto gear.. just too big plain and simple.. but I am glad that you popped the hole.. when I install for friends.. I like to uses a chassis punch. You get a nice clean hole with no nonsense. good going with the Antenna run.

73'de N2gig
 
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