What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Ironman707
New member
That sucks
What normally we do is weld a nut on and if you can't tack a bolt and put two nuts on it. I have only ran into this when its a alone axle sitting in the rain but from personal never experienced this. Always curious what inspired someone to over tighten it 
Mark_BC
Senior Member
That sucks
I think it rusted on. I don't mind 23mm... as long as it works. I actually will put a different axle on so I'll use the better 24mm plug from that one.
Edit: when I said I cracked it I meant I loosened it but I won't take it out until I'm ready to catch the oil. So all good.
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I was very impressed with cracking it, I would have rolled with it
Drink's at the bar, Yeah I cracked an Axle drain plug....with ..my...bare...hands!
19963.4lsr5
New member
This may sound simpleton, but, don't remove the drain plug till you have the fill plug loose.
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Mark_BC
Senior Member
Finally did the rear differential oil change. I didn't have any maintenance records when I bought the truck which is a real pain because you then have to go through and do everything. But it seems that it was maintained well, all the fluids were in good shape. Filled it back up. I don't know why it hums so much.
I also finally started removing and painting over the rust on the frame underneath. That cross piece by the axle had a lot, I spent a good hour grinding / dremmelling off the loose stuff and that was only on the bottom and back side of it, I can't access the front and top of it. That will have to wait until I get a body lift and the axle comes off to allow access. I had four spray bottles, one with soapy wooder as Chrix Fix says, one with plain wooder, then methanol, then acetone. Cleaned it up nice, I didn't even need to touch it after that before painting.
Toyota really skimped on the black underside paint, that stuff its really thin. With any gravel hitting it you will get a ding which will start rusting, what do they expect to happen? It would have been nice if they galvanized the frame first. I used a couple coats of Rust Trap and I'll put one coat of black Rust Oleum black rim paint over that to protect from UV. That should hold up a couple decades. Inside I'll spray fluid film or some other anti-rust coating.
Edit: here are some before photos:
I also finally started removing and painting over the rust on the frame underneath. That cross piece by the axle had a lot, I spent a good hour grinding / dremmelling off the loose stuff and that was only on the bottom and back side of it, I can't access the front and top of it. That will have to wait until I get a body lift and the axle comes off to allow access. I had four spray bottles, one with soapy wooder as Chrix Fix says, one with plain wooder, then methanol, then acetone. Cleaned it up nice, I didn't even need to touch it after that before painting.
Toyota really skimped on the black underside paint, that stuff its really thin. With any gravel hitting it you will get a ding which will start rusting, what do they expect to happen? It would have been nice if they galvanized the frame first. I used a couple coats of Rust Trap and I'll put one coat of black Rust Oleum black rim paint over that to protect from UV. That should hold up a couple decades. Inside I'll spray fluid film or some other anti-rust coating.
Edit: here are some before photos:
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NoVAphotog
New member
Elocker retrofit
AntleredRuin
New member
Well, yesterday.
First off, I FINALLY did my SBU (after having the parts for over a year). Stops a hell of a lot better now (if only because I've been used to 'warped' rotors for 2 years now) but I think I still have a bit of air on the line. I'll try bleeding it again.
While I was at it I figured I'd replace a slightly stripped wheel stud, because **** mechanics who use a pneumatic torque wrench to start threading your lugnuts.
I tried to replace the crap stud today, but apparently both AutoZones and Advance Autos studs are the wrong part. The thread is fine, but the base is about half a mm too thick. The 'teeth' on the stud never make contact.
So I ended up just clamping the old stud in a vice and using a flap disc on my angle grinder to grind off the crossthreaded threads on the tip. Still has 80% grab or so. Was able to reinstall it fine that way.
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First off, I FINALLY did my SBU (after having the parts for over a year). Stops a hell of a lot better now (if only because I've been used to 'warped' rotors for 2 years now) but I think I still have a bit of air on the line. I'll try bleeding it again.
While I was at it I figured I'd replace a slightly stripped wheel stud, because **** mechanics who use a pneumatic torque wrench to start threading your lugnuts.
I tried to replace the crap stud today, but apparently both AutoZones and Advance Autos studs are the wrong part. The thread is fine, but the base is about half a mm too thick. The 'teeth' on the stud never make contact.
So I ended up just clamping the old stud in a vice and using a flap disc on my angle grinder to grind off the crossthreaded threads on the tip. Still has 80% grab or so. Was able to reinstall it fine that way.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
...factory Recaro interior...
Before:
After:
WHAT?! [emoji43][emoji51][emoji30]
That's a thing?! I'm into VW's, and have always had the factory Recaro's in my cars. I had no idea Toyota used them too. I need them.
As far as I know, it was only available on the Japanese Hilux Surfs and I'm learning that its even rare for Japan. Your best bet is to watch auctions.yahoo.co.jp (use Google Chrome browser and it'll translate the page for you). Search for "サーフ 185" (copy and paste this) and it'll find all the rare JDM goodies for 3rd gen 4runners. I can tell you that right now there are no recaros on there but they might show up eventually. Just keep looking. Cheers!
infamousRNR
Senior Member
Thanks for posting these... I've been debating on these or just the clear ones.
These look nice!
But......
We need to get you a "Timmy the Toolman" decal & put t next to that Chris fix sticker!!!
LittleCaesar
New member
Oil change day!
Also cleaned the MAF Sensor.
Before.
After.
Last did the Seafoam Motor Treatment.
That is the air intake sensor. If you look down the chamber of the MAF housing you will see the little wires that need a cleaning. They look like those filaments found in an incandescent light bulb.
LittleCaesar
New member
I didn't know such stickers existed. Is it a TTT logo inside the Toyota logo?
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