What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Hubby pulled the head on the Tall Camry Highlander that reportedly had a bad engine, no2 cylinder. Found:
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I got rid of some PO-old aftermarket alarm wiring out of the '96 and I didn't cut any wires to do it:
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And apparently paint has been ordered for my hood, hopefully it'll be the older azure blue pearl but whatevs, looks like it's not going to stay entirely green after all.

Is that an intake or exhaust valve? Looks like something may have hit it? I would guess a remanufactured head wouldn’t be too much $$$.....:juggle:
 
JDM swap passed the test!

finished a JDM build / swap about 3 wks ago and this past weekend drove it from Dallas to Bismarck ND and back. 2500 miles all together. Ran like a new one and averaged 21 MPG. returning to move kids back home after graduation from UMary in 2 weeks. Prior to leaving finished installing SS catback factory replacement exhaust and she is nice and quiet now and running great.
 

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I had some 5100's come in last week along with some Moog tall's.

I need to figure out what I'm doing with the front for suspension as I ordered a set of TRD-Faux wheels in Gunmetal. They're pretty decent with one minor casting flaw in all four of the wheels.

Time to go tire shopping!
 
Does getting a whole new one to work on count. I have 2 2001 just put a 97 in the driveway with a blown head gasket. This one is for my sister inlaw...
:lasercannon:
 
finished a JDM build / swap about 3 wks ago and this past weekend drove it from Dallas to Bismarck ND and back. 2500 miles all together. Ran like a new one and averaged 21 MPG. returning to move kids back home after graduation from UMary in 2 weeks. Prior to leaving finished installing SS catback factory replacement exhaust and she is nice and quiet now and running great.

That looks nice. I've always wanted to paint the intake like this.
 
Supersized my diff fill plug. The plug was rusty and already a bit chewed up so no socket combination worked and was literally rust welded on. Heated first with a torch (MAPP) which didn't seem to do much, but after all the hassle welding it was hot enough that you could have loosened it by hand. Take away is heat the b**** up as much as possible. Might also help to crack your breather as well since there was some built up pressure when I loosened it off - I needed a new breather obviously.

36mm>24mm

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I'm trying to replace the cat converter on my 00 4runner SR5. I'm having 2 problems, I can't get the nut off where the front exhaust pipe connects towards the engine the one nut (or is it a bolt) on the extreme outside(passenger side). The second thing is as I was doing some banging the pipe along the frame rail split in two and liquid sprayed out. What is that pipe( there are 2 there)? The cover plate is shown in the second picture and it transition from a a hard line to flexible tubing with a hose clamp.
 

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I'm trying to replace the cat converter on my 00 4runner SR5. I'm having 2 problems, I can't get the nut off where the front exhaust pipe connects towards the engine the one nut (or is it a bolt) on the extreme outside(passenger side). The second thing is as I was doing some banging the pipe along the frame rail split in two and liquid sprayed out. What is that pipe( there are 2 there)? The cover plate is shown in the second picture and it transition from a a hard line to flexible tubing with a hose clamp.

DO NOT DRIVE YOUR TRUCK or you will overheat your engine. Those are the coolant lines to the rear seat heaters and they rust out and drain all your coolant. You will need to follow them to the engine bay near to where they branch off and snip them where it is clean metal. Then seal up the cut ends so you can run the cooling system. I welded them shut but maybe there is dome rubber fitting you can use.
 
DO NOT DRIVE YOUR TRUCK or you will overheat your engine. Those are the coolant lines to the rear seat heaters and they rust out and drain all your coolant. You will need to follow them to the engine bay near to where they branch off and snip them where it is clean metal. Then seal up the cut ends so you can run the cooling system. I welded them shut but maybe there is dome rubber fitting you can use.

Thanks so much !!! I don't need the rear seat heater so I'll just block it off. Thanks again.
 
Thanks so much !!! I don't need the rear seat heater so I'll just block it off. Thanks again.
I think you can get to them by the heater control valve in the engine compartment and just run a loop from one to the other to eliminate the back heater. One line goes in ( to back) and one comes out ( to front) .
Or replace the rusted metal lines with rubber, seen that done.
For me , the rear heater is nice to have, and if you bypass it now, the lines and the heater will drain, and if you ever go back to try to reuse, the core will be dried out and possibly no good.
 
Annual garden hose enema.

Washed the winters accumulation out of the frame rails. $8 garden hose from walmart and cut one end off.

Not much came out this year but I drove it very little in the winter mess. Still a little oily from the can of WD-40 I put in there in the fall. Surprised how oily and wet it stayed, had used 1 medium sized can per side.
 
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Annual garden hose enema.

...That reminds me as well.

Today was more 4th gen love than 3rd gen love but the '99 got a little wipe-down with the 'ol 303. More parts en route so perhaps I'll take the studded winter tires off and swap over in case I need a backup.
 
Installed a new brake booster yesterday. The old one was bad. Thought I was going to need to bleed the brakes but it slipped right in without it! Go DIY power. I can't wait to tune up my rwd 3rd gen and possibly rebuild it in the future.
 
Started as a spark plug change yesterday, turns out I need wires too :mad:

So while waiting for the wires to arrive (ETA Monday) I:
- cleaned the MAF
- soaked any hardware I removed in mineral spirits overnight to remove most of the grease and grime, ran the bolts and screws to through a die to clean up the threads (will be running a tap through the holes), wire-wheeled/sanded as much rust etc. I can remove, and will be soaking them in evaporust for a day or so.
- grill some ribs on Sunday :D
 
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Catching up

New to the forum, so I figured I'd start here to get acquainted and build up the post count. I bought a 1998 T4R a few months ago at 168,000 miles and have been addressing little things here and there:
- Replaced rear diff, bearings, and seals
- Replaced rear brake back plates. The ones on it were bent!!???***##. It had spongy brakes when I bought it. Turns out this was the culprit. Not sure how this even happens but the brake shoes weren't making flat contact with the drums. All good now!
- Serviced entire e-brake system. Due to previous issue it appeared it hadn't been used in a long time, all linkage points were stiff to move.
- Just ordered (this morning) new catalytic converter, exhaust system, muffler and O2 sensors. I'm not getting any codes, don't appear to have any leaks, and rust doesn't seem to be an issue, but the exhaust sounds like garbage and I figured while I'm under there I'd just change it all out.

I've have quite a few items sitting on the bench I already ordered for replacement but I'll post those as I get to them. I just want to say THANK YOU so much to the guys who have put soe much time and effort into making all the instructional videos and posts. They have been a priceless resource in helping me learn my truck and learn to work on it myself, which is the entire reason I bought it in the first place!

Mark
 
Washed her. Went out to sea, came back and she was very dirty with bird shit on her. Now I'm gonna drink a beer and stare at her

<img src="https://i.ibb.co/71jmYtL/20190419-121853.jpg" alt="20190419-121853" border="0">
 
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