Oregon Runner
New member
My current project, low profile cargo storage as I stuffed an 8" sub in the factory cargo hole leaving me nil. Still figuring out what I want to do with the back space...
My current project, low profile cargo storage as I stuffed an 8" sub in the factory cargo hole leaving me nil. Still figuring out what I want to do with the back space...
New shocks, KYB Gas-a-just KG54317.
Got the old ones out with a 14mm deep socket/wrench to hold the nut, and a pair of channel locks to rotate the body. 5 minutes per side total - gotta love these rust free CA trucks!
https://i.imgur.com/YiBtFpY.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/EEE2YK3.jpg
Hey - how are you liking these? I'm hung up between pulling the trigger on them, or continuing to "save up" for 5100s (which never seems to be possible).
I've been following a "get shit done" strategy with my rig, which basically means actually upgrading and fixing things with quality parts that are in my budget rather than putting things off b/c the better parts are too expensive.
I'm thinking the KYBs are probably going to be a huge upgrade from my blown shocks, but it's so hard to tell reading the posts on the forum... The comments are just all over place - some people love them, some people say 5100 or nothing, they're too stiff, they're too soft. It's really confusing.
It was a few days ago, but I put in a Kenwood DMX7706S double din.
CarPlay is really cool, my favorite feature.
No bezel trimming required, pretty much a direct bolt in upgrade.
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A tip on the mysterious and confusing orange/white illumination wire that many people leave disconnected for fear of frying their rheostat - Metra 70-1761 has an orange/white wire in position 10 of the larger connector labelled "dimmer" which can be connected to the orange/white of the Kenwood harness labelled "illumination". This wire gets 12V power when you turn your running lights on and will dim the display and hard buttons. It also switches the style of some apps such as changing the CarPlay Maps app from light/white style to dark/black for night driving. Pretty slick.
This unit does NOT have a dedicated power antenna wire so your power antenna will always be up when the unit is powered on, even when you are not listing to the radio. Guess I will have to do Taco whip or add a switch, we'll see.
Otherwise the install was fairly straightforward. You could literally do it in 30 minutes if you have the harness already wired up. However the backup camera is another story...that took a long time.
Here is a list of parts I used for the install:
Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker
Amazon.com: Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker: Car Electronics
Metra 40-UV43 Male to Female Motorola Antenna Cable
Amazon.com: Metra 40-UV43 Male to Female Motorola Antenna Cable: Car Electronics
SCOSCHE MDAB 1988-05 GM Micro/Delco Antenna Adapter; Tip only
Amazon.com: SCOSCHE MDAB 1988-05 GM Micro/Delco Antenna Adapter; Tip only: Car Electronics
ICESPRING USB 3.0 Male to USB 3.0 Female AUX Flush Mount Car Mount Extension Cable for Car Truck Boat Motorcycle Dashboard Panel -(3 Feet - 1 Meter) (I used this to replace an accessory/cigarette plug with a USB port)
Amazon.com: ICESPRING USB 3.0 Male to USB 3.0 Female AUX Flush Mount Car Mount Extension Cable for Car Truck Boat Motorcycle Dashboard Panel -(3 Feet - 1 Meter): Computers & Accessories
Car Backup Camera, Rear View Camera Ultra HD 12 LED Night Vision,Waterproof Reverse Camera 140° Wide View Angel with Multiple Mount Brackets for Universal Cars,SUV,Trucks,RV and More
Amazon.com: Car Backup Camera, Rear View Camera Ultra HD 12 LED Night Vision,Waterproof Reverse Camera 140deg Wide View Angel with Multiple Mount Brackets for Universal Cars,SUV,Trucks,RV and More: Car Electronics
I've been following a "get shit done" strategy with my rig, which basically means actually upgrading and fixing things with quality parts that are in my budget rather than putting things off b/c the better parts are too expensive.
This is the best approach (unless you KNOW that something just slightly more experience is Clearly a better option, then save up). Just buy the best you can afford and move on. Despite the Kool-Aid drinkers in the forum that continually tout how OEM lasted 20 years, blah...blah...blah... the oil within those shocks was Actually toast by 100k miles or a decade of time. Age and heat do not treat that fluid kindly. And I'm probably being generous, especially if the vehicle was ever used hard (driven fast on washboard roads type thing).
Just get something in there and don't worry about what Other people think. We all only know the best we've had, everyone has a different idea of what "stiff" or "soft" is, and there's no good baseline anyway.
Quite happy with them for the way I drive, which is 95% on-road. Not too soft, not too stiff. I don't know the benefits of 5100's for the rear (the fronts obviously give you the adjustable perches), but I am probably the wrong person to ask if you do serious offroading or wheeling.
now that you've had some time with this head unit do you still like it? recommend it or something different? I'm in the market for something with android auto but if this ones 300 it tempts me to drop another 100 and get the ddx9905s with the capacative touch and the wireless android auto.
Thanks Man! I appreciate the vote of confidence. A few months back I did my brakes, and did not go with the TBU (gasp).
Do yourself a favor and buy one that mechanically tilts (not just digital viewing angle “tilt”). Our stereo is so low that you definitely want the screen tilted or it’s hard to see. I have a Pioneer AVH-4200NEX and have the tilt angle maxed out.