What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Continued with the body work. Repairing a small rust hole in the drivers door and the oxidized paint on the hood and the roof. Shot some gray epoxy primer today. Next, there are some spots that need filling. After that I will hit it with some urethane sanding primer, sand, and follow up with acrylic enamel in glorious Horizon Blue metallic.

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Did my rear shock on 2002 toyota 4runner 2wd drive.. Talk about tight fits and inaccessible nuts.. But i got it done.. One side came off easy, other side was tuff and had to cut it off.. Thanks to shorty sawzall with diablo steel demon blades.
New ones went in good, had to double nut it, guessing for keeping 1st nut in place.
Had to put in new rear sway bar links too. Old one was shot.

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Got smart with it. Soaked my a/F sensor bolts and nuts in penetrating oil for days. Bought 4 new nuts. Welded 2 of the new nuts to the rust puddle sorry excuse for nuts that I was not able to get a wrench or socket on. Then removed old nuts using the new nuts now attached. Then proceeded to replace the sensor and put the remaining new nuts on with some antiseize.:lasercannon:
 
USB charging hub in back storage compartment

Put a multi-port USB charger in that funky storage compartment in the back.
I hunt with dogs using GPS tracking collars on them so I figured this would be a great place to charge the collars and handheld unit. There are times I’m charging 2 collars, the GPS handheld, my cellphone, 2-4 walkie talkies, and a ham radio. It’s looks like spaghetti up on my dash. (I usually just toss the stuff on the rear floorboard with all the cables going back there...)
Now, no more. I can do most of the clutter stuff back in that little compartment!

I clipped off the cigarette lighter plug and tapped into the power outlet. That eliminated the fuse but I figure it should be okay. The nice thing about this particular hub (besides the nice fit) is it defaults to “on” when you power it up. No need to turn the switch on the unit.
I wish I had taken a couple more pics but it’s pretty self-explanatory...
I drilled a hole so the power plug could plug into the hub and ran that cable through the inner panel to the power outlet wires. Used those wire taps and snapped it all back into place, done

Amazon.com: Car Charger, AI AIKENUO 96W Quick Charge USB Cars Charger Adapter, 12V-24V Multi Ports QC 3.0 USB Auto Splitter Fast Charging for Galaxy S10 S9 Plus, Compatible with iPhone & Android
 

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first of all does anyone have a cheep gas tank and assembly i am 14 and i am working on my car and all of the tanks i could find are super expensive and im am getting my permit next month

Do you need the tank with pump and sender? Or just the tank? I have one Id let go pretty cheap in good shape from a running 4runner I just sold the engine and trans out of, Im in north Ga so not too far probably.
 
Swap my rear view mirror

I did my rear view mirror installation . Self dimming and with a compass. Very happy with it
 

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I finally dropped the girl to the ground after the 4wd conversion last night. Turned the key and nothing.....Slept on it and realized I had the transmission lever full forward. I woke up this morning and got under it and moved the lever full rear (I haven't installed the shifters in the center console yet) and hit the key and VROOM!! What a great feeling!! I need to top off the power steering fluid, check the transmission fluid level, tighten a couple driveshaft bolts after moving the truck about 6" (wrench clearance issue) and of course get the shifters bolted down. It has been 101 days since the 4Runner last started. A little over 3 months to do the conversion ain't bad considering it was done in my backyard and this summer was sweltering HOT!! So many days spent on the couch drinking cold beer this summer instead of wrenching outside drinking warm beer.
 
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Ordered up LBJs, Bolts, as well as everything needed to do Valve Cover Gaskets... again... All OEM this time. Really not looking forward to pull the supercharger off and dong VCGs again but it needs doing...
 
I got half way to work and the gear indicator showed I was in both D and L. Shortly after the truck shifted into what felt like L. Then the 10a fuse for the gauges blew. So, I changed a 10a fuse today and continued to post on this forum to reach the required minimum to post my own thread in regards to the issue.

I also got a used tire mounted on a spare rim.
 
Finally decided to tackle a squeaking noise I heard when I turned the steering wheel - something between squeaking and creaking. For weeks I assumed it was some plastic rubbing around the column and ignored it.

Eventually I had enough and decided to investigate further. Pretty quickly I narrowed it down to the rag joint, with the body lift aluminum spacer in it :

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I noticed that if I loosened the two through bolts holding the joint together, the noise went away. But I couldn't figure out why. Finally I took out the entire assembly, both sides of the rag joint and the aluminum spacer. It was still hard to find a cause, but eventually I did - the machined counterbore in the aluminum block (for the two steel pins in the lower half of the rag joint) was not deep enough, so the tips of the pins rubbed against the bottom of the counterbore as the steering rotated and the pins tilted back and forth.

I fixed this by simply drilling through the counterbores to create through holes for the pins, which made the noise go away. The body lift kit supplier said he never had this issue before, which I find hard to believe.

Nice to have quiet steering again.
 
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