What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Bikeric
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Thanks!! I'm actually leaning towards the 4.0 1UZ. Aluminum block will save weight and I'm a fan of the sound of higher compression engines. I know the difference between 9.6:1 and 10.0:1 isn't much, but the extra "POP" is music to my ears. I've got my eyes out for early to mid-90's LS400's.
G_Raw
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Used some windshield repair glue stuff to fix a starburst I got on Monday
Samsies but seems ro have spread a bit. Running to Tahoe tomorrow hopefully I don't see more of a spread, otherwise Friday will be another attempt at sealing it.
Hello, I have a 1999 Toyota 4runner with 272k miles that I bought 2 months ago.
I bought the vehicle with a misfire that I would fix changing the sparks with coils.
After checking all the compression (which was good on all cylinders) and changed the coils, sparks, and fuel injector the car is still throwing codes on cylinder 3 and 4 misfiring along with a random misfire.
Another code I have is PO710 but I believe it will be fixed after i change the transmission sensor.
Also when I drive it around 50 mph the transmission and I'm assuming the engine as a wicked shake
By any chance if any one know how I can fix this misfire and the shaking please let me know.
I bought the vehicle with a misfire that I would fix changing the sparks with coils.
After checking all the compression (which was good on all cylinders) and changed the coils, sparks, and fuel injector the car is still throwing codes on cylinder 3 and 4 misfiring along with a random misfire.
Another code I have is PO710 but I believe it will be fixed after i change the transmission sensor.
Also when I drive it around 50 mph the transmission and I'm assuming the engine as a wicked shake
By any chance if any one know how I can fix this misfire and the shaking please let me know.
Did you change spark plug wires too? What brand coil packs did you install? What were your compression test numbers?
G_Raw
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Shifter bushings got changed. Would've saved a bit of work if I proactively did them prior to the tranny swap a week ago. They looked and felt alright on shifter assembly out of the vehicle. Felt a little wobbly when shifting after install but didn't think it'd bother me since the bushings looked good. Took it on a trail this past weekend and it wobbled and bounced so hard it looked like it could shift on its own haha... glad it's been resolved. Nice and tight now.
fatherohenry
Member
Armrest & White Dash LEDs
Elbow hole
"Leather" armrest cover - $12.45 on Ebay.
Dash LEDs and some overdue cleaning.
Center console LEDs and getting a lay of the land for an upcoming stereo replacement.
Armrest color is off but I'm happy with it, especially the extra padding.
Watched three hours of Timmy the Toolman tonight and I'm ready to move on to bigger and better projects.
Elbow hole
"Leather" armrest cover - $12.45 on Ebay.
Dash LEDs and some overdue cleaning.
Center console LEDs and getting a lay of the land for an upcoming stereo replacement.
Armrest color is off but I'm happy with it, especially the extra padding.
Watched three hours of Timmy the Toolman tonight and I'm ready to move on to bigger and better projects.
Successfully put 5th gen rear springs on 96 Limited
TL;DN- used 5th Gen springs gave a corrective 2in and handles weight so so so much better. Fit without cutting, kinda. Worked great but don't pay to do it.
Successfully installed used 5th gen rear springs on a 96 Limited. Went from a saggy 34 in from wheel well to ground, to a level and firm 36 in. Lift wise I was nervous going into it that the 5th gen springs would lift past the shocks. But it was no problem. One piece of info is the rubber stopper cone inside the springs are different sizes and I’d suggest using a 5th gen stopper as I felt the 3rd gen stopper was too skinny to be secure. Since the 5th gen spring is wider, the coil pattern taped off a little differently at the bottom, but is still secure. At the top, it is a tad too wide to fit in the indent of the 3rd gen as well, however, it settled in and secured without any trimming. Neither the standard shocks nor sway bar were strained in the slightest. However, the 5th gen inner rubber bumper cone is now shorter than the outer rubber bumper stop that is on the frame. If I bottom out, the outer rubber bump stop will hit first. This can be resolved by adding an internal spacer within the spring, to shorten the distance from the rubber cone to the base of the housing.
Lessons learned-
-To those who find themselves with a free pair of springs like I did, go for it. But if you’re going to pay I’d just get something designed to fit out of the box.
-If I was to do it again, I think I’d again choose not to invest the time in adjusting the inner rubber cone stoppers to fit perfectly, I think it’s fine the way I did it by just throwing the 5th gen stoppers and springs in.
-Riding home it was a waaaay better feel from the sagged out rear end I had before. Nice and firm.
-2in was barely noticeable until I had a friend stand on the rear bumper, the 4runner handles weight so much better now.
TL;DN- used 5th Gen springs gave a corrective 2in and handles weight so so so much better. Fit without cutting, kinda. Worked great but don't pay to do it.
Successfully installed used 5th gen rear springs on a 96 Limited. Went from a saggy 34 in from wheel well to ground, to a level and firm 36 in. Lift wise I was nervous going into it that the 5th gen springs would lift past the shocks. But it was no problem. One piece of info is the rubber stopper cone inside the springs are different sizes and I’d suggest using a 5th gen stopper as I felt the 3rd gen stopper was too skinny to be secure. Since the 5th gen spring is wider, the coil pattern taped off a little differently at the bottom, but is still secure. At the top, it is a tad too wide to fit in the indent of the 3rd gen as well, however, it settled in and secured without any trimming. Neither the standard shocks nor sway bar were strained in the slightest. However, the 5th gen inner rubber bumper cone is now shorter than the outer rubber bumper stop that is on the frame. If I bottom out, the outer rubber bump stop will hit first. This can be resolved by adding an internal spacer within the spring, to shorten the distance from the rubber cone to the base of the housing.
Lessons learned-
-To those who find themselves with a free pair of springs like I did, go for it. But if you’re going to pay I’d just get something designed to fit out of the box.
-If I was to do it again, I think I’d again choose not to invest the time in adjusting the inner rubber cone stoppers to fit perfectly, I think it’s fine the way I did it by just throwing the 5th gen stoppers and springs in.
-Riding home it was a waaaay better feel from the sagged out rear end I had before. Nice and firm.
-2in was barely noticeable until I had a friend stand on the rear bumper, the 4runner handles weight so much better now.
2adad1974
New member
Replaced the fuel filter since it’s started stuttering very rarely. Old filter looked nearly new, but it had some crud in it. The front fuel line fitting came out super easy, but the back acted like it was cross threaded. I rounded the corners of the bolt getting it back on, should’ve taken Timmy’s advice and gotten a 14mm flare nut wrench. Now, the rear fitting is seeping just enough to know it’s seeping if you lay under there and watch it for 2-3 minutes. I’m trying to find out if you can order the fuel line section I THINK I need (77252a) apart from the entire fuel line assembly. Any ideas?
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Ashura
New member
Those are pretty swanky man. I appreciate what you're after. If you keep that format though is it safe to say you won't be going offroad with it? I'm after ways to update the look of mine too.
I like the projectors but something about a stock headlight assembly for me can't be beat.
Rebuilt the entire engine a d threw a a lot of new parts to it but currently dealing with a no spark issue. Wish me luck
4runner 3rd gen engine bay - Album on Imgur
4runner 3rd gen engine bay - Album on Imgur
Ashura
New member
Nicely done man!
5 Speed Dave
New member
New Gravel Parking Pad - Driveway addition
Our driveway is concrete - 100 ft long but only 1 car wide......SO we do a lot of playing musical cars. Sometimes I have to park Roscoe in the yard. WE have created a pretty good size mud hole - Yep, Rednecks go mudding in the yard. Concrete was out of my budget so I rented a skid steer and did some excavating. Removed some tree roots and put down some railroad ties. 10 TONS of gravel later and now I have a really nice place to park Roscoe
Our driveway is concrete - 100 ft long but only 1 car wide......SO we do a lot of playing musical cars. Sometimes I have to park Roscoe in the yard. WE have created a pretty good size mud hole - Yep, Rednecks go mudding in the yard. Concrete was out of my budget so I rented a skid steer and did some excavating. Removed some tree roots and put down some railroad ties. 10 TONS of gravel later and now I have a really nice place to park Roscoe
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Moonbandit
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I had a similar issue once - it ended up being a crank position sensor - pulled one off an old runner in the junk yard for $2 - then all was good.
kidfortoday
New member
Today I took the skid plates off my engine to locate a oil leak. I've owned my '97 4r SR5 for about a month. I just moved across country with this 4r, dragging a trailer. It seemed to run fine, but I never went past 60mph, 55 on average. While heading to storage I started to smell oil.
Front skid plate was dirty, but not too bad. Rear skidplate has clear oil/dirt build up, and one random plopped into it. The oilpan, front axel, and the surrounding area were heavily coated with oil, I wiped it all down as best I can and haven't found the exact spot, but I'm hoping you can help.
I found a spot that was welded, I think its the engine mount to the transmission? I've got some photos here: Imgur: The magic of the Internet
Oil drips seem to line up with this area, its just above front passenger axel stuff.
I pulled codes too and I'm getting a P0303/misfire on 3 iirc. When I get it up past 60 its a bit shakey.
I'm a new 4r owner, and fairly amateur on car stuff. Hope to figure this all out, I'm excited to take my 4r camping in the spring!
Front skid plate was dirty, but not too bad. Rear skidplate has clear oil/dirt build up, and one random plopped into it. The oilpan, front axel, and the surrounding area were heavily coated with oil, I wiped it all down as best I can and haven't found the exact spot, but I'm hoping you can help.
I found a spot that was welded, I think its the engine mount to the transmission? I've got some photos here: Imgur: The magic of the Internet
Oil drips seem to line up with this area, its just above front passenger axel stuff.
I pulled codes too and I'm getting a P0303/misfire on 3 iirc. When I get it up past 60 its a bit shakey.
I'm a new 4r owner, and fairly amateur on car stuff. Hope to figure this all out, I'm excited to take my 4r camping in the spring!
Oregon Runner
New member
Bled my P/S system...again. Just replaced rack and pinion and now have pump whine. Put in the Napa branded AFT 1 week ago (bled per FSM and also cleaned reservoir filter) and it was already black when I changed to Castrol Transmax IMV today, seems to be better for now. I'll know tomorrow in the AM when I start it as that's when it seems to be when it's the worst. All else fails I'm headed to the junkyard for a swapper.
Also worked on a 3D print project for the 96-98 crowd to fill up some overhead dead space...
Also worked on a 3D print project for the 96-98 crowd to fill up some overhead dead space...
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