shawnathan9
New member
Recently flushed all the trans, coolant, replaced the thermostat and radiator
Well, I just spent a good 30 mins typing up a reply and then "x" out of that tab like a nimrod so here I am again, typing out the same ol' that I just typed 30 mins ago. :keyboard:
I recently performed a transmission flush which was over due as, you'll see from the upcoming picture, the fluid looked more like dark molasses than a cherry pie red. I decided on this for maintenance concerns as the previous owner had no record of any transmission fluid fills within the last decade.
As such, I present to you the dark molasse that oozed out of my transmission lines during this flush:
<a href="https://ibb.co/r5MyvTX"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/BTjswdY/20210103-082335.jpg" alt="20210103-082335" border="0"></a>
I went through 2 gallons of new fluid, during this flush, before I began to see "red" transmission fluid re-appear on the drain hose/catch can. Once I noticed that the fluid being drained was a clear red, I called it good and filled in what I took out; I bought a cheap $8.00 12qt container at Smart and Final and modified it by making several 1/2 qt increments so I could accurately measure the drained fluid against what I needed to fill:
<a href="https://ibb.co/cydrCnQ"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/zmw47vZ/20210103-084928.jpg" alt="20210103-084928" border="0"></a>
Filling was measured using another cheap 4qt painters bucket from Home Depot. - I used an approximate 2.5 gallons of new transmission during this flush:
<a href="https://ibb.co/wBctHrp"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/CmPLdsV/20210103-082341.jpg" alt="20210103-082341" border="0"></a>
It sure beats the cost to do this yourself than to pay someone else to do what you can do with a minimal amount of tools, your time, a few buckets, and new fluids.
Drove around for a few days, checked for any leaks, and noticed smoother shifting into gears and a slightly lower transmission temp. :becky:
My next goal was to replace the green coolant which appeared to have entered the vehicle sometime in 2007 when the previous owner had a coolant leak from the radiator. At that time, the maintenance records indicated a spectra radiator and a unbranded thermostat/gasket was replaced. There was no indication of any hoses being replaced then, after, and until I purchased the Runner.
As such, I figured that this was all due soon and I'd rather get to it before it gets to me through some breakdown while I'm out on a trail or on the highway. So, I ordered new upper/lower hoses, a OEM thermostat/gasket, and a OEM radiator from Magnussen Toyota of Palo Alto:
<a href="https://ibb.co/St1wzLP"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/x1cqN4D/20210112-112152.jpg" alt="20210112-112152" border="0"></a>
First things first, I drained 2quarts of radiator fluid from the petcock. Opening up the radiator cap helps with this process. - Make sure your coolant temps are low so you don't burn yourself.
After a good 2 quarts drains out, I temporarily closed the petcock and then I removed the old upper radiator hose.
(Warning: try to have your coolant temps low so you don't scold yourself with hot fluids AND also make sure you've drained at least 2 quarts out so you don't remove the upper radiator hose while there's fluid leveled at that height!).
Once you've removed that upper radiator hose, you can use it to increase the time it takes to drain out your coolant from the system.
Now, simply go back and unfasten the petcock all the way BUT keep your fingers pressed down on the petcock to keep it in place.
With the radiator hose in your other hand hand, place one end of that old radiator hose over the petcock and the other end into the catch bucket.
Then, use your other hand let your finger go of the petcock which will come draining out of the radiator hose and into your catch bucket. Let radiator hose redirect the gushing fluid into the bucket instead of it gushing out all over your engine bay and driveway. - It saves so much time flushing the fluid this way than to let the petcock drip away for 30mins each flush interval you'll perform moving forward.
Okay, I didn't capture any photo of the said method as it required both hands to perform it as you can imagine.
After all the coolant was flushed, I removed the transmission fluid lines on the inlet/outlet of the radiator, plugged those lines to prevent transmission fluid loss, and proceeded to remove the upper/lower radiator hoses:
<a href="https://ibb.co/m9sRxMF"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/CbdwrTs/20210112-115309.jpg" alt="20210112-115309" border="0"></a>
I removed the lower radiator hose and water outlet pipe to reveal the thermostat:
<a href="https://ibb.co/PWqP65Z"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/s18NVFv/20210112-112203.jpg" alt="20210112-112203" border="0"></a>
During this process, one of the thermostat bolt studs actually came off the engine. Later on, I had no specs about this stud and it's torque rating so I ended up using the same torque spec required for the thermostat outlet pipe. Time will tell if this holds up later on.
Note: The mechanic whom previously installed the off-brand thermostat had it positioned at 12 o'clock which is the opposite of what Toyota recommends which is the 6 o'clock position.
The off-brand thermostat also has a jiggle valve that was stationed closer to the diaphragm of the thermostat than on the exterior circumference which is how the OEM thermostat was built:
<a href="https://ibb.co/yVfxmX8"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/QXbx7f6/20210112-115638.jpg" alt="20210112-115638" border="0"></a>
The OEM thermostat has a much more robust jiggle valve shown in this pic at 12 o'clock:
<a href="https://ibb.co/7nWFNtr"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/Pch8zG1/20210112-115635.jpg" alt="20210112-115635" border="0"></a>
I added a new gasket onto the OEM thermostat and installed it back onto the engine. Next, I removed the coolant overflow container and flushed that with distilled water until I was satisfied.
I took the old water outlet pipe, cleaned it's mating surfaces and replaced the lower radiator hose with a new silicone aftermarket hose:
<a href="https://ibb.co/RvFXs09"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/6nMKTPm/20210112-110437.jpg" alt="20210112-110437" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/PCVjwts"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/VBk9230/20210112-113955.jpg" alt="20210112-113955" border="0"></a>
I installed the new OEM radiator back in place, re-attached the transmission fluid lines, attached the lower/upper radiator hoses, and then the coolant overflow container back in place:
<a href="https://ibb.co/D8HjhcK"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/hZJTbQ8/20210112-122733.jpg" alt="20210112-122733" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/DVMmM0k"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/C1949Rv/20210112-124210.jpg" alt="20210112-124210" border="0"></a>
I simply went with blue since it matches my NGK plug wires and a blue oil catch can I have running through a PVC outlet tube to throttle body.
Next, I topped the radiator up using a Lisle funnel, which really helps with the process, and proceeded through approximately 8-10 gallons of distilled water until the nasty old green stuff was no more. There's just something satisfying about the color change and how you just know you're doing something good for the Runner. Money shot:
<a href="https://ibb.co/P4sWGZL"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/92m4H9D/20210112-152910.jpg" alt="20210112-152910" border="0"></a>
I flushed the last amount of distilled water out of the radiator and then began to add the Toyota Red back into the system. Note: It really helps to jack up your Runner on it's rear to help flush out the distilled water. - Then, it's helpful to later jack up the front end when you finally top it off to help remove any trapped air. - You'll want the Runner leveled when you do your final topping off however.
To top it all off, pun intended, I busted out my new OEM Toyota radiator cap and stored the aftermarket one for emergency cases:
<a href="https://ibb.co/ZLFjnnJ"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/0D67ggX/20210112-121634.jpg" alt="20210112-121634" border="0"></a>
*Now I feel much better with the idea that the Red coolant has better corrosion preventative properties than the green. Nowadays, they have Toyota and Zerex Red around enough areas that you'll probably have access to them in case of an emergency. :trophy:
*Got to remind myself to print out a maintenance worksheet and keep it in my glove box so I can see what my next intervals should be. - Do you guys use apps to keep up to date or go the old fashioned way and log it in excel or a paper print out? - Thoughts?
Well, I just spent a good 30 mins typing up a reply and then "x" out of that tab like a nimrod so here I am again, typing out the same ol' that I just typed 30 mins ago. :keyboard:
I recently performed a transmission flush which was over due as, you'll see from the upcoming picture, the fluid looked more like dark molasses than a cherry pie red. I decided on this for maintenance concerns as the previous owner had no record of any transmission fluid fills within the last decade.
As such, I present to you the dark molasse that oozed out of my transmission lines during this flush:
<a href="https://ibb.co/r5MyvTX"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/BTjswdY/20210103-082335.jpg" alt="20210103-082335" border="0"></a>
I went through 2 gallons of new fluid, during this flush, before I began to see "red" transmission fluid re-appear on the drain hose/catch can. Once I noticed that the fluid being drained was a clear red, I called it good and filled in what I took out; I bought a cheap $8.00 12qt container at Smart and Final and modified it by making several 1/2 qt increments so I could accurately measure the drained fluid against what I needed to fill:
<a href="https://ibb.co/cydrCnQ"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/zmw47vZ/20210103-084928.jpg" alt="20210103-084928" border="0"></a>
Filling was measured using another cheap 4qt painters bucket from Home Depot. - I used an approximate 2.5 gallons of new transmission during this flush:
<a href="https://ibb.co/wBctHrp"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/CmPLdsV/20210103-082341.jpg" alt="20210103-082341" border="0"></a>
It sure beats the cost to do this yourself than to pay someone else to do what you can do with a minimal amount of tools, your time, a few buckets, and new fluids.
Drove around for a few days, checked for any leaks, and noticed smoother shifting into gears and a slightly lower transmission temp. :becky:
My next goal was to replace the green coolant which appeared to have entered the vehicle sometime in 2007 when the previous owner had a coolant leak from the radiator. At that time, the maintenance records indicated a spectra radiator and a unbranded thermostat/gasket was replaced. There was no indication of any hoses being replaced then, after, and until I purchased the Runner.
As such, I figured that this was all due soon and I'd rather get to it before it gets to me through some breakdown while I'm out on a trail or on the highway. So, I ordered new upper/lower hoses, a OEM thermostat/gasket, and a OEM radiator from Magnussen Toyota of Palo Alto:
<a href="https://ibb.co/St1wzLP"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/x1cqN4D/20210112-112152.jpg" alt="20210112-112152" border="0"></a>
First things first, I drained 2quarts of radiator fluid from the petcock. Opening up the radiator cap helps with this process. - Make sure your coolant temps are low so you don't burn yourself.
After a good 2 quarts drains out, I temporarily closed the petcock and then I removed the old upper radiator hose.
(Warning: try to have your coolant temps low so you don't scold yourself with hot fluids AND also make sure you've drained at least 2 quarts out so you don't remove the upper radiator hose while there's fluid leveled at that height!).
Once you've removed that upper radiator hose, you can use it to increase the time it takes to drain out your coolant from the system.
Now, simply go back and unfasten the petcock all the way BUT keep your fingers pressed down on the petcock to keep it in place.
With the radiator hose in your other hand hand, place one end of that old radiator hose over the petcock and the other end into the catch bucket.
Then, use your other hand let your finger go of the petcock which will come draining out of the radiator hose and into your catch bucket. Let radiator hose redirect the gushing fluid into the bucket instead of it gushing out all over your engine bay and driveway. - It saves so much time flushing the fluid this way than to let the petcock drip away for 30mins each flush interval you'll perform moving forward.
Okay, I didn't capture any photo of the said method as it required both hands to perform it as you can imagine.
After all the coolant was flushed, I removed the transmission fluid lines on the inlet/outlet of the radiator, plugged those lines to prevent transmission fluid loss, and proceeded to remove the upper/lower radiator hoses:
<a href="https://ibb.co/m9sRxMF"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/CbdwrTs/20210112-115309.jpg" alt="20210112-115309" border="0"></a>
I removed the lower radiator hose and water outlet pipe to reveal the thermostat:
<a href="https://ibb.co/PWqP65Z"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/s18NVFv/20210112-112203.jpg" alt="20210112-112203" border="0"></a>
During this process, one of the thermostat bolt studs actually came off the engine. Later on, I had no specs about this stud and it's torque rating so I ended up using the same torque spec required for the thermostat outlet pipe. Time will tell if this holds up later on.
Note: The mechanic whom previously installed the off-brand thermostat had it positioned at 12 o'clock which is the opposite of what Toyota recommends which is the 6 o'clock position.
The off-brand thermostat also has a jiggle valve that was stationed closer to the diaphragm of the thermostat than on the exterior circumference which is how the OEM thermostat was built:
<a href="https://ibb.co/yVfxmX8"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/QXbx7f6/20210112-115638.jpg" alt="20210112-115638" border="0"></a>
The OEM thermostat has a much more robust jiggle valve shown in this pic at 12 o'clock:
<a href="https://ibb.co/7nWFNtr"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/Pch8zG1/20210112-115635.jpg" alt="20210112-115635" border="0"></a>
I added a new gasket onto the OEM thermostat and installed it back onto the engine. Next, I removed the coolant overflow container and flushed that with distilled water until I was satisfied.
I took the old water outlet pipe, cleaned it's mating surfaces and replaced the lower radiator hose with a new silicone aftermarket hose:
<a href="https://ibb.co/RvFXs09"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/6nMKTPm/20210112-110437.jpg" alt="20210112-110437" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/PCVjwts"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/VBk9230/20210112-113955.jpg" alt="20210112-113955" border="0"></a>
I installed the new OEM radiator back in place, re-attached the transmission fluid lines, attached the lower/upper radiator hoses, and then the coolant overflow container back in place:
<a href="https://ibb.co/D8HjhcK"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/hZJTbQ8/20210112-122733.jpg" alt="20210112-122733" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/DVMmM0k"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/C1949Rv/20210112-124210.jpg" alt="20210112-124210" border="0"></a>
I simply went with blue since it matches my NGK plug wires and a blue oil catch can I have running through a PVC outlet tube to throttle body.
Next, I topped the radiator up using a Lisle funnel, which really helps with the process, and proceeded through approximately 8-10 gallons of distilled water until the nasty old green stuff was no more. There's just something satisfying about the color change and how you just know you're doing something good for the Runner. Money shot:
<a href="https://ibb.co/P4sWGZL"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/92m4H9D/20210112-152910.jpg" alt="20210112-152910" border="0"></a>
I flushed the last amount of distilled water out of the radiator and then began to add the Toyota Red back into the system. Note: It really helps to jack up your Runner on it's rear to help flush out the distilled water. - Then, it's helpful to later jack up the front end when you finally top it off to help remove any trapped air. - You'll want the Runner leveled when you do your final topping off however.
To top it all off, pun intended, I busted out my new OEM Toyota radiator cap and stored the aftermarket one for emergency cases:
<a href="https://ibb.co/ZLFjnnJ"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/0D67ggX/20210112-121634.jpg" alt="20210112-121634" border="0"></a>
*Now I feel much better with the idea that the Red coolant has better corrosion preventative properties than the green. Nowadays, they have Toyota and Zerex Red around enough areas that you'll probably have access to them in case of an emergency. :trophy:
*Got to remind myself to print out a maintenance worksheet and keep it in my glove box so I can see what my next intervals should be. - Do you guys use apps to keep up to date or go the old fashioned way and log it in excel or a paper print out? - Thoughts?
Last edited:
ound:
