What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Swapped out my 3RZ cast (and cracked) exhaust manifold for the later year tube steel one. Took me and extraordinary amount of time to do the swap, but it was successful. The most mechanical thing I've ever done is replace spark plugs, so I'm feeling accomplished.
 
Looks good. Wondering if a person could just drop the lower section of the fat lip off (I realize you'd have dangling fogs to deal with) - do they simply unbolt?

Thanks! And ya know, I don't know. It's on my list to do fogs so I'll eventually find out hehehe. new bumpers entirely are on the list but not as high as some other stuff *shrug* lol
 
Installed new wheels and tires

Put some new wheels and tires on the wife's 4Runner (Natasha)

16x8 +0 FN Wheels Five Stars
Painted gun metal and matte cleared 2K
Personalized the center caps with Black Widow logos
TOYO TIRE OPEN COUNTRY A/T III 265-70-16 (stock size)
No lift
 

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Bolt & screw extractor kits are nice to have for situations like this. Screw extractor for the front diff allen drain bolt. You can get cheap or pricier kits.
Screw extractor:
IRWIN 53228 15 piece Multi Spline Extractor Set, Model:HAN53228 - Masonry Drill Bits - Amazon.com

Bolt extractor kit:
IRWIN 53228 15 piece Multi Spline Extractor Set, Model:HAN53228 - Masonry Drill Bits - Amazon.com

If that doesn't work have a bolt or nut welded on. Mobile welders are more expensive but convenient for situations (if you don't weld) when your 4runner isn't in an ideal driving condition.



My understanding is that the front diff still rotates in 2WD so driving with watered down gear oil is probably risky.

Purchased the set and it worked perfectly except after the drain plug is out you need a vice to get the extractor separated again haha overall seems to be a good set to have on hand!
 
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Well some water got in on the passenger side after I sunk her a few weeks ago and it just smelled terrible so I figured it was time to get rid of that 25 year old carpet.. btw it was disgusting so glad it's out. New carpet from stock interiors should be here tomorrow! I went with black because I like it in my car so well see how it turns out
 

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got it washed real good...need to decide on some rims to fill out to the edge of the flares..probably -10 o/s or so. Looking at 285 75 16 Duratracs for sure! Parked at the abandoned local church not the handicapped stall.
 

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Sent these "MaxPow" rear hatch struts I just installed back to Amazon, after making the mistake of trusting Amazon reviews because I couldn't be bothered doing the proper research.

hatch4.jpg


After reading the forum like I should have done, I got these StrongArm 6815 which I'm happy with. I like them better than the worn out StrongArm 4286 I had before because they work better in the cold and open well with the rear window down. It looks like they are simply 4286s with slightly longer gas cylinders. They are made in China now though. I had to squash the end brackets very slightly in a vice to allow the E-clips on to the pins properly otherwise no probs.

hatch1.jpg


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The obligatory T4R approved nylon bushings from Lowes. Don't bother with Menards and Home Depot go straight to lowes for those 1/8" thick washers. I tried cutting these with a small swing around tubing cutter with little success so used the vice and hacksaw method and fine tuned with a file.

hatch2.jpg
 
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Laid hands on skids

Not so much what I did today, but getting actual hands on a set of engine and trans skids is 90% of the battle. They quoted a 4-6 week lead time and they came in just under 4 weeks - not bad. Now to prime, paint, and bolt up. These 4XI skids and the Shrockworks sliders make the rig a lot more ready for some serious off-road low-riding. This set is HEAVY at nearly 70lbs.

MF Overland kit in pic as well - ready to go on this weekend, too.
 

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Sent these "MaxPow" rear hatch struts I just installed back to Amazon, after making the mistake of trusting Amazon reviews because I couldn't be bothered doing the proper research.

hatch4.jpg


After reading the forum like I should have done, I got these StrongArm 6815 which I'm happy with. I like them better than the worn out StrongArm 4286 I had before because they work better in the cold and open well with the rear window down. It looks like they are simply 4286s with slightly longer gas cylinders. They are made in China now though. I had to squash the end brackets very slightly in a vice to allow the E-clips on to the pins properly otherwise no probs.

hatch1.jpg


hatch3.jpg


The obligatory T4R approved nylon bushings from Lowes. Don't bother with Menards and Home Depot go straight to lowes for those 1/8" thick washers. I tried cutting these with a small swing around tubing cutter with little success so used the vice and hacksaw method and fine tuned with a file.

hatch2.jpg

how easy/difficult did you find this installation? i’ve yet to do work myself on my 99 4R that i bought a few months ago but i want to start with a similar project, so curious how to know how you found it.
 
So...I've got an '02 2WD Limited. Yeah, it's got several issues I'm in the process of working out. What did I do with it today? I drove it. She's got 267k miles on the clock and the check engine light glares at me every time I start the engine..evap crap. I replaced the alternator brushes a few days ago...original alternator. What does that say about OEM quality? I look at most other brands/years on the road and think...mine will outlast yours by at least a decade. Maybe I'm just old school but I'm not going to spend my hard earned $$ on inferior quality....no matter how cutting edge the tech is. KISS....keep it simple stupid
 
Washed it and started rehashing the sleeper platform I have in the back. Since I installed it the rear seats wouldn't lock in place... I know bad idea. but I'm crash free and fixing the problem ;)

edit/ spelling
 
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Currently at 286,500 miles. I bought it in 2003 when it had about 25,000 miles on it. Today, I:

- Replaced the alternator for the second time. So this is Alternator #3. It's a reman from Toyota. (I was getting the intermittent red battery light. New alternator fixed that.)
- Flushed the Power Steering. This may have been done once before but I don't remember when.
- Changed the oil and filter. Standard service done every 5K miles.

Since about 270K I've:

- Replaced the starter
- Replaced the turn-signal switcher
- Replaced the valve cover gaskets + air intake hose (whatever that is). This solved the 440, 441, 446 Check Engine codes I kept getting.
- Fixed frame rot on rear passenger side using a SafeTCap (about $1,200 for the part and the welding it on)
- Installed new rack bushings (Moog)
- Had timing belt service done at my local stealer
- Reseale the oil pan
- Installed a new muffler in order to pass emissions
- Installed a new head unit (Pioneer DEH80PRS) along with JL audio front-door speakers, Compact Kenwood sub, and Kenwood tweeters

Maybe one of these days I'll get to the driver's side sun visor. Summer's probably a good time to do that.

The maintenance cost stings a little but it passes quickly. I mean, at this rate, I think I can get 500K miles out of this puppy.
 
Yesterday Integrated metalworks installed a Nguyen Works dual swingout powder coated color matched Thundercloud Metallic. Had the spare tire balanced and mounted at Discount tire today.

SCS BR6
Matte Gunmetal spare
Stealth Blue all around
17x9” -38 offset
BFG MT KM3 285/70/17
 

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