What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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snydmax
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broke the nut holding the brake line on the knuckle...
This happened to me too... it was a real treat to extract. I still have yet to figure out the part number for a replacement. At Local dealer, all of their part diagrams seem to omit that one!
Zip tied in place for now
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discovered rear axle seal gone....rats....trying to sell my 2001. But in the meantime use it as a daily driver while I fix and mod my new to me 2000. The other day the brakes started pulsing...I drive lots of hills....so thought ....ok prob rotors going, typical of these in the hills ...so changed my add to say might need rotors....next day it was worse....but only down hill, on the flats it seemed fine....yesterday it was worse....this morning I look under to find I have a blown rear axle seal.
Dont know if I should take it off the market and fix....or discount it more be honest about it and move it....im so tired of working on this rusty 2001 problem child, cant wait to finish my 2000 today.
Dont know if I should take it off the market and fix....or discount it more be honest about it and move it....im so tired of working on this rusty 2001 problem child, cant wait to finish my 2000 today.
Brian.
Member
What, you mean you won't just toss the words "Priced accordingly" into the ad after listing that it needs axle seals and leave it at that? Or is that only a "trick" they do down by me ("needs nothing" pricing for "needs everything" vehicles).
Boognish96
New member
New AC idle pulley, fan clutch, and belts. Yesterday did transmission, rear diff, transfer case, new plugs, wires, and coils, PCV valve. Running like a top now. OME springs ATM. gonna do ball joints and tie rods. going OEM on the ball joints thinking about Sankei 555 for the tie rod ends, does anyone have any thoughts about that?
Devbot
New member
Was out crawling a very tight and rocky trail, had to try and make room for some Rzrs to pass and bumped a boulder I couldn't see. It's not creased bad and the paint makes it look worse than it is but still a major bummer - doesn't help I've been putting off my tire carrier for a month either
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Devbot
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oh boy... pics?
Well that's one way to debadge it.
Devbot
New member
Certainly is. Also apparently a quick way to spend nearly $3k, CBI rear bumpers are damn expensive ($750 in shipping+tax doesn't help either...) and unfortunately it looks like some extensive fab work would be needed to attach your own swingout and have it look clean. Oh well, I'd probably only save a few hundred in the end anyways, what with paying my welder and the current price of steel. Said buddy of mine just made some very basic sliders for a GX the other day, and it was over $500 just for materials! Crazy :flame:
fatherohenry
Member
Front Sway Bar Bushings
I saw the Prothane 18-1115 front sway bar bushing kit on Amazon while buying some bulk jerky so I threw that and some rear bushings in the cart too.
I was prepared for the worst having read so many posts about bolts breaking and whatnot. Imagine my surprise when after breaking loose the nuts and bolts I was able to remove them all by hand! (well, not the end links)
I'm absolutely amazed at the difference it made! The 4Runner feels more solid, bumps in the road are smoother, the shaking at 65+ mph is nearly gone, and maybe it's a coincidence but even braking on the freeway off ramp felt better. Thanks for the bushing suggestion [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] !
Rear sway bar and steering rack bushings are next but I'm not looking forward to doing the rack bushings alone. Still new to all this but I figure if I can do LBJs I can do that.
I do have a question: I greased the hell out of all the bushings based on posts I've read about squeaking and I think it affected my torque readings on the end links. It's only 14 pounds but I got to a point where it felt like I was going too far and the wrench hadn't clicked so I stopped. Does this look kosher or should I go back and tighten until I get that click?
There was a lot more thread showing on the originals and it sure didn't feel like 14 pounds but I didn't want to squeeze those things to death. And I just realized I forgot the Blue 42. Amateur.
I saw the Prothane 18-1115 front sway bar bushing kit on Amazon while buying some bulk jerky so I threw that and some rear bushings in the cart too.
I was prepared for the worst having read so many posts about bolts breaking and whatnot. Imagine my surprise when after breaking loose the nuts and bolts I was able to remove them all by hand! (well, not the end links)
I'm absolutely amazed at the difference it made! The 4Runner feels more solid, bumps in the road are smoother, the shaking at 65+ mph is nearly gone, and maybe it's a coincidence but even braking on the freeway off ramp felt better. Thanks for the bushing suggestion [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] !
Rear sway bar and steering rack bushings are next but I'm not looking forward to doing the rack bushings alone. Still new to all this but I figure if I can do LBJs I can do that.
I do have a question: I greased the hell out of all the bushings based on posts I've read about squeaking and I think it affected my torque readings on the end links. It's only 14 pounds but I got to a point where it felt like I was going too far and the wrench hadn't clicked so I stopped. Does this look kosher or should I go back and tighten until I get that click?
There was a lot more thread showing on the originals and it sure didn't feel like 14 pounds but I didn't want to squeeze those things to death. And I just realized I forgot the Blue 42. Amateur.
Breaker Bar
Member
JZiggy
Senior Member
Front Sway Bar Bushings
I saw the Prothane 18-1115 front sway bar bushing kit on Amazon while buying some bulk jerky so I threw that and some rear bushings in the cart too.
I was prepared for the worst having read so many posts about bolts breaking and whatnot. Imagine my surprise when after breaking loose the nuts and bolts I was able to remove them all by hand! (well, not the end links)
I'm absolutely amazed at the difference it made! The 4Runner feels more solid, bumps in the road are smoother, the shaking at 65+ mph is nearly gone, and maybe it's a coincidence but even braking on the freeway off ramp felt better. Thanks for the bushing suggestion [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] !
Rear sway bar and steering rack bushings are next but I'm not looking forward to doing the rack bushings alone. Still new to all this but I figure if I can do LBJs I can do that.
I do have a question: I greased the hell out of all the bushings based on posts I've read about squeaking and I think it affected my torque readings on the end links. It's only 14 pounds but I got to a point where it felt like I was going too far and the wrench hadn't clicked so I stopped. Does this look kosher or should I go back and tighten until I get that click?
There was a lot more thread showing on the originals and it sure didn't feel like 14 pounds but I didn't want to squeeze those things to death. And I just realized I forgot the Blue 42. Amateur.
Not a big deal to leave them how they are but you can tighten them more. The grease doesn’t really impact it. The bushings should be squished out to the diameter of the washers. Also the nut should hit the end of the thread on the stud and bottom out around that point.
on the 2000...fixed a burned out dash bulb, gray wire mod for locker, finished install of LED turn signals, brake lights and back up lights , bug deflector on hood, visors on windows, switched weathertec floor mats and cargo liner from 2001.need to adjust headlights, one is pointing way down. Havent done it on a 4runner yet
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fatherohenry
Member
Good to know, thank you!
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