What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Trying to figure out why my 4runner starts but dies after warming up. Driving one night and it died on me. Would start up after it died. Waited about 10-20 min then it started back up. Drove back home fine once I got home I revved up the engine a little then it died. All light radio dash lights all working alarm works. Battery is brand new bought last week. Tested battery and alternator when car is off battery at 12.60v when I start car battery at 13.70v-14.08v so alternator is still good. I thought it was air filter that’s not the problem either. Checked all fuses in engine and under the dash nothing blown. Can’t seem to figure out what else could cause this. Idk if it’s something with fuel or if it’s something else that’s electrical. Just trying to figure out steps I can take in the eliminating process. Please let me know any advice helps
 
Went to DIY automotive in Denver and threw my 4runner up on lifts for some front end work! New OEM LBJs, energy poly steering rack bushings and an oil change. Now I’m ready for my moab trip in a few weeks
 
Trying to figure out why my 4runner starts but dies after warming up. Driving one night and it died on me. Would start up after it died. Waited about 10-20 min then it started back up. Drove back home fine once I got home I revved up the engine a little then it died. All light radio dash lights all working alarm works. Battery is brand new bought last week. Tested battery and alternator when car is off battery at 12.60v when I start car battery at 13.70v-14.08v so alternator is still good. I thought it was air filter that’s not the problem either. Checked all fuses in engine and under the dash nothing blown. Can’t seem to figure out what else could cause this. Idk if it’s something with fuel or if it’s something else that’s electrical. Just trying to figure out steps I can take in the eliminating process. Please let me know any advice helps

Electrical components tend to be heat sensitive, so something may work fine when cold, but when everything warms up it may cause problems. The first thing I would be looking at given what you are describing would be ignition coils and spark plug wires.
 
Trying to figure out why my 4runner starts but dies after warming up. Driving one night and it died on me. Would start up after it died. Waited about 10-20 min then it started back up. Drove back home fine once I got home I revved up the engine a little then it died. All light radio dash lights all working alarm works. Battery is brand new bought last week. Tested battery and alternator when car is off battery at 12.60v when I start car battery at 13.70v-14.08v so alternator is still good. I thought it was air filter that’s not the problem either. Checked all fuses in engine and under the dash nothing blown. Can’t seem to figure out what else could cause this. Idk if it’s something with fuel or if it’s something else that’s electrical. Just trying to figure out steps I can take in the eliminating process. Please let me know any advice helps

When was the fuel filter last changed?
 
5min of stickers :eyebrows:
 

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When was the fuel filter last changed?
Not too sure when fuel filter was last changed I got this 4runner from a friend little over a year ago and I haven’t changed fuel filter. But if it was something with fuel wouldn’t it sputter or misfire before dying or vibrate the car?
 
Electrical components tend to be heat sensitive, so something may work fine when cold, but when everything warms up it may cause problems. The first thing I would be looking at given what you are describing would be ignition coils and spark plug wires.

I’ll check and get back to u on that but if it was ignition coils or spark plug wires wouldn’t it sputter before dying out/stalling?
 
Took my Ohana to Disneyland & Universal Hollywood from M-Sat. Yesterday, to my surprise was ShowstoppersUSA 9 minutes away and I stopped by. The rims I bought from FB marketplace bought the set he had from there. One of the employees GX470 was there and I asked him if I could snap a pic.
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My suspension was also done on Tuesday while I was on vacation.
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These were the rims that was purchased from SHOWSTOPPERSUSA & how the truck looked before the SAS
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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Working on replacing some suspension parts( upper arm bushings, upper ball joint, lower ball joint, lower arm bushings), and after pressing out the old upper arm bushings and pressing in the new Toyota bushings, the upper arm would NOT go back on the car! The bushing sleeves are something like 1/16” too close. Anyone run into that before?
 
Opened up the valve cover for the second weekend in a row to replace 12 of 16 shims. Getting the two furthest shims against the firewall was a huge PIA. I nearly gave up a couple times, but finally got them. Glad to be done with that job.

Runs slightly smoother, but there is a new faint dull tapping sound that almost sounds like a cam lobe smacking the shim. Everything is in spec now, so that shouldn't be happening. Might just be imagining sounds.
 
Scored at the junkyard this weekend. Pulled an almost perfect fully assembled tailgate , 01-02 tail lights, and full sport interior trim pieces. Also took off my roofrack.
 

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Not to my 4Runner but for my 4Runner.

I've been on the lookout for Harbor Freight sales or Craigslist scores and finally found a 20 ton press for $80. Now I just need to find some adapters and figure out which bushings to replace first.

Honestly afraid of screwing up any maintenance that requires it but at least now I can pay full attention to several of [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]'s videos instead of being distracted by wishing I had a press.

jqJexmU.jpg
 
Not to my 4Runner but for my 4Runner.

I've been on the lookout for Harbor Freight sales or Craigslist scores and finally found a 20 ton press for $80. Now I just need to find some adapters and figure out which bushings to replace first.

Honestly afraid of screwing up any maintenance that requires it but at least now I can pay full attention to several of [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]'s videos instead of being distracted by wishing I had a press.

jqJexmU.jpg

I bought the cheapest press sleeve kit I could find... NLA on ebay, but this is damn close:

Universal Press and Pull Sleeve Remove Install Bushes Bearings Garage Tool Kit | eBay

A healthy respect for the press is good, but the chance of messing something up is slim given than A) you can form coherent thoughts (your brain functions) and B) you've watched Timmy and Seans videos. You've got what it takes to do the job without messing anything up, now it's just faith in yourself. If you're worried, then do the panhard bar bushings first, they came out SUPER easy. Move to the rest of the rear control arms next and then once you have those 10 bushings down you should be quite comfortable with the rest.

Best improvement I've done to my 4runner, without question.
 
Measured tread depth, located the lowest tire, and rotated all 5 tires, putting the lowest on the swingout.

Also bled brakes while I was at it, good to get the old fluid out ever 4 or 5 years. It slowly gets contaminated with water and will boil more easily, and if it gets bad enough, can start rusting things internally. Which is not good.

This went well on the first 3 out of 4 brakes, until I got to the FR wheel (the one with the lowest tread, so I did it last). And the bleeder was *STUCK*. Yeah... I live in the salt belt, and it's a fight keeping the 4Runner from rusting away. A long, slow, losing battle.

Anyhow, I tried PBLaster, tapped on with a small hammer to help it penetrate, gently tried turning the bleeder in both directions (for some reason, going a *tiny* bit in the tighter direction often helps really stuck bolts). And... yeah, it broke off. So I decided to fuss with it a bit more, easy out in the hole, vice grips on the nub, wiggle, wiggle, yay, it broke free! Lol, JK, it did what usually happens when you resort to trying easy outs, the easy out breaks.

So FINE, I'll just not bleed that corner. But I wanted to make sure I hadn't managed to get that bleeder to leak, so after a very firm press on the pedal revealed no leaks, I went to put the wheel back on and discovered the brakes were dragging slightly. So in addition to a newly broken bleeder, it's sticky too? Two strikes is more than enough for a brake caliper. Ordered a new caliper. This has the 231mm Tundra brakes, I put them on maybe 8 or 9 years ago. No complaints, they were dirt cheap Rock Auto calipers to begin with.

Follow-up - the flailing on this continued. I got a new pair of painted Tundra calipers in, since RUST BELT! As I was putting them on, one of the hard lines that runs between the caliper and hose cracked as I loosened it - the end of it was corroded and the line stuck to the end. As soon as it moved a tiny bit, it started leaking. *SIGH*

Ordered a new pair of lines, it's crusty on the end on the other side as well - the coating on the steel line gets damaged when you remove/replace a caliper I guess.

I went ahead and replaced both calipers while I was at it. Lines arrive tomorrow so I'll finish up the job then. I plugged the open brake line and put saran wrap under the brake reservoir lid to stop the whole system from bleeding dry.
 
Fuel injector 2 and 6 are misfiring. Do hopefully gonna figure out what the issue is.. is it possible it's anything other than the injector itself?
 
Fuel injector 2 and 6 are misfiring. Do hopefully gonna figure out what the issue is.. is it possible it's anything other than the injector itself?
Have you checked spark plugs/wire/coils? Have you tried swapping any of those around and seeing if the misfire follows? Have you checked spark and compression?
 
Replaced the front stabilizer bar brackets and swapped in a new master cylinder. However the master cylinder didn’t fix my soft pedal issue. Bench bled it then bled the wheels and still no fix. Bled the master cylinder while mounted and alas the problem is still there. Only thing to check now is to see if I can bypass the abs somehow to see if that is the soft pedal issue.

It is really begin to frustrate me.
 
Replaced the front stabilizer bar brackets and swapped in a new master cylinder. However the master cylinder didn’t fix my soft pedal issue. Bench bled it then bled the wheels and still no fix. Bled the master cylinder while mounted and alas the problem is still there. Only thing to check now is to see if I can bypass the abs somehow to see if that is the soft pedal issue.

It is really begin to frustrate me.

Tundra brake upgrade? You're probably not going to find a fix if so... seems to be a common theme with the TBU.
 
Tundra brake upgrade? You're probably not going to find a fix if so... seems to be a common theme with the TBU.

I've had two 3rd gens w/ 231mm tundra brakes and never had an issue w/ soft pedal... I did replace the old rubber brake lines w/ steel braided. You should replace those lines anyway on a 20 plus year old vehicle.
 
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