What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Spiker Engineering
official vendor
SKP SK90619, I got them from Rockauto for a whopping $6.71 each - must be super good!
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ARTHUR4STX
Junior Member
fatherohenry
Member
Replaced ITREs
Did my OTREs last August and had to wobble up to get an alignment.
I Learned from my mistakes and it doesn't even feel like she needs an alignment after doing the inners today. It'll be interesting to see the numbers at the alignment shop in the morning.
I bought some skinny wrenches for this job per The Toolman's video. I also went with ACDELCOs as I've only driven 47K miles in the last 10 years and those OEM inners aren't cheap.
Trouble is, the ACDELCOs have even less room to grip than what was on there.
Ended up using an inner tie rod tool from Autozone to tighten them and even that barely fit. Hope that didn't screw up my rack.
One thing for sure though - a good portion of time spent on this was getting those damn boot clamps on. I might have just used zip ties but I'd bought 2 brand new clamps for this and by God they weren't going to waste.
Did my OTREs last August and had to wobble up to get an alignment.
I Learned from my mistakes and it doesn't even feel like she needs an alignment after doing the inners today. It'll be interesting to see the numbers at the alignment shop in the morning.
I bought some skinny wrenches for this job per The Toolman's video. I also went with ACDELCOs as I've only driven 47K miles in the last 10 years and those OEM inners aren't cheap.
Trouble is, the ACDELCOs have even less room to grip than what was on there.
Ended up using an inner tie rod tool from Autozone to tighten them and even that barely fit. Hope that didn't screw up my rack.
One thing for sure though - a good portion of time spent on this was getting those damn boot clamps on. I might have just used zip ties but I'd bought 2 brand new clamps for this and by God they weren't going to waste.
WhatThePuck
New member
Dropped the 'ol boy at the shop for some steering and starting issues. we'll see how deep the hole is once my mechanic gets in there lol
*update:
low on power steering fluid; there's a leak somewhere and my mechanic has to get in there and clean everything to find the leak. And it is my starter that's acting up. well then. lol
*update:
low on power steering fluid; there's a leak somewhere and my mechanic has to get in there and clean everything to find the leak. And it is my starter that's acting up. well then. lol
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turbodudey2
New member
Supercharged it...
Supercharged it…
Supercharged it…
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99 W/ Kids
New member
Yup, that's the exact issue. It's due to worn bushings (or poor assembly) of the shifter. I fought it myself when I got mine... this stupid piece:
Here's the write-up for replacing the (upper only?) bushings:
Loose Shifter? - Replace your shifter bushings! - Write up with pictures
Auto Trans Shifter Bushing Replacement & Transfer Case Shifter Seat Replacement (3rd Gen 4runner) - YouTube
That video will probably give you all the details you need (though I didn't watch to verify, Timmy and Sean are usually Very good about their videos.)
Plenty of other threads in the forums too, if you feel like searching for different angles of describing the whole thing. I didn't find any change/benefit to changing the shifter bushings, even with 2 mostly disintegrated. But the key being let loose from the ignition every time was worth it.
Thanks Brian!! Great info, I appreciate you taking the time to help. This will save me some headaches. You know, this forum has saved me so much time and money over the years. The unknown creates fear but knowledge is power!
Great knowledge!
99 W/ Kids
New member
Great info! Thanks for the help. Looking forward to getting deeper into all of this.
CRB Racing
New member
I reminisced of when it had a paper plate…
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CRB Racing
New member
Thanks! Just so happened that I needed a set.
Can’t complain about the price!
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Installed brand new OEM rear hatch struts. No more aftermarket struts for me! The aftermarkets didn’t even last 2 years before beginning to sag again. Plus they made the hatch feel 50 lbs heavier right from the beginning. Now the hatch opens and closes with ease like on a brand new vehicle!
ARTHUR4STX
Junior Member
They are GT RADIAL KOMODO MT PLUS 265 75 16 I got ‘em off eBay for $158 each. I had KUMHO KL71 before these and paid $550 for the set same size the kumho were a little wider and these are taller would rub a bit before the 5900s I like the way the GT RADIAL tires ride haven’t gone in the mud or sand yet but they ride great since June 21
fatherohenry
Member
On a newly acquired '01 SR5 with 144K miles, we paired two new key fobs, replaced the driver's door lock actuator, soldered three broken conductors located at the rear tailgate hinge and which were preventing the rear window from rolling down and the rear door lock from locking, inspected and (hopefully) resealed the charcoal cannister (due to P0440 and P0446 codes), sanded and painted some rust spots on the hood, drained and refilled the rear diff fluid, and changed the oil.
Brian.
Member
Sounds like a good start, but why no the front diff, transmission, coolant, brake and power steering fluids too? They are all consumables too...
Might want to give some Serious thought to replacing the lower ball joints (LBJ) as they are a failure-prone design and when they fail, the front wheel falls off. And then the radiator, which doesn't fail as often but when it does, it takes out the transmission (trans cooler is integrated, failure mixes coolants with ATF). About $350 in parts (you need new bolts for the LBJ) and a couple hours time.
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