Spiker Engineering
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Doing some tinkering for my next project... Not my finest fab job, but it won't be seen once installed 
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What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Doing some tinkering for my next project... Not my finest fab job, but it won't be seen once installed
ok....what is it
Under hood arb compressor mounting bracket?Doing some tinkering for my next project... Not my finest fab job, but it won't be seen once installed
UltraSheen
New member
Center console arms and hinge
I bought this one in October.
I broke one of the little center console arms. The hinge was broken when I purchased the truck, and a sideways pressure as I got positioned in the seat moved the lid enough to snap the little snap-fit pin (male side of the clip) off the arm.
I used some flex glue and black fabric on both sides of the hinge and though stiffer than I'd like, it worked great. (It's not like I open and close the center console a lot.) The center console lid latches in perfectly and stays aligned.
I modeled a replacement for the arm in TinkerCad and mirrored it for the other arm (for some reason, they're not perfectly mirrored...). I installed it and the little snap-fit pin snapped off again. I think the pin was too small and the torque applied was parallel with the layers of the 3D printed body, which created a weak point. I beefed up the pin. I beefed it up a little too much, in fact, and it wouldn't snap into the lid's hole. A little sandpaper in a circular motion around both the arms' pins fixed the problem. They finally snapped tightly into place.
Now I have a fixed hinge and arms. The console doesn't flop around or off if opened too far.
I bought this one in October.
I broke one of the little center console arms. The hinge was broken when I purchased the truck, and a sideways pressure as I got positioned in the seat moved the lid enough to snap the little snap-fit pin (male side of the clip) off the arm.
I used some flex glue and black fabric on both sides of the hinge and though stiffer than I'd like, it worked great. (It's not like I open and close the center console a lot.) The center console lid latches in perfectly and stays aligned.
I modeled a replacement for the arm in TinkerCad and mirrored it for the other arm (for some reason, they're not perfectly mirrored...). I installed it and the little snap-fit pin snapped off again. I think the pin was too small and the torque applied was parallel with the layers of the 3D printed body, which created a weak point. I beefed up the pin. I beefed it up a little too much, in fact, and it wouldn't snap into the lid's hole. A little sandpaper in a circular motion around both the arms' pins fixed the problem. They finally snapped tightly into place.
Now I have a fixed hinge and arms. The console doesn't flop around or off if opened too far.
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Spiker Engineering
official vendor
No, nothing that practical
. It's a mount for a cut-off switch for the winch, that I decided to add to avoid having an always-hot battery cable located right behind the front bumper.The bracket will attach to the cowl (rear two holes) and the evap unit (front hole):
CrudRunner
New member
Light bar question
I recently replaced both relays that control light bar and aux backup lights. Now the light bar will occasionally have a few of the elements light up when switch is off. When activated the whole bar lights correctly, turn it off and after a few seconds some elements turn back on. I removed the switch entirely in case it was making micro contact, elements remain on with switch removed. Pulling fuse kills everything. The rear lights are on identical but separate harness, and I have no such issue.
Thoughts on why this may be occuring, and how I might fix it?
Note: the light bar did not have this issue prior to new relays replacing the rusted out old ones. Swapped relays, same thing.
I recently replaced both relays that control light bar and aux backup lights. Now the light bar will occasionally have a few of the elements light up when switch is off. When activated the whole bar lights correctly, turn it off and after a few seconds some elements turn back on. I removed the switch entirely in case it was making micro contact, elements remain on with switch removed. Pulling fuse kills everything. The rear lights are on identical but separate harness, and I have no such issue.
Thoughts on why this may be occuring, and how I might fix it?
Note: the light bar did not have this issue prior to new relays replacing the rusted out old ones. Swapped relays, same thing.
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rapidpoison
Junior Member
Finished motor swap, everything is running pretty smooth, no issues when starting, no leaks so far. Only issue I am having is it is misfiring at high rpms, 3100-4000, only happens when I step on it to accelerate. Around town, idle, hwy driving are all super smooth. I used my old coil packs, injectors, but used the spark plugs that came with the motor I bought. I ordered new spark plugs, replaced the fuel filter. If new plugs dont fix this does anyone have an idea to help fix this? Codes show that it misses on Cyl 1, and Cyl 6. Also to add, my old motor before it siezed from a cracked head, did not misfire.
cylinders 1 and 4 use the same coil pack. so misfire on 1 and 6 could be somthing else. For instance...these rigs are so solid that you could have the spark plug wires wrong and feeding wrong cylinders. and it will still run kind of good till upper rpms or when you stomp on it. I know this cause I bought a 4runner with a similar miss fire and there was 2 things wrong....crappy plugs and wrong wire lay out.
but low speed, low rpm and on flat ground...ran fine...basically running on 4 cylinders.
but low speed, low rpm and on flat ground...ran fine...basically running on 4 cylinders.
spartacus
Senior Member
Misfire at high rpm, guessing it's running lean. check for vaccum leaks and assuming the Maf is clean.
Picked up this 3rd Gen. It's awesome. I have to say.. I do prefer the AWD in the 01-02s for driving on ice/snow buuut this thing is super clean. Got my new wheels in for it. Just waiting on the tires now. I'll probably swap out the teal decal for a white one this summer sometime. 
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
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Pops 4Runner
My father n law passed recently and wife n sister were in process of selling thier moms car n Pops 2000 4Runner SR5. So I asked if I could buy it. 180k and garage kept and lovingly maintained. He always had a bare bones company car and when he retired the SR5 was his first and only car. So today took possession. . 1. Inspection.... Passed. 2. Registered 3. Filled tank and went to my mechanic to discuss some minor issues:
Airbag light blinking____mechanic suggested either place some black tape over it or pay him up to 600 to fix
Check fluids and tune-up at later date
Checked shocks and they might need replacement but should drive it for a month and see
Need to replace antenna mast as it wont extend but motor still works..... Mechanic said if I would find the part he would install but that I could probably do it myself.
My father n law passed recently and wife n sister were in process of selling thier moms car n Pops 2000 4Runner SR5. So I asked if I could buy it. 180k and garage kept and lovingly maintained. He always had a bare bones company car and when he retired the SR5 was his first and only car. So today took possession. . 1. Inspection.... Passed. 2. Registered 3. Filled tank and went to my mechanic to discuss some minor issues:
Airbag light blinking____mechanic suggested either place some black tape over it or pay him up to 600 to fix
Check fluids and tune-up at later date
Checked shocks and they might need replacement but should drive it for a month and see
Need to replace antenna mast as it wont extend but motor still works..... Mechanic said if I would find the part he would install but that I could probably do it myself.
Devbot
New member
Monday afternoon I replaced my raptor lights in my SRQ grille for the second time.
This morning, less than two full days later I noticed one is already burnt out - looked closer and see there's condensation in two of the three brand new bulbs
:frusty: :frusty: :frusty:
This morning, less than two full days later I noticed one is already burnt out - looked closer and see there's condensation in two of the three brand new bulbs
:frusty: :frusty: :frusty:
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Devbot
New member
I would find a new mechanic as soon as absolutely possible. That attitude of his is absolutely horrific and is gonna screw you (and only you) sooner than later.
I mean that statement in and of itself is extremely telling; either he's acknowledging he knows the source of the problem and knows it's so minor that you can ignore it, but is also trying to convince you it's gonna run a minimum of $600 in labor to fix (which doesn't add up already); OR that he doesn't have a clue what the source is or the severity of the problem, nor does he really care (all exampled by suggesting to merely cover it up and ignore an airbag warning light of all things) but he's willing to charge you 6x the regular cost of diagnostics to figure it out and maybe throw some redneckery at it - if they don't try and further sell you more services at that point under the guise of it being "more extensive than we previously thought."
If you're unable to do the work yourself, ALWAYS get two or three quotes from different mechanics. To me it sounds like that $600 was either pulled right from his ass, or perhaps he's been craving a new TV.
Just my 2 cents.
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UltraSheen
New member
Interior LEDs replaced
I replaced the interior lights with LEDs. I bought the package here: Amazon.com: DODOFUN Interior LED Light Kit Compatible with 1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner ( 13-pc Bulb 6000k ) : Automotive
Most went in easily, but the one in the glove box was a real pain. As it turns out, the whole assembly will come out and I found that easier to manage the bulb removal that way. Your mileage may vary.
I broke the tab before I figured out how to open it, so I pulled out the whole thing, replaced the bulb with an LED, used a little cloth electrical tape to keep the lid closed now that the tab was broken, and replaced it.
When I had first put the LED in the socket, it didn't light. I swapped it. It still didn't light. The key here is that you have to have the headlights ON! See this thread: Glove box light bulb change....
I don't think it was a great decision to not have it switched on the glove box door. It's on ANY AND ALL the time your headlights are on, even though there's no use -- the glove box is usually closed. That's why so many people never even know there's a light in there.
The LED on the vanity mirror is very bright in day time, and obviously this is more dramatic at night. I may have to change that. My wife has registered her complaint, and unless I want to suffer, I have to take all her complaints seriously.
Other than those little miscues, the LED installation was obviously very easy. But what a huge difference it makes.
I replaced the interior lights with LEDs. I bought the package here: Amazon.com: DODOFUN Interior LED Light Kit Compatible with 1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner ( 13-pc Bulb 6000k ) : Automotive
Most went in easily, but the one in the glove box was a real pain. As it turns out, the whole assembly will come out and I found that easier to manage the bulb removal that way. Your mileage may vary.
I broke the tab before I figured out how to open it, so I pulled out the whole thing, replaced the bulb with an LED, used a little cloth electrical tape to keep the lid closed now that the tab was broken, and replaced it.
When I had first put the LED in the socket, it didn't light. I swapped it. It still didn't light. The key here is that you have to have the headlights ON! See this thread: Glove box light bulb change....
I don't think it was a great decision to not have it switched on the glove box door. It's on ANY AND ALL the time your headlights are on, even though there's no use -- the glove box is usually closed. That's why so many people never even know there's a light in there.
The LED on the vanity mirror is very bright in day time, and obviously this is more dramatic at night. I may have to change that. My wife has registered her complaint, and unless I want to suffer, I have to take all her complaints seriously.
Other than those little miscues, the LED installation was obviously very easy. But what a huge difference it makes.
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Are those the same lights they use in their turn-signal filler panels?
Devbot
New member
Yes, they use the same ones. The problem, obviously, is they're not sealed - almost like they're meant to be interior lighting. When the grille lights went out the first time I noticed the lenses came off super easy, and since the turn signals would be pretty hard to replace individually I took the initiative to pop those ones off and put a small dab of clear gorilla glue on the back of them. At the same time I left the new grille lights alone as a sort of test to see if one would outlast the other; nearly a year later my turn signals haven't lost a single bulb but the 2nd set of raptor lights in the grille died this December
I shot them an email today about what I've noticed and asking what the deal is/why they aren't sealed, etc. I definitely can't be the only one who's had this happen, and they've been more than courteous with sending me replacements as needed - meaning they're probably losing a good bit of money on LEDs and shipping. I think it would just be better for all if they used a better bulb or something
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fatherohenry
Member
Needed to see some progress after unsuccessfully chasing an oil leak so I tackled the under hood lighting.
Toggle should be here tomorrow but the pin switch gets the job done.
I ordered 3' of the high density waterproof LEDs from Led Supply. They sent me 39" so I got that going for me, which is nice. Actually that'll just drain the battery faster - crap. It really highlights all the dirt, though.
Thanks for the inspiration [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION]!
Toggle should be here tomorrow but the pin switch gets the job done.
I ordered 3' of the high density waterproof LEDs from Led Supply. They sent me 39" so I got that going for me, which is nice. Actually that'll just drain the battery faster - crap. It really highlights all the dirt, though.
Thanks for the inspiration [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION]!
Devbot
New member
Needed to see some progress after unsuccessfully chasing an oil leak so I tackled the under hood lighting.
Toggle should be here tomorrow but the pin switch gets the job done.
Hmm, I'm wondering if my PO did this before then removed whatever lights he had. I had the same switch in the same spot when I got the car, but the wires to it were clipped and just tucked away. Was always very curious what it went to, I never saw one of those pin switches before
If he did I'm gonna be pissed, that would've been sick :brick:
fatherohenry
Member
Well you know if I did it it's a simple job! The old links I found here no longer offered the LED strips by the foot but I found a place that did. $20 for 3 feet seemed a bit steep to me but hell, let there be light! (you already have the switch!)
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96 ToyRunner
Member
Installed my 3rd starter at 354,179 ..got tired of changing orielys reman starters every year so I bought a Bosch reman that was recommended to me by the local starter and alternate rebuilder ...I’m in search for a factory one to get rebuild ....Also I absolutely hate changing the starter on a 3rd gen 4Runner
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