Isnt there supposed to be a rubber boot on the top ?
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Isnt there supposed to be a rubber boot on the top ?
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Not per the Anon Fab site....I asked and am awaiting response
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fourfive
Senior Member
Battery light & alternator
A few weeks ago my battery light would stay on at initial start up & my scangauge voltage would read about 10.8 but would gradually return to about 13.8 after about 5 minutes of driving. Over the course of a few days my battery light would stay on for longer periods, still around the 10 range before going back up to 13.8. Assuming my alternator was on its way out I ordered a new alternator from parts.cobbcountytoyota.com. Unfortunately my alternator went out while I was on my way home before my new one arrived but thankfully I was able to somewhat plan for it based on the voltage readings on my scangauge & was able to safely pull into a neighborhood & get in a position for easy towing.
Removal & install was pretty straightforward but the main reason the new alternator went in easy was that I borrowed a method [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] & [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] show in their big 3 upgrade video. They used a bolt & a couple nuts to press a sleeve outward to allow the alternator to go in easier. When I initially tried installing my new oem alternator, it was a tight fit & could see it would put up a fight to get everything in place & lined up. At first I tried using a small c-clamp & socket but couldn't get enough leverage on the small handle of the c-clamp to move the sleeve. The bolt & nut method worked out a lot better.
Fast forward to 12min 40sec to get a visual of the sleeve that when pressed out a little bit makes the install significantly easier.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fs1RotngY-Q
Since the alternator that died was the original one, I decided to order parts to rebuild it & have a spare.
Part numbers for alternator rebuild:
Brush Assembly 27370-75060
Brush Cover 27388-42010
Bearing Cover 27443-63020
Bearing (rear) 90099-10140
Bearing (front) 90099-10192
Seal Sub-assembly 27064-42010
Washer 27384-50030
Insulation Washer 27387-42021
Terminal Insulator (need 4) 27389-42010
A few weeks ago my battery light would stay on at initial start up & my scangauge voltage would read about 10.8 but would gradually return to about 13.8 after about 5 minutes of driving. Over the course of a few days my battery light would stay on for longer periods, still around the 10 range before going back up to 13.8. Assuming my alternator was on its way out I ordered a new alternator from parts.cobbcountytoyota.com. Unfortunately my alternator went out while I was on my way home before my new one arrived but thankfully I was able to somewhat plan for it based on the voltage readings on my scangauge & was able to safely pull into a neighborhood & get in a position for easy towing.
Removal & install was pretty straightforward but the main reason the new alternator went in easy was that I borrowed a method [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] & [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] show in their big 3 upgrade video. They used a bolt & a couple nuts to press a sleeve outward to allow the alternator to go in easier. When I initially tried installing my new oem alternator, it was a tight fit & could see it would put up a fight to get everything in place & lined up. At first I tried using a small c-clamp & socket but couldn't get enough leverage on the small handle of the c-clamp to move the sleeve. The bolt & nut method worked out a lot better.
Fast forward to 12min 40sec to get a visual of the sleeve that when pressed out a little bit makes the install significantly easier.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fs1RotngY-Q
Since the alternator that died was the original one, I decided to order parts to rebuild it & have a spare.
Part numbers for alternator rebuild:
Brush Assembly 27370-75060
Brush Cover 27388-42010
Bearing Cover 27443-63020
Bearing (rear) 90099-10140
Bearing (front) 90099-10192
Seal Sub-assembly 27064-42010
Washer 27384-50030
Insulation Washer 27387-42021
Terminal Insulator (need 4) 27389-42010
The do not come with any rubber boot, when I 1st read up on these on Assburns forum peeps asked the thing and No was the answer
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Corroborated with Josh from Anon Fab yesterday. No boot.
There is a 3D printed cap covering the uniball bolt that you can see in my pic, and here
I'll ask [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] his thoughts about adding a boot, maybe [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] can/will chime in, too
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guess I did not notice that they were not stock LBJ which does have a boot
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Yes, modded factory to replace the ball joint with uniball stud
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Today, I changed out both of my brake light bulbs as they both were out! (how did no one tell me I had no brake lights?! I'm truly thankful no one rear ended me too. Yikes!)
Strangely enough, (or perhaps not a coincidence at all, but perfectly intentional by Yota?) I had been dealing with an intermittent ABS light on my dash in the days leading up to the realization that the bulbs were burned out.
Now that the bulbs have been replaced, the ABS light has not come back on.
Is that something y'all have seen before? That the ABS light is an indicator to check everything over in the system, including the lightbulbs themselves?
Strangely enough, (or perhaps not a coincidence at all, but perfectly intentional by Yota?) I had been dealing with an intermittent ABS light on my dash in the days leading up to the realization that the bulbs were burned out.
Now that the bulbs have been replaced, the ABS light has not come back on.
Is that something y'all have seen before? That the ABS light is an indicator to check everything over in the system, including the lightbulbs themselves?
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Brian.
Member
Gratz! Make Sure you address the lower ball joints (LBJ) and radiator ASAP ~ 2 more known and prominent causes of the vehicle being totaled/damaged that are easily and cheaply rectified.
JZiggy
Senior Member
I’m interested to see how these turn out for you. I bet we can find a lower boot for these things too just to keep the dust off.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
LC boots would probably work, or perhaps use the Energy boot finder page
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There's just nothing to attach a boot to at the base, so it's just a "pressure fit" from the spindle holding the boot down
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Search for a similar post and replyI'm at a brick wall with my issues. All alignment and suspension geometry related. I want to make a thread for it but since I'm "new" it won't let me post
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Try asking your question in this thread: The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed ThreadI'm at a brick wall with my issues. All alignment and suspension geometry related. I want to make a thread for it but since I'm "new" it won't let me post
JZiggy
Senior Member
octanejunkie
Elite Member
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Picked this up to keep on the truck
3/8 drive, 6-point, 6-24mm long and short set for $86 (used like new)
Regular sale price is $98
Amazon.com: TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive 6-Point Socket and Ratchet Set, 43-Piece (6-24 mm) | SKT15201 : Everything Else
EDIT: I realized after receiving it that I purchased a "used like new" item, but neither the box it came in nor the product itself appeared to have been opened before I received it.
3/8 drive, 6-point, 6-24mm long and short set for $86 (used like new)
Regular sale price is $98
Amazon.com: TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive 6-Point Socket and Ratchet Set, 43-Piece (6-24 mm) | SKT15201 : Everything Else
EDIT: I realized after receiving it that I purchased a "used like new" item, but neither the box it came in nor the product itself appeared to have been opened before I received it.
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
Just tightened my valve cover bolts on the 5VZ. Man, pretty wild how they were as loose as they were. Not loose to the point where you could turn them by hand, but loose enough that the wrench had to be turned numerous times. Then hit the covers themselves with brake parts cleaner. Super happy I did that!
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