96 ToyRunner
Member
Changed oil at 359,186
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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jharri7140
New member
Ripped off the intake and rebuilt the fuel injectors.
jharri7140
New member
Drove it to work too
octanejunkie
Elite Member
[emoji23]I would recommend oil changes more frequent than that
I assumed that wasn't the first one
96 ToyRunner
Member
I would recommend oil changes more frequent than that
It’s like transmission fluid it don’t really ever need to be changed it’s just fluid
octanejunkie
Elite Member
You mean like the lifetime Toyota fuel filter?
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Jaysen4runner
New member
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Huey.Raine
New member
‘02 SR5 Sport Edition
5-speed + multi-mode
Finally found a ADD shifter from a Tacoma to get my multi-mode shifter at the correct angle. Tapped threads to the D slot shaft and screwed on a matching H-N-L shifter to match my cue ball 5-speed knob. Now all I gotta do is run the 4WD button wires to the dash and install a switch in one of the rocker blanks on the dash.
Also bought a ‘04 Tacoma ECU to fix my CEL light from my 5-speed swap. However, when I plugged it in the truck wouldn’t start. I think I have to wire the clutch switches into the NSS switch to get the factory auto trans engine harness and Taco ECU to work together. Only problem is I don’t have the pigtail end of the clutch switches, only the switch themselves. So I’ve gotta source the other ends to the switches so I can splice them.
5-speed + multi-mode
Finally found a ADD shifter from a Tacoma to get my multi-mode shifter at the correct angle. Tapped threads to the D slot shaft and screwed on a matching H-N-L shifter to match my cue ball 5-speed knob. Now all I gotta do is run the 4WD button wires to the dash and install a switch in one of the rocker blanks on the dash.
Also bought a ‘04 Tacoma ECU to fix my CEL light from my 5-speed swap. However, when I plugged it in the truck wouldn’t start. I think I have to wire the clutch switches into the NSS switch to get the factory auto trans engine harness and Taco ECU to work together. Only problem is I don’t have the pigtail end of the clutch switches, only the switch themselves. So I’ve gotta source the other ends to the switches so I can splice them.
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jbsmith86
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Yesterday added the forged sway bar links from Overland Custom to my '97 4Runner in the rear. One of my links had completely sheared off. It feels much more stable in the back, need to do the front soon. Link to these: Forged Ball Joint Sway Bar Links – Overland Custom Design
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No pics so it didn't happen, but I spent Saturday putting my NWF Eco-crawler into the 4Runner. Spent a good long while putting it in, and only then realized I needed to clock that front output up more so it wouldn't hit the transfer case skid plate. It sticks 6.5-ish inches further back, the drivetrain angles down some, I'd assembled it clocked up a little, but it needed more. So I spent a bit of time trying to remove the 8 nuts and studs on the case and rotate it in place, but in the tunnel, I just couldn't get to 3 of them. So it all came out again, clocked it more, and then redid it all again.
Somehow screwed up on the front driveshaft measurements, it should probably be 2, 2.5 inches longer. The slip joint is pulled out fairly far, but the grease seal is still engaged, and it probably has 2 inches of splines engaged still. Should be OK. The rear driveshaft was spot on. That's the risks of ordering them well in advance of test fitting the whole shebang in there to get 'real' measurements.
I got the triple sticks in and adjusted. They all stick out to the right of the manual stick shift, no bumping into each other. I didn't mess with that too much because I was grungy from rolling around under the car all day, and didn't want to get the interior too messy.
Up next - I need to get another 3/8 NPT plug - I seem to have one extra smaller brass plug in my parts kit from NWF, and missing the larger one. So that, fill both cases with oil, and start working on shifter boots to close it all off. This is probably slightly complicated by an inch body lift which puts the shifters/pivot points further down. And all three levers are close to each other, and move back and forth more being an inch further up from the pivots.
Somehow screwed up on the front driveshaft measurements, it should probably be 2, 2.5 inches longer. The slip joint is pulled out fairly far, but the grease seal is still engaged, and it probably has 2 inches of splines engaged still. Should be OK. The rear driveshaft was spot on. That's the risks of ordering them well in advance of test fitting the whole shebang in there to get 'real' measurements.
I got the triple sticks in and adjusted. They all stick out to the right of the manual stick shift, no bumping into each other. I didn't mess with that too much because I was grungy from rolling around under the car all day, and didn't want to get the interior too messy.
Up next - I need to get another 3/8 NPT plug - I seem to have one extra smaller brass plug in my parts kit from NWF, and missing the larger one. So that, fill both cases with oil, and start working on shifter boots to close it all off. This is probably slightly complicated by an inch body lift which puts the shifters/pivot points further down. And all three levers are close to each other, and move back and forth more being an inch further up from the pivots.
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When I did my SAS I kept it really low and only used 10" coil overs. It worked for a lot of years but I was never happy with the ride on anything choppy.
So out with the 10s and in with 14" coilovers (200/300 coils). Also swapped out the OME 890 coils for some OME 861's in the rear.
Adding 2" front and rear plus removing the old solid bump stops with air bumps I now doubled my up travel.
New stuff:
Very tight fit around the booster:
So out with the 10s and in with 14" coilovers (200/300 coils). Also swapped out the OME 890 coils for some OME 861's in the rear.
Adding 2" front and rear plus removing the old solid bump stops with air bumps I now doubled my up travel.
New stuff:
Very tight fit around the booster:
Huey.Raine
New member
Today’s local salvage score;
RR Diff Lock Switch
Clutch Start Cancel Switch
Clutch Depress Switch Pigtail
Clutch Release Switch Pigtail
Tacoma Whip Antenna Assembly
4R is a multi-mode center diff lock w/ 5-speed swap. Plan on adding e-locker rear in the future so I went ahead and grabbed the switch.
Ordered a reverse switch pigtail from yotatech. Once it arrives I’ll be able to wire in my clutch start cancel, cruise and reverse lights to complete my 5-speed swap.
Quick question on the antenna. I know I need a different chrome nut to lock it to the fender, as it’s a different diameter than the power antenna, but will I also need the black grommet? Or are they the same?
And for the switches, does anyone make an OEM style switch that fits the blanks and somewhat matched the factory switches? I need to relocate the 4WD switch from the shifter to the dash since I changed it to a aftermarket shift knob.
RR Diff Lock Switch
Clutch Start Cancel Switch
Clutch Depress Switch Pigtail
Clutch Release Switch Pigtail
Tacoma Whip Antenna Assembly
4R is a multi-mode center diff lock w/ 5-speed swap. Plan on adding e-locker rear in the future so I went ahead and grabbed the switch.
Ordered a reverse switch pigtail from yotatech. Once it arrives I’ll be able to wire in my clutch start cancel, cruise and reverse lights to complete my 5-speed swap.
Quick question on the antenna. I know I need a different chrome nut to lock it to the fender, as it’s a different diameter than the power antenna, but will I also need the black grommet? Or are they the same?
And for the switches, does anyone make an OEM style switch that fits the blanks and somewhat matched the factory switches? I need to relocate the 4WD switch from the shifter to the dash since I changed it to a aftermarket shift knob.
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chapolito
New member
Twan
Senior Member
Had an annoying amount of reverse rake going on after putting the bumper/tire carrier on the back a while ago. Adjusted the front coilovers down and now I have a normal rake going on, but I went a bit too far. Need to bring the front back up an inch or so, especially since I got a little rub pulling in to the driveway.
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Driven mainly by impatience, I went ahead and ordered a TG tube rear bumper yesterday afternoon. This bumper does NOT check all the boxes I have in my mind, but will certainly make installing the 4-Cam engineering cabin vent system that's been sitting around a breeze and gain a bunch of departure angle in a hurry. I was putting off installing that vent because i'm pretty sure I'd need to pull half the factory bumper to do so. Also, the cost of a bare steel, no tire-carrier plate bumper is AT LEAST $600 more, shipped, and with those dreaded 'lead times'. I am currently 24+ weeks into a BF order for a front bumper from TNF!!
The reason I am bothering to post this is that this bumper arrived the NEXT F@$#*%G DAY. Today. Not only that, the order was placed with an out of state reseller (LC Engineering - a bit better price that Trail Gear) and it was drop shipped from TG. I was in no hurry to get it but along comes a text from UPS that the bumper was on a truck a few blocks away. That's all - just wanted to share the space-time anomaly. It lives in my coworker's vacant cubicle.
The reason I am bothering to post this is that this bumper arrived the NEXT F@$#*%G DAY. Today. Not only that, the order was placed with an out of state reseller (LC Engineering - a bit better price that Trail Gear) and it was drop shipped from TG. I was in no hurry to get it but along comes a text from UPS that the bumper was on a truck a few blocks away. That's all - just wanted to share the space-time anomaly. It lives in my coworker's vacant cubicle.
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