What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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I'm interested in your thoughts without the rear sway bar. I took mine off when I bought it in 2012 and am thinking about putting one back on.
Will do, mine was tweaked, arms not parallel, but I was able to source a replacement

These things are so flimsy I can flex ir by hand, not sure if it makes a helluva difference on a 5K# truck, especially after a body lift

I'll wheel it soon and see if there is any merit to adding it back

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Replaced ucas with jba offroad, new bilstein struts (5100) to go with my ome coils. New inner and outer tie rod ends and swaybar end links. And replaced all abs wheel sensors.
 
Fun times in the mountains this weekend. The 1st gen got the job of towing the tractor up the rutted out trail to the top lot since it has 4.7 tcase gears


Did some truck camping up at the lot

I also got the try out my Visual Autowerks rear window vent. It worked well as a bug-free vent but I'm a little underwhelmed with it overall. The plastic edges were sharp and had to be deburred. I added some felt tape to prevent it from scratching up my back window. The edges don't really fit the opening 100%. Ho hum!
I wish they would come with a rain guard for their vents. I would use them during the summer, but I don't want to install permanent rain guards.
 
I swapped out my OME 60027 rear shocks for a set of Bilstein 5100's, Part # 24-100144, which has a 22.4" Extended length and a 13.86" compressed length. 1" longer than the 60027's.

Wow, what a difference in ride quality. So much more compliant. I can actually feel the softer, initial rate coils of the 891s now. The 60027's were SLOW to rebound, like the rebound time can be measured in minutes... I had these paired with 3 sets of springs over their lifetime and they were best with a set of Downey Off-road (RIP) 3" rear liner rate coils. That was actually a great setup. I wish Downey was still around. Before that, the OME shocks were used with a set of NWOR Progressive 3" springs and then recently with a new set of 891's. The 5100's are harder to compress by hand, but they rebound a lot quicker and the OME's are easier to compress, but rebound much more slowly. I can tell the 5100's will be much more capable off-road and the rear end will flex a lot better. I've had these sitting in a box for quite a while. I wish I would have installed them sooner...

I took it for an extended test drive over varied surfaces and while on it, I hit 223,000 today. So, I also did that.

EDIT: I also cleaned the AFE dry airbox filter. Lots of dust in from the anniversary weekend trip through the forest.
 
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Took off my SR5 skinny flares to paint 'em. It's been 6 years and they are ready for another coat or two of Rustoleum trim & bumper paint.

I can't decide if the truck looks good without flares or kind of, uh.... nekkid?

xUIckzU.jpg


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Took off my SR5 skinny flares to paint 'em. It's been 6 years and they are ready for another coat or two of Rustoleum trim & bumper paint.

I can't decide if the truck looks good without flares or kind of, uh.... nekkid?

xUIckzU.jpg


lksxxbb.jpg
I like them both with and without the flares. Can't go wrong either way.

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Took off my SR5 skinny flares to paint 'em. It's been 6 years and they are ready for another coat or two of Rustoleum trim & bumper paint.

I can't decide if the truck looks good without flares or kind of, uh.... nekkid?

xUIckzU.jpg


lksxxbb.jpg
I'm about to do the same to add the taco liner trim to the flares, PN 75696-35020 (pad, body outside)

I prefer the with SR5 flares look. My truck came with the even smaller flares, the rubber strip with chrome insert, and looked better without those 100%. I bought SR5 flares off eBay since I rarely see them for sale or in junkyards.

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I'm about to do the same to add the taco liner trim to the flares, PN 75696-35020 (pad, body outside)

I prefer the with SR5 flares look. My truck came with the even smaller flares, the rubber strip with chrome insert, and looked better without those 100%. I bought SR5 flares off eBay since I rarely see them for sale or in junkyards.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

I agree with you. FWIW when I repainted them it took four cans of spray paint!
 
I replaced mine around 270k as preventative maintenance also. Afterwards I noticed it ran a couple degrees cooler so it's a good thing to replace preventatively in my opinion.


Do you by chance have part numbers? I’m at 228k and need to replace my canister, filler neck, and evap hoses and I can’t seem to find barely any info on the hoses. I’m just trying to find the inner diameter at a minimum lol


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New 4Runner

Wasn’t today, but I just picked up a 97 4Runner Limited 4x4. Engine is blown, leather seats are shot, but everything else works. With some TLC I really think I can bring the paint back, and except for the seats the interior just needs a good cleaning. Picked it up for $750, a steal in my opinion.

I already have everything I need to fix it from another wrecked 4Runner, so should be a fun project. I tried to post my own thread with the full story of how this landed in my lap, but I don’t have enough posts start a project/build thread. I signed up in 2016, but was mostly a lurker. So while I get my post count up I’ll post progress updates here.
 
Installed Spiker phone mount. The magnet that's included with the mount isn't quite strong enough to hold an iPhone 12 with case and MagSafe wallet (total weight = 8.845 oz) but there's an easy fix: surround the included magnet with neodymium kitchen magnets and you should be good to go.

Note: The MagSafe wallet is what makes all the difference when it comes to getting enough magnetic force. Without the MagSafe accessory, there's not enough force to hold just the phone in its leather case, even with the extra magnets.
 

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Installed Spiker phone mount. The magnet that's included with the mount isn't quite strong enough to hold an iPhone 12 with case and MagSafe wallet (total weight = 8.845 oz) but there's an easy fix: surround the included magnet with neodymium kitchen magnets and you should be good to go.

Note: The MagSafe wallet is what makes all the difference when it comes to getting enough magnetic force. Without the MagSafe accessory, there's not enough force to hold just the phone in its leather case, even with the extra magnets.

That's a clever solution :thumb:.

It's nearly impossible to find a one-size-fits all magnet for the large variety of phone sizes and protective cases that's out there. If I supply a magnet strong enough to hold a large phone with the metal pad inside the case, then someone with a smaller phone with no protective case will have a really hard time pulling the phone off the magnet. And vice versa, as you are finding out.

Another option for a situation like yours is to use a rare earth magnet with a hole in the center, which can be easily attached to our phone mount. Like this one - LOVIMAG 60 lbs Holding Force Neodymium Cup Magnets, Industrial Strength Round Base Rare Earth Magnets with Heavy Duty Countersunk Hole and Stainless Screws for Tool Room,Workplace etc, Pack of 12: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Just be aware that this one is rated for 60 lbs, likely a huge overkill - you might need to add some plastic shims to reduce the magnetic force.
 
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