96RedRunner
Senior Member
That was 4 yr ago, vehicle Ins payout plus injury & pain suffering from 1" 6 stitch cut on my head I'd do it again.
They had really good Ins I had the build receipts.
Miss 96Red nah a little had it for 18 yr 300k mi.
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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That was 4 yr ago, vehicle Ins payout plus injury & pain suffering from 1" 6 stitch cut on my head I'd do it again.
They had really good Ins I had the build receipts.
Miss 96Red nah a little had it for 18 yr 300k mi.
Yesterday I swapped a set of OME 891's + 10mm trim packers + stock isolators (no center cone) for a set of used LC 7.5 wrap coils. I used a stock isolator on the driver's side and nothing on the passenger side. Gained about 1" of lift over the previous setup and a comfier ride. I have OME 60028 (Firm) shocks installed currently. I have a set of Bilstein 5100 24-100144 shocks that I will try out at some point. These are the 13.89"-22.4" shocks that have the soft valving. They were a poor match for the 891s and gave a pogo-y ride. I have a road/snow trip coming up after Turkey Day. I will be carrying some weight, so I want to see how this setup handles that before swapping in the 5100s.
I bought a replacement turn signal/headlight switch, but it didn't fit. It was listed as the correct item. Returning it. Ordered a different one from Napa that looks correct in the picture.
I bought a replacement turn signal/headlight switch, but it didn't fit. It was listed as the correct item. Returning it. Ordered a different one from Napa that looks correct in the picture.
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Did Gold Mountain on Sunday. Made everything except the first gatekeeper.
Got 2/3 through and one of the rigs blew their diff and then trashed a CV trying to retreat. Turns out he tweaked the passenger extension on the front diff, so a replacement CV didn't help. Spent the rest of the day/evening doing what we could.
I separated a birfield joint on the trail, intentionally so we could keep his front wheel bearing together. That was fun.
Did this to my rig
Ordered a rear axle bash plate from Opt Off Road
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Got 2/3 through and one of the rigs blew their diff and then trashed a CV trying to retreat. Turns out he tweaked the passenger extension on the front diff, so a replacement CV didn't help. Spent the rest of the day/evening doing what we could.
I separated a birfield joint on the trail, intentionally so we could keep his front wheel bearing together. That was fun.
Did this to my rig
Ordered a rear axle bash plate from Opt Off Road
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
blew their front or rear diff?
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Blew the rear diff trying to pop it up a ledge too hard
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Gonna need some more explanation for this, I'm interested (although not something I would ever think of doing, love my rear window).
Also you don't happen to live in Grandby do you? Reminds me a wee bit of a certain incident that happened there a while back lol.
Don't lash out at others when life doesn't happen the way "I" think it should and do not c the 4runner as vehicle that can handle the weight a bulldozer can to weld armor plates thick enough that u would require military weapons to pierces.... 20ga sheet metal doesn't work as well as 1" plate.
Reinout
Member
We're going to need some context here. Maybe a story or..... anything at all to explain what's going on. We can see what it looks like of course. More pictures? On it's own that doesn't look very structurally sound.
toyota8666
New member
not sure how he is lashing out at someone.. its more so just curiosity as to what you are doing and why lol
something got last in translation.... pretty sure he knows I wasn't talking about his post at all, look up the town and u'll understand who both of us (his and my reference) and u c what we r both talking about....
and I was saying "I don't lash out at people" like the guy in the town did
Michael0789
New member
does yesterday count? I finished the wheel swap on the 99 runner to accommodate tundra front brakes. found some tundra 17 inch wheels and put duratrac 265 65 17s on them to replace the 265 70 16s. I wanted to keep the same tire diameter and keep the no-contact lock to lock steering. The slight increase in wheel diameter, maybe due to the difference in wear, set the speedo closer to the gps, reading about 2mph over reality.
I did the mud shield mods and used power stop rotors and pads with cordone calipers, new vs refurb to avoid the core return stuff. Yup FOREIGN made stuff on a foreign built truck. :wacko: I know.
the ongoing maint before the Winter Road Trip includes xmsn fluid, engine oil change, and propeller shaft greases.
Happy Thanks Giving and Merry Christmas
regards, Michael
†
I did the mud shield mods and used power stop rotors and pads with cordone calipers, new vs refurb to avoid the core return stuff. Yup FOREIGN made stuff on a foreign built truck. :wacko: I know.
the ongoing maint before the Winter Road Trip includes xmsn fluid, engine oil change, and propeller shaft greases.
Happy Thanks Giving and Merry Christmas
regards, Michael
†
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Lol I know I know. Still reminded me of killdozer though, I think mostly that porthole thing on the rear. I still want to see more pictures of this and an explanation though.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
You might have been able to fit 70s in there. I've got a 98 with 4th gen 4runner 17s (don't know if they have the same offset as the Tundra ones you used) and run 265/70r17s with no rubbing.
Michael0789
New member
Thanks for the info. I used the 65s to keep the speedo on my side, and to hopefully get the same mpg as the 70s on 16 inch rims.
The speedometer reads a couple miles over the gps, which favors me. The tire guy said the 70s could be a couple percent favoring the highway patrol.
won't know until after i have the december trip in the log, what the net result actually is.
thanks for the observation i appreciate input.
M
The speedometer reads a couple miles over the gps, which favors me. The tire guy said the 70s could be a couple percent favoring the highway patrol.
won't know until after i have the december trip in the log, what the net result actually is.
thanks for the observation i appreciate input.
M
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Thanks for the info. I used the 65s to keep the speedo on my side, and to hopefully get the same mpg as the 70s on 16 inch rims.
The speedometer reads a couple miles over the gps, which favors me. The tire guy said the 70s could be a couple percent favoring the highway patrol.
won't know until after i have the december trip in the log, what the net result actually is.
thanks for the observation i appreciate input.
M
Yeah my 265/70r17s are dead on what GPS reads me at.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Learned how to solder today, was quite the effort. My job today was to clean up the shoddy wiring job on the ditch lights that came with my 98. They were some blade style disconnect wire connectors that I assume came with the budget kit when one of the previous owners installed them and they were held together with some electrical tape. When I first got the truck I noticed one of them wasn't firing up and after fiddling with the wire found that it just was intermittently shorting and vowed to eventually clean up the job with solder and heat shrink.
First I bought a bunch of stuff between HF and Microcenter based off a youtube video, solder, flux, solder gun, heat shrink pack, wire strippers dielectric grease and a helping hand. Had to wait in a long line at Microcenter with the black Friday sale. First order of business was to solder on some extension wires since the person who did this job previously left basically no slack and it was going to be a nightmare trying to deal with that under the hood while learning to solder. To do this I took the lights off and worked on a makeshift table (yes I know I was technically soldering a flammable costco tote which is not advisable). Had a bear of a time trying to get the solder to flow into the joint based off the instructions I was finding (later found out exactly why, I'll get to that). Anyways 15 minutes into frustration the cheap solder gun that I got goes pop sends out sparks and trips the breaker in my garage. Go back up to Microcenter, decide I'm going to try an iron instead of a gun (ended up being the same price but much better quality) and wait in another 20 minute line to handle the exchange. Cashier put "Literally exploded" in the notes for the exchange which I had a good laugh at.
Get home and get set back up, this time with a beer to help with patience. First solder joint looked pretty bad but it was good and solid, totally forgot to put the dielectric grease on it but it was a negative connection so I decided to say screw it, heat gun I already had does a pretty good job of sealing anyway. Second connection looked quite a bit better. Heat shrink everything for the first light. Second light goes even better, connections are nice and solid and pretty.
Get everything situated to solder up under the hood. First light goes great, second light I mess up one of the connections and pull it a bit with a lot of solder already on it causing a joint too big for my heat shrink to fit over. Cut it out and restrip it and get a nice clean connection and get it all heatshrinked. Moment of truth comes to fire the lights back up and they work HUZZAH!
Took most of the afternoon/evening to do this job but I got it done and man does it look clean. Was the perfect job to learn soldering on. The one thing I learned while doing this that none of the youtube videos covered was how to get the solder flowing well. Most of the stuff I looked up said to put the soldering tip under the wire and your solder on top and the solder will eventually start flowing. That was total bullcrap, at least with the 14 gauge wires I was working with. Turns out heat conducts better through solder itself rather than just a bunch of independent strands of wire with barely any physical touching to conduct heat (yay thermodynamics). Once I figured out to hit the tip directly on the solder to get it started and move progressively away while still connected to the molten solder already on the wire it started going rather quick. Also learned the hard way on the soldering gun before it blew up to TIN YOUR TIP right off the bat with a new tip. Makes things so much more painless if get your tip started right.
Now I feel much more confident about tackling other wiring jobs on my truck in the future (I want to get some ditch lights that come on when I reverse but only when I have a switch flipped, want to do a backup camera, want to permanently mount my viair in the rear quarterpanel with a pressure selenoid, etc).
First I bought a bunch of stuff between HF and Microcenter based off a youtube video, solder, flux, solder gun, heat shrink pack, wire strippers dielectric grease and a helping hand. Had to wait in a long line at Microcenter with the black Friday sale. First order of business was to solder on some extension wires since the person who did this job previously left basically no slack and it was going to be a nightmare trying to deal with that under the hood while learning to solder. To do this I took the lights off and worked on a makeshift table (yes I know I was technically soldering a flammable costco tote which is not advisable). Had a bear of a time trying to get the solder to flow into the joint based off the instructions I was finding (later found out exactly why, I'll get to that). Anyways 15 minutes into frustration the cheap solder gun that I got goes pop sends out sparks and trips the breaker in my garage. Go back up to Microcenter, decide I'm going to try an iron instead of a gun (ended up being the same price but much better quality) and wait in another 20 minute line to handle the exchange. Cashier put "Literally exploded" in the notes for the exchange which I had a good laugh at.
Get home and get set back up, this time with a beer to help with patience. First solder joint looked pretty bad but it was good and solid, totally forgot to put the dielectric grease on it but it was a negative connection so I decided to say screw it, heat gun I already had does a pretty good job of sealing anyway. Second connection looked quite a bit better. Heat shrink everything for the first light. Second light goes even better, connections are nice and solid and pretty.
Get everything situated to solder up under the hood. First light goes great, second light I mess up one of the connections and pull it a bit with a lot of solder already on it causing a joint too big for my heat shrink to fit over. Cut it out and restrip it and get a nice clean connection and get it all heatshrinked. Moment of truth comes to fire the lights back up and they work HUZZAH!
Took most of the afternoon/evening to do this job but I got it done and man does it look clean. Was the perfect job to learn soldering on. The one thing I learned while doing this that none of the youtube videos covered was how to get the solder flowing well. Most of the stuff I looked up said to put the soldering tip under the wire and your solder on top and the solder will eventually start flowing. That was total bullcrap, at least with the 14 gauge wires I was working with. Turns out heat conducts better through solder itself rather than just a bunch of independent strands of wire with barely any physical touching to conduct heat (yay thermodynamics). Once I figured out to hit the tip directly on the solder to get it started and move progressively away while still connected to the molten solder already on the wire it started going rather quick. Also learned the hard way on the soldering gun before it blew up to TIN YOUR TIP right off the bat with a new tip. Makes things so much more painless if get your tip started right.
Now I feel much more confident about tackling other wiring jobs on my truck in the future (I want to get some ditch lights that come on when I reverse but only when I have a switch flipped, want to do a backup camera, want to permanently mount my viair in the rear quarterpanel with a pressure selenoid, etc).
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