Rushthezeppelin
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Ahhh, so what's total capacity now then?
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Ahhh, so what's total capacity now then?
Rushthezeppelin
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Replaced my PCV valve today along with the grommet. Going to have to order the hose at some point too, it was a little cracked but not that bad so I reused it for now. Also took the time to clean off some of what looked some of the fresher oil leaks to see if they are still actively leaking. Valve covers, spark tubes and driver side of my pan definitely have leaked at some point with pan being the freshest looking stuff. I've never noticed any drop on the dipstick so clearly nothing too bad. Going to have to take things apart and give a really good cleaning, probably going to replace hoses at the same time. Kind of thinking the pan might not be a bad idea to do anyway at some point as I can get a good look at the lower end at that point and see how that's holding up after 280k. Also wonder if I will be able to see up into some of the bores if I do that.
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Have to c when I fill up to get the exact # but roughly 35gals. Front tank is 100% above the frame rails and rear would also b on an OEM frame but the redesign has the rear frame by the tank higher so there's a little hanging below, point being is they r not massive tanks just better weight distribution/center of gravity.
Its a lot more work but u can go with shim-less buckets and shave around 1lb off, plus u can get the buckets out of a # of vehicles in the salvage yard, but like said it would be a lot more work and time...
JBurt
Senior Member
That's really cool. I didn't know those existed. It seems that they're cheaper than just the shims from most places.
I think I'll just install the shims I ordered though. I think the best way to do shimless buckets would be to combine that with a timing belt job, then removed the intake cams as well.
I think I'll just install the shims I ordered though. I think the best way to do shimless buckets would be to combine that with a timing belt job, then removed the intake cams as well.
Devbot
New member
Developed a new, very loud ticking noise out of nowhere, probably the 4th or 5th new noise I've had pop up since January without warning... So I started browsing the market to price her out and sell it if it keeps up at this rate. Can't keep dealing with this every 2-3 weeks; over the past few years it feels like the only times I put a wrench down is to sleep :ranger:
Edit: aaaand just found out my Smittybilt control box has completely broken off it's mount. Just my luck. (FYI, avoid the XRC Gen 3. All the threads are made of the worst quality chinesium ever conceived)
Edit: aaaand just found out my Smittybilt control box has completely broken off it's mount. Just my luck. (FYI, avoid the XRC Gen 3. All the threads are made of the worst quality chinesium ever conceived)
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96 ToyRunner
Member
Installed my srq fab sway bar links front and rear at 373,164
cl4Rk
Member
Back to the leaking passenger side leg on the new front locker diff - untouched non-ADD leg taken off a high miles junkyard Tacoma. I'd thought the CV shaft wasn't seated fully, but it didn't seat any more when I tried. And I also noticed it wiggling up and down a little more than it should, so I got a new bearing and a new seal. I took the whole leg off for better access, a very good idea. The old bearing seemed pretty nice when removed, but the seal was a bit tired. Alternately froze/heated components and the bearing was an easy install. I seated the CV shaft properly while both were out and access was better (just stood them up and gently dropped the bottom diff leg onto a board, *pop* the CH shaft seated). And put it back in. I guess the bearing was somewhat worn, because it feels more solid now.
So on to the unrelated, but poorly timed alternator failure. Still waiting for an alternator rebuild kit to arrive. I drove it to work yesterday, after noting that 'percussive maintenance' (i.e. tapping it with a wrench) got it to start working again. Just one light tap, it's good to go.
Well, it kept going on and off all the way to work and back, about 50/50. Enough to make it to and from work, but not really drivable. Just waiting on that rebuild kit...
On the plus side, no oil leaking out of the passenger side CV area this time. In retrospect, probably could have just put a new seal on it.
So on to the unrelated, but poorly timed alternator failure. Still waiting for an alternator rebuild kit to arrive. I drove it to work yesterday, after noting that 'percussive maintenance' (i.e. tapping it with a wrench) got it to start working again. Just one light tap, it's good to go.
Well, it kept going on and off all the way to work and back, about 50/50. Enough to make it to and from work, but not really drivable. Just waiting on that rebuild kit...
On the plus side, no oil leaking out of the passenger side CV area this time. In retrospect, probably could have just put a new seal on it.
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Spiker Engineering
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Got a new friend for my 3rd Gen. Gotta love the license plate, sometimes DMV comes through in a good way.
Devbot
New member
Got a new friend for my 3rd Gen. Gotta love the license plate, sometimes DMV comes through in a good way.
Man, what are the odds of that
Got a new friend for my 3rd Gen. Gotta love the license plate, sometimes DMV comes through in a good way.
Beautiful color and condition! Envious!
Well my radiator is cracked and my AC compressor is fried... Went ahead and ordered a new oem radiator and hoses, AC compressor and pulley, timing belt kit, and an SRQ TRD grille for good measure.
Good thing I picked up a 2023 Tacoma this past week to get me to work! :roll:
Good thing I picked up a 2023 Tacoma this past week to get me to work! :roll:
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Replaced my alternator this morning. Was a pretty simple job besides that stupid wiring harness being a bear. Ended up finding I could get a small pry bar on one of the tabs on the side though and it came off. Found out I could make a press for the bushing using a 17mm and an 18mm stacked and using the tensioner. Made getting the new one in easy peasy. Only thing that's frustrating me is I was trying to get that bottom tensioner nut to 25ftlbs spec and it didn't seem like it wanted to bottom out and tighten anymore than probably 20ftlbs. Does that nut just take a few turns to fully bottom?
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Lol it's just some cheap google feature bokeh editing tool. It really did come out well but if you look at the photo blown up it's not perfect.
Anyway turns out my fear about that tensioner nut was founded. Damn thing must have been partially stripped by a PO and when I tried to torque it to spec it buggered it the rest of the way. Oddly enough there's still some clean thread still sticking out that it never engaged. Got a friend coming over soon with a tap and die set and I'm going to try and clean up what I can on the bolt side. Got a new m8-1.25 from Lowes and I'm going to try and run it on just enough with some blue loctite as a temp fix until I can get the part in. Dealership down the road I barely made it to before they closed and they would have to order the part, which usually means any other dealership (including my preferred that has one of the cheapest online prices period) would have to do the same. Hopefully the temp fix will do fine until I can do the permanent thing.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
[MENTION=720569]Rushthezeppelin[/MENTION], chase threads with die add couple flat washers.
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